Ford - Explorer :: Loss Of Speed - No Response When Pushed Gas Pedal All The Way To The Floor
Jun 6, 2015
So a few days ago the family and I were on a road trip. After driving for close to three hours we ran into a problem. We were doing about 75, which is about 3000 rpms with the 4.6L, When we dropped from 3k to about 400 and started to lose speed. I pushed the gas peddle all the way to the floor and no response at all. I pulled over and it had a very rough and choppy idle and it wanted to die. It eventually did. I checked all fuses with nothing found and i even hit the fuel pump shutoff reset. It started back up no problem and we got about 5 miles before it the exact same thing. Idle at about 400 rpms and no throttle response at all.
I shut it off and called a tow truck. It started up and they drove it onto the back of the tow truck and off at the local mechanic. They spent 2 whole days trying to diagnose it and even drove it for 4 hours straight, no issues. They pressure checked every system they could and tested every sensor they could. They could not find a single thing wrong with it. I drove it home 3 hours away with no issues. I got home and let it sit for about 10 minutes before I had to leave. I didn't make it more than 2 miles before the same issue popped up. I pulled over. Shut it off for 15 minutes and it started right up and drove home.
It threw 4 codes.
1. Pressure control solenoid malfunction
2. Fuel pump Primary circuit malfunction
3. Gear 3 ratio incorrect
4. Gear 4 Ratio incorrect
I've had 2 mechanics tell me its a PCM issue.
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I have a 2007 Tacoma 4 cylinder 5 speed. The clutch pedal started sticking about a month ago and has only happened a hand full of times. When the pedal is pushed to the floor it would stick, I thought it was hanging up on the floor mat at first but that was not the case. I went out to move the truck today and the pedal immediately stuck to the floor. Like usual I tapped the pedal kind of on the side to get it to release. the pedal then came back up. But now it wont push back in at all!!! There is only 1/2" of travel on the pedal and stops solid. It's like it is binding up on something. The spring seems to be in place the right way and nothing that I can see obviously wrong.
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Just got into my 2006 Sonata V6 this morning. 120,000 miles. Drove last night, no problems. Started her up now this morning, noted check engine light and ESC lights on.
Pushed accelator pedal, no increase in RPMS at all. Put the car in gear (auto), car moves forward and backward, but pressing the pedal doesn't increase the rpms at all, so right now its not driveable. Luckily, its in the driveway so I know it could be worse. Took floor mat out, no interference issue there.
I changed the starter solenoid and that was over 45,000 miles ago. Never had that problem.
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Ever since I've had this truck my parking brake has acted like this. My buddy has an '03 and his acts the same, but I figured I'd ask the question.
9 times out of 10 to set the parking brake, the pedal goes almost to the floor and doesn't seem like it really does anything. The other 1 out of 10 it goes half way and feels like it actually sets. Is this normal?
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I've got an '04 VW Golf that has recently taken to occasional bouts of no throttle response from the accelerator pedal. This has happened a handful of times during the past few months and until this morning occured only while driving on the highway at a constant rate of speed (~58-60mph). What happens is the engine will start to decelerate as though I've taken my foot off the gas but my foot hasn't moved off of the accelerator. The car's a manual transmission and for no good reason I usually shift into 4th gear (out of 5th) slap down the accelerator pedal a couple time to rev the engine while the cluth is depressed between gears and the accelerator will wake up and I'll get throttle response again and all's well. This morning it happened twice on the highway and once in first gear starting from a stop at an intersection. I'm worried I may not make it home... This is Minnesota and it's very cold -- could it have something to do with the temperature?
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Ok, so I have my VR6, and I have a 2.0T as well. My 2.0T feels MUCH faster than my VR6, and I don't think it's normal. What's happening is when I put the gas pedal to the floor, the car almost acts like it wants to die, the RPM's go all the way down, and there is complete power loss for a few seconds. Then all of a sudden, all the power is there at once. Weird, right? For some reason I keep thinking it's related to the transmission. It almost feels like the car has no idea what gear to be in and doesn't know to downshift or something.
