When I get up in the mornings and make my 10 mile commute to work my AC is icebox cold, I could hang meat in there. But after a long long day (about 9 - 10 hours) when I get back in my 96 Explorer to head out -- driving about 30 miles -- the AC never gets cool. It feels like it's just a vent siphoning in the hot air from the outside. This has been going on for about the past week. What could be causing this issue?
View 13 RepliesThis makes the third Auto Zone thermostat that has failed in less than 75k miles. Who makes a good thermostat? The first was bad out of the box. Who's have you had good luck with?
2000 Explorer XLT 5.0 155k mi
I put a new battery in my 2006 ford explorer. My Miles To Empty indicator tells me I have more gas than I actually do. How do I Reset this Indicator?
View 1 RepliesThere was a time Ford when used a nylon toothed timing chain gear on the camshaft. Over time this got brittle and started to break into pieces. The rule of thumb at our household was to change these at about 100k miles.
I think that was a "302" thing and all "5.0" engines have all metal gears? I have no reason to open up our '99 Explorer's 5.0 with 180,000 miles. But, I will change the timing chain if it should be done.
The other day my 2002 Sport Trac with 4.0 started to miss badly. It has only about 90,000 miles on it. It started to do this suddenly from one turn of the key to the next. It also makes a weird noice that sounds as if its coming from the intake area that can be described as a "chuffing" sound thats in time with the engine. The intake also gets very warm to the touch. We have since stopped driving it. I sprayed carb cleaner all around where the intake meets the head with no change in rpm. I also checked the plastic hose that goes behind the engine to the pcv valve and its ok.
View 10 RepliesMy 2000 Ford Explorer O/D off light starts flashing after driving it after 3-8 miles from starting out. After shutting it off, it resets itself. It seems to stick between 2nd and 3rd (automatic trans) because I get a surge on my RPMs. I took it to two places, spent $200.00 and the problem remains. The tranny shop actually changed a "range sensor" and thought it was fixed. Nope - O/D off started flashing before I even got back home. I've been looking on the internet and it seems that alot of explorer owners have been having the same types of problems. The shops I have talked to have no idea other than rebuild my transmission. It only has 46,000 miles on it! It seems to me that the overdrive is not kicking in when needed and the light comes on.
View 14 RepliesI purchased my 2008 Explorer Ltd about 4 months ago with a 4.6L and 63k miles. I use it for towing a small travel trailer, so I don't put many miles on it. It's got about 66k on it now. According to OASIS, it has had all MFR maintenance performed up to the 60k mark.
In the past two months, it has developed a "sound" on startup. it goes away after about 75 seconds. To me it sounds like a typical exh manifold leak. That "3 cylinder, putt putt putt tractor" sound. There is no apparent affect on performance. It is definitely coming from the area of cyl #1. I have a recording here.
[URL]....
It is the "higher" of the sounds. The lower pulsing/whooshing is just regular engine noise. You can hear the regular engine noise as the camera pans to the back of the car.
What puzzles me is that the exh manifold sound goes away after 75 seconds or so. Holding the tailpipe shut for a bit builds up lots of pressure quickly. Do you think it IS, in fact, an exh manifold leak, and it seals up with thermal expansion as the engine worms up (75 seconds)? Is this a typical issue with the 4.6L
I have a 2003 Sport Trac that basically died last night on me. I drove it 30 miles Shut it off for about 10 minutes came back out and it cranks but it will not start. I sprayed some starting fluid into the throttle body and it ran for a second, so it's definitely a fuel issue. I am just not sure if it could be a fuel pump, Relay, or a dirty Fuel filter (I have not changed in the 87K I had the truck). Because it ran fine before it died..
View 5 RepliesI had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
View 1 RepliesHow many miles can be driven after the computer tells you have zero miles left to empty? Or rather how many gallons do you think is left in the tank after the computer says you're empty?
View 19 RepliesMy 2006 GS300 has oil burning issue after 80k miles now my odo is at 110k miles. I have changed my oil every 5000 miles, keep burning about 1 quart every 1k miles average. Literally burnt about 20 quarts of an oil with premium fuel. At 105k miles, I had replaced my bank 2 sensor 2 after the check engine light and vsc light came on, reset the code those lights came right back on.
