Ford - Explorer :: Rough Idle At Start Up - CEL On
Apr 29, 2016
When I start the truck it hard to start and the idle is rough but when it warms up it seems to get better but still miss fires now and then so i was thinking could it be a bad O2 there is now "CEL" because the battery was dead (installed a new one) and the truck has not been on the road yet (want to get everything fixed first) and update on the door alarm will be working on that tomorrow almost forgot 2002 explorer 4.0L "E" for the vin 4 wheel drive 124k on it.
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What can cause my 99 explorer xlt to have a rough idle on initial start ups?(Its worse in the winter time) And sometime after driving places when i put it in park the truck will cut off. It has the 6 cylinder SOHC if that's useful.
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I'm a diesel mechanic and know my way around Powerstrokes, this 4.0 is not what I would usually work on, but I have a friend who has 2006 explorer 4.0L SOHC, someone told him he needed a motor with out explanation why, so I didn't want to see him get ripped off. The problem is it idles very rough, hard to start, and stalls. There's no DTCs , if you hold the accelerator slightly it will stay running, but once you let off it will either idle really bad and misfire or cut off, once pushing the accelerator the rpms raise very smoothly up til 3500 which is what I assume the rev limit is in nuetral.
I've done checks with focom and forscan, I was thinking possibly a bad fuel pump, while monitoring fuel pressure I see a range of 289 - 326 kpa with 26% fuel pump I guess duty cycle would be the correct term(once again I'm a diesel guy, and use to dealing with IPRs and Hpops) not sure if the desired fuel pressure is relevant on these but it always stays at 269kpa. I believe that equals out to 40-48psi while I believe this system is supposed to have somewhere in the range of 60 - 70, but I wouldn't expect to get a rough idle with no load with almost 50 psi of fuel pressure.
So with no DTCs Im baffled, and don't want to start wasting money just throwing parts at it. I've thought everything from fuel pressure sensor, to coil pack(replaced 4 months ago) to crank and cam sensors.
I did end up getting a code p106, but I believe this is because I didnt tighten the intake hose after checking the throttle bottle, I just slid it back on. out of the 4 days of testing first time I seen a code pop up besides unplugging some sensors here and there to make sure the pcm would actually register a dtc.
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4.0 SOHC cranks once no start, then starts on second crank. 104K miles and used to idle very smooth, now mildly rough and sometimes upon stopping the rpms will dip down to almost stalling but not every time. Also just had the fuel pump replaced.
Also... Seafoam? Is this really as good as it sounds, I mean it can be used on anything, except cereal!
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I have some major problems with my explorer. The idle is rough and accelerating is rough also. If I nearly put it to the floor it almost seems like it studders the power. it will feel great for a second that feels like it's less power for a second then more and less and more and less. When I'm sitting at idle, it will idle fine then after a minute or so it will bog way down and shake the whole vehicle. when that happens I give it some gas and it comes back to normal idle then it does it again after sitting for another minute. I've replaced spark plugs, wires, alternator, oil change and some tires. I've been told by many mechanics it could be the IAC Valve or the fuel pump or the fuel filter or a vacuum leak.
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My explorer has been running a little rough, particularly at idle. When I take off from a rough idle, it'll run rough until I hit 25-30mph. I ran by O'Reilly's hoping to pick up a pack of spark plugs and be done with it, ended up leaving with a new MAF sensor. It ran better for about 10 miles (I'm a delivery driver, so I did a lot of stop and go immediately), before it ran even worse than it did before, but at least my CEL finally came on. Took it back to O'Reilly's and they read a MAF sensor code and a catalytic system code (didn't ask for the codes, and now realize that was a mistake).
So today I took it to a muffler shop to have the catalytic system diagnosed. They looked at it for 10 minutes and told me they didn't think it was the converter. They said it seemed more like the EGR valve or solenoid, or the IAC. He scanned the codes again and got multiple "running lean" codes (0171, 0174, etc). The guy said I didn't have a vacuum leak, so I think I can rule that out. Unfortunately, the truck idled fine the whole time so he didn't feel comfortable giving me a definitive answer. He told to to leave the EGR valve hose unplugged for a few days and see if anything changes. I'm thinking about running a bottle of fuel cleaner through it or taking off the IAC and/or EGR and cleaning them myself.