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I'm working on a 1997 4.0 ohv and it has a hard start condition on first start up. any after that it will just be a crank no start condition unless you hold the gas pedal to the floor. Replaced the camshaft actuator, plenum gaskets, coolant temp sender and thermostat, fuel pressure is normal.
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Took my 850 Turbo out on the freeway today, and when I put the pedal to the floor on the onramp there was a very disconcerting loss of power just as the turbo was really kicking in. No issue under mild to medium boost, but when pushed hard there is a short loss of power/hesitation, almost like a backfire, then boosts again, then the same power loss until I back off on the gas. Cannot get full boost without this happening.
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So tonight, I lost most of my brakes. If I kept at low speeds and pressed the pedal to the floor I could eventually stop, but not well. I imagine this might be more of a general question not specific to Ex's, but I thought I would start here.
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2005 F150, 5.4 motor. Truck would loose power and no throttle response. Shutting off and restarting, ran fine. No codes showing. Cleaned throttle body and plate, reassembled. Key left on for 20 minutes. Tried to start vehicle. Making a clicking sound, dash lights flashing on and off when hear clicking sound when trying to start vehicle. when key turned to on position, dash lights go off except check engine light. When checked, no codes shown.
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well I don't exactly know if that's what I should call it... I was driving last night around 10 and I pushed the gas down 3/4 of the way or so to pass around this car but instead of downshifting and accelerating, it just revved up all the way, i kept hitting the gas and it was like revving it in neutral then it kicked back into gear... should i be concerned? It was fine the rest of the night but I wasn't driving it hard.
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I have a 1998 ford explorer and I am having a problem with my passenger side door lock actuator, or I think that's what it is. I can lock and unlock all the other doors by using the switch on either my driver side door, passenger side door or the switch in the rear of the vehicle but only the passenger side door does not react when this switch is pushed. I have to unlock the passenger door with the key or open the latch from the inside. I tried to take a look at it myself but I cant figure it out so I will put the door panel back on.
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2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.
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I bought my girlfriend a 2000 Ford Focus with 150k Miles on it to drive for the summer in Oregon. The car is physically in great condition with no noticeable leaks on it. After a week or so of driving, my girlfriend complained that a couple of times she would be driving the car and while going up a hill "nothing would happen" sometimes when she punched the accelerator. I asked her if the engine revolutions were going up and if the engine made a "vroom" sound (to try to see if the transmission was slipping) and she said it did not.
On a long trip driving from Seattle to Portland, she was driving again and we were climbing a long hill and she suddenly complained that "nothing was happening" when she punched the accelerator. She panicked and pulled off to the side of the road quickly. There was no shaking or vibration. I did not hear the engine wind up when this happened... so I am assuming the tach was not going up when she depressed the gas pedal. I opened the hood and looked inside and seeing nothing obvious, I switched to the drivers' side. No codes were thrown. I drove the car up the rest of the hill and to a flat area and we let the car cool off for a few minutes. I drove the car for the next 75 miles to Portland without event. When we got to her grandparents house, I changed the spark plugs (which were pretty fouled up), and changed the fuel filter (which actually looked pretty new.) and it seemed to satisfy her for awhile. Being that I havent experienced the issue, I just assumed she is not used to driving a small hatchback with a fairly wimpy engine.
In the meantime I had the entire front end redone, control arms, etc and alignment because she had had a slight shake...which is unrelated here but i figured I'd mention it. So, the other night she calls me on the side of the road, slightly shaken. Her latest incident was as such: at the bottom of an on-ramp to the highway, she punched the accelerator and "nothing happened" when she hit the pedal. This time the check engine light briefly came on, and the "OIL" light came on. She was able to pull off to the side of the road somehow and then pull to an exit. She turned the car off and let it sit for 5 minutes.
Here's the weird part: She started it up and claims she put it in "Drive" and pressed the gas pedal and nothing happened and the car actually started creeping backwards. She hit the brake and turned the car off. She started the car and drove away 5 minutes later without incident and drove it 20 minutes home. She said her gas was very low when this happened, close to the gas light coming on.
