Ford - Explorer :: Fairly Pronounced Bump / Jerk At Highway Speeds 65 MPH
Jun 22, 2014
I have a very well maintained 1998 Ford Explorer 4.0 SOHC 4X4 with only 67,000 miles. Sometimes at highway speeds ( 65MPH ) there is a fairly pronounced bump / jerk. I will also happen occasionally when accelerating from a stop. IMHO, it's not a slip. Fluid has been flushed and is bright red. The best I can tell the RPMs are not jumping when this happens. I've all but counted out an engine misfire. There are no engine or OD light on. Where I should begin troubleshooting? I don't want to spend tons of money trying to isolate the issue but this Explorer is in exceptional condition so I want to have it fixed.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata limited with 68,000 miles on it. Once the car has been warmed up for awhile and I shift into drive after a stop, the transmission will jerk/buck fairly hard. It only does it while being put into drive and I haven't had any other issues while driving.
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A friend of mine has a '93 Explorer 4x4 with an automatic. He's getting an intermittent shake at highway speeds. It shows up every 5-10 minutes or so. Apparently the problem has been going on for a few months now. I took it for a test drive the other day, and it feels similar to driving on rumble strips. It shakes in both 2wd and 4wd, but he says it seems worse in 4wd. The vibration feels more like it's coming through the seat than the steering wheel. The vibration will go away if you take the foot off of the accelerator, or if you pull it down into Drive. He's got about 220K miles on it. The previous owner said the transmission was rebuilt about 30K miles ago, but who knows. He's had it in the shop for a couple of days, and they've checked the usual suspects - u-joints, ball joints, and the sort.
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer 4X4 two owner and only 63K miles. All service records including tranny flush. Tranny shifts fine, there are no "clunks" when shifting out of Park.The only symptom is an occasional bump or thud ( maybe more like a jolt )coming from underneath at the rear at highway speeds. Sometimes it is more pronounced than others. I don't believe RPMs change when this happens. Around town is fine and only at constant speeds above 55 which makes it difficult to recreate. I have checked for anything loose underneath ( incl spare tire ) and can't find anything.
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Ok when I turn on my explorer the rectangular portion of the headlights light up but are fairly dim. When I I turn the switch from the off position to the first position, the front and rear parking lights come on, but when I turn the switch to the final position, ie the headlights on, nothing happens. My high beams still work in both the flash position and the on position, and the bulbs and fuses are good. I'm at a loss of what to do.
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A couple months back I purchased a 2010 F150 XL with the 4.6 2V engine. It has about 112,500 miles on it as of today. The problem I am seeing is in the trans. Normally around town there is no issue other than it seems to shift from 1st to 2nd kinda quickly. That is of course you get on it harder, and then no issue at all. The real issue comes after driving for more than 30 to 40 mins. My wife and I took a little day trip that required about 45 mins of highway driving. The truck performed perfectly. Cruising at 75 to 80 there was no issue at all. When we reached our destination it was more stop and go type driving.
It was then I noticed that when pulling away from a light the trans was not shifting from 1st to 2nd smoothly, but rather with a jerk, or bump. Not horrible, but definitely noticeable. Again if I really put my foot in it it did not do it. All other shifts seem fine just 1st to 2nd. The trans temp gauge was steady in the normal range, and this was on a pretty hot day, in the 80s. Since I bought the truck used I cannot say with any certainty what servicing it has had, but judging from the condition it is in I would guess it was well taken care of.
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Shortly after we got our 08 ls460 my gf asked if I had felt a weird brake issue. She said it was like the car would "jerk" or "bump". The way she described it was more like how a car with an auto tranny will "creep" if you aren't holding the brake pedal down firmly. Yesterday I was driving the car, with her in it. Stop at a light. All is well. Brake off, gas on to leave...It felt like someone hit us on the left rear of the car. I actually stopped and looked behind us to see what the hell happened. She says "that's the feeling I was telling you about". When we got the car I had it on a lift and noticed the left rear sway bar link was broken, but there was no damage to indicate a reason. I can't find anything else on this problem anywhere and can't tell if it's brake related or trans related. Our local lexus dealer is going to check it out on wed at 9am.
