I have an 03 Explorer 4.6L that is running bad. The code was P2196, I changed B1S1 O2 sensor and cleared code. A few minutes later the SES light was on, I checked codes and now I have P2196 (again) and P0405. Why I was only getting the O2 code and now I have it again after replacing it and a new code (0405 EGR)..
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Explorer 4.6, about 2 weeks ago the CEL kicked on but I didn't notice any problem. Last week I stopped at a red light and felt it shacking a little, I took off everything seem ok. At the next light I felt it again and that time it started sputtering, I drove it for a few more days and it would sputter now and then as I was driving and every time when I would stop when it was in drive. I had the codes pulled and it came back with P2196 & P0405 (o2 & EGR).
I was going to buy a new 02 sensor & EGR but I was told that a bad EGR could be causing the o2 code also. I put the new EGR on yesterday and had the codes cleared. I test drove it for about 10 miles with no problems. Today while driving I felt it start doing it again and about 5 mins. later the CEL was back on. I got the codes and again its P2196 & P0405, Should I have changed the 02 sensor instead or what I should do next?
I've got an '03 Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC that I got for a deal on craigslist as it needed timing chain tensioners. I got that all done and it runs and drives relatively well, but it idles a little bit rough - especially when it's sitting in gear at a stop light. My go-to first attempt for idling issues is to squirt off the MAF sensor, throttle body, and squirt some starter fluid around the vacuum lines to check for vacuum leaks (though it's possible I may have missed a line or two). Neither seemed to work much. I cleared the codes, dumped some Sea Foam and fresh fuel in it and drove it around a little bit and it threw the CEL light, got about 10 mpg, and generally just didn't seem to have as much power as it should (though I have no experience with the 4.0 in a explorer, soI'm not counting that as a hard fact).
I pulled the codes and I've got a:
P2196 (O2 sensor stuck rich - bank 1 sensor 1)
(and)
P0174 (system too lean - bank 2)
That seems kinda weird to me. Bank 1 is rich and bank 2 is lean? That would make it idle and run weird, for sure, but I'm having a bit of a hard time figuring out what would cause that. I think my next step would be to check/replace the plugs, but that's more of a shot in the dark than a proper diagnosis.
I have a 06 f250 king ranch with 6.0 . A few days ago my scangauge showed a code P0405
I changed my egr and after it showed two codes : P0405 and P0404
It still has a hesitation and loss of power , although better than before the Change.
I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
I have a 2003 malibu with 170000 miles on it. My husband uses this car to commute to work (10 miles one way). We will be buying a newer car in a month or so but my husband really wants to keep this car as a third/back up car. I purchased an OBD 2 scanner and downloaded the torque app (I really enjoy working on cars and I wanted to have more info easily available to me). The codes that it is showing me are P0131 (o2 sensor) and P0405 (EGR?). How should I proceed? I know I need to replace the O2 (easy) but im not sure about the other code.The car has a rough idle, terrible gas mileage and seems to drive as though I have shifted it past Drive and into 1st (its an automatic).
View 9 RepliesHad my friends shop replace my passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2004 FX4. Two studs at the front broke flush and one other broke but was sticking out of the head. To get room they did the trick of unbolting the trans mount and the passenger side engine mount and moved the engine over. All is back together but started throwing the 53,132, 2195 and 2196 codes, engine seamed to run fine though. Before bringing it back in I decided to check for any simple things, vacuum leaks or connectors that might have been knocked loose. At first I thought this was a good candidate for a vacuum leak but it turned out to be a vent for the front hubs.
My next thought was that maybe the pass side upstream oxygen sensor got knocked during the work and was now shorting out. It is very tight on that passenger side! Truck has 102,000 miles so they were at the end of their lives. I decided to just replace all 4 with OEM units. I used one of the oxygen/mapp gas torches from the hardware store and a 7/8 in wrench. The drivers side was easy and I did not have to remove the drive-shaft like some write-ups discussed.
Although doing that would give plenty of room. Pass side downstream is fairly easy, upstream was a bit tougher. I took out the inner fender skirt and loosened the trans dipstick tube. That gave just enough room for my large hands to reach in and turn the connector so the sensor side of the plug faced out. I used a pick and fashioned a hook out of a coat hanger to pull the connector apart. That ended up being the hardest part. Putting a good amount of heat into the sensor bung quickly made all the difference in getting them out.
