Ford - Explorer :: Sudden Loss Of Oil Pressure / Engine Rattling / Check Gauges Light On
Jan 23, 2016
So, last December, I was sitting at a stop light, when my engine suddenly started rattling. "Check Gauges" light on, ZERO oil Pressure..
Took car to mechanic, he removed the valve covers, and scoped out the timing chains with a camera, and found everything intack, and no chips out of the timing guides (125K miles on the engine). no sludge, nothing.
Engine runs fine (for 5 seconds at a time) no issues. Removed Intake to check the Oil Pump Drive Gear, all is well.
Removed Oil Pan Inspection Plate, All is well. ZERO plastic chips in the oil pan from timing guides, ZERO sludge, all is clean.
Back up to top of engine, pull the Oil Pump Drive Shaft using needle nose pliers from the top of the engine. BUT!!!
Only the top 8 inches of the Oil Pump Drive Shaft comes out! The bottom gear is not present! Is it still in the oil pump?
OK, so I need a new oil pump drive shaft. no Problem.. BUT: how do I get the broken oil shaft out of the engine before I put a new one in? Use a magnet? Rubber hose?
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Ok here's the problem. I have a 2003 grand prix se 3.1 and a 1998 grand prix gtp series II sc. Both have the exact same problem running and both had overheating issues prior to. I can start either one on a given day while cold and drive them as if nothing is wrong. But soon as either one hits operating temp, I start to hear what sounds like a rattling or sputtering like sound from under the hood, accompanied with a sudden loss of power and then the engine shuts off. Now yesterday I attempted further diagnostics with the se model GP. I let it idle rather than driving it this time, and it ran perfectly fine for about 20 mins, started to make the aforementioned noise, I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm and it kept it from cutting off and smoothed, but the second I let up, it was off and wouldn't restart till it was cooled off. Same goes for the gtp. I'm really stumped on this one.
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My 2004 ford explorer 4.0 has this issue where the check gauges will come on for 2-3 sec, then the temp gauge will go from normal and peg to hot and as soon as it pegs it drops right back down to normal. I have had the thermostat replaced and have flushed the radiator. I am at a loss here....
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The check gauges light on my 1988 Cheyenne 4x4 is coming on and the oil pressure gauge is erratic back and forth from low to high pressure.
The vehicle is a 4.3L manual. Any likely cause or where to start with troubleshooting?
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I have passat 2007 2.0T , about 98000km. A few months ago, my vehicle randomly has hiccup with EPC light when I put on the pedal. Each times i put on the pedal my vehicle hiccups and EPC light on and all goes away when i put off my foot from the pedal. It happened randomly, so i went to vw dealership twice. They keep saying they could not find any problem. Coz as i said it happens randomly. I paid diagnostic fee but still the problem remains.
Unfortunately today i had the same issue hiccup like crazy with epc and engine lights. Also on the highway my baby 2 years old was with me when i drove, my vehicle lost power all the sudden, all most i involved an accident with following vehicle. I started the engine, vehicle moves but with the problem. I feel wheels do not spin properly or transmission randomly. What the problem is?
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2003 Explorer Sport, 4.0 L, 84K miles. Car just fell out of extended warranty and has been serviced exclusively by the dealer.
While driving, I experienced a sudden bog down and inability to travel faster than 20 - 25 MPH. The more pedal you give, the less power. In neutral, free revs will not go above 3000 RPM at full pedal and will rise and fall between 2000 - 3000 RPM. The next day all is normal again. This happened twice now and I am not sure why. No CEL, no stored codes.
Plenty of pressure (felt by hand only) out the tail pipe except when fluctuating during free revs. There doesn't appear to be any vacuum leaks. What I can check to correct this? Could it be bad fuel or water in fuel?
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I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
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2000 Dakota, 4.7 V8 ... The 'CHECK GAUGES' light comes on intermittently. As soon as it comes on, the voltmeter gauge drops to zero (it is a brand new battery); the temperature gauge does flip flops; the truck dies right now. Walk home and come back later, and it starts up again. When you get home, you sure don't feel secure in taking it on the road again. The shop checked it and of course there was nothing wrong when they had it Where do I start the troubleshoot? Is it computer or?
