Ford - Explorer :: Transmission Is Slipping / SES Light On - Multiple Codes
Sep 24, 2011
Any way, they come to me and tell me the tranny is slipping. I immediately notice the SES light on. I decided to check codes to see if I have any errors coming from the tranny. So far I have these codes: P0455 P1151 P0304 P0174
I dont know this vehicle at all and wanted to see if some of these items are common and/or possibly related to each other.
Heres what I have found:
P0455 - EVAP leak somewhere. Seems a lot of people have discovered a crack in the filler neck.
P1151 - Passenger O2 LEAN
P0304 - Cyl 4 misfire
P0174 - Passenger lean condition "A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time."
Looks like I need to clean the MAF, check vacuum leaks, possibly replace passenger O2. Ive also read some of these codes come from a common issue with the intake gasket. May need to replace it? How should I clean the MAF? Can I use some normal solvents?
I need to mention a tick/tap on pass side under cold idle (consistent, but not constant). Still need to test to see if it happens at other times. Right now has Seafoam in the oil and about to run it and then change the oil. Also, have ran it though the brake booster. Currently in the sit and wait process, about to go out and make the neighborhood smoke like Hiroshima.
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I have 2007 explorer 4.0 4x4. Check engine light and wrench symbol on with codes po743 po750 po755 po po765 po966 po966 po970. Feels like it is now stuck in 3rd gear.
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I have a 2005 Ford Taurus. We had an $1800 rebuilt transmission put in 8 months ago and it's already giving us problems! The engine light has also been on. We took it to autozone and multiple codes came up. We've already put way too much money into this piece of shit and I don't want to get screwed by another mechanic! Where do we go from here? Is there anything we can fix ourselves? The codes are p0300, p0301, p0305, p0316....
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Tranny started acting funny recently...shifting hard into reverse at first, then last night it was like it was stuck in high gear or slipping on the way home. Limped it home and took the following codes:
P0743 TORQUE CONVERTER CIRCUIT ELECTRICAL
P0750 SHIFT SOLENOID A MALFUNCTION
P0755 SHIFT SOLENOID B MALFUNCTION
P0760 SHIFT SOLENOID C MALFUNCTION
P0765 SHIFT SOLENOID D MALFUNCTION
P0962 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID A CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0966 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID B CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0970 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID C CONTROL CIRCTUT LOW
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2003 Explorer with a slipping transmission...codes are P0731, P0732, P0733... Just had a new solenoid pack installed last week when O/D light came on and truck was clunking into reverse. Now, after new pack was installed the forward gears are slipping all over the place!
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Like the title says. 04 Explorer.
No transmission issues ever. Immediately after doing an oil change myself for first time, get some transmission dropouts, slipping out of gear at stop lights, waiting way too long to go into 2nd, etc.
Then, started getting OD off light, and service engine. Error codes show something about wrong setting for 2nd, 5th, solenoid error... a bunch of 'em.
Anyway, guy at parts store says I must have knocked a wire loose causing misreads between cpu and transmission. It's a real pain getting under there since I'm using jack stands, so exactly what I should be looking for or at least the exact name of a connector or something so I can look it up.
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I have a problem with my transmission slipping. It seems to happen most often when I have shifted from park into drive and am going uphill. I don't really notice a problem with it when I am on flats or even at red lights. It can drift backwards for 10-15 feet before "catching."
I don't feel any problem when I am going faster or in higher gears. 1999 Ford Explorer SOHC 6 Cyl 4.0...
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I have a 2005 Cavalier (60,000 miles) that's been having some transmission slipping in the cold weather. As the weather has warmed up, the issue has lessened but not quite gone away. We added a little transmission fluid, but I haven't yet had a chance to replace the fluid/filter. The check engine light has been on in my car since I've owned it... the shop I bought it from replaced the solenoid, but the code still hung around. Everything I've googled tells me that the issue could be the wiring or could be the solenoid needing replacing. My real question is... how soon do I need to act on this? p0741 p2761
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The vehicle is a 2004 Jetta MK4 1.8t.
Last thing I had replaced about 2 months ago was the Solenoid valve, the MAF and Solenoid hose. Car ran fine for about a month, and bam...engine light came back on, along with the ASR light. At first it was saying "cat converter" so I researched that, and what a surprise, it spoke about being a $1k piece to replace. NOTHING HAS BEEN CHEAP ON THIS CAR, and I'm losing my mind.
The latest adventure happened today coming back from the gym. Car started jerking (which has been normal since every now and then the ASR light will come on, which I'm told is the traction control light. Causing the car to jerk. Simple fix is pulling over, shutting the car off, and turning it back on. That always clears it, and then I'm back on the road.) but instantly it lost power. It wont shift, but the traction control light didn't come on. I plugged my OBD2 tool up, and came back with these fault codes:
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0753: Shift Solenoid "A" Electrical
P2637: Torque Management Feedback Signal A
I'm going to go to these guys tomorrow, but I would just like to get an educated guess on what might be going on, so I don't look like a lost dog while they're figuring out what to do next. These guys seem knowledgeable, but they're missing something since I've been in and out of their shop several times and still getting my traction control light on at random times, and now all 3 of these codes.
Does that Solenoid code have anything to do with the Solenoid valve they put in? I was told that cleaning the throttle body and the cat converter might work. Would those be cheaper options to consider, and see if that works?
I also read that unplugging the alternator and plugging it back in, then cleaning the male and female with electrical cleaner might work. I was told about a month ago that my battery barely passed. Could this be causing any of my issues? I also did a log while I was driving, but all that's showing up is a google map document.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna that has had a check engine light for a while. The light would come at times, and go away at others, with prolonged intervals (days, weeks, months) with or without the light.
