Ford - Explorer :: After Neutral Safety Switch Replacement Shift Alignment?
Jan 29, 2013
Daughters explorer sport trac, needed a neutral safety switch and a fuse ( no reverse lights),, I have replaced both but now the shifter doesn't line up right.
P is now reverse, and cant get all the way over to 1 with out holding it...
the two marks in the switch line up for neutral.... and switch is keyed to shaft...
how do i now re align this so shift indicator and transmission are on the same page again??
I am guessing move tranny arm all the way to the rear of the truck position and put shifter in P....then put cable back on arm.... but doesn't seem to work ....
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Looking on replacing my Neutral Safety Switch. Shifting the Transmission began to get very hard to do, like the linkage was binding up. Pulled center console, latching mechanism unlocks when i apply the brake, was able to shift with much difficulty into reverse and now i can only get it to shift between reverse and neutral. It is all cable from shifter to transmission and the cable seems fine, no binding there that I can see. Got the nut off the trans linkage but can't get the shift arm to come off the rod and removed the 2 bolts on the safety switch but nothing wants to come apart. Just rusted on? Don't want to use the BFH and break anything.
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I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
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How do I remove the neutral safety switch? I bought a replacement and am having trouble removing it.
After shifting into neutral, I disconnected the connector, then unbolted the two screws. Now I can't get the little white ring that connects the lever coming from the transmission to the actual switch. I have tried prying it off with a screwdriver, spraying a little PB Blaster to lubricate it a little. Nothing will get it off it seems.
I'm leaving to go back up to school tomorrow afternoon, and I need to have this fixed before I leave.
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1989 F250, C6
Random starting problems. Starter relay did not fix it.
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I have the 4r100 transmission how do I bypass the safety switch? Also what are your thoughts on starting the engine with the transmission out? I know to bolt the spacer plate to the engine.
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I can't seem to find the location of the neutral safety switch on my 2005 accent 5 speed manual. I removed the air filter box and looked all around the top, bottom, and sides of the tranny. I have the new part so I do know what it looks like.
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I have recurring P0705 trouble codes. Lexus dealer checked the N/S switch itself and said it's good. I checked all the wiring, found an open, shouted Eureka! Ran a new wire, now all wires test good, but still getting the code. SO - I think I may need to adjust the position of the switch, since the trouble code is for a range malfunction. BUT - I can't find a procedure anywhere.
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I have a '05 santa fe, auto, 2.7L, 4WD...sometimes I have to jiggle the shifter to get the engine to crank...would this be the neutral safety switch? or is there something in the shifter housing that could be causing this?
Maybe a minor adjustment... Just a slight movement of the shifter and it fires right up... If it is the neutral safety switch..where is it located? on the trans?
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I shimmed my prius this weekend to remove about 0.44 degrees of positive out of 0.60 theoretically bringing total toe down to .16.
The shims add about 3.8 mm between the hub and the suspension. The bolts are M10s I believe with 12 mm heads. There are 4 bolts per hub. I often take off ramps at a pretty good clip rather than braking when going from one freeway to another. The 4 bolts already seem like they wouldn't be enough to hold the hubs on.
When adding the shims, it moves the hub further away resulting in a little more torque at the mating surface on the opposite side of steering. Also, the bolts just barely make it to the last thread.
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I have a 1999 ford ranger and I believe my Clutch safety starting switch is going out. Some times I push my clutch in and truck starts fine other times it will not turn over so I stomp clutch and then it starts. My question is, is there any way to bypass this switch?
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I have an 88 ranger 2.9 manual trans. The clutch safety switch wires melted (red with light blue) 2 come off the ignition, I traced the one to the clutch switch and replaced. My problem is my book says the other goes to " electronic shift control module", I can't find this module and I can't seem to chase wire as it gets lost in wire loom.
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2002, F250, 5.4L, ZF-6 trans.
Ok...today by accident turned the key with the truck in gear and clutch not depressed...much to my surprise the truck tried to start and lurched forward.
Is this a sign of a failing clutch safety switch or Could it be an ignition switch problem? Anything else that I am not thinking of?
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I need to replace the safety switch on my 1995 S10 w/ a 5 speed manual tranny. It doesn't seem to want to come out. Looking at the new one, I would guess that it MAYBE fits in sort of like the holes on a wall hanger. You know, sort of a pear shaped hole that a screw or something fits into and slides down to make it stay. Am I right? And if so, how hard is it to get out/replace? I don't really want to destroy the old one, but that is looking more and more like how it's going to happen.