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This week my check engine light came on and I could here a rattling noise. Took the car to ford service center and my paperwork says "E29 has torq converter code, trans rattling, recommend exchange trans." Nothing but problems on this ford freestyle, first a bunch of recall issues with the throttle body that had to be fixed twice, the enertia switch, and now this.
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Today I was driving to my moms house. I had been on the road for about 2.5 hours. My ABS light came on, I didn't think anything about just figured a sensor was dirty or bad. About 30 min later the radio shut off then all the gauges bottomed out and the truck lost all power. I was able to coast/idle off the road. I called a local parts place and they had a replacement alternator for me. While I was at it I also replaced the battery. I started the truck up and hit the road again. I drove another 45min with no issues.
Does this sound right or am I missing something else?
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I've got a '96 Sierra manual transmission with 215K that's been running fine. I just ran it 400 miles without a problem. Recently I downshifted into fourth to go up a hill and I had a sudden loss of power and a rough ride like I had a flat tire. The harder I press the gas the rougher the ride and it idles almost normally. The check engine light came on and blinks 12 times.
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2000 Ranger 2wd 3.0 ... I bought my truck last summer for $1k from my neighbor, it has hit a deer so the grill is busted,front drivers fender bent up and bumper is bent all to heck. The old girl is rock solid reliable though and gets decent mileage with cruise heat and ac so I'm happy.
Anyways on to the point, I am having two big issues with it, the check engine light randomly comes on and causes it lose power sometimes at others you don't notice it. I have not been able to get codes read because it goes off every single time I go to someplace with a scanner. The light will usually go off if you floor it for a long stretch maf maybe?
The other issue is the transmission, I don't know for sure which tranny it is but the overdrive button does not work at all even though the fuses are good and when I drive down the highway second gear you have to let off for it to shift sometimes ( I've been leaning towards the valve body gasket for that) and lately it has started a horrible vibration kicking out of overdrive or just downshifting on hills etc.?
I forgot to mention it has 255k miles on it and I don't know the history besides the balljoint I replaced this week and radiator when I bought it.
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I have a 2008 FX2 5.4L F150. Recently it began to lose power on a friend driving it out of town. He got a check engine light then it just progressively became unable to produce power. It ran but he got down to 10 mph before he could get to a firestone. I got it to a local Ford dealer and they say i need a new engine. They gave me codes for cam sensor and timing and #5 and #6 misfire. (344, 345)
No oil in radiator, no water in oil. The crazy thing is it runs like the day i bought it in Park. But once in gear it begins to cough and then eventually shudders and dies. I haven't changed plugs ever. I know... At about 75 miles it began to idle rough at times and in reverse. But once I revved up it went away.
I replaced both cam sensors but no luck. Today i put it on a tow truck to get a second opinion from a local engine shop. I actually backed it down my driveway, and pulled up to the tow truck with no issues. weird...
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I took delivery of my 2012 FX4 Eco in January and about a month or so later I began experiencing a loss of power and the check engine light would come on then go off again. This happened the first time in Houston traffic one day so I was pretty concerned needless to say but then it cleared itself shortly thereafter. However, heading back home it occurred again on the highway while I was trying to pass and she just didn't have the power. I took it to a Houston dealer late in the afternoon before I left but no codes were found and when I got it back to my local dealer it was determined the left side catalytic converter was bad and it was subsequently replaced. Well, it happened again and it's back in the shop while I am offshore so they have plenty of time to take care of it.
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My cat converter is rattling on driver's side and check engine light is on. Rattle is the inside of the converter, not the heat shield. How much $ and what kind of converter replacement is recommended?
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i have a continuous Check Engine light in my 2008 ford explorer. Dealer recommend replacing a sensor but I do not know which sensor to change.
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My 2007 Explorer (XLT, V6 4.0L, 4WD, 175k miles) has been experiencing a check engine light, intermittently, for the past few months. I took it to AutoZone to read the code and they gave me a printout for P0193. For awhile, the light would go off after I filled the tank with gas (usually the next day) and would come again as the level in the tank decreased (typically around 1/4 of a tank). Then about two months ago, the behavior seemed erratic and I could no longer predict when it would appear. During the past couple of weeks I only recall seeing the CEL once (briefly); it's mostly been off. Saturday night I was out driving and it came on again.
