Have a continuing problem with the front brake pad antirattle clips? Mine keep bending or rusting and prevent the pats from retracting. I live in a high salt area but still I shouldn't have all the problems I do.
View 1 RepliesI've replaced the front brakes twice now on my 2004 2.4L Manual Santa Fe.
Each time the dealership has commented on some excessive rusting of the calipers, and this last time around one had actually seized and they had to cut it off.
When I got brand new ones put on I noticed they were nice an shiny silver. Within 3 weeks there were full rusted...and still are. I don't get it??
2004 Santa Fe .... Is it possible something is dripping from somewhere that is caused this premature rusting?
I am replacing my front brakes on my 2001 f250 and I replaced the brake pad retaining clips and now I can not get the new pads in place because of the new clips. what am I doing wrong????
View 9 RepliesHave a rusty brake booster? My truck is an 07' with 55k. Brakes work great, but the booster is rusting all over. Should I replace? The lower steering shaft doesn't look so great either.... I'm trying to attach a picture, but I'm having some issues.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 f250 sd that I removed the front grill and noticed 3 of the clips that hold the lower part of the grill in (bolts on the top) are broke. I went to the local Ford dealer for the clips and was told I have to buy the whole complete grille for it. The parts breakdown doesn't show the clips sold individually from the grille.
View 2 RepliesThe front bumper keeps detaching from the clips on the side. Toyota has attempted to fix it 3 times with no success. The clips are not broken or cracked. The clips are the same on late 2012 Camry.
View 3 RepliesMy teenage son just bought his first car, a 1991 Ford Explorer XLT 2-wheel drive. I had it checked out by our mechanic before I let him shell out the money, and everything seemed OK. It's the prototypical low-mileage car (127k actual, confirmed by Carfax) owned by a little old man who took good care of it (stack of service records a foot high) and didn't drive it very much.
Earlier this week ... he'd driven it for about two weeks with no issues ... the left front brake caliper locked up on it, to the point where it heated up enormously, the pads and rotors got so hot they were discolored and some transmission fluid got blown out by the strain.
He took it to our regular mechanic, great guy who we've used for years and has worked magic with our cars, he got into it and he diagnosed the problem as ... I hope I'm explaining it right ... a little pin or piston or something in the caliper was upside down. He put it back in the right way, and everything seemed to be OK, although he said my son would probably end up needing a brake job sooner than later because of the way the pad got ground down.
FYI, master cylinder is full of fluid, our mechanic couldn't see any leaks anywhere. Although when we took the car to the mechanic, my son tried to back it up to get a better angle at getting into the service bay, and the pedal went to the floor.
Fast forward two days, and danged if the same thing didn't happen with the right front caliper, seized up although he didn't get it as hot as the other time, parked it a lot quicker. And of course it happens on Friday going into the weekend, when our mechanic isn't working, he won't be able to do anything until Monday, which leaves us scrambling trying to get everyone to work, etc., down one car.
Doing a little online homework ... which we probably should've done before my son made this purchase ... I'm seeing a lot of brake issues with '91 Explorers. I asked my mechanic if he thought there was some ABS-related problem here and he said he didn't think so.
I will say that the car apparently sat undriven for a long time, which I know can unleash a lot of issues. What might be going on here? Do we just need to go ahead and replace the calipers, any hoses, etc., as preventive maintenance?
I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport and after a brake job I noticed that while under braking at slow speed there would be a grinding sound on the front left. I replaced the brakes and wheel bearings the first time. After a while I ended up replacing the caliper itself but it still grinds. I don't notice any wheel shaking, pulling and it hasn't locked up although once I did notice a some smoke under hard braking but only once. I also don't hear any grinding while not braking.
View 5 RepliesAt my wits end on this. Left front brake is pulling ever so slightly on my '02 RWD Sport Trac. Just enough to annoy the crap out of me. Sometimes I hardly notice it. Over the past year or so I've flushed and bled the lines after replacing rear wheel cylinders, rebuilt the front calipers and replaced the rotors and pads. It's still pulling. Is there some electronic adjustment for the module that the brake lines come out of? Does the ECM control the pressures?
View 5 RepliesI first heard it start about two or three weeks ago. It started when I would brake too hard. So I took a look at the brakes and the caliper pin was rusty so I loosened it up and it was fine for a day or too. Then all of a sudden it started in the front like something was grinding. Someone told me it was the transfer case. so i put in 4 wheel drive and it goes but then you really hear the grinding. How can I tell if its the transfer case or the front end where the drive shafts go into.
