Ford - Explorer :: 2008 - Stock Subwoofer Removal?
Sep 12, 2016
Are there any guides out there on how to remove the stock subwoofer? I have been searching numerous places and coming up fairly blank on how to remove it. So far I have found that I need to remove the seatbelt bolt, but looking in the trunk it appears I need to remove the piece of trim that runs along the trunk lid floor and both the B and C pillar in order to remove the trim that goes over the subwoofer.
Does the trim clip into place on the trunk lip, pillars and over the sub? Looking for any more information on getting to the stock sub? I have found a half dozen threads of people swapping them out, but no one posted how they got to the subwoofer in the first place.
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One thing I noticed with my truck was that the sound was really poor (truck is fitted with "premium sound") - I followed the common thread and replaced all 4 speakers with the Infinity 6829CF's, when doing it, it definitely improved the mid and high range clarity, but in the lower end there was nothing.
I then discovered no movement in the sub... I am a little electrically challenged, and wondered if you have some pointers (i.e. does it have its own fuse/relay to check)
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What harnesses or adapters do I need to get my some aftermarket speakers plus my aftermarket subwoofer hooked up. I have a 4 channel for the speakers and a mono for the subwoofer.
Trying to figure out whether to go this route or buy the wiring harnesses and dash kit needed for my old pioneer d3 double din HU and hooking up RCA's that way.
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i just got a 2008 FEH 100K paid 11500 out the door 12800 is that a good deal? everything is clean. It has the upgraded sound system but i noticed that some feh have the mpg displayed on the screen it look like the feh with navigation not sure if this is seperate from nav or just part of touch screen. in any case is it possible to just install the stock dvd/nav stereo to get the mpg avg screen? if so is ther a guide
also is there a good read around here for new feh owners? looking to get the most mpg out of this ride.
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I want to get rid of the stock exhaust and run a 4' or 5' exhaust all the way back. Will I still need to use DEF? Completely remove the whole system.
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I have an 02 f150 xl, I'm taking the stock head unit out and replacing it with a Pioneer 1900. I didn't buy a connector I'm just splicing the wires together, I know I shouldn't do it that way but it's to late now, what my problem is, there are three ground wires coming from the truck and the new head unit only has one ground, I just looked wiring diagrams up for both head units and that got pretty much everything done, just there are two speaker ground wires that are black and green, and then a regular black ground wire, I'm not sure if I should connect them all together or cap them separately, because I connected everything up and the head unit wouldn't turn on...
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I'm replacing the passenger side manual hub on my '04 F250. I did a brake job last year and I'm sure I cleaned/inspected/lubed the hubs. I can't seem to get this one out. I have the snap ring out and with a rubber mallet, I can get it wiggle just a little. I've loaded up around where the snap ring went with penetrating oil.
Am I missing something? It's just a snap ring and the hub should just pull out, right?
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I'm looking to remove my stock seats and ad bucketts to my 2001 Ranger XLT. I want to use the center connsole from an explorer. Any installation tips?
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I am looking to improve the stock transmission oil cooling. Since the factory routing runs through the coolant radiator and then through an oil radiator, these are the 3 methods im considering.
1. Replace the factory oil radiator with a larger one.
2. Eliminate running it through the coolant radiator and instead run 2 oil radiators
3. Add a fan to the factory oil radiator
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1999 Ford Explorer XLT 6 4.0l SOHC. Is there any practical way to remove the transmission pan and maybe the valve body without removing the catalytic converter that is right under it?
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I have a 99 Ford Explorer XLT, V6, 4X4 with the 5R55E automatic transmission. I'm getting ready to remove / replace the transmission. Do you have to lower the back of the engine any for the transmission to clear the torque converter? Any tricks to getting torque converter off the flywheel?
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I am trying to remove the center console in my 1996 explorer limited 4x4 4.0 liter v-6 . Is there some type of trick or hidden fasteners? I am trying to replace the heater core.
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Working on power steering upgrade and removing old components. 51 f1 mostly stock with safety updates. I have the drivers side steering arm loose, but cant seem to remove it. Is there a cam or pin I am not seeing? Couldn't find any reference in shop manual. Removed cotter n nut. Used air hammer gently. Pushed forward 1/2" n then