Ford - Explorer :: 5R55W Rebuild Trans Taking A Long Time Shifting From 2nd To 3rd
Apr 29, 2017
Finally finished rebuilding my 5R55W transmission and have it back in the 2002 Explorer. Reverse works good, Drive works great, but I am having problems with it wanting to take a long time shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Have to let up on the accelerator in order for it to go into 3rd.
Goes into 3rd hard! 4th gear and 5th gear are finally back. I rebuilt it because I didn't have overdrive. When I didn't have overdrive, it would also take a long time to shift into 3rd and was hard.
Checked codes and am getting a "pending" P0745. Pressure Control Solenoid "A". What I need to start with?
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2003 Ford Exploreer 4x4 5R55W Auto Tranny. From driving the car it does not shift into 2nd or 5th gear. The O/D light flashes, and the check engine light comes on. Gives Code P0775, which indicates a problem with Solenoid 2.
This weekend I changed the Shift Solenoid Pack with a brand new one from Ford, and the exact same problems still exist. It's as if I hadn't done anything to the car. I have read somewhere that 2nd and 5th gears share a band in the tranny, could the the problem.?
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2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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Noticing that my drivers seat is taking a long time to heat up. I usually warm up the car in the winter, and turn on the seat heater. The seat is still cold when I get in, and does not heat up until I go a few miles. Have to check and see if the passenger is doing the same thing.
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I use a thumb drive plugged into the UBS port. I have maybe 16gb of music on it. I have noticed that each time I turn on the ignition, it take FOREVER for the infotainment to load the thumb drive. How it can be resolved?
I had about 1 TB of music on a solid state portable hard drive and it would load right away in my Tundra. Also have the same 16gb stick in my aftermarket stereo in my 2001 Honda Civic beater car and it loads right away.
Also, how to pick random among all albums? Can't get that to work either.
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So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
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O.K. first of all I had an issue with the Odometer pointer being jumpy. Sometimes it wouldn't move. Now I replaced the input sensor at first and did not fix the problem. I replaced the output sensor and fixed it. "BUT", Now, I have a problem with the transmission shifting. I get an engine light while driving and the 2nd gear seems to take its time shifting and when it does it make the left side drive shaft kick in hard and spends my wheel to a screeching effect. Plus a thump on the transmission. I rechecked the sensor for connection and reinstalled. Drove the car still have the same issue?
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04' Ford Explorer - 4.6l Automatic 4x4 - 138,000 miles... While driving today my transmission hesitated a long time between 2-3 gear and RPM went higher than normal. After coming to a stop a taking off again, long hesitation, slams into 3rd gear, check transmission warning came on and OD light on dash was blinking. I drive it home and pull the code: P0745. I drop the pan and find a piece of metal 1/4 wide x 1/2 long. Does this mean a complete trans rebuild?
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I just picked up a 2000 v6 passat with an automatic trans. I am new to passats, esp with autos. The cars transmission is having problems shifting with the trans gets hot (25-30 min run time) and slips. What is the trans code for this car and is it FWD or AWD? It has 220k, and the engine runs great. It was sorta an impulse buy, I plan on flipping it so hopefully tis a good investment. Any common things I should be aware of so I can get it tip top shape to sell it?
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He has a 2002 Explorer 4.6. The truck is having a hard time going into reverse intermittently, hard shift in normal driving and thinks it has slipped in first gear going up his driveway that is steep. He is worried that he put slightly over sized tires and this may hurt his tranny. The overdrive has blinked twice with in the year. Possible problems that could create this he is thinking solenoid pack, servos, torque converter. The truck has 110k and never done fluids, Would lucas slip fix or hurt we have heard that these tranny's are finicy.
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1994 E4OD Transmission.
Transmission was slipping terrible after vehicle warmed up. After feeling around for thoughts, it was suggested by numerous people that the transmission needed an overhaul.
Upon Disassembley the clutches were found to be excellent. They are actually thicker than the new ones in the kit. By .015" actually. Quite impressive considering they are 20 years old.
So now, I have kind of lost direction. If the original clutches are thicker than the new ones, and don't show signs of wear. What does that mean?
The fluid is pretty good, and there aren't fragments of metal. Nor is there any metallic shimmering to the color. It doesn't smell burnt or rotten either.
I have drained the torque converter and filled it with gasoline. I am going to spin it and hopefully knock any sediment loose.
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Just rebuild my civic 2000 b4ra trans. after I install the trans back and the car does not move under all gears. the manual says the fluid should be 6.2 Qt for overhaul and I added an external filter and an external cooler should take another 1 qt (?). I totally added 6 qt and the fluid level is ok. I put torque converter upside to drain and some fluids come out. but did not count how much.