About two hours later, my vehicle "conked out" on me. It started hesitating (it's been a very long time since I've run out of gas, but that's what it reminded me of). Fortunately, there was no traffic and I was able to get it off the road but didn't have enough momentum to get it into a defined parking space before it quit. I sat there for awhile pondering my options (not too many since it was the middle of the night and I don't have road service). After about 10 mins or so, I decided to see if I could get it started. It did start and I was able to drive it home (< 10 miles). It's been sitting in the driveway since because I'm afraid of getting stranded if I drive it again. BTW, I was low on gas when it died -- about 50 miles to E (was headed to the gas station when it happened, but took it home instead).
After everything I've read the past few days, I'm expecting that I need to replace at least the fuel filter, the fuel rail pressure sensor and the intake gaskets for the manifold. I am not a mechanic, don't have diagnostic tools, my funds are really limited right now and I'm pretty much on my own to figure this out.
Q1: For those who may have some knowledge about this particular issue, does the intermittent nature of the CEL give any clues to which part(s) might be malfunctioning?
Q2: I found a replacement FRPS made by Bosch on Amazon, significantly cheaper -- is this brand ok or should i stick to Motorcraft?
Q3: Any advice on the manifold gasket replacements (is one brand better than another)?
Q4: Do I really need the special tool to replace the fuel filter?
The questions above are no longer relevant. I'm in the process of "locating" the sensor. I have the air hose and throttle body off. Now I'm looking at the EGR valve. It looks like I will have to disconnect the it from the large pipe beneath it. Will I also need to remove the two smaller bolts that mount it to the manifold cover, or can I remove the cover & valve together? It looks like those little buggers are going to be challenging since they are facing the back of the engine compartment. This is rather slow-going for me, but there's no turning back now.
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My 1998 Explorer with 120,000 mile on it. The check light just came on. I have had several auto part stores plug in the scan tool and there were no error codes. I'm looking for the reset button location. I am also wondering should there be something missed by the scan tools, will the light activate should there be a real problem.
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I have an 01 Explorer Sportrac with a 4.0, 105,000 milles. Got the check engine light with the EGR low flow code. I get this code about once a year and a new DPFE usually takes care of it. I get the sensor from Advanced Auto which explains the short life I am guessing. Last time i replaced the sensor the light came back on a couple weeks later.
After highway driving smoke starts pouring freon under the hood, passenger side, but by the time I get the hood opened its done. Cant tell where it is coming from. Could a faulty DPFE cause the smoke or do you think the EGR valve may be sticking? I was going to try a Ford DPFE this time but I hate to just throw parts at it. Where do the smoke is coming out of, air filter box????? cant see anything else over there related to the EGR system......
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2001 explorer sport, need to reset and clear check engine light I know the problem a small pinhole in exhaust that opens up and i fill it in How do i reset check engine light...
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I just had my '12 GTI's 40,000 mile service done about 2 weeks ago. I put in a K&N air filter the day after the service. The only thing I noticed about the car after service was that I could smell coolant, they either spilled some or its burping some cause it was filled past the max fill line. Outside of that everything was copacetic until yesterday morning.
On my way to the gym with cruise control on ~74 mph on the highway I had sudden power loss, EPC light came on and power returned although felt reduced. When I left the gym it was off and I made it about a mile when under acceleration it hit at about 3k rpm, again sudden power loss and EPC light, power returned reduced. Drove about 5 miles to work and did a little googling with a million results.
When I left work to go home I made it about ten minutes into my drive before it happened. This time the CEL came on. I was able to drive home and back to work again this morning but I keep having power shutters followed by the EPC. I haven't had much time to dig into anything but I checked the connection of the coils and the intake connections with a flashlight at 4:30 this morning. Thinking it might be the MAF only because I recently installed the K&N and have read the oil can kill MAF's and I might stop to get a can of cleaner on my way home to try that route.
IF that doesn't work maybe I can get it on a Vag Com in the next couple days to get it sorted out.
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