Ford - Explorer :: How To Access Wiring Bundle Connecting Door And Car Body
May 24, 2016
I've had a problem with non-operational power windows on my 03 Explorer and in fiddling around I've found that there is something up with the wiring bundle between the drivers door and the car body. If I wiggle the bundle of wires I can get the windows operational again temporarily so there is some sort of short happening.
I'm not sure of the best way to access the wiring bundle though - they're surrounded in a rubber casing and the only way I can see to get access would be to cut the rubber casing to either open up a section or completely remove it. Trying to pull the casing back from either end just doesn't give enough access to the wires.
Is that my only option - cut the rubber casing?
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While pulling the bed and dropping the fuel tank to replace the sending unit, I noticed a green wire that had been cut extending out of the harness of wires that connect the rear lights. a bunch of cars were tagged in the neighbor hood and they probably cut that wire. it connects to a black and red wire in the Y at the harness. Where does it go to? Simple ground wire? No tow package on the truck either. Where it leads too?
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I need to wire up a trailer lighting connector for my 2000 Buick Century but I can't find the wiring run for it. Where would I find them to be able to tap into them?
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I am trying to add courtesy lights to the existing reflectors in the front doors of my supercab. I can't find a wiring diagram that shows where to connect the light sockets. 1999 F250 SD...
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I own a 2014 F-150 XLT 3.5 L 6 cyl Twin. Saturday afternoon I tried to start the truck once and it didn't start like it normally does. It started on the second try, but the A/C didn't work and I got a "Starting System Fault" warning on my screen. When I shut the truck off, it would not start at all. All the lights and gauges worked, just no start.
Had to tow it to Ford Dealer, where the service department had already closed for the day (of course). Today it was determined by the service department that the Body Control Module had malfunctioned. I was told that the tech tapped on the control module and the truck started. Now waiting two days for a replacement part to come in. Luckily, I'm just under 36K miles and three years. Is this a common occurrence?
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2002 7.3l Diesel 4x4 Excursion with 200K+ miles. Best truck I have ever owned and want to keep it forever!!!
One of the latches on the jack access door broke off years ago. I want to replace or repair it. I have been looking for a jack access door for years, and then saw this forum and decided to give it a try.
Needless to say I have contacted the local Ford dealerships multiple times and they say they can not get them. I have looked on craigslist without success. I have a silver (they call it Birch or something) truck with similar leather and carpet and door panels. When I can get another door or repair the latch on the ?
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2001 Ford Explorer Sport (not sport trac) 4.0l 5r55e 2wd.. Ok so I picked up a sweet deal of an explorer yesterday.
Sure enough I get her home and find out she needs both the rear body mount bushings replaced. Ok no sweat so I go to autozone...they cant find them... Ok I look in the book for replacement procedure... Nothing, To YouTube! ...nope nothing there either.
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My 1997 ford explorer has this problem that when you start the engine it runs fine then it's makes a choking sound in the throttle body area I have a video of it on YouTube here's the link :
1997 Ford Explorer Engine Trouble !!! - YouTube....
And the truck doesn't give any ob11 codes.....
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A couple of days ago I tried to open my locked car by pulling the outside handle as usual, but the car door would not unlock. I then tried the remote key, but still no access granted. Finally I used the key to open the door manually. Upon starting the car, the clock started turning around and re-set after a complete revolution of the dial. I was not able to lock the car with the door button, but the door locked with the remote key......... I figured the battery in the key fob was low on power, so I replaced it. Everything worked fine for a day, but then the same issues returned the next day. The next time I drove the car, everything was good, and its been good for two days now.
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The lower speaker grill is cracked, with one side pushed in and the other side pushed out. I would like to "iron" the crack back to a flat condition and see if it will be acceptable. If not I will need to get a new speaker grill. I looked, poked, and prodded, but cannot see how to gain access to the speaker. It doesn't appear to snap in. Is it secured from the back side?
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I have Lexus Ls460 (2008), I have paint the driver door, so they removed the door handled and reinstall it after they finished, the problem now, the keyless access from the driver door not working, I can't enter unless I push the unlock button in the remote, all other doors working fine, and can be open without pressing the unlock button. So is their any way to re-program the driver keyless door? or it could be something wrong with the handle installation?