Here is what the upstream pass side sensor looked like. Could not see it from below or from the wheel well.
The codes are all gone now (were coming back after one drive before) so I think the sensor was the issue.
2008, 5.4 liter, F250, with 6-speed manual transmission
My truck was running fine until I decided to clean my engine. I just wanted to remove the extra dust covering it, so I used a low pressure garden hose to wash away the dirt that had accumulated last winter and spring.
It started throwing codes like Fuel Rail pressure sensors, P0191, P0192. I had no power, and I could hardly drive the truck.
I figured I had some water in some connectors, so I checked around, but could not detect any moisture.
I kept driving it, and the problem got less severe. One warm summer day, I drove my truck for about an hour trip, and everything looked fine after this. Problem never came back.
I was even noticing that it was better on gas that ever before, I was doing 11liters/100km, in city driving.
Until one day (2 months later), I had to disconnect the battery to do some servicing on my truck (more that 30 minutes), and it started to run crappy again, having some piston misfire, throwing codes P2198 and P2196, (O2 sensors). No power, if I am very gentle on the gas pedal, I can manage it, but as soon as i try to accelerate, runs like crap, black smoke coming out of the exhaust.
The problem comes and goes, sometimes, the problem stops, and I can get going, no issues. Air filter is clean, even tried with no air filter, no differences., but it really sounds like bad air/fuel mixture.
Have a 2006 ford escape, at idle the engine will run around 1000 rpm's and then regularly dip down 500 rpm's. Through the intake i can here a distinct "thwap" when the RPM's dip.
Only codes are
P0113 and P2196
Problems accelerating sometimes, Took it too a shop they said bad exhaust valve on the backside of the engine either 1-2-3. They said needed engine work, but said they didn't know where the bad valve was so i don't even know how the made the determination. Vac gauge at idle also indicates bad valve.
However, when i give it even the smallest amount of gas possible the engine smooths out and vac gauge reads totally normal and steady.
My Solara is running horribly. Its acting like the fuel pump or regulator is acting up as it loses power while driving and pumping the pedal usually does nothing. Its so bad that I cant drive it since top speed is about 10mph. If I just slightly touch the gas while driving I can get up to speed a little. It stalls when idling often too.
One thing I notice is if I stop driving for a while (with engine running) sometimes I can then drive away and the engine seems almost normal for 1-2 mins with lots of power. When the engine is cold it usually drives for 2 mins before these problems start.
This is a 2005 Solara. 4cyl 2AZFE gas engine - automatic - all stock - roughly 100,000 miles on the clock.
Its giving 2 codes: P0172 and P2196
I have looked up these codes and from reading I thought to try replacing the MAF sensor - no difference.
It feels like I'm driving a car with a bad carburetor again - really bogs out and laggy and sometimes even sounds like its backfiring slightly.
A bit of history:
- a few months ago I got the P0031 code so I replaced the upstream o2 sensor and all was good for a month or so.
- then about a month ago I got the P0136 code so I replaced the downstream o2 but it was starting to run badly before I could install and when I replaced it there was no change.
- last week I was surprised to see codes P0113, 172, 300, 301, 302, 303, and 136 but found that the battery terminal voltage was 10.5v so I replaced battery and those codes do not come back now.
- I'm thinking that due to the bad battery maybe the o2 sensors were not a problem? The upstream replacement made no difference (though it was running fine-just the CEL came on), and the downstream replacement made no difference (runs badly before and after).
My guess is fuel pressure, regulator, or injectors but its just getting too expensive to try.
How do I get abs light to go off? I removed and cleaned all sensors, checked all wiring, fuses, and diode. I also used a a scanner, and it tells me there are no error codes. What do i do now?
View 12 RepliesAny way, they come to me and tell me the tranny is slipping. I immediately notice the SES light on. I decided to check codes to see if I have any errors coming from the tranny. So far I have these codes: P0455 P1151 P0304 P0174
I dont know this vehicle at all and wanted to see if some of these items are common and/or possibly related to each other.
