Ford - Explorer :: Distinct Grinding / Chunking Noise When Punched The Gas Hard At Any Speed In Any Gear
Sep 14, 2013
The history: I have a 98 ford explorer 156k miles. V6 automatic AWD w/ 4WD. I recently took it in for a rebuild on the transmission due to 3rd gear slippage. When I picked it up (after business hours) the dashboard lit up like a christmas tree with code lights about 4wd & OD. It drove fine and I needed the vehicle so I took it and called the mechanic the next day. He advised me if they did something wrong they would fix it but he would have to run the codes to know what was going on. He told me if it drove fine it was ok to take my time about coming in. Since it was an hour drive (and time off work) I waited till the following week. They ran the codes and determined that they had forgot to "plug my 4wd in" and it was throwing every code possible for that system. Lol...
The problem: During the week I drove it I noticed a distinct grinding / chunking noise when I punched the gas hard at any speed in any gear. It happens about 85% of the time and is sometimes light noise and sometimes very bad.
I knew previously that I had bad ball joints so I figured it was that issue making a grinding noise based on the truck rocking back when I gassed it hard.
After about 2 weeks of hearing the grinding occasionally, it gets to bothering me so I go get the ball joints fixed. New ball joints and it still grinds... Now Im really worried it the transmission so I go back to the transmission mechanic yesterday (another half day off work and hour drive) and he test drives it. Tells me it is the transfer case going bad. Also tells me it wasnt like that when I picked it up because they 'test drive' every car after the work is complete (but somehow didnt notice the flashing codes on this test drive).
The question:
Is it possible while rebuilding the transmission or installing it, that they damaged the transfer case?
Are these systems connected directly to one another?
Is it possible that my 4WD being unplugged for a week or so of driving could have caused an issue in the transfer case?
Is it possible that if the 4WD was 'unplugged' the AWD may have also been disengaged and as a result caused an issue in the transfer case?
Is it likely that its just normal wear on two closely related systems and I should just suck it up and get it fixed?
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
I have an 08 explorer 4x4 with 90k. I have a front end grinding noise. Noise is loudest at lower speeds and doesn't change with braking or turning. I have read that tires could cause this. I have the spare tire and rim on the front at the moment until I can afford a new tire. My other tires are all pretty new... And the spare is a different size rim but a brand new different brand tire. I'm going to check for play in the bearings tonight and maybe swap the spare to the rear .
View 4 Replies
I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
View 2 Replies
My wife has been using her mom's 07 Accent, the mom is 90 and hasn't been incapable of using it for a while now. I did an oil change (without paying much attention) I've never seen this type of car before. Oddly the oil level seemed outrageously over full and still dirty
Then upon driving it the automatic transmission was all wacky, not engaging at idle, then it abruptly chunking into gear...
So I check the transmission fluid level and it's not on the stick. Research here let me know SP-III is what I'd need. Then while surfing a youtube vid regarding this model's transmission it hit me in the face, I'd drained the automatic transmission fluid! Went to the Kia dealer got 3 quarts dumped it in there, drained the overfilled 5.5 quarts of old and new oil rectifying my mistake, which brings me to the reason for this post.
This 2007 car only has 24,300 miles on it and I mistook the automatic transmission fluid for outrageously dirty engine oil! I swear this stuff looks like it's fulla carbon black n burnt up. My question: is it normal for the trans-fluid to have such a degraded appearance in only 25,000 miles?
View 2 Replies
Is it normal to experience a distinct clunking noise when downshifting into first gear? My dealer indicates this is normal but I don't want to risk damage to the tranny if it is not normal.
View 3 Replies
2003 Explorer XLT.. All dash lights off finally... had to tape the new ABS connector into the socket on the driver's side. It kept losing signal. Now I am noticing that it is shifting a little hard, definitely not smooth, between 2nd and 3rd. It is not a hard jerk... more like a hesitation. could this be a solenoid? Should I look and feel for additional symptoms? Would it be risky to change out the transmission fluid? or use a cleaning additive?