Suddenly it started losing power, especially on hills (even a small hill). The codes I read are (I include code interpretations from internet search):
P0300: Random or multiple misfire.
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire.
P0304: Cylinder 4 misfire.
P1130: Air fuel sensor
P1150: I have not found a problem definition for this code.
Might these codes be indicative of a particular problem, or is each problem more likely a problem with its own cause?
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I have an 03 Explorer 4.6L that is running bad. The code was P2196, I changed B1S1 O2 sensor and cleared code. A few minutes later the SES light was on, I checked codes and now I have P2196 (again) and P0405. Why I was only getting the O2 code and now I have it again after replacing it and a new code (0405 EGR)..
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How do I get abs light to go off? I removed and cleaned all sensors, checked all wiring, fuses, and diode. I also used a a scanner, and it tells me there are no error codes. What do i do now?
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My 1998 Explorer with 120,000 mile on it. The check light just came on. I have had several auto part stores plug in the scan tool and there were no error codes. I'm looking for the reset button location. I am also wondering should there be something missed by the scan tools, will the light activate should there be a real problem.
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I have a 2005 explorer, eddie bauer (120k), which i really love driving. Recently, i have lights coming on in my dash: ABS, traction control and the 4wd light intermittently flashing. I went to Advance auto parts and they were able to read the codes, a B1155 - speed wheel sensor LF input circuit failure and a B1145 - speed wheel sensor RF input circuit failure. I have replaced both wheel bearing hubs (with the speed sensors) about 6 monthe ago. the connectors leading to the speed sensors are both showing 12v at the plug. Is the problem both my sensors have gone bad? Is there any way to test these sensors. I need to get this fixed quickly since i am due for an emission test very soon and it will not pass if any dash lights are on.
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I have a 2005 F-150 W/ 5.4 triton, and am having multiple codes. They are:
P0172- System to rich(Bank 1),
P0174- System to lean(Bank 2),
P0300- Random misfire,
P0303- Cylinder # 3 misfire detected,
P0304- Cylinder #4 msfire detected.
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I have a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 5.0, the check engine light is on and my code reader gives P0161 and P0155 both stating that the O2 heater circuit sensor is bad. I replaced all 4 of the O2 sensors in the truck, cleared the codes but they still keep coming back. I have tried for a few days now to find something online similar to this but have had no luck. I am not sure what else to do.
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While driving around with the 8 speed is350, It seems like the transmission is slipping when changing from 3-4-5 under light throttle. The revs shoot up and then it finds the next gear kind of like someone riding the clutch in a manual car.
This used to happen a little during the winter on cold start but its happening more often even in warm weather. Maybe I'm just crazy but I'm sure its not supposed to be acting this way.
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I have a 2006 GMC Yukon XL and its transmission started slipping at just under 60K miles. My local repair shop (who I trust) suggested a transmission shop that they work with a lot. Since I tow a trailer with the vehicle it seems reasonable enough to go with their suggestion to rebuild the transmission using upgraded “heavy duty” components and install a transmission cooler, which I had them do. If you are interested in seeing what they installed, I have uploaded the repair tag at [URL] ....
Right after we got the car back we took the trailer on a trip and very soon the “Transmission Hot” warning light came on. I happened to be driving very close to the transmission shop at that time so I stopped by and they replaced the transmission fluid with synthetic fluid and said that would remedy the situation. However, very shortly after leaving the shop the warning light came on again. At the time I asked the owner of the shop if the heavy duty transmission might just run hotter than the original and he told me that it should not. Well, I brought it back in and he disassembled and reassembled the transmission and even moved the placement of the transmission cooler but, long story short, the transmission hot light still comes on.
Then he changed his tune told me that the heavy duty transmission should run hotter, contrary to what he told me originally. He went on to tell me that there was no way to adjust the temperature sensor that controls the warming light so he convinced me to install a supplemental temperature gauge for the transmission. He said that the sensor was set at the factory to trigger at 180 degrees and that the transmission was likely just running a few degrees over that. So, we made a deal that he would install the gauge and if the transmission temperature stayed below 190, which he said was a safe number, then I would pay for the gauge, but if the transmission ran over 190 degrees, he would cover the cost because that would indicate that there was probably something wrong with the transmission.
He did the work but now he has once again changed his tune and is telling me that it is no problem for the transmission temperature to run as high as 250, which is 60 degrees higher than what he told me originally. So, the question is,
1) should a heavy duty transmission with a cooler run at a higher temperature than standard transmission and
2) how hot is too hot for it to run?
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Apparently yesterday (no known reason) my sons truck started to develop a miss (so it feels like to me).
2005 f150 5.4 auto 215000km 4x4 stx. No specific cylinder codes. All general codes.
P1000
P1464
P1550
P1703
P1780
None of which I can see causing the miss. No check engine lite, no other codes. Not sure what to look at next. I am starting to disconnect the coil packs one at a time and see if I can pin down the cylinder.
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This is a Ford Escape XLT with the 3.0L V6. I get the following codes - P0316 P0300 P0136 P0305 P0306. Sometimes it runs just fine and sometimes it misses and bucks and jumps. It has been taken to a local shop and they said they found a loose ground at the computer. They said they corrected this and it should run fine. It still shows the same codes and runs like it did before they worked on it.
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I have a 99 Mountaineer AWD 5.0 (143K) and having some issues with it. O/D light is flashing once in awhile so decided to check the codes.
- P07401 (Torque converter)
- P1728 (Transmission slip)
The truck shift fine and no having really issues when driving even if there is a weird noise around 70mph.
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