Vehicle 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with 4.6L
Ok, just did a head gasket replacement. Everything is now hooked back up. Now when we try to restart the car, we get lights, but nothing from the starter. Also the OBDII code puller can't communicate with the car. Also the security light flashes very fast when you try to start.
I recently replaced the head gasket on a 95 Geo Prizm. Now when I tried to start it, all I get is the starter clicking. I tried tapping the starter solenoid, to no effect. The only electrical that I messed with during the head gasket replacement was to disconnect the battery.
View 4 Replies2007 Sports Trac .. Does the motor need to be removed to replace head gaskets? 4.0 sohc
View 1 RepliesSo, I blew my head gasket and have been looking for what to replace it with. From what I've seen, just an OEM gasket would be best.? I'm also putting ARP studs in it, unless there's another brand I should put in it.
View 3 RepliesI need walked through the take down to replace the head gasket on an 05 mountaineer with a 4.0. I've never worked on one of these so I don't even know. I havent even seen the engine to know where to start.
View 3 Repliesi have a 06 explorer with the 4.0 V6. 4x4 XLT with 106xxx miles. i just bought this thing back in January. of corse, i didn't get an ext warranty. well the past couple months its been loosing power, its got a stumble and seems sluggish. its losing water. no water in oil, no oil in water, don't smell coolant in the exhaust. yesterday i went out and looked and found at front of head on pass side at front cyl, there was coolant from head gasket down the block and also in the valley of the block. i started the engine and once warm, everything was dry. shut it off after about 20 minutes and still nothing wet. this afternoon the only wet spot was in the valley which was dry after running yesterday. is there anything else i can check before tearing it down? with the water in the valley, it looks like it could be coming from the thermo housing.
View 6 RepliesI'm going to be doing head gaskets on my 2006 F350 6.0. I know I need the head bolt tool and head lifting fixture. I have the tool to release the injector wiring plug from the head. Are there any other specialty tools I need? I saw in Hot Rod magazine a few months ago there was a new head gasket for the 6.0. Unfortunately I don't have the magazine anymore. I can't remember the brand of gasket. I know everyone in the past has said use OEM Ford head gaskets. Lastly, can I do the head gasket job and put studs in without pulling the cab or HVAC box?
View 7 RepliesI have a quick question, I just replaced the head gaskets on my 4.6 with 301,000 miles on it and now my battery only charges when you punch it and when you lift off the gas pedal, in town it does fine, but on drives 25 miles on the highway the battery guage goes to the line on the bottom. What could be causing that?
View 2 RepliesI am replacing the head gaskets on a 2006 Ford F250 6.0 .... I have heard that I should replace the head bolts with studs. Do I torque the studs just like the bolts?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 pontiac montana that needs the head gasket replace. Mileage is 152,000 miles with a v6 engine. I would like to get at least another 75,000 miles once the repair is done. Is it worth doing as alternative is to scrap the van and buy a new vehicle...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Subaru Forester X Sport Model. I just passed 86,000 miles - much of that open road driving. My head gaskets need to be replaced. This seems somewhat early. I recently switched from using regular motor oil to a synthetic blend that the dealership suggested. Is there any history suggesting that switching lubricants might cause the head gaskets to deteriorate?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1997 Honda Civic that I was given by an elderly neighbor's daughter after the elderly lady went to the grocery and ended up 100 miles away when she could not figure out how to get home. The car was smogged at the beginning of the year but when I got it ran very rough and the temp went nearly to overheating on the drive home when I was stuck in stop and go traffic.I found the radiator fluid level low and an oily residue inside the radiator water bottle. I took it to a mechanic to check it out and was told it had a blown head gasket and maybe worse.
I am thinking of buying a rebuilt cylinder head and replacing it myself but I am not sure how to diagnose if any other damage could have been caused to the engine. It's hard to know but I am guessing that the engine was damaged during the 100 mile road trip due to low coolant level. It turns out short term memory loss was the diagnosis for my elderly neighbor. I filled the coolant level and ran the engine for a bit and the temp stayed normal but the rough running remains. The oil dip stick shows no signs of coolant in the oil and the coolant looks bright green when I looked in the radiator after topping it up with some water.
Any way to detect if I could be facing bigger issues like failed bearings? I am OK to do the head replacement but an engine replacement starts to get into the realm of what it would cost to get another car of the same age.
A 2007 Toyota Camry 2.4 was brought into the shop I work at smoking badly and running terrible. The car had been run hot because the radiator was busted and it blew the head gasket. So I pulled the head and sent if off to the machine shop to have it checked. They said it was badly warped across three cylinder and they resurfaced it.