View 12 Replies
The other day, my Explorer gave a hard jerk while changing into 2 (maybe 3rd?) gear. Never happened before. I was under 20 MPH & had just stared it. (My speedometer works as do all the dials.) My Check Engine light came on & when I had the code pulled it read quote "P0715."Transmission Speed Sensor circuit condition. Vehicle speed above 15 MPH while transmission output shaft speed below 60 RPM. Possible cause Failed transmission speed sensor or electrical problem"
I got a Transmission Speed Sensor, (which I haven't put in yet), and was told that this would solve the problem. My question is twofold: Is there ANY chance this is a false or misread code and the problem is something else? And could ANOTHER sensor attached to the transmission be the cause? (How many sensors are on the tranny?) All I've read about this problem, say's replacing the Transmission Speed Sensor is preceded by the SPEEDOMETER quitting, but mine works fine.
The truck is a 1997 Explorer 4x4, but I don't use 4x4. In fact I've driven it without the forward drive shaft ever since I had the BW4405 Transfer Case replaced.
View 8 Replies
MK7 with 15k miles... This morning on my commute into work, I started having some clutch issues. When I would try to go into 2nd gear from 1st at any speed, it would grind when I would let out the clutch pedal. It was like it didn't fully engage and if I pushed the pedal back in and tried to get it in 2nd, it would grind. All other gears were fine. I don't drive the car hard so I don't think I torched the clutch.
Synchros? Shift Alignment if these models have that? Pressure Plate?
View 14 Replies
Tranny started acting funny recently...shifting hard into reverse at first, then last night it was like it was stuck in high gear or slipping on the way home. Limped it home and took the following codes:
P0743 TORQUE CONVERTER CIRCUIT ELECTRICAL
P0750 SHIFT SOLENOID A MALFUNCTION
P0755 SHIFT SOLENOID B MALFUNCTION
P0760 SHIFT SOLENOID C MALFUNCTION
P0765 SHIFT SOLENOID D MALFUNCTION
P0962 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID A CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0966 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID B CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0970 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID C CONTROL CIRCTUT LOW
View 1 Replies
My new 2013 Ford Explorer Limited (5000 miles) recently started making a grinding/rubbing noise with a slight to significant braking action in the middle of turns (typically left turns, at moderate to slow speed, e.g., at stoplights) when my foot is on the accelerator, not the brake. Lasts about 1 second, happens once a day or so, typically when the car is cold. The dealer was flummoxed, tried replacing the steering gear, but the same thing happened as soon as I drove out of the lot. Apparently no codes showing on brakes or ABS.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2003 Sport Trac 4wd with 299,000 miles. There is what sounds like wheel bearing noise (grinding) that was noticed after returning from a trip where I flat towed it behind my rv. I did not notice the noise the last time I drove it - before towing it about 450 miles. I have towed this vehicle for many years and miles this way - transmission and transfer case in neutral with key in on position to unlock steering. I stated this part about the towing because the noise may have gone unnoticed for many miles. About 20,000 miles ago, I changed front wheel bearings, brake calipers, upper and lower ball joints, shocks and outer tie rod ends. Also rear brake pads.
I put the vehicle on jack stands and in drive mode couldn't hear anything in either 2wd or 4wd. I held one wheel at a time so the other side would spin. After checking for wobbling wheel bearings, I took off the wheels and did a push / pull on everything - all seems good. I changed driver's side wheel bearing anyway because I thought it to be a little rough. I removed the front drive shaft and took it out on the road. Noise was still there. This makes me think front differential but before entering unknown territory (for me) is there something else I can do to narrow down the problem? At this point, I'm not even convinced it is from the front end - maybe the sound is radiating through the truck.
View 3 Replies
What the noise is when i step on the gas and it sounds like my grandpaps tracheotomy tube humming a low tune. Kinda vibrates, low tone kazoo or stinkbug sound when flying around the light in the house. only low speeds starting out, goes away at higher rpm.oh its a 05 sport trac 4x4
View 1 Replies
When I make a left turn I have a horrible grinding noise. Only when I turn left and at any speed.
View 2 Replies
Grinding feeling, and noise from rear of 02 explorer xlt. only noticed when starting out from a full stop and turning. It feels like something is grabbing like the rear brakes. I purchased this suv of a local dealer lot, because it was so clean and on a short test run seamed fine.
The day after I picked it up I took it for a shakedown cruise to see if I noticed any problems. After going up a few forward grades I noticed a disturbing rattling noise coming from mid under carriage, and got very worried. I immediately took it to a local well revered mechanic. They eventually had it for 4 days in order to diagnose it. After the dealer had done the inspection on the car and passed it, that all rotors and pads needed to be replaced, left front wheel was locked up, inspection sticker month was never punched, both front tires were bad and either the flex plate or tork converter or both needed to be replaced. I took it back to the dealer with the report and he agreed to fix it with me paying for parts. He did and the rattle was gone !
