Ford - Explorer :: Noisy Catalytic Converter - No Codes
Apr 19, 2014
4.6L DOHC - My driver's side catalytic converter is making quite a bit of noise during acceleration when the engine is warm. I have no trouble codes, no cel and the truck seems to be running fine in general.
I am exploring repair possibilities. I've talked to two shops - one general repair, one exhaust specialist. Neither gave me any options other than to replace the whole system. That isn't an option. I'm a semi-competent home mechanic and if that's what has to be done I'll just buy the walker system from RA and do it myself.
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My new truck is running really loud. I got under it and noticed that the catalytic converter is not connected to the tailpipe. What would I need in order to repair it? Is this a common issue with this truck? If I need clamps, what is the proper size, also the size of the proper tailpipe if it's too rusted out.
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I just failed inspection because check engine light is on. The codes state that catalytic converter and O2 sensor are "not ready". I understand it has to do with the computer but not much else. Someone on Mazda 6 message board provided a complicated sequence of driving instructions including maintaining various speeds and RPMs for specific lengths of time which they said would reset the computer. My mechanic is at a loss. This car is a lemon and I would just like to get the inspection done so I can trade it in and get something that doesn't keep breaking.
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See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
How to Replace a Catalytic Converter
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Air Intake and Exhaust Guides
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 Diesel. I recently cut the 4 inch exhaust pipe right behind the end of the cab cutting off the muffler and I thought the catalytic converter as well. I was talking to another super duty owner and he said he thought there was another catalytic converter further up in the pipe. Is this true? If so, how far would would I have to cut it to cut it off. Would this make the truck any louder...wouldn't mind if it did.
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Looking for a used catalytic converter that is bad ? I want to hollow it out. I have a couple of these trucks so I thought about just hollowing one and swapping it back and forth for smog testing but my luck i will hollow the one that is going to fail next year.
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I crawled under the AeroRetard the other day while it was parked and idling to find out where the rattling noise was coming from.
It seems to be coming from the rear catalytic converter.
I was wondering if this is the case, would it also cause a lack of power, as in driving up a steep hill or driving up a steep inclined bridge?
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It is true that, for a supercharged engine is beneficial to have some back pressure in the exhaust? I have a 2007 FX4 whipple supercharged, 5.4L, 3V, no cat, true dual X 2.5 ", I have no tailpipe emissions problems in my country, my problem is the power to the wheels. I install a high flow catalytic converters?.
The Magnaflow 94106 is what many people recommend but in this forum, people from Bear Rivers says he does not meet the high flows, what is the correct part number.
I have a 4.56 ratio 315/70R17 tires and power makes lose significantly?, is this true?. I have a big question, in particular point 1, because I think I lost torque at low rpm and, according to what I read, maybe this escape as free to be affecting the successful performance of the engine.
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I own a 2000 E 250 Econoline van with 170,000 miles. I've been encountering loss of power on acceleration for months. Terrible gas mileage (8-10 mpg) and just recently, I get that rotten egg smell when I gun it and and travel above 65/70. I can feel heat from under the van when i step out as well. I've been blowing individual coil packs every other month after a long drive with a lot of inclines. It all points to a clogged catalytic converter. This van has 3. A front left and right by the manifolds, and a large one before the muffler. My question is, what causes them to go bad? I want to fix the cause before spend the money on new cats. Ive heard a rich fuel mixture could do it. Are there sensors that need to be changed?
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I wanted to ask a couple questions about this method of adding Lacquer thinner to my gas tank to clean my so called clogged catalytic converters. First off, I have a 2006 F150 5.4 with 90k miles on it and my engine light is on. When I took it to autozone, they said it was just a clogged catalytic converter. Well to be sure, I took it to another autozone, and they said it was an oxygen sensor. I run a lot of ethanol in my truck. My instincts tell me that the catalytic converters are probably clogged because when I mash on the gas it doesn't accelerate as fast as it should being a V8.
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ill be replacing my muffler here soon, its rusted out blows smoke out all the rust holes, and so on. gonna replace with a nice flo master. Question is, when is it time to replace the catalytic converter? 15 years old and 93000 miles, it still seems like its in good shape, but could it be getting clogged? just from the sounds of the exhaust the past few months, it almost sounds like the truck is somewhat congested. The power from the engine is kinda week, but that's the engine itself. I have no real problems getting up to speed. my hesitation issues from before turned out to be water in the gas tank. Figured since im down there does it make sense just to bite the bullet and throw a new catalytic converter on?