Calipers were in great shape when I did the brakes with no hanging or signs of trouble. Everything works like it should 99% of the time. But damn if that 1% won't scare you.
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I'm experiencing the tug/jerk/shuddering in my 2012 Escape v6. It happens more around 70mph or 2,000-2,500rpm.
Tug/jerk/lurch/buck happens even more with OD off. Happens around 60mph or 2000rpm with OD off.
Been to the dealer several times even test drove with a mechanic that acknowledges the tug/jerk sensation. No codes or faults. Last visit the dealer showed me a print out of misfire counts and all cylinders were 0 yet on the drive home it was tug/jerk/lurching.
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2003 Explorer XLT.. All dash lights off finally... had to tape the new ABS connector into the socket on the driver's side. It kept losing signal. Now I am noticing that it is shifting a little hard, definitely not smooth, between 2nd and 3rd. It is not a hard jerk... more like a hesitation. could this be a solenoid? Should I look and feel for additional symptoms? Would it be risky to change out the transmission fluid? or use a cleaning additive?
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The other day, my Explorer gave a hard jerk while changing into 2 (maybe 3rd?) gear. Never happened before. I was under 20 MPH & had just stared it. (My speedometer works as do all the dials.) My Check Engine light came on & when I had the code pulled it read quote "P0715."Transmission Speed Sensor circuit condition. Vehicle speed above 15 MPH while transmission output shaft speed below 60 RPM. Possible cause Failed transmission speed sensor or electrical problem"
I got a Transmission Speed Sensor, (which I haven't put in yet), and was told that this would solve the problem. My question is twofold: Is there ANY chance this is a false or misread code and the problem is something else? And could ANOTHER sensor attached to the transmission be the cause? (How many sensors are on the tranny?) All I've read about this problem, say's replacing the Transmission Speed Sensor is preceded by the SPEEDOMETER quitting, but mine works fine.
The truck is a 1997 Explorer 4x4, but I don't use 4x4. In fact I've driven it without the forward drive shaft ever since I had the BW4405 Transfer Case replaced.
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Here is my new to me 03 Jetta 1.8T Wagon. This all started yesterday driving down the highway at about 65, I drove over a bump and there was what felt like a jerk. I lost the radio right away and when stepping on the accelerator it didn't seem to go over 3500rpm. I got a few miles into town taking it easy and it died as I pulled up to a stop sign. I was able to get a jump and get it running again.
This was the first jump of the day...When we popped the hood to jump it I noticed that the red wire coming off the positive battery terminal to the power block was frayed and corroded, so I cut the bad end off and stripped the wire to get a good connection. Left the car on a battery tender just to make sure the battery was charged and came back after a few hours and it started right up. Problem solved right?! Wrong...
Probably 10 miles down the road the same thing happens, a jerk or clunk sound, lost power and the call stalled out. Called family that was close by and tried to jump it again 'cause that worked the first time... Got a few miles down the road and it happened again!
Here's a picture of the gauge cluster and all the lights that lit up.
Long story short the car had basically no lights, power, for the windows/radio/turn signals/headlights etc... but was putting along at about 5 mph. I was out in the country and about 5 miles from home so I was just focused on getting it in my garage. It died again and a jump wouldn't even get it going the next time. I did some reading on my phone and it seems like the power block can be problematic, I took a picture of that because there is some obvious melted plastic on the large black wire.
I have a friend with a vag com, and he was able to come out and read the faults and then clear them and the car started right up just fine off a jump pack. We did get it home, but today I'm getting the same issues. I am trying to trace that black wire to its origin to see if there is corrosion or a loose connection there but I have no clue where else to start....
I start a new job on the 21st of July and this was meant to be my commuter as my truck gets terrible mileage...
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I got off the highway today and was at a very long light, but enough time to feel my car making slight jerking movements and i saw the car raise a little over an inch.
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Camry LE, 2.2 4 cylinder. It has about 206k miles on it… About 2 months ago I started to feel slight hesitation when I was driving…. It was so slight I wasn’t sure if it was happening or not. Recently the hesitation has become much worse… typically it will hesitate and jerk when I try to accelerate from slow speeds… this primarily happens when the car is cold. It will also jerk and hesitate when I am cruising at a fixed speed. If I step on the gas, the jerking stops.