Yet now I have noticed the problem mentioned at the beginning of this piece, plus the rear wiper does not work. I think I got taken for a ride, which may become a longer ride than I thought. All I want is a reliable car. what could that rear noise be ???
View 5 Replies
My wife has a 2010 Explorer 4.0 with 46000 miles on it. Yesterday the compressor started making a grinding noise when you turn the defrost on. It's only when the clutch kicks in. I'm hoping its something simple but, I fear its not.
View 8 Replies
I have a f1ta 5 speed trans on my 4.9 and when i press the clutch in and shift into 1st gear it makes a grinding noise then goes into gear after a little patience. but if i press the clutch and wait a few seconds, then shift into 1st its fine and goes right in.... maybe syncronizers not meshing or they're worn? or could it possibly be a low fluid prob? idk, it just started happening.
View 3 Replies
The noise is somewhere between a tin rattle and a bearing grinding heard most when braking but constant under say 10 mph. We have not been able to pinpoint where exactly it is coming from but I believe it is front drivers side.(but really could be anywhere) it is not dependent on rpm, nor gear or clutch engagement, Nor hubs engaged or disengaged.
The drives side front hub, rear hubs' bearings(races and seals) have been replaced. I have the passenger side front hub to do as well, just haven't gotten to it yet and it doesn't seem bad. we are all stumped on what it is. It seems to relate to the rotating assembly though as it seems to change with speed. it almost seems like tire rub, but there is no scaring or marks of any sort anywhere for it.
Vehicle is a e99 f250 short bed ext cab. open diff if it makes any difference. My next thought after the hub is pinion bearing? Could it be something to do with abs? say the truck is 4 wheel abs but the fronts are disconnected (trying to figure out if it is 4wabs as it appears to have connectors, but the original hubs did not have the hole for the sensors. no abs light comes on, but that could be a bad bulb too)
What we have found is hubs locked or unlocked, 4wd engaged or disengaged, and happens at right around 16 mph, braking, accelerating, clutch in or out, in gear or in neutral. All 4 corners have new bearings. We have found 2 things, 1 is the track bar bushings are shot (don't think this is the source of the noise but could be wrong and i will be replacing those..once I have money in again.. 2 the passenger side leaf spring when wacked with your hand makes a different sound than the drivers side.( could be a matter of different loads, but figured worth noting)
There are 2 noises, the first is the noise we hear, the second is one that i found when doing the noise reduction (loud meaty tires you cant hear the noise in the audio without reduction) I think that that was one of the hubs, or maybe the brakes, I am unsure, but it happens at different locations in the video.
Audio : [URL] ....
View 11 Replies
I have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
View 14 Replies
My GT is very quiet when running and I like that. However, the AC system seems noisy when it is on. When I turn on the fan and heater, I hear a distinct whining sound that increases in frequency as I increase speed. When I turn the fan off, the car is whisper quiet. Also, when I turn the AC on, I can hear what sounds like coolant circulating through the system. At first it sounded like it was coming from the glove compartment and I thought it might be associated with the glove-compartment cooling feature, but I don't believe it is. The noise is not unbearable but it is noticeable and distracting to me.
Is this a noisy climate-control system or is this something unique to my car.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2005 Explorer XLT Sport 4x4 w/ 118k miles. I am having front end noise when I go over speed bumps, driveway aprons, etc.
I already replaced the Struts/Coils, and ball joints, the sway bar end links are newer. The noise is almost like a noise an old spring mattress would make.
What could the issue be?
View 2 Replies
GS350 ... The behavior is such that under hard braking, the transmission struggles to get into 1st gear from any speed to 0 MPH. Only happens under hard braking. Basically it feels like the tranny is slow in getting back to first. If im driving at 40 and brake hard to 0, once i stop, the tranny feels like its still getting into 1st for the next 2 seconds and then it hurches confirming it has reached 1st gear.
The second behavior is that when I am driving at 70 MPH or any speed, and i brake hard to reduce speed 10-15 mph, the rpms will go from its normal 70MPH Rpm ~2000 RPM and drop to idle speed around 500RPM while the car is still at 60 mph.
Link " [URL] .....
View 6 Replies