View 1 RepliesSo my vehicle is 6 years old and the front edge of the roof panel is severely rusting from corner to corner. Warranty originally tried to pass it off as stone chips (lol) before I got an independent surveyor to inspect. He said there's no doubt it's a manufacturing fault and is rotting from the inside out. I went back to Hyundai with this appraisal letter to which they replied 'your anti perforation warranty only covers from the windows down so the roof isn't covered.
View 7 RepliesI've pulled the fuel lines and disconnected all the electric plugs. I don't seem to be able to remove the unit as the 4x4 drive shaft is in preventing me from full removal. Is this possible? Do I have to remove the drive shaft? Very frustrating as this should have been a 15 minute or less job. A video would be useful, but all my searches show only two wheel drive removal.
View 14 RepliesA 2002 F-150 XLT. I was lucky enough to find one that had always been garage kept and has no rust. Unfortunately, I do not have a garage at my house and I need to prevent rust in the rocker panels and cab corners, the typical rust spots. Is it as simple as buying a can of 3m undercoat and spraying the inside of the panels? How to prevent rust?
View 2 RepliesOutside door mirrors that fail to retract? Seem the one on the driver's door does okay but not the passenger door mirror. I guess the motor is bad or possibly the activation switch on the driver door.
View 3 RepliesHad a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
View 11 RepliesHad my 2004 Phaeton in to take care of some smaller interior issues under warranty. One of them was that the steering column makes a groaning noise when it is being retracted. Service advisor told me that the Phaeton technician (who is also the shop foreman - Jim Ellis VW Marietta) told him that this is common with Phaetons and there isn't a realistic fix for it. I've read the post already about the felt strip wearing down, but I'm wondering how many of you have the steering column groaning noise when it's being retracted when the car is shut off? I'm trying to decide whether to push the issue with the dealer or just live with it.
View 12 RepliesFor the past few months security light of my 2003 Alero keeps on activating preventing the engine to start or it doesn't even crank.
I always do the reset technique..."Turn ON the engine key for about 20 minutes and wait till the flashing security light become solid before starting the engine." Today when I started the car the security light comes ON and stays on for my whole 50 Kilometers travel. When I reached my destination,I tried to turn ON and OFF the engine waiting for my luck to have the solid security light to come OFF,but no luck.
Will this problem have any effect on the performance of the car? Will the car stall while I'm on the road?
Just picked up a new to me very nice 2011 F350 SWB 4X4 Lariat. While going through it and I missed this when buying it, the top of the under-hood fuse box was missing and just covered over by a makeshift cover of rubber and black duct tape.
I have ordered and received the the new fusebox cover ( what a bear to get into place ) and then figured out that the PO had broken the clips that lock it down.
I have tried to get a long zip-tie around it, not much luck, and now I get a C-clamp into there to keep it closed?
I really do not want to have to order a new fusebox and pull this one apart and rewire, that just screams electrical gremlins for the life of the truck.
I just noticed the clips in the pictures. Brand new F-250 crew cab.
There are two of them along the bottom edge of the back glass.
I can't find any reference to them in the owners manual and couldn't find anything by Googling it.
What these are and what they are for?
We have an 01 Sport Trac as a backup vehicle and it has the 3 position rotary switch on the dash for 4wd.
The transfer case engages and disengages but the front wheels seem to stay engaged with the front differential.
There are no manual hubs and I really don't think it should ALWAYS be engaged like that.
What is the probable issue and ALSO can manual hubs be installed on this truck?
Someone mentioned vacuum engagement? but I didn't see any vacuum hoses near the spindles. Didn't see any wires either other than ABS...
2009 Toyota Corolla base model
We took our vehicle to our local Goodyear because we had been hearing a noise and they discovered that the water pump had actually dislodged itself from the engine and was only being held on by the belt itself.
Also when I said the brakes weren't working they would work but since they were getting coolant on them they were making a horrible grinding noise. I took the vehicle to brake check to ensure the brakes were good because we have lifetime warranty and they assured us the brakes were fine.
It wasn't until we noticed the water pump that the Goodyear tech also showed us that the coolant had made it's way onto our braking system on the passenger side.