Ford - Explorer :: Automatic Transmission Quit / Lost Power Going Up A Hill
May 1, 2015
We have a 02 explorer with the 5R55W transmission. We lost power starting up a hill. Now it has nothing. No reverse, forward. Does not even think about moving an inch.
We can not find the dip-stick. Looks like a nut on top of the transmission that you stick a finger into or makeshift dipstick to see if it is topped up. It probably has a cooler on it.
Never noticed a loss of fluid. Nothing at the bottom of the hill...
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I had an 02 Explorer for years now and absolutely love it. It has almost 170,000 miles on it and is definitely showing its age. There's alot of rust underneath and ive been replacing things as they break. For about a year now I've been dealing with the transmission leaking fluid. This vehicle doesn't have a transmission dipstick and has to be filled from underneath. When I have the transmission full of fluid it works perfectly until recently. Now, when I go up a hill the transmission goes into an almost neutral state.
The R.P.M's will go up past 4000 and I'll have to stop. It doesn't misfire or bog down, just acts as if the tranny is in neutral. Sometimes I just sit there for a minute and its fine, other times I haven't been as lucky. In one instance I had to sit there for about 20 minutes, in another I disconnected the battery to reset everything, and on another instance it would stall out the moment I put it in gear. I know it's a little low on fluid and will be getting it filled again soon. I plan on possibly getting a new transmission this winter, but gotta keep it going till then.
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I have a 99 Ford Explorer XLT, V6, 4X4 with the 5R55E automatic transmission. I'm getting ready to remove / replace the transmission. Do you have to lower the back of the engine any for the transmission to clear the torque converter? Any tricks to getting torque converter off the flywheel?
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0 4x4 with 130,00 miles that started with the transmission periodically going into neutral while driving and sometimes while stopped at an intersection. Engine running, but no reverse or drive gear. After shutting down engine and restarting, I can drive again only to have it happen soon again. I have changed rear speed sensor, throttle position sensor, dropped the tranny pan and changed the ATF as well as tranny filter.
I also attempted to replace the transmission range sensor but was unable to remove the nut that holds the shift level onto the sensor. Sent 5 hours one day.... nut will not budge. Now the shifter inside the truck does not feel the same when shifting through the gears. Now the transmission will only engage in reverse but the truck will not move. If I wait 30 sec or so the truck will move in reverse. No engagement in drive, 3rd, 2nd, or 1st.
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I'm having trouble with the automatic transmission in my 04' Elantra, it acted like the speed sensor was failing, but later the same day it lost all gears, forward and reverse. after turning the car off and sitting a while I started it back up and had gears again, but the trany is making noise. Fluid level is ok.
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My 2002 Explorer LTD with 155K miles on it is in terrific shape except for a worsening rough shift into overdrive (automatic transmission) and a clunk which occurs with increasing frequency when I shift into reverse. I would love to keep the car but don't want to spend the money for a new or rebuilt transmission. There is no access for owner approach to transmission fluid - I have already looked in the manual. I would need to take the truck to a garage as I cannot do repairs myself.
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I have a 1999 Explorer. 5.0 V8 auto AWD. Motor bogs down when going up hill. Smoke coming from under vehicle. Recently tuned up & oil change. 157,000 miles. No warning lights. Not over heating. No burnt smell from oil or trans fluid. No leaks from motor or trans. Oil & trans fluid look clean. I have a little mechanical knowledge. Someone said it could possibly be a bad catalytic converter.
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My daughter was driving down the interstate doing 70 mph when her explorer lost power and died. It will not re-start. Checked the DTCs and there were no codes. This same thing happened about a year ago and she had it towed to the dealership. After 3 weeks, they called and said to come pick it up. They said they had no idea what had been wrong but it was running. They replaced crank sensor, cam sensor, cleaned and checked several others an it still would not start. Then one day they sent one of the flunkies to move it back into the shop and he started it up and drove it in! They checked several more things but claimed they really didn't know what was wrong or why it started running. Now it has done it again. I suspect it may be a faulty ECM.
