Ford - Explorer :: 2010 V6 - No Map Sensor But Reading Bad
May 12, 2017
I have a 2010 explorer 4.0 v6 ... Everything was fine then while going to the store I lost power. Put my foot to the floor and was going no where...
I turned around tried to make it home. Truck died ... Towed it home as it would not start ...
Friend put reader on it came up with a lot of codes. Fixed everything it said i.e.,
. o2 sensor
MASS sensor
Well here is the problem It starts now but runs way rough ...
Put reader on it and it is reading i need to replace MAP SENSOR
No. Part store carries it .. Called ford deal they said my explorer does NOT. Have a MAP sensor
Why is it saying i need to replace it then Still cant drive cause no power/ runs to rough ....
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So, recently acquired my grandpa's "old" 2000 F250 with the 5.4. I am a pretty mechanical guy, not a mechanic, but not dumb and change my own parts for a lot of stuff. Anyways, when I got the truck, I noticed it didn't like to get warm, or so the gauge said. It would go a little above cold, but you could tell, not a normal reading. I did a coolant flush because the system desperately needed it, changed the tstat, and a few days later, changed the Coolant Temperature sensor.
I pulled the old one out, it was covered in amazing crud from many years of being in there. Slapped the new one in, nothing. Doesn't register on the gauge at all, in fact the gauge acts like it is a dead gauge. I thought it might be the sensor, so I popped the hood again and found I had managed to break the plastic plug on the sensor. Figured that was probably the issue and went and got another. Same result. Checked the connection, it is in there snug. Didn't reset the PCM when I changed the sensor and some vehicles can be finnicky about that.
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Replaced my post cat drivers side O2 sensor tonight because I was getting zero voltage and a p0430 code. This is bank 2 sensor 1.
But I'm still reading zero voltage!! How could I still be getting zero voltage?? I checked the connections and they are firm. Checked every single fuse in car.
After my recent accident, the center console lights don't illuminate. My nav door doesn't close too. Could these all be related?? The connector for the O2 sensor is right next to the console, so maybe there is a loose connection or plug or perhaps a stray ground?? I do have wires all over the place in under the shifter bezel from aftermarket stuff..
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Does my 1993 ford explorer sport 4.0 L V6 engine have a camshaft sensor and if so where is it located?
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1993 ford explorer sport... I got an error code for a low voltage MAF sensor. how would i go about fixing it? Do i need to get a new MAF sensor?
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What is the difference between the 2 wire & 3 wire cam sensors. I am installing a 98 4.0 in my nephews Explorer-engine build date of 12/98. The replacement engine build date of 5/98. There have been quite a few differences during this process and thought I had them worked out but the old engine had a 3 wire cam sensor and the replacement has a 2 wire. I have already changed the harness over due to other differences but my main question is will I have to swap the synchronizer or will the sensors interchange? The synchronizes look different as does the cam sensor.
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I have a 2001 ford explorer sport and realized that the oxygen sensor on the passenger side behind the cat was unplugged from the harness.
I am unable to find the harness and dont know where its supposed to go.
I would like to get this fixed right away but can not find a diagram anywhere, or a manual...
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My 02 Explorer (XLT, 4.0) decided to throw a new code today. PO136, O2 Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2).
While it may be a wire issue, I still plan to replace the sensor. So the question is;
Can I get to it from under the vehicle or is there an access panel under the console like on the 2nd gens?
I have the sensor on order and plan to get it done on my days off next week.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
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I have been getting a P0171 and a P0174 code lean bank 1 and 2 sensor 2. I have replaced all 4 censers the 171 is gone but I keep getting the P0174 and it only comes on when I am on the highway after driving around 10 miles or so i got a freeze frame of the data when it happen.
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I have a 2003 Explorer 4.6, about 2 weeks ago the CEL kicked on but I didn't notice any problem. Last week I stopped at a red light and felt it shacking a little, I took off everything seem ok. At the next light I felt it again and that time it started sputtering, I drove it for a few more days and it would sputter now and then as I was driving and every time when I would stop when it was in drive. I had the codes pulled and it came back with P2196 & P0405 (o2 & EGR).