She took the car to a reliable mechanic in seattle the next day, and they said there was no issues and they thought the car was actually in great shape. Unfortunately no codes were logged and no codes have been logged at all! My only other weird observation about the car is that the tach seems to fall kind of quickly after acceleration... almost comically compared to my volkswagen 1.8 which has a gentle rise and fall to it. It kind of bounces up and down but the ride is smooth. Random, but i figured i'd mention it
Should she just make sure to keep the gas level above low/empty?Should a fuel pressure check be on the docket? The previous owner claimed the timing belt only had 25k on it, but he could have been lying.
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A few weeks back just after buying a new front hub assembly (so I know I have Live Axle 4x4 and 4WABS), a dude on an excavator pulled out in front of me on a blind curve on an interstate exit ramp. Almost got him, then almost got got by the car behind. The hard stop caused a rear line to blow.
When I got home, fluid was still coming out when I pushed the pedal, so the first thing I did was top off the reservoir. I was surprised it was not empty.
I finally got lines that would fit, and replaced both sides. Fast forward a few weeks and I had time to bleed the system. I hooked my vacuum pump to the right-rear wheel cylinder port, opened it and began to pump. Pump, pump, pump, and still no fluid. Tried a few times. Left the pump on, opened the port, (charged the battery), started the truck and pumped the pedal - no fluid. Also, the fluid level did not change in the master.
Master cylinder bleed? Do I need to have the ABS motor bled?
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I was sitting at a light and when it turned green I hit the gas pedal and had no response engine was idling perfect and a wrench light came on , I then shut off the truck restarted it and light was off hit the gas it came back on and it was intermittent with taking so I replaced the pedal and it is still doing it...
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Vehicle 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with 4.6L
Ok, just did a head gasket replacement. Everything is now hooked back up. Now when we try to restart the car, we get lights, but nothing from the starter. Also the OBDII code puller can't communicate with the car. Also the security light flashes very fast when you try to start.
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It is a 2003 xlt 4.6 auto. sometimes, but not too often, when you shift from park to reverse nothing happens, no go backward.... even if you mash the go pedal. if you shift to drive then back to reverse it works fine. Not predictable enough to show it in failed mode to the mechanic. Is this a common simple fix? would this issue throw a code? (No blinking or idiot lights on dash when it does this) is there something I can tell the tranny guys to look at since it is on my dime? Somthing like a shift solenoid or something...
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Experienced a chatter in the clutch pedal with the a/c on when clutch pedal is pushed in. To me it feels like the throw bearing isn't disengaging the clutch fully, plus my clutch is kind of high once full disengage unless its normal.
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Recently I have encountered another issue. Truck started up fine, at first stop light and truck was bogging down, RPMs jumping up and down slightly and sounded like it was going to die. Light turned green, gave it gas, no response. Gas pedal was dead. After restarting the truck I was able to give it some gas until I came to the next stop light and this repeated. Eventually a few moments later I got a check engine light. Drove home this way, seemed to be working fine as long as I was actually driving and not stopped.
All the parameters looked ok except for the battery, that jumped up and down in volts as the engine sounded like it was bogging down then eventually died. New batteries put in approx 2 months ago. The check engine light is showing "P0299 turbo/supercharger underboost". I have attached an image of this check engine light according to my monitor.
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2003 f250 4x4 7.3 auto
Been an ongoing problem with truck, pedal would sometimes lose all response. truck starts and idles fine but will not throttle up and all needles on the instrument cluster are at their rested position and the odometer doesn't even light up, however all the backlights still work fine.
The owner said that a 10 amp fuse on the bottom row of the fuse panel would occasionally blow, and that's when the pedal would go dead, he would replace it and keep driving till it blew again... usually about a week. I checked all fuses on the truck tonight and all are fine.
Unplugged the connector on the pedal sensor and cleaned and reinstalled and still wont throttle up. I am not sure what number the fuse was that he kept replacing but i *think* it was a cluster fuse. Is their an correlation between the cluster stopping the pedal sensor from working or vice versa?
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