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My 2003 Ford Explorer Power Door Unlock on the drivers side quit working. I can unlock the doors using the fob, unlock them from the passenger side or unlock it manually. I have replaced the Power Door Lock switch but still have the same problem.
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Last year I did some major work on my 02. Painted it, new injectors, 38R, and once it was back together, the transmission went south in a month. Got a Ford reman HD4R100. Shortly after the install, when in reverse, the torque convertor would lock up when you stepped on the throttle. As soon as you let off the throttle, it would disengage. Thinking it was a tranny issue, got another one from Ford. This one has been in the truck for about 9 months. And it seemed fine until about a month ago. It started doing the torque convertor lockup thing in reverse like the last one, but not as often.
Then last weekend it did it every time I put it in reverse. Then yesterday, while pulling away from a traffic light, there was a loud bang, and lost power in the transmission. Once stopped, I found out it has manual 1st and 2nd, but nothing else. No drive, overdrive, or reverse. I personally believe something electrical led to these issues, and ultimately, the transmission failure. I know the truck is not stock, but I do not run it hard very much. When it went bang yesterday, I was not being hard on it. Where to look at what is causing this?
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I own a 2009 Nissan Sentra with a CVT transmission. It has about 65,000 miles. During the warmer months, my wife and I have both experienced times while driving (usually for more than 2 hours) when the engine would lose power while going up a hill. After doing some reading we learned that this was common in Sentra and Rogue models with CVT transmissions. Apparently the transmission fluid heats up, boils, and foams. The foam triggers a sensor that cuts power to the engine. Once the fluid's temperature decreases the car performs as it should.
We have visited the dealership and even have a case number with Nissan consumer affairs. After many appointments and phone calls, the only action taken was decreasing the level of transmission fluid. This action was approved by Nissan. This has worked a little but the issue still occasionally persists. For the record, neither my wife nor I are expecting this to drive like a race car. We'd just like it work correctly. I know Nissan has extended the warranty on this and many CVT transmissions.
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Well I've been towing for almost 150,000 miles with a 2012 6.7 Lariat 4 wheel drive. Things have been going pretty well with the truck. I noticed some sluggish and indecisive type shifts early on but now I'm worried. I depend on this truck for pulling a horse trailer all over the country and Canada. Just recently I've been getting a hard shift or a thump or a clunk when shifting up or down in to second gear. I'm at about 152,000 miles and did a hot flush with LV ATF at about 148,000 miles. Should I worry or keep running?
I have a 97' PSD I'm thinking of giving a nice paint job and a flat bed but am reluctant to do so due to financial concerns and the fact that some folks may not want to see me pull up in an old truck no matter how nice it looks. My tranny temps have been stating under 200F and I really keep an eye on the temps when running up and down the hills while towing. The trailer is a 35' Gooseneck with a max GVRW or 14,000 pounds. Should I wait for the tranny to grenade and then drop in a built tranny and if so who's building these tranny's stronger than stock? Long time no see but this site has always been my go to for all my Ford truck questions, upgrades, etc.
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I have an 04 F350 automatic blowing fluid out under load only. Had it serviced the first time it happened two weeks ago. They found no issues and replaced the fluid and filters. Drove truck about fifty miles, no load, no problems. Took her out this morning in tow/haul mode with load and made it about 20 minutes before I noticed it warming up. Pulled over and it is blowing fluid out the right side of the pan.
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2000 7.3 automatic suddenly went out of gear going about 30 mph wont go back into any gear, linkage checks fine, no slippage before problem, fluid seems normal good level not burnt no metal.