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How do I remove the passenger side rear door panel to gain access to the bottom of the window to jam it in the closed position, 2004 Jeep GC. Window regulator cable broke, window slid down, I pushed the window up & shimmed it with a door stop to keep it up. Replacing the regulator & cable is very expensive & I don't care if the window works or not. I removed a screw from behind the inside door handle & from the grip cup (used to close the door) & pulled the top of the panel about 2 inches away from the door. It appears that something beside the snap-in clips is preventing the rest of the panel from popping off.
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I am in need of the wiring diagram for the A/C sys. I'm getting fire to the low pressure switch-but then no further.
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I am trying to wire my 07 explorer for trailer brakes. Currently it is wired with a 4 flat. I found the connector under the dash that I plugged my wire harness and brake controller into, however, I can not locate where those wires go. I've traced the wires from my 4 flat in the back of my car but cant find the brake control wire. Where this might be hiding?
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I've noticed on both rear doors, the Lower Moulding (black cover at the bottom of the door) #12 in the attached diagram (Light Blue Circle), is very much separated from the body of the car, it's like bended toward the outside, but it seems to be exactly the same on both sides, I am not sure if this is normal or mine has a defect
Both front doors are OK, not 100% perfectly aligned with the body of the car, but MUCH better than the rear doors....
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I'm in desperate need of a wiring diagram for a 1994 explorer fuel injector wiring diagram. I am working on why my injectors are not working ( another thread) and I now need this to back trace all the wires in this loop.
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None of the windows will function. Took off the door panel wiggled the wiring harness and the windows would function. Fortunately I got them all up.
Now with nicer weather it would be nice to have them working. I assume I have a broken wire leading to the master switch in the driver door. What would be the color code that is likely broken.
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I have a 1994 Ford Explorer XLT. It just died the other night. I have dim dome light, nothing else. I had the battery and alternator tested, both are ok. I get an occasional click when trying to start it. I also get an occasional beeping, the key in the ignition sound. I've checked the fuses, and can't find a broken one.
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I just bought a 99 Explorer v8 2wd to replace my aging aerostar and to tow my boat. I already knew it had this problem and a destroyed rear diff when I bought it, I figured this would be the easiest problem with just a new switch. I was wrong.
pulled the fuze
pulled the headlight switch
pulled the relays at: power dist. box, keyless entery/alarm?, the box under the dash
disconnected the harness from the GEM behind the dash and from the keyless entery/alarm
Lights only go out when I pull the park lamp relay. I know what you may be thinking. But no. Its still not gonna be that easy. The relay is not bad or being activated. Its just acting as a jumper from pin 4 to 3. So out comes the test light.
At the park lamp relay (without the relay in)on the relay module I get power at 1, 5, and 4. When I ground 2 with the test light, the headlight relay kickes on. Which seems normal to me by my assumption of how the system works. Which is that these relays are only for the RAP module to flash the lights by grounding the 2 pin. Anyway... I think I've narrowed it down.
According to the wiring diagrams, the 4 pin should only get power from the headlight switch and the GEM from a white/black stripe wire. With the relay in (only to jump the power)I have unplugged both the headlight switch and GEM, and the lights stay on and there is power at 4. I figured the white/black wire may have a short to 12v and I would just bypass it. Then today I can disconnect the battery, then reconnect it and the lights will stay off. Keep in mind all other relays are out and everything is unplugged. If I plug the headlight switch back in, cycle the switch, the lights will go on and off correctly, but will eventually stay on. Even after removing the head light switch.
Does the white/black wire go to anything other than the switch, GEM, or relay. It doesn't say so in the diagram but I can't figure out why its getting power intermittently. Still thinking it could be a short I did a wiggle test on the dash harness to try to get them to come on if off or off if on. Nothing.
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I just purchased a 2010 Barcelona Red Prius II to replace my 2008 vehicle of the same color (which is going to our daughter). We have a terrific dog who, in my 2008 car, would often step onto the metal part of the car when getting onto or off from the backseat. This has left scratches in the paint, as it lies behind the area protected by the grey plastic in both cars (i.e., where it begins to slope upward). Is there anything that can be done to protect this?
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Having issue with body squeaking ? . I am getting a squeaking sound coming from around the passenger rear door /body area of my 2010 Passat. Car has 10K miles and has been doing this since around 6K miles. Not noticeable unless going over uneven pavement or railroad tracks but it is annoying. Never had any body squeaks from a new car lite this. Have not been to the dealer with this issue yet.
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