Ford - Explorer :: AC Working Intermittently Under Acceleration / Worse In Stop And Go Traffic
Jun 12, 2015
My AC is working intermittently, best under acceleration, horrible in stop & go traffic. The dealership told me I need a new compressor clutch but the written estimate was to replace the whole compressor assembly. Replacing just the clutch isn't too bad, is it? I'm pretty handy and do a lot of my own work but I typically avoid the AC system. Replacing just the clutch doesn't involve draining the coolant or anything, right?
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I have a Hyundai Santa fe 2004 6cyl 2.7 L , AWD. I am having problem of slow acceleration which is worse after a stop sign or red light. Sometimes while taking turns I feels like that I will not move and I was lucky to be not hit by a Car coming from opposite direction while taking a left turn today.
The Truck’s exhaust pipe broke recently and a auto garage welded it. But I am facing the above problem immediately after the repair of exhaust pipe. If I put more pressure on gas pedal then a mal function indicator comes and today I took it to another mechanic and he gets the error code of P0303 –engine misfire and wants to charge me ~ $600 $ to replace spark plugs and wires. The malfunction indicator goes off also while I am driving and can comes back after a while or a day. With the indicator on, the car drives erratic (minor jolts ) for few meters and then its fine. Since when I am driving on highways then I can go higher speeds without any problem. Is it still misfire issue???
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I have a 2001 f250 sd 4x4. For the past year it will blow cold air unless I'm in stop and go traffic then it blows warm air. Engin temp thermostat and water pump are fine. Yesterday it quit blowing all together and it really wouldn't bother me but where I live the morning temps and rainy days are causing the windshield to fog up and my defroster not even working. Where can I start to get this fixed.
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I have a 2000 explorer and the a/c stopped working. I recharged the a/c because freon was low per the gauges and then the compressor would kick on, then the pressure would drop in a matter of seconds and it kicked off again. Then the pressure goes back up, compressor kicks on again and this just keeps doing this over and over but never gets cold. What's wrong? My a/c worked last year.
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The problem starts after about 5-10 mins of start up and normal driving. First signs usually come leaving a stop light or stop sign. Hesitation, jerkiness, rough acceleration. It's usually slight, just enough to feel it. Soon it really shows up while keeping the truck at a steady speed, say 40 for example.
I finally heard what I would describe as a puffing air sound and figured vacuum leak.. finally! Nope.. it's coming from the rear underneath of the vehicle. I can't hear it in the engine, or the tail pipe.
2002 Ford Explorer xls 4.0 125k miles, I've replaced the air filter, egr valve, pcv valve, cleaned the maf and covered about every hose I can reach with carb cleaner checking for a vacuum leak. I've yet to try some of the other things due to hearing that puffing sound.
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My 2012 Camry 2.4L is sometimes dangerously slow when accelerating from a stop. Totally intermittent. I can put my foot in the gas pedal and the car takes its sweet time getting up to speed. Almost like trying to start in 2nd gear in a standard transmission vehicle. I've had the torque converter software patch.
To be honest with you, this is a huge safety issue. Not sure I can trust my car to accelerate. My car has 44k miles and I've done all the scheduled maintenance and run only top tier fuel.
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I have a 2000 Explorer with the 4.0 OHV. 104,000 miles. Has always ran great. The last few days it has had a sputtering almost knocking sound that gets worse when put into gear or the ac turned on. I changed the oil and checked all fluids. Looks good. Only thing I had done was fill it up this past monday after a storm. My mother in law told me afterwards that the particular station always has complaints after rain and has leaks in their tanks. I'm assuming I may have gotten water into the system. Would this cause these problems? And is it ok to drive it out or should it be flushed. I've added a can of Iso Heat and am now down to 1/4 tank. I had planned on getting a little lower on fuel and filling up with Premium. I've never had a problem like this before so not really sure the best way to track the problem or fix it. Or it may be something else all together.
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Have a F350 V10 super duty the power windows intermittently stop working along with the radio. I have replaced the acc relay key switch under a recommendation. I looked over the fuse panel under the dash for corrosion. Still can't find problem. It was worse this past summer than this winter. When it goes bad after driving 30 miles it will start working.
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For the last couple of weeks I've been hearing a weird noise towards the rear end of my car when I accelerate, seems like it's worse when I'm going uphill, sounds like a box of shoes moving freely in the trunk of the car. At first I thought it was something in my the trunk but I have nothing loose, the spare wheel and all attachment are pretty well secure. The only thing that I can think of is that the dealership installed the F Sport exhaust to it, but not sure if that should be making that type of sound. Sound is pretty low but it still manages to upset me, specially since my car has less than 3k miles on it.