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99 explorer 4.0 automatic, lately been running weird. Starts up but will stall out unless you let it warm up. And idle drops below 500 rpm. And is really rough feeling. To like 2 or 300 rpm, then will stall but will start right back up. When I changed spark plugs and wires problem stopped for about 2 weeks and now is back. And has no engine code.
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Bought a used 2003 Explorer 4X4 that runs like crap.... All I know is it has new upper and lower radiator hoses, new battery, new brakes, 2 new tires and new belts... suspension seems great and body is nice too. It obviously needed a new radiator and complete exhaust, so I did those. Now it is running better ( I can actually get the RPMs over 1500) but still running rough and will stall if I let off the gas. It will surge and dip in RPMs. Very suspicious of vacuum leak.
Unplugged the MAFS and it roared upon start but within a minute started the sputtering etc. Currently pulled the IAC and check continuity between pins and it was 10 ohms so that passed but there is no continuity between either pin and the case. So this seems to indicate I need to replace the IAC which I will do tomorrow. I would love to find a diagram that displays the vacuum system so I can make a thorough check of it. Also seems to have an oil leak on drivers side valve cover gasket.
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1994 Ford Explorer; When I start it, if I don't step on the gas it will stop. If I give it some gas when I start it, the engine will race and then decelerates about 2000 rpms and keeps doing this, it does get better as the engine warms up. But the idle is really rough. It has new wires, plugs, vacume lines, oil change, air filter and battery. If I put the gas pedal to the rug, it will go from 4000rpm back down to 2000rpm and continue doing this as long as I keep the pedal to the metal. I had it put on an analyzer and it didn't read anything.
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I have a weird intermittent problem. Sometimes when I start my explorer it will idle down and die immediately, I restart and it will idle about 400-600 really rough, sounds like it is missing. When I drive it it is jerky and the acceleration is sluggish but after I get it up to about 20 mph it clears out and then drives and idles fine until I shut it down. Plus these things only happen about every third time (on average) that I drive it. Lastly it's not giving me any codes. What this could be?
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ok, 3 times now I've been extremely close to being hit head on by oncoming traffic due to a seemingly uncurable stalling problem. It idles rough sometimes, and other times it seems fine. BUT when sitting at a light, waiting to turn left after the oncoming traffic has a quick opening, I start to go, I get halfway across the intersection and then without warning, it dies completely. Now its too late to stop and back up- and the cars are flying head on towards you locking up they're brakes. One time I would have been killed by the 18 wheeler that was coming if I hadn't gotten it started and moving again just in time.
I replaced the IAC, the plugs, filters and wires, and the EGR valve. I checked everywhere for intake leaks and found nothing. Changed the O2 sensors since they had plenty of mileage on em. It idles like crap still, even after 30+ tanks of every kind of injector cleaner they make. We used the snap on scanner tool to monitor things and it never acted up then. The TPS seems to move smoothly, and fuel pressure was checked and found to be around 25-30 psi. Don't know if that's normal. The intake air temp was reading a constant 120 degrees F. I also checked the fuel cap to make sure it was closing completely. The dealer checked the TB for excessive clearance and said it was ok.
It seems to only stall like that after driving on the highway and then stopping at the first light after that.
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I have a 2004 Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC V6.
I was having some rough idle and a P0401 code for Insufficient EGR Flow. In the process of investigating the EGR valve, I had to remove the throttle position sensor to remove the EGR. After re-installing everything, I had a worse rough idle and I again removed the EGR valve; however this time instead of removing the throttle position sensor, I removed the entire throttle body assembly.
After re-installing everything again, I now have very rough idle and no pedal response. I have the following two codes:
P2104- Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Closed
P2112- Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Closed
I did not unplug any harness, and all connections are secure. I did not remove the battery cables while working on it, but I did remove the negative cable for about 45 minutes after getting the P2104/P2112 codes hoping a reset my fix things.
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesn't stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. That's when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterward. I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as the O2 censor.
I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gaping. Thought I had fixed the problem. The vehicle ran perfectly. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it. Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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My truck is a 1995 Explorer 4.0 150,000 miles, 5 speed.