Another weird thing is that I can not push the car down the drive way with slope with engine off and brake down and neutral gear. I jack up the front and give some gas under D4 and the wheel does not spin.
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99 F250 7.3 everyday worker, just recently my tranny slipped as I was taking off from a light, I thought hmm that's odd! Pulled away from the next light , it did not slip! Later in the day did it again, so I ran by the transmission shop to have a service done, to my surprise I was told service would not work, and a rebuild was going to be 3200-4k. truck has been used lightly for the last week or so, slips sometimes and not others. I still believe I need to have it serviced? can I do this myself ( I haven't a clue)....
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I have a 2004 auto honda accord 4cyl. When I turn the key to turnon my car it takes a couple of seconds longer than it use to, to turn on. Sometimes it doesn't start at all,until I stop and pump the gas brake. This seems to do the trick, the two or three times this happened. My guess is that the gas isn't getting through as it should.
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I've read a lot on here that people have issues with their elentra when shifting gears, I have been having this issue for a while now and have been trying to trouble shoot the issue. (some make the mistake of using GL5 instead of GL4 or the master, slave cylinder are bad.
I've checked all of those symptoms and all is still well oh and my car is an 07 with 141k miles on it with the clutch replaced at 75k miles on it.) I went to a thicker gear oil from 75/85 to 75/90 which isn't much of a difference. It did work for a short time with the rough shifting gears but it's doing it again.
From 1st to 2nd (especially from initial start then after it warms up it's not as rough but still grinds and 3rd gear is on its way to grinding) I've started with all the small things and i'm considering rebuilding the transmissions synchronizes in the the input and output shafts for the gears.
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I have a 2002 Ranger with a 2.3 lt engine and a 5R44E Transmission. Has 120,oookms (75,000 miles) I have an issue.
Here is what was happening: Would not shift into Drive...took a long time to do so.... and had a 2 to 3 gear flare.
Here is what I did: Replaced the valve body gaskets. Improved a lot. The 2 to 3 shift flare has gone. The delayed shift into D is mostly gone BUT still takes 15 to 20 seconds to shift into D. Once in gear no problems shifting. Does not slip and NO OD light flashing.
What do I need to do to fix the delayed shift issue.
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My wifes 2002 explorer stopped taking fuel at the gas station. You can only put about 1/10 of a gallon in before it clicks off. I have already dropped the tank and checked the fill and vent tubes, and looked inside both of the charcoal canisters on top of the tank. Everything looks perfectly fine?
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I have a 2008 4wd V8 Ford Explorer Limited. About 9 months ago I had both front wheel bearings replaced. Immediately after they were replaced, I noticed a strange, new symptom. When taking off from a stop (either headed straight or turning), about 10-20% of the time I will get some wheel slippage.
I can feel the gears slipping, I don't think the tires are actually spinning and I'm definitely not flooring it and losing traction due to engine torque. When this slippage occurs, the loss of traction light goes on, and it always goes away in a matter of seconds and then everything is fine.
Once I noticed this happening I took it to the Ford dealership but they couldn't diagnose it since I couldn't mimic the problem with them riding in the car. They said it shouldn't have anything to do with the wheel bearings they replaced, but I think there may be an electrical connection that wasn't re-attached properly??
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Tranny died 12000 miles ago and shop rebuilt tranny with new torque converter.
Problem then and now is after long freeway run 60+miles it dies and bogs down with any shift change. If it is placed in 2nd it will bogg down and die. If the tranny auto shifts it also dies. If it cools or just sits it will run again for a while. This does not happen always so it is hard to duplicate it.
Truck is not towing or even loaded most of the time and only once was it loaded when it died, the first rebuild. Truck has 249000 miles, ex v10.
So any clues as to what the shop missed last time and is it worth rebuilding again. Truck is only worth a bit more than the cost of shop time.
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The problem I'm having with this vehicle is that, it will start up just fine most of the time if I just hop in my after and haven't drove it for a while, however after I drive lets say 20 min+ and then decide to turn the car off and go back to turn it on, it just wont, it will turn over and its getting power but it won't follow through to start the engine, took it to a place by my house for 3 days and they said its probably the fuel filter but they couldn't give me a straight answer, what it most likely is? Its a 2001 Ford Taurus...
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I've owned my passat 07 2.0t for 8 months now (less than 10k) and i've noticed a difference in performance.
I usually keep the car in D (instead of S) to save some gas. My car is taking an awful long time to accelerate, specially at the traffic lights. Much older cars and old drivers (grannys) pass me after the light turns to green (i'm always the last one to take off). The engine goes all to the way to 3k rpms making a loud noise (even with the windows up) as if it was @ redline. Eventually it catches up and the turbo kicks in and i can get a decent speed but it takes so much longer than before. I also noticed that while it's doing that i only get 5-6 mpg (according to the car's computer).
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