I was going to buy a new 02 sensor & EGR but I was told that a bad EGR could be causing the o2 code also. I put the new EGR on yesterday and had the codes cleared. I test drove it for about 10 miles with no problems. Today while driving I felt it start doing it again and about 5 mins. later the CEL was back on. I got the codes and again its P2196 & P0405, Should I have changed the 02 sensor instead or what I should do next?
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My 2013 is always off by a few degrees (too warm) on the outside temperature display. This is not the sun or other outside influence. I wouldn't mind if it was just a couple degrees but it is always 5-10 degrees off. Can this be adjusted?
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2004 Sport Trac V6. Been having hard shifting and P0715: Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit. Cleared the codes and still returns.
From my searches, readings and looking at the parts diagram. On the newer 5 speeds the sensor is the one on the inside of the tranny. This requires taking the entire tranny apart? Is there an external connector for the sensor that I can check or clean first? Replace this sensor. I know the older ones were mounted on top of the tranny. I think this one is mounted on the inside though.
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Have a 2002 Ford Explorer 4.0 6cyl. w/ around 150K
I recently started hearing a little chirping noise when starting from cold. The rate of the chirping increases with the rpms (reving in neutral or when speeding up while driving). The sound usually goes away after things warm up.
Doing some research, the most suggested cause for such chirping is something called a Camshaft Position Sensor. Information mentions that this item can either need lubrication or to be replaced.
I was going to try lubrication first....then if the problem persists...replace.
My biggest issue is locating it on a 2002 4.0 Explorer (4 door, 4wd). I've read different reports for different Year models (mostly 97-2001)...which often include pictures. But I can't find ANY pictures for the 2002 4.0
QUESTION: Where it is located on my 2002 6cyl model? I read one account of it being on top of the driver's side valve cover....and I DO see an item in that location secured by one bolt..and it does have an electrical wiring harness attached....but I'm not sure...and have not seen any photos that look like my engine.
I've attempted to upload a picture of what I think maybe be the sensor (circled on red).
I've also come across an item called a "CRANKshaft position sensor".....are these different items, and, if so, does the crankshaft p.s. also "chirp" when needing lubrication or replacing ?
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1996 Ford Explorer on a small island with no mechanics. Vehicle does less than 100 miles per year, never over 20 mph. The check engine light came on and the code reader says it's a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor. The vehicle runs fine, just as it did before the check engine light came on. I'm tempted to put some electrical tape over the check engine light and keep driving.
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I have a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 5.0, the check engine light is on and my code reader gives P0161 and P0155 both stating that the O2 heater circuit sensor is bad. I replaced all 4 of the O2 sensors in the truck, cleared the codes but they still keep coming back. I have tried for a few days now to find something online similar to this but have had no luck. I am not sure what else to do.
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2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
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There's a high pitched whine type noise coming from my Mass Airflow Sensor. I can get it to go away temporarily if I goose the gas pedal, but it comes back after a minute or two. Has not affected drive-ability, but it's pretty annoying. It sounds like the hot wire is probably vibrating. Is there any fix for it, or do I have to replace the sensor to get rid of it?? Have tried cleaning it, but that did not work.
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I have a 2010 2-door accent, automatic. Today after driving about 45 minutes (engine warm), I stopped the car. When I tried to start again, it wouldn't turn over. Turned over on the third try; tachometer read at 0. Managed to drive home (35 miles), and the car did shift from gear to gear, but engine sounds tinny on idle. Turned off car at home and turned back on, still rough start and tinny idle but tachometer appears to be working again. No check engine light. At a loss; I've heard that there are a couple of crankshaft sensors that could do this, but I really don't know. Car is regularly serviced and has new belts (belts look fine), new strut plates, new tranny fluid, all about 6 weeks ago.
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
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Just recently purchased a 2004 Eddie Bauer Explorer w/ 110k. Took a Snap On scanner with me to look at it. ABS light was on and I also get a 4x4 high flashing light every 2-3 minutes. Blinks 8 times then goes away. Scanner showed the RF speed sensor isn't sending any mph signal back. Just reads 0. Will my problem be a new sensor or is the sensor getting a dirty signal trying to read dirty teeth on the hub? Also, will fixing this stop out with the blinking 4x4 light?
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