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I own a 2006 B6 and I'm just ticking down the list of common repairs... The last series started with boost lost anytime the car was pulling a steep hill or high acceleration. Eventually I lost boost altogether. I replaced the PCV valve and got back a little power but still no boost. This last weekend I replaced the DV valve. The old one was visually shot. The new one is the latest revision of that valve. Now, the boost will kick in, and cut out, kick in, cut out, in a rapid cycle during any acceleration. I double checked that it was installed and tightened (stripped the bolt heads) and reseated the electrical connection. I'm still getting the rough on/off of the turbo. If I slowly increase the acceleration it will act better, but that isn't a sure thing. I love the car, but I'm about to reach the point of pushing it off a cliff.
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I have a 2003 Ford Explorer with around 93,000 miles on it. I got the oil changed just before going on a long trip. It had been about 4,000 miles since the last oil change. My trip was about 3.5 hours in each direction with mostly highway driving where I was cruising at around 65-70 MPH but some long steep hills mixed in as well. On the way to my destination after cresting over one of these long steep hills, and going about 60 MPH while heading up the hill, white smoke started billowing out of the exhaust every time I hit the gas pedal.
I pulled over and white smoke was creeping off the muffler as well. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but opened up the hood anyways, and no smoke or anything in there. I let the car sit for about 5 minutes until the smoke stopped creeping off the muffler then drove the rest of the 30 minutes or so to my destination with no more problems.
On the return trip, the same thing happened (different hill) with about the same timeline. I was about 30 minutes out from home, had just crested over a long steep hill going around 60 MPH and the white smoke started coming out again every time I hit the gas. Pulled over again, waited for the smoke to dissipate and for no more to be coming off the muffler and finished my drive home with no problems.
I've only owned the car for about 6 months. I haven't encountered anything like this up to this point. And in the month or so driving it since the trip and incident, I have not seen any white smoke . There are no warning lights on, the temperature gauge looks completely normal. From what I have read online it seems like coolant would be causing this white smoke, but I can't figure out why it only happened on these two occasions. What is going on or what I should do?
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I have a 99 explorer that stops blowing air when I get on the gas or climbing a hill. The motor is still blowing but it stops air coming out the vents. What could be causing this? It works fine other than that.
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So yesterday I was driving from a stoplight and for the second time in as many links, the car did something I've never experience and any of my vehicles before. It rev'd through 1-2-3 and on the 3-4 shift the rpms just held at 3k and it almost seemed the engine had lost all power or maybe I guess come to think of it seemed like the transmission was slipping. I know it had the TSB for the hard shifts which was for 1-2 and 3-4 if I remember right. I'm going to take it to the dealer but I know them by now that if I give them a general problem that isn't happening at that moment, then they'll say everything is working properly. Like I mentioned before, this is only the second time over the life of the car (45k miles) that this has been experience when I was in the car.
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I have a 2004 Elantra with about 132,000 miles. I was out driving today and the transmission started to shift rough. Than at a stop light the car would not accelerate. I had to put the car into low or 2nd gear to get the car to move. Than the radio started to cut in and out and than the gauges on the dash started to turn on and off. When I arrived home and parked and turned the car off, it won't start back up.
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I was driving up hill last night and the van lost power competely. The car did not die out but I could not get it to move. After it cooled down for 20 minutes or so I was able to move it another half block up hill out of the intersection I was obstructing. It then failed again. I was able to shift it into 'L' to move it to the side. I had it towed home. This morning the battery is not completely dead but the car won't turn over. Sound like the transmission?
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I have a 1990 class C motorhome with a 460ci engine an a E4OD transmission, It shift pretty smooth, but it goes on overdrive mostly only when I go up a hill, and down shift as soon as I reach the top when it should be the opposite. I bright it to a tranny shop, they change fluid and filter and make road test on a plane road and find no problem.
The way I see it is that it shift 1-2-3 then I hit the OD button and it goes on 4, then, if I'm going up a little or asking for more power it upshift another gear(5th ) and when I coming back on a plane road it downshift to the 4th gear until I need more power. It doesn't look normal to me.
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