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What could be the cause of this? Have replaced the park/neutral safety switch and the Toyota Mechanic found loose wires on the Master Plug-In and repaired the Ignitor Connector. The computer generates no code to identify a problem. Problem still not fixed. I eventually get it to start but do not know why. Fuel pump replaced a couple of years ago.
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Last night while driving home in the rain, I cleared the windows with the wipers, and lowered the rear passenger window so that my dog could have air. I then proceeded to drive. I then lowered and raised my drivers side window and the passenger window to clear them of rain drops so that I would have an unobstructed view. I turned off the wipers, as it was only misting and then closed the rear passenger window. About 3 minutes later, I wanted to wipe off the windshield again, however, the wipers would not come on. I then played with the window buttons trying to open them, but they would not open, and the interior lights would not come on. However, the doors would lock and unlock. I thought for a second, maybe the anti-theft system engaged somehow. By this time I was sitting at an intersection - at a red light, waiting to turn left. I shut the car off, to see if something in the vehicles' computer system needed to reset itself. I waited a couple of seconds, and then restarted the engine.
By this time, the light had turned green, however, I could not get the car to switch from park to drive. I tried numerous times, but to no avail, the vehicle was stuck in park. To make a long story short, a while later after the police came, one of the officers googled the problem for a 2002 Ford F-150 truck on his car computer. He found that the vechicle had to be turned off to where the dashboard lights were on, foot pressed on the brake, and only then could the gear be switched into neutral in order to be started. Only after going through this routine was I able to shift the vehicle into drive. This is the first time this problem has ever occured. The vehicle has138,500 miles.
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I had my right front tire replaced due to a road nail. Now when I went for my 10,000 mile service they told me that I need a wheel alignment. My friend told me that whenever you replace a tire you always have to do a wheel alignment. Is t true?
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I just replaced front shocks and got the car aligned. Now I feel the difference in front to rear and want to change the rear shocks out too. I seem to remember someone suggesting under normal circumstances the Prius rear setup never gets aligned. Is this true?
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This may be an old question: is it beneficial to shift into neutral while coming to a stop in an automatic transmission? But, my new Ford Fiesta has a PowerShift 6-speed transmission that behaves differently from a standard automatic. According to Ford, it's "like two 3-speed manual transmissions put together, with the dual clutch and shifting components controlled electronically."
Since the PowerShift is really a computer-controlled manual transmission (without a fluid torque converter), it's actually in neutral when I'm stopped and the shifter is in Drive position. I can feel it disengage as I come to a stop. However if I try coasting to a stop uphill, the engine still pulls the car upward at low speed without my foot on the accelerator. So the computer has to judge when to activate the clutch.
The issue is, I tend to apply the brakes lighter than average and decrease speed at a slower rate to come to a stop. So I think I might be confusing the computer, working against the engine before it wants to disengage the clutch, whereas most people would come to a stop more abruptly and the shifting action would have no problem. This is why I shift into neutral early in my slow-down phase, so the engine doesn't have a chance of pushing the brakes.
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I have a '99 E350 Ford van, V10, with 300K that runs like a charm until I slow down to stop. It begins to surge which will stop when I shift to neutral. I went to the local parts store and put it on their code reader. It only read 'left bank lean'. Nothing else.
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I had been waiting to fix my explorer for a long time. The "previous owner" I will call him knowingly sold me a vehicle with a bad tranny without disclosing it... long story. To get to the important part, it had the common 2/3 shift flare. I dropped the pan, filter, and valve body, making sure to use a template and put the bolts where they go. Then i took the valve body to the work bench and replaced the gasket, which was surprisingly not blown. After more looking around, I realized the previous owner had already had the fix done. I tightened the EPC 1/4 turn and reassembled the tranny. When i started it, it was stuck in first gear. PRN21 all went forward (park just revved a bit due to the park lockout.)
I tore it back apart and found that the plunger on the side of the valve body was stuck in the 1st gear position. I pushed it back out and cleaned it up so it moved freely. Then I reassembled the tranny using new fluid again.
After that the tranny was stuck in neutral. I dropped the pan again today, and tightened the valve body bolts and made sure my solenoids are tight. Filled it back up slowly with the engine running. It shifted into gear for a second (tried to go forward while it was in reverse though). Then it was again stuck in neutral in all the gears again.
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