Problem - Rough idle : when cold it's worse and will stall and choke a little. When warmed up it just has a rough idle but will not stall and stays at a pretty constant RPM. It's very tolerable when warmed up but still not right. It drives fine once off idle. No black smoke that I can see. Power may be just a little off but I would not bet on it. MPG seems about normal but haven't been on a long enough trip since problem started to tell for sure. Also longer than normal cranking on occasion.
Diagnostics so far : Fuel pressure is at 32 PSI, vacuum off regulator it's at 40 PSI. Not sure about key on only as I don't trust the autozone loaner gauges. You have to fiddle with it each time before it will read. Leak down after 30 minutes was about 4 PSI
No Check engine light ever. KOEO test shows no hard or on demand codes, I get the 111 pass. From CM I get 336 and 45.
336 is EGR related and my looks pretty rusty. I put a vacuum pump on it while running and the EGR held vacuum but had no effect at all on idle, I was expecting it to get worse as I opened the EGR so it may be stuck.
Searched high and low for vacuum leaks by ear, visual and with starting fluid all turned up nothing.
Actions so far : Replaced plugs, wires, IAC, and fuel filter. Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body plus ran lucas fuel injector cleaner through it.
Next steps : I've got the EGR but it's so rusty I am sure I'll break the tube it bolts to plus I don't know it that alone will cause the rough idle. Will the DPFE sensor and/or EVR create a rough idle yet not turn on the CEL?
Thought about changing the fuel pump and/or regulator but the numbers are not terrible. Agree?
Thought about changing the intake gaskets but don't see any leaks.
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Explorer with 4.0 has a rough idle, just put new plugs & wires, air filter looks good. i did get a new fuel filter as well but haven't gotten to that yet. It has 102k. I have read some info about motor mounts could come lose casing the motor move a little more, not sure about that one. its the wife's haven't driven or looked into it yet, its on the to do list weekend. She also informed that it seems to lose power a little while driving sometimes, thinking possible fuel pump now?
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2003 Ford Explorer 4.6 liter AWD. Having some kind of VERY STUBBORN idle / emission problem. When it started it was an intermittent rough idle, mostly going too low or making a periodic "drumming" sound that could be felt and heard at the air cleaner box. CHeck engine codes were PO 442 evap system leak. I first cleaned and inspected throttle body, mass air flow sensor and idle air control valve. I inspected hoses for leaks, including spraying cleaner to see if I could detect idle changes / leaks. I then replaced Idle Air Control Valve. Did not seem to cure problem . SO took it into Ford Dealership and they smoke tested and said needed Vapor Management Valve and Vent Solenoid. I replaced VMV myself. Idle no longer "rattled" but when driving and braking the idle would drop down very low and sometimes not "kick up" and would die. I then took it back to dealership to have them replace the vent solenoid and reprogram the PCM. Still doing it. They said I might have a defective (new) Idle air control and to replace it- otherwise they dont have a clue.
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126000kms on 03 explorer 4.6 truck started. Running rough at idle and under load.... Code came up for cyl 8 injector. Replaced injector... problem still there. Switched cop and plug with another cyl and plug.... same code and cycl 8 is definitely not working. Would a generic problem always affect i cylinder. I even checked wire clip on for injector... it appears ok. There is power to injector wire clip.
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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I have a 95 explorer, has been a great truck until lately. it started as just a small rough idle every now and then, nothing to make a big deal about. just changed the oil and wiped things down a bit, started it up ran just fine for a couple of minutes and when it starts to just barely warm up and the idle drops down it starts louping or surging, if i hold the throttle open it bit it kinda goes away and it would continue to warm up and not have a problem idling. now it won't even do that. i'm pulling several codes, to many to list and the truck ran just fine a few days ago ...
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I have 2007 explorer with the 4.6 V8....
Recently it started running horrible. Rough idle, drives badly, hesitation, etc. Check engine light is on, code P0171. I cannot find a vacuum leak, and i am pretty much at a loss. Before it started running poorly i replaced the thermostat, and flushed the coolant. I am assuming this is a coincidence.
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When it's cold outside my car will start up, but not stay running. The only way I can get it to stay running is to keep my food on the gas for up to five minutes. Once the vehicle is warmed up, it stays running. If I start it every hour or so, it will run fine. It's just when it's been sitting out in around zero degree weather overnight for example.
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