Check the code again, found out bad cat converter between passenger side sensors. The recalls has been done at 65k miles at dealer. My questions are :
-What would be the cause of burning that much of an oil? No leaking on floor or bad smell.
-Is burnt oil causing the failure of cat converter?
-If I replace the cat, will it go bad again?
2004 Foed Freestar, the A/C has started blowing less than cool air in the past sveveral days. I'm assuming its low on refrg. but how does one check by visual inspection? If it is low will a simple re-charge kit w/guage and super dupper leak sealant do the trick? I saw a kit at Advance Autoparts for manufactured by Interdynamics. It had a guage w/trigger release for can content and three 12oz. cans of R134a. Will this kind of kit work?
View 6 RepliesWhen moving, I receive mildly cool air, when sitting still (traffic or lights) the A/C becomes warm. The air doesn't change outlets, velocity is the same. Other than checking pressure, what other possibilities... I am going to have it serviced.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1993 Ford F-250 super cab w/ 7.5 ltr engine 2wd. On a downhill at freeway speeds, foot off the gas, the A/C cuts out. When I step on the gas pedal again the cool air returns. The EEC IV has an output on pin 10 that can shut off the clutch, but I don't know what inputs it uses to make that decision. I know about the WOT condition, but this is the opposite of wide open throttle.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1999 F250SD with V10 and the compressor recycles about every 4 to 5 seconds and doesn't cool very much. I checked the 134a level and according to my gauge it has sufficient level. What could be my problem.
View 4 RepliesAs the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer Expedition. We noticed a few weeks ago that the A/C was not cooling like it used to, and now it does not cool at all. No cold air from either the front vents or the rear system.
Tonight it is 65 degrees ambient and the clutch is cycling about every 8 seconds. Every time it cycles I hear a hissing/rushing water sound under the passenger-side dashboard.
Is there's anything that I can check myself, or if I need to take it to a mechanic. I can do basic part replacement but am not qualified enough to take apart a charged system.
AC works, but only drops temp by 15 degrees. Pressures 40/150 after adding some 134a.
Compressor runs continuously at idle. (I don't know if this is correct or not.)
Not sure what the issue is.
My 94 is on the mend , since I got it a few months ago. The air conditioner blows cool , just not cold . It's still a R12 system, and I got the fittings/R134a/oil charge/and mineral spirits to do the change over, but hesitated when I found someone locally had a few cans of R12 for sale . My thought is to buy 1 can , and see if a shot would make the difference before going through the procedure to flush the 12 out and go with the 134a .
My biggest problem is lack of a gauge set , but a guy from CraigsList here says he walk me through the change over for 60 , and betting he'd have the hoses for a 12 system to hit that if that's how I decide to try first. I just wonder why , since I got it , the "cool" it does blow hasn't changed so I am betting it isn't leaking , but the jackleg I got it from was one that IMHO wouldn't know how to open the hood , or what to leave alone, I am just at that point of impasse, as to which way to go ...
I took my truck to a friends express lube to have some freon added to it. My truck has been blowing cool air, not cold. So i thought it might be low on freon considering its a 2000 f-150 w/ 145,000 miles. He took a pressure gauge to it and said it is over charged, the pressure was high.
View 13 RepliesI just got this 2006 F250 with a 6.0 diesel in January. Didn't check the AC until now. It doesn't work, not even cool air. I borrowed a gauge set. The static pressure in the system was 95 psi (77 F outside). I started the truck 1500 RPM with AC Max blower high, windows down. When the AC pump would run it would draw the low side down below about 20 and the high side pressure would go to about 150 before the pump would kick out (about 1 second pumping). It looked like it was low on refrigerant. Easy fix, WRONG.
I started adding a can of 134a (12 oz)with dye, to the system. The can got cold, and was going into the system, but the low side readings weren't going anywhere, the pump was still cutting off on low pressure. Still about a 1 second pump run time. The high side pressure were going up fast. After the can was in the high side pressure was going up to about 450. The low side would creep upto about 65 and when the pump would kick in it would draw it way down to maybe 30. Still very short pump times. I don't think the air ever came out of the vents even cool.
I got cold feet about the high side pressure and lowered the charge on the system. The new static pressure is 115.
Did I overcharge the system too fast? Does the system have to run for a while after a charge for the high side pressure to drop? It seems to me like there is a blockage causing the low side to be too low and the high side to be too high. Will air in the system cause this? What next?