Ford - Explorer :: Check Engine Light And Wrench Symbol On With Multiple Codes
Dec 7, 2015
I have 2007 explorer 4.0 4x4. Check engine light and wrench symbol on with codes po743 po750 po755 po po765 po966 po966 po970. Feels like it is now stuck in 3rd gear.
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2004 Explorer Eddie Bauer . Bought it like this and trying to figure why. Code is P0740 and P0743. It will go about a mile then go into Limp Mode with the Orange Wrench symbol and will die. If I pull over and restart it will go another mile before doing it again. Any Tips? Trans is 5R55S....
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna that has had a check engine light for a while. The light would come at times, and go away at others, with prolonged intervals (days, weeks, months) with or without the light.
Suddenly it started losing power, especially on hills (even a small hill). The codes I read are (I include code interpretations from internet search):
P0300: Random or multiple misfire.
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire.
P0304: Cylinder 4 misfire.
P1130: Air fuel sensor
P1150: I have not found a problem definition for this code.
Might these codes be indicative of a particular problem, or is each problem more likely a problem with its own cause?
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Any way, they come to me and tell me the tranny is slipping. I immediately notice the SES light on. I decided to check codes to see if I have any errors coming from the tranny. So far I have these codes: P0455 P1151 P0304 P0174
I dont know this vehicle at all and wanted to see if some of these items are common and/or possibly related to each other.
Heres what I have found:
P0455 - EVAP leak somewhere. Seems a lot of people have discovered a crack in the filler neck.
P1151 - Passenger O2 LEAN
P0304 - Cyl 4 misfire
P0174 - Passenger lean condition "A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time."
Looks like I need to clean the MAF, check vacuum leaks, possibly replace passenger O2. Ive also read some of these codes come from a common issue with the intake gasket. May need to replace it? How should I clean the MAF? Can I use some normal solvents?
I need to mention a tick/tap on pass side under cold idle (consistent, but not constant). Still need to test to see if it happens at other times. Right now has Seafoam in the oil and about to run it and then change the oil. Also, have ran it though the brake booster. Currently in the sit and wait process, about to go out and make the neighborhood smoke like Hiroshima.
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My 1998 Explorer with 120,000 mile on it. The check light just came on. I have had several auto part stores plug in the scan tool and there were no error codes. I'm looking for the reset button location. I am also wondering should there be something missed by the scan tools, will the light activate should there be a real problem.
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I have a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 5.0, the check engine light is on and my code reader gives P0161 and P0155 both stating that the O2 heater circuit sensor is bad. I replaced all 4 of the O2 sensors in the truck, cleared the codes but they still keep coming back. I have tried for a few days now to find something online similar to this but have had no luck. I am not sure what else to do.
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This is a Ford Escape XLT with the 3.0L V6. I get the following codes - P0316 P0300 P0136 P0305 P0306. Sometimes it runs just fine and sometimes it misses and bucks and jumps. It has been taken to a local shop and they said they found a loose ground at the computer. They said they corrected this and it should run fine. It still shows the same codes and runs like it did before they worked on it.
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Pulled into work and the truck was running fine then i got out and shut it off and went to start it again to move it 5 minutes later and it would start and misfire and chug and the wrench light came on as well as check engine and abs. I replaced the throttle body motor with the doorman part and I'm installing a new electronic pedal today as well.
The weird part is the chugging as i replaced all plugs and coil packs, plugs are champion double platinum. when all this started it was raining pretty hard out side I've cleaned all plugs with compressed air and used dietetic grease on most until i ran out. Truck is a 2006 f250 with 3v 5.4 automatic... Truck is my work truck and i am stumped on this .....could cam sensors cause the same issues? What about egr valve?
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I was installing a neutral saftey tow light under the dash of my 06 sport trac. I touched one of the two wire to ground and wrench light came on. I checked fuse #18 and it was good. WHAT Did I do?...How do I fix it?
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Today on the way home after about 45 min drive my wrench light came on but when I checked for codes on my sct I get no codes. Is that weird or common?