Here are known issues and recent work I have had done… in November I replaced my complete exhaust system myself, including the downstream oxygen sensor. The cat is now bad and it will rattle. I had a mechanic replace my water pump, timing belt and all pulleys and tensioners associated with it about 2 weeks ago. The hesitation predated this problem.
About 5 years ago I replaced my own plugs and wires… when I did this; I noticed oil on one plug. This was for the cylinder closest to the driver’s side. I never noticed any issues with the performance of my car related to the oil, and I do not burn through much… perhaps a quart every 2 months. About a week ago I replaced my plugs and noticed the oil again. I do not know if this relates to my hesitation problem or not. I also filled my tank and used a container of injector cleaner, thinking perhaps a clogged injector was causing the problem.
The problem still exists.
Now I am thinking it might be one of two problems… either a defective ignition coil or a bad throttle position sensor. Yesterday I borrowed a code reader… it told me I had “long fuel trim in bank 1”.
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The boss has an 08 Sport Trac, V8, 4x4. It has the hard bump when slowing to a stop. I've read here that there is a TSB to reprogram the transmission. Called a dealer in Ft. Worth to schedule appointment. Service guy say there is no TSB. Looking for a copy or number or anything on the TSB?
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So I have 1976 f100. For the last few months I have been dealing with the famous death wobble of solid axle trucks. It seems to randomly appear at speeds over 45mph or after hitting a speed bump or cattle guard. I have tried several things like replace all the bushings in the front. Ive looked for any bars with play and fixed them right away. And I even replaced the ball joints thinking it would work. I actually let another mechanic to solve the problem, I was fine for about 3 days. I am running out of parts to check and its hard to drive it down the road.
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I just had vehicle inspected and replaced the wheel hub assemblies on the front Left and Right wheels in order to pass. Now while driving strong shaking occurs occasionally when over 60+ mph or at any time after a hit a bump in the road. have to slow down below 30 for it to stop.
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I have noticed a serious bump steer or a violent jerking action when hitting a bump in the road. Just over a year ago I replaced ball joints,tie rods, sway bar links (2nd set since cutting off original). I used MOOG components. I was shocked to see the sway bar links loose once again. Is there a certain way to tighten them or is there a better product available. Mostly stock 1999 'ploder with fire wires and scremin demon coil pack.
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I have a friend with a problem. He has a 2007 Explorer Limited that when he hits a bump the drivers side power seat moves all the way back.
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Here is the spec of my gs: 20x9.5 front(-2 camber), 20x10.5(-4 camber), I have fig camber arm (upper&lower), toe arm and trac arm installed, and alignment done, but I still get that bump steer when I hit bumps on the highway. Why it's happening?!?!? do I need to change the outer tie rod then the issue will be fixed? Or is there anything I can do to fix the problem. Since Figs Engineering does not make outer tie rod for the 3rd GS, is Moog tie rod will be ok?
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This weekend I am planning to do some major repairs to my X, she is a 2004, Limited, 4X4, 6.0 PSD with about 130K. I am planning to replace my wheel bearings, axel seals, and upper and lower ball joints. Some of these are just maintenance items that I will be replacing since I am already there and others are in hopes of eliminating the hum I am experiencing at highway speeds.
I am looking to purchase the Moog ball joints along with the wheel bearings (which I believe is my noise maker). I am going to replace the axel shaft seals because the right side was leaking when I purchased the X in August 2013. I might even change the front brake pads since they will be removed at the same time, all depends how worn they are.
What else should be replaced?
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So I had a couple of hoses replaced on my a/c system and the refirgerant replenished. On a hot day (like we've had for the past several weeks) When just tooling around town I have it set to "max cool" (recirculate) and fan on "High" it blows air cold enough to freeze water! But when I hit the highway and run at sustained highway speeds for over an hour, the fan output (force of air coming from the vents) distinctly lessens.
This is regardless of whether I have it set to max cool or just high regular. The fan simply does not blow as hard. Now I have replaced fans in both my older trucks (an 82 and an 88) so as long as a '97 isn't too much different, I know the job isn't particularly hard or expensive. I just want to hear some theories as to why this is behaving as it does.
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