My wife has a 2010 Explorer 4.0 with 46000 miles on it. Yesterday the compressor started making a grinding noise when you turn the defrost on. It's only when the clutch kicks in. I'm hoping its something simple but, I fear its not.
View 8 RepliesWhat might be causing this symptom?
View 14 RepliesI have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).
I have a 2007 Elantra with 138,000 miles. I never had any slipping or jerking or reverse issues in the past. I got into the car put it in reverse just fine then put it in drive and nothing happened, I put it in park and the car kept rolling like in neutral and started making a loud grinding noise. When I put the transmission in any other gear the noise stops but will not move and acts as if in neutral.
View 2 RepliesMy new 2013 Ford Explorer Limited (5000 miles) recently started making a grinding/rubbing noise with a slight to significant braking action in the middle of turns (typically left turns, at moderate to slow speed, e.g., at stoplights) when my foot is on the accelerator, not the brake. Lasts about 1 second, happens once a day or so, typically when the car is cold. The dealer was flummoxed, tried replacing the steering gear, but the same thing happened as soon as I drove out of the lot. Apparently no codes showing on brakes or ABS.
View 2 RepliesFor the last few weeks, when I make a turn (particularly a sharp turn in either direction) I get a "clunking" noise that sounds like it is coming from the front end somewhere. I can also feel it - almost like a gear slipping and engaging again. I am not in 4WD mode when this is happening. It NEVER happens unless I am turning a corner. If I drive straight, it's fine. 1999 Explorer XLT (4 door, 4wd model)....
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2010 Hyundai Accent, with low miles (10,000), and the A/C Compressor is making a "growling" noise. The only way to explain the noise is when you hear a human try to immiate the sound of a dog growling. That's exactly what it sounds like.
First thing in the morning it doesn't make the noise to much, but as you drive for a bit you will start to hear it. Sometimes it's really loud, sometimes quieter. When you shut the A/C off, it will continue for a few seconds then stop.
The service department told me it was the compressor and it is, "pretty normal on the cars." How is that normal though? It sounds awful.
The other day I hit a good size bump at speed, slightly bent a wheel which I didn't even notice at first. The car drove straight and had no other symptoms, thought everything was okay. A couple days later I heard a weird grinding noise while making a left hand turn, it was so faint I honestly thought it was the fender liner. After the noises continued and further examination I noticed that the carrier is rubbing the rotor on the lower drivers side corner.
View 1 Replies97 F150 4x4 around 200k miles on it, Drove the truck to town today and it started making a screeching noise when I turn the wheel and moving at slow speed's It is not the typical Ball joint squeak, and they were replaced about 6 months ago. I also get a clicking squeak going down the road, everyone in a while from take of ill get a slide grinding or crunching noise. Also noticed that when taking a curve to the right i feel and hear a slight Bump but I don't when turning to the left/
Also it doesn't have the typical grinding noise of a bad unit bearing, there is a slight roar but Pretty sure that it is just the aggressive tire's... I am about to go out and Jack it up and have a look at it to see what it was. Also if I loosen the Cv nut on at the Hub that would show me if there was any play in the bearing correct? since the cv should keep the bearing's fairly tight even if they are worn?
Just bought a 2010 Toyota Rav4 about 2 weeks ago. It rained the other day and the brakes made a grinding noise the first time I braked after starting the car but didn't make it after that. Did it again the same day, still raining, but only the first time I braked after starting the car. I have a 30 day guarantee on the vehicle and need to know quickly if the brakes are bad or not.
View 7 Replies1990 Ranger 5 speed... The tranny has recently started making noises, first I thought it was the throw out bearing but I am afraid it is more than that. As I go thru the gears the trans makes rattling/grinding sounds: in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th it is loud but 4th it is quiet. What might be going on inside the tranny....
View 14 Replies2000 Explorer Sport with 4.0L SOHC engine. When I turn on the A/C the clutch on the compressor cycles off and on every 10-15 seconds. The A/C cools and the gas charge is checked as OK. Is this normal?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1992 for explorer XLT 2-wheel drive Automatic 4.0 engine. The starter started grinding against the fly-wheel. Changed the starter and the same thing happened. There is no shim for this starter. I took it down and checked the flywheel--as much as I can see through the starter mount hole and the teeth on the flywheel are great. There is only the slightest point of impact where the starter is just grazing the flywheel.
I also grabbed the flywheel to look for looseness, thinking it might have broken and/or warped and I just can't see where it broken because of the small hole. It's solid! It's as if the whole thing just moved back about an inch and a half... I texted both the old and new starters with jumper cables, and the make certain, I took them to the local parts store and they also texted them. While both of the starter were fine, I'm not!
I have a 1998 Explorer XLT V6 (4.0 SOHC) with an AC problem. The AC compressor will not turn on via normal means - turn to AC or AC Max, rotate temp to left. It hasn't been a problem as I never use the AC, but I'm fixing a few of the minor inconveniences (dash lamps, re-solder radio) and figured, why not look at the AC too.
A while back my mechanic said he used the Explorer to test his AC equipment and made sure the Freon was good. He said everything was working. I am assuming he was able to control the AC system from his tools under the hood. This tells me the system is good and the problem is related to the temperature control or a switch somewhere.
My 05 Explorer has started making a like slightly jumping motion and thumping sound when I let off the gas. It seems to maybe happen when it wants to gear down but it I give it the slightest gas it quits. Do you check the ans fluid when it's hot or cold? I checked it hot and it ran out.
View 1 RepliesThe A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
View 4 RepliesMy truck has grinding noises when i am making turns from a stop or at slow speeds. Also my 4x4 dash light keeps flashing several times both when I am sitting still and when driving. Neither my 4x4 auto or 4x4 high work but the low will work. Trying to pinpoint where I should look to fix them. I did replace the 4x4 control mod as an attempt to fix this.
View 1 RepliesMy 2015 is making a strange noise most noticeable when making a slight right turn up a driveway. It sounds like a spring popping.
View 3 RepliesAC compressor makes a loud growling noise and lugs the engine briefly when engaged at idle and the truck has been sitting for weeks. After that initial grind, it works perfectly and makes no harsh noises. Can I replace the compressor bearing or should I swap out the entire compressor?
View 2 RepliesIt is a 2002 Explorer xlt 4x4 4.6l v8 with 139k miles. It runs like a top and is in great condition. However I have a few questions:
Most importantly is it feels and sounds like the rear-end is slightly grinding at low speeds mainly when I turn right. If I give it a bit of gas when turning it doesn't seem to do it. I have tried running a vin decoder to figure out if I have limited slip or not so I can drain the rear diff and inspect it, but I haven't found what it has as far as gears go.
Number two. The keyless entry and remote worked when I bought the car and then about two days later it just stopped working. I bought a new battery for the remote and put it in and it still doesn't work.
Also the interior lights will stay on after you start the car until I hit about 15mph, and also stay on for about 5min after I shut the car off. I am not sure what may cause this. I have owned tons of older ford's but am relatively new to anything newer than 2000.
And I know pics or it didn't happen, so there is one of the door sticker, one of the rear axle, and one of the car ...
This week was our first nice week of the year. Monday I got in my truck at lunch time turned the a.c. on and it blew ice cold. Today my truck sat in the sun all day and I got in it and turned the a.c. on. I noticed instead of the normal "click" you hear when the clutch engages in the a.c. compressor I got a wine and wimper kind of noise. The system never cooled the air after this happened. Is the compressor shot? Is it safe to drive or is the compressor going to tear itself up and send metal pieces thru the system?
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