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It's the first real rain of the season here in Northern CA and the "wrench" light came on as I was almost to work. I just get new transmission earlier this year, so I REALLY am trying NOT to spend a gazillion more on this car, but... It's our family's main mode of transportation (kids to school/picked up - long trips - daily 30 mile commute), we would like it running.
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
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The problem that causes the check engine light to come on cannot be traced. The diagnosis is multi engine misfire. The dealer has checked and recheckedbut problem still exists. The last time my mechanic changed spark plugs he noticed oil on one of the plugs he removed in the rear side of the engine. He replaced the plug with the rest of them. Could it be that one or more of the spark plugs are sucking oil and causes the misfire? If so what could be the cause of that. Do I need a full tuneup? My dealer recommends replacing the cam shaft pulley because it's loose and this may or may not solve the problem. I'm not a mechanic but it appears as if the problem has something to do with the spark plugs sucking oil since the check engine light might go ou for a week or so and then come back on for a while. Lastly is it dangerous to keep driving the car especially on long trips?
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My daughter has a 2003 Passat Turbo. Two weeks ago it started to run like crap with a check engine light on. I pulled the codes and it said multiple misfires. My buddy owns his own shop and said bring it down. He pulled the plugs and the spark plug holes were filled with oil. He changed the valve cover gaskets and replaced the plugs. Still ran rough with low fuel pressure so he replace the fuel pump and injectors. Still runs rough, when he pulled the air intake off there was oil in it. Could this have happened do to the valve cover gasket? The codes still read misfires. He said the turbo was full of oil also. Could the turbo be bad causing it to run like crap? Can it be rebuilt? I really don't want to go to the dealer.
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I am running into some issues with my 2011 Escape 2.5L. I am pulling a total of 7 codes. Two codes keep repeating, which those are P0455 and P0457. And I am also getting a C1963. Accompanying the engine codes, my HUD is displaying "Check Fuel Inlet" when I first turn the vehicle on.
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I have a 2011 I4 camry. I recently ran out of gas and decided to keep trying to see maybe if the car would turn on. After all that i gave up cranking the car on and decided to push to a gas station. After putting in gas (93 octane) I realized i have my check engine light on and another light which depicts a car with 2 swiggly lines.What that light means but its to the right of of lcd display which shows your mileage. I am taking the car tomorrow to the dealership but I was wondering is there any way i can check the codes without an obd scanner (the thing that checks for codes). Do you think I ruined my engine after trying to start the car multiple times without gas?
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My check engine came on last night and stayed on during multiple restarts and also again this morning when I started it. I thought I was ready to bring to the dealer Monday morning but the light "magically" went off while driving today. What could cause this? And finally would there be a code stored that the dealer could check?
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I have a 1996 chevy caprice wit a 4.3 v-8 one day i was driving and the car started acting funny and the check engine lite started blinking i had the codes read and 0p300 came up saying multiple misfire so I changed the plug wires they all connect in the front around the harmonic balancer well that didn't work its still saying multi misfire so I took a spark plug wire off of the electric dis block and no change in motor now I don't know what to do...
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I have my excursion sitting in a parking lot near my house. The ex will not start, it turns over but not starting? I hooked up my SCT tuner to read the codes, and it is pulling nothing. The Check engine, check gauges and battery light is on. Would a different scanner read the codes?
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i have a continuous Check Engine light in my 2008 ford explorer. Dealer recommend replacing a sensor but I do not know which sensor to change.
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So I have been having some troubles with my 2003 F150 4.6L ... Truck has been running rough and the check engine light was on so I decided to get the codes read and I got back P0302 and P0304, which from what I understand is a misfire on cylinders 3 & 4. At the same time I got Ford to do a little diagnostic and this is what they wrote for me:
"The connector for the number 2 coil is broken and will not stay plugged on to the coil and the number 2 coil is not working / replaced the wire for the coil still running rough removed the coil and plug. the plug was very badly fuel soaked started the vehicle to see if there was spark at the plug. OK. Suspect either a injector issue or a compression issue cleaned the plug seems better. "
So of course they quoted me for the works. They say I should replace the coils, plugs, and injectors??? I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I could change these things myself since I am on a budget. One tech told me is that the plugs can seize in these engines often and could scrap the whole thing??? Seems a little weird. If that happens though what could I do?
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