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The wife's 1997 Mountaineer, 5.0 with all the bells and whistles, Every time she stops, wet, dry, snow, any type of surface, the ABS brakes activate just as she comes to a stop. Heavy pressure, light pressure, doesn't matter. She says it sounds like a cow mooo-ing. 138,000 miles. New pads and rotors were installed 40K miles ago (about 3 years ago) she doesn't drive much but the noise is aggravating. No check engine light, or ABS light. Seems to come on when it gets below 10mph consistently. The Engine light comes on occasionally with a catalytic converter fault, replaced the converters but still get the light. I don't think it is related.
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What would cause both Cat converters to fail at 20,000 mi.? Mine went out and the back pressure caused the engine to knock under acceleration. Also blew out an injector and plug. Luckily it was under warranty but wonder what could caused it.
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2010 f150 with 5.4 catalytic converter. Engine light has been going on and off for the past couple of months. Had the code read and its says bank one catalytic converter. Ford dealer said to replace the 02 sensors. Had that done but light still comes on and off with same code. Could there be something wrong with the sensor or should I just have the CC replaced also. I just don't understand why it would come on for a few days and then not come on for a few days if its the CC?
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94 Ford Ranger 2.3L
I started to have a slightly rough idle a while back, but not severe. I figured she was just aging a bit.
Changed plugs. Check engine light came on. Changed plug wires. Then I had a couple of episodes where it started to lose power and idle really rough (stalling). Both times it stopped after a few minutes. Had code read- they said it was coils. Replaced ignition coils. Check engine light still on, but it went a few weeks without power loss.
Tonight the loss of power returned and didn't leave, and I had a glowing red catalytic converter after I limped home 20 miles (hope I didn't do any serious damage, I was stranded.)
Found this post : [URL] .... But there's no resolution.
So, I'm probably dealing with a misfire, and I'm sure I torched my cat after tonight. So any other easy diagnose/fixes for a misfire? I'm a shade tree mechanic- so I know just enough to get myself in trouble. If I can't get a resolution soon it will be off to the mechanic (which, maybe I should have done 1st...)
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I recently had my catalytic converter replaced with a non-OEM cat. The check engine light came on and a different shop (different from the shop that replaced the cat) said that it will keep coming on because I had the cat replaced with a non-OEM cat.
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I have a 2001 VT GTI with 155K miles on it. It is in very good condition. I have loved the car except for the high maintenance costs that typically seem to be associated with VWs.
I found out this week after my check engine light came on that the car needs a new catalytic converter and a new new secondary air pump.
Let's assume that this diagnosis is correct and the repair is accurate for the sake of this posting (and I have no doubt it is). In other words, I don't want to get my question derailed on that issue.
The car has new Michelin tires on it and runs well. The problem is that it will fail the state emissions test I am required to take next December, and I will either be forced to have the car repaired or will not be able to get updated license tabs (isn't that sweet?!).
It seems that I have a few options:
1. Get the repair done (ouch) and keep driving the car for a few more years. Repair cost is about what the market value of the car is (from what I have seen).
2. Sell the car "as-is" between now and December and see what cash I can get out of it. Any buyer will discount the value of the vehicle based on the repairs needed. Of course, then I'll need a replacement vehicle of some sort.
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After installing the lift on my 6.2 F250 I ran into the well known issue where the front drive shaft hits the catalytic converter. The two options I was told that I had was to weld in a slight jog into the exhaust guts to go around the cat or to get a smaller diameter drive shaft... I had the truck down at my local exhaust shop to have a new cat back system installed and I had the exhaust guy throw in his .02 about what to do.
He came up with a super easy/obvious fix. When the left and right exhaust meet up before the collector there is a welded brace that secures both sides together. He cut about .5" out of it and loosened the flanges and shifted the exhaust over. Welded the brace back up... Works perfect.
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I have a 2000 Lincoln Town Car with a single exhaust system, part of/attached to the frontal area of the exhaust "Y" pipe are two lumps with heat shields, the muffler is obvious in the mid-section of the car, but are those "lumps" the catalytic converters, and if so, why two when the older cars had only one?
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Someone put sugar in my gas tank so I had it worked on at the Dodge place they replaced my fuel pump..fuel filter cleaned the tank..flushed the lines cleaned my injectors and replaced the plugs..I went to pick it up I barely made it a mile down the road I had no power and a lady flagged me down to tell me to pull over because I had sparks coming from the bottom of my van I looked under the van and the catalytic converter was red like hit coals the Dodge place is telling me its my flex plate? I think they are misdiagnosing the issue because before the sugar issue I had no problems with my van?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Prius that is currently in limp mode...
Took it to the dealer for diagnostics and they said the Catalytic Converter has failed...So I went online, bought a new one and replaced it. The symptoms prior the Cat replacement were still there...mpg loss, power loss, and exhaust air was not exiting the end of the pipe but actually leaking out the connection point where the Cat and the manifold met.
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