Heres what I have found:
P0455 - EVAP leak somewhere. Seems a lot of people have discovered a crack in the filler neck.
P1151 - Passenger O2 LEAN
P0304 - Cyl 4 misfire
P0174 - Passenger lean condition "A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time."
Looks like I need to clean the MAF, check vacuum leaks, possibly replace passenger O2. Ive also read some of these codes come from a common issue with the intake gasket. May need to replace it? How should I clean the MAF? Can I use some normal solvents?
I need to mention a tick/tap on pass side under cold idle (consistent, but not constant). Still need to test to see if it happens at other times. Right now has Seafoam in the oil and about to run it and then change the oil. Also, have ran it though the brake booster. Currently in the sit and wait process, about to go out and make the neighborhood smoke like Hiroshima.
My 1998 Explorer with 120,000 mile on it. The check light just came on. I have had several auto part stores plug in the scan tool and there were no error codes. I'm looking for the reset button location. I am also wondering should there be something missed by the scan tools, will the light activate should there be a real problem.
View 9 RepliesI have 2007 explorer 4.0 4x4. Check engine light and wrench symbol on with codes po743 po750 po755 po po765 po966 po966 po970. Feels like it is now stuck in 3rd gear.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 explorer, eddie bauer (120k), which i really love driving. Recently, i have lights coming on in my dash: ABS, traction control and the 4wd light intermittently flashing. I went to Advance auto parts and they were able to read the codes, a B1155 - speed wheel sensor LF input circuit failure and a B1145 - speed wheel sensor RF input circuit failure. I have replaced both wheel bearing hubs (with the speed sensors) about 6 monthe ago. the connectors leading to the speed sensors are both showing 12v at the plug. Is the problem both my sensors have gone bad? Is there any way to test these sensors. I need to get this fixed quickly since i am due for an emission test very soon and it will not pass if any dash lights are on.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 5.0, the check engine light is on and my code reader gives P0161 and P0155 both stating that the O2 heater circuit sensor is bad. I replaced all 4 of the O2 sensors in the truck, cleared the codes but they still keep coming back. I have tried for a few days now to find something online similar to this but have had no luck. I am not sure what else to do.
View 1 RepliesI love my car 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS but once it hit 60K miles, the engine light came on and it has been eating gas. I get up to 160 miles per tank now. My MP fluctuates from 12-25 MPG. I literally watch it jump when I fill up the car, then a few miles later, it drops again. Code P2196 always comes up. (stuck rich)
Dealer advised me to do fuel system flush.
Dealer replaced upstream o2 Sensor
Dealer replaced Check Valve
New Spark Plugs last Fall due to hearing really loud spark knocking... and also re-gapped last week. Now I can hear them slightly again.
Engine light just came back on after almost 200 miles.
Reading some other threads- apparently this seems to be a known issue for my car.
I am wondering if I should try replacing the downstream o2 sensor.... OR consider trading my car.
This morning when attempting a cold start of my 05 6.0, it would not start was noticeably harder cranking. I had no CEL. I checked my scan Guage and the volts were 13.4 and fcm main power was 48.4. I checked and I had a p0405 code. What could be going on? I read that it can be a stuck or bad EGR valve? Could it be battery related?
View 9 RepliesI have this problem code P0405. At fist it come up with a turbo under boost. I have replaced the Turbo and egr valve and I still have the P0405. I did notice a oily residual in the port for the egr valve I see no deference in coolant. She idles good I just have no power when I put it in gear to move.
View 3 RepliesThis started a couple of weeks back. It started with 3 codes, a misfire, bad coil and stuck rich. I have since done a tune up replacing all the spark plugs, the bad coil and even the O2 sensor. It is now at a point where the CEL is not on but it still throws the P2196 with a brand new o2 sensor just installed. I am stumped as what I should be checking for next. It seems to run ok but idle is not as smooth as pre-codes. The truck is a 2006 XLT..
View 5 RepliesNeed to clear codes after doing a lot of work on this used Eddie Bauer With the 4.6 engine. Is there a procedure to clear the codes to get a new reading?
View 1 Replies