Now I have everything re assembled, but it simply will not start. All the timing marks on the timing chain line up where they should be. All four coils are firing. Injectors wires pulse noid lights. A few times it has hit and sputtered like it was trying to start but never successfully does.
How much should it cost to have it replaced? car seems to be running just fine but leaking oil.
View 6 RepliesI'll start by saying that I have a 2004 GTI 1.8t. Picked the car up from a local junkyard around 2 months ago for a grand. They were unsure why it was running rough, so I took a chance and picked it up. Got it back to the house and the timing chain tensioner was shot. Ordered a new one up. Went to a friends house and he noticed it was producing some white smoke from the tail pipe and suggest I take a look into my head gasket. Replaced the head gasket about 2 weeks ago. Got everything buttoned back up and it smoked even worse.
Being my first head gasket change I accepted the fact that I may not have been thorough enough in my replacement and stripped her back down once again. Made sure I was extremely focused and replaced the head gasket again. I just got her back together and she is still smoking.
I know for a fact that coolant is getting into my pistons and causing my spark plugs to foul out. Too much moisture in the cylinder.
On my car which never overheated but one day the overflow for the radiator started gurgling and I turned off the car fast and brought to our mechanic and he advised that it was head gasket after changing hoses and water pump. when I first realized the gurgling and shut off the car and never ran it again did i save the engine and replacing the head gasket is a good thing. also did I save the head from warping by my actions?
View 13 RepliesIve had both the piston rings and head gasket replaced on my 96 civic. This isn't for high end upgrades or anything just because i need to pass smog and both needed replaced. I am being told that once i get my car i should drive slow for 100 miles before i take it to smog. Ive read many different opinions on seating the rings but all are for people upgrading their car. I am sure I just got normal replacements.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2003 Explorer with the 4.0 K motor. It has a vacuum leak and the check engine light will come on from time to time. My work buddy has a high end computer and it showed that the driver side bank was running lean. The computer showed the O2 sensors to be working fine, and I replaced the PCV valve. All other vacuum line appear to be in good condition and I tried the spray test with the break cleaner with the motor running. This is leading me to believe the air intake gaskets where due for replacement. Here is my problem, I can not get the last bolt out of the plenum. The one on the driver side up against the fire wall. I tried to remove the cowl in order to get a straight shot at it but I can not get the seem seal to break free.
View 4 RepliesI have read all I could find on replacing a blown head gasket and and after absorbing everything that TigerDan posted on here, I dove in and began. After disassembling all the topside junk I finally got the intake manifold loose and got down to the head. I began undoing the head bolts and found two broken bolts. The head won't budge so I am calling in a cherrypicker. I don't know what kind of mess I'll find when the head comes off. I assume the head will be warped or the block may be damaged.
View 6 RepliesI have the same problem as the gentleman w/ the '97 4x4 4.6. Intermittent overheating. The water pump and t-stat have both been replaced, as well as the radiator. Some one told me a piece of gasket material from the heater core may be floating around and periodically clogging things. Could this happen? and what's the fix? Also, someone told the guy w/ the 4x4, that he could have blown head gasket, and to perform a sniffer test to find out.#1. What is a sniffer test? #2. If the head gasket is blown, wouldn't there be water in the oil?
View 4 RepliesTruck is a 2006 F-350 6.0, ARP studs, Ford Head Gaskets, Bullet Proof Diesel Oil Cooler Kit and EGR with an SCT tuner on tow mode.
Towing approx 15,000 pounds noticed truck started to lose power and misfire. Pulled over and noticed engine oil all over the driver side on engine, looks like it sprayed to top of engine as well. Oil on valve cover, FICM, exhaust manifold. I looked under the truck and saw that oil is all over bottom of the truck, differential covered in oil as well. Looks like blue smoke coming from tailpipe and smells of oil burning. Cannot tell where oil originated from.
I removed the EGR Valve, to see if there was moisture on the valve and when I looked into the intake manifold there is engine oil pooled in the bottom of the intake manifold and on the EGR Valve.
This is not dirty water from soot, it is oil. Truck is misfiring, with no codes being thrown. I noticed a small amount of white residue around the radiator cap however I had just filled up the reservoir, week prior. I unfortunately do not have gauges in the truck and rely on the factory gauges; coolant temps did not rise or move at all when this happened. I am not sure if I blew a head gasket, and really confused on how engine oil got into the intake manifold. I ran the engine with the air filter removed and can see blue smoke coming out of the CCV and oil in residue in front of the turbo inlet.