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I've been having some troubles with my 2009 Hyundai sonata GLS 100k 4 cyl. Its quite an odd issue I've been having with my power windows. It seems that the switches or relays stop working intermittently however it does it in an odd fashion. First the drivers master switch works for all but sometimes not for the front passenger up nor down . The front passenger switch/relay does not work at times, up nor down, the rear passenger does not go up at all and the rear driver switch does not go down at all. I can't for the life of me fathom what might actually be the issue other than, all the switches breaking at the same time(due to power surge ?) Another theory I have is that is that my passengers and I sometimes place cellphones in the door handle and may have somehow damaged the switch ? I know these are some whacky conjectures but that I can think of.
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I've got a 2011 Sonata Limited that I just purchased used, 20,000 miles. Everything is great besides the fact that the all the controls on the left hand side of the steering wheel will intermittently stop working. I brought it to Hyundai the first time I noticed and they replaced all the buttons but the issue persisted. So, I just picked it up today from them replacing the entire clockspring and the wiring behind it now. It worked great all day until just as I was pulling into my driveway and it happened again.
They basically told me this would 100% fix it because it's the only other thing that could be the issue. However, my gut keeps telling me it could be an issue with the radio itself. I've read a bunch of stuff on here about the issue but there was only a few responses of fixes (all of which I have tried).
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Hesitation while driving mostly in city traffic.....
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My 2000 Ford Ranger over heats when I stop at traffic lights. I took it to Tire Kingdom and hey suggested a new thermostat and a radiator flush. I did both and it continues. What is the issue?
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OK, 05 v8 4.6l
I am having very random overheating for last few weeks. Started randomly one day in stop n go traffic. Thought maybe struck tstat so replaced it. Same thing...replaced water pump, fan clutch, serpentine belt, coolant reservoir cap since then. During all those replacement I flushed system with garden hose. Burped system to best of my knowledge. Still overheats randomly. Seems to happen every day now at hot times (100*). I drive around all day for work so been watching it closely. Temp gun runs 190* on tstat housing at operating temp. When it was rising up in temp I pulled over and temp gun read 200 ish.... it is in fact getting hot. Any freaking clues? Oh and have pressure tested good....combustion test good...
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I have a 2003 Taurus that runs fine until I stop at a traffic light and then has a misfire about every 5-10 seconds. This diminishes greatly if I put the car in neutral or park while I wait. I have had the spark plugs changed twice. It seems to be more severe in hotter weather. When I was visiting LA, I noticed my cab driver who was driving a 2003 Taurus always put his car into neutral at stop lights as well and when I asked him it turned out that he and all of the other 2003s in their fleet had the same problem. What is wrong?
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Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
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My car has an exhaust smell coming into the car; seems to be from in front of the passenger side of the engine. Mechanic said it was from leaking valve cover gaskets, which have been replaced about a month ago. The smell is coming back and getting stronger. When I am in stop/go traffic, I have to open the windows. What else could this be caused by?
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On a 1998 F150 2 wheel drive 4.6 250k, the front brakes will drag under a specific set of circumstances; only in prolonged stop and go traffic with hot ambient temps. Rotors, calipers, rear shoes, drums, fluid, bearings, seals have all been replaced. This occurs only a couple of times a year, otherwise the brakes work perfectly. It starts out as a slight shimmy that worsens until you can smell the pads cooking and the wheels are hotter than hell. The truck will hardly move at times. The rears are normal. After the truck cools for hours, no symptoms.
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I have a 2013 Azera. Occasionally, when I accelerate getting into traffic on a highway, the vehicle seems to die down. After I take my foot off the accelerator and accelerate again, the car acts normally. This has occurred several times. I brought it into the dealer twice and they could not find any problem. This is a serious issue, sinc the car could be rammed by oncoming traffic.
I looked at other problem forums, and found a similar problem listed for a Genesis. See quote here: I've just bought my new 2012 Genesis sedan two months ago and have a very annoying hesitation problem when I'm going a under 5 miles/hour then try to accelerate. Nothing happens when I step on the gas for 1-2 seconds. Almost got me into an accident last week trying to pull into traffic. Took it to the dealer and they claim they could not duplicate the problem. That night, leaving the dealer it happened twice!
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I have a 2012 GTI Autobahn, w/automatic, bought it w 7k miles on it and it was chipped. It runs great and is crazy fast. But, it has a lag in acceleration SOMETIMES when moving and coasting slow in traffic and then pouncing on the accelerator to change lanes, the accelerator is flat like its not getting fuel. It wouldn't do it when the dealer mechanic drove it.
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Well I believe my small fan has stopped working because if I run my ac in stop and go traffic my big fan runs harder than I've ever heard and when examining under hood small fan doesn't move. I have been told by local vw dealer and local euro tech and both say big fan could be bad if small one is and I may have to replace both. Vw quoted 800 for both and local eurotech is around 650. I was considering just purchasing the aftermarket one from ecs tuning for 190 and try to swap it out myself w some ramps. Just checked eBay and found this. Should it be comparable? Just checking before I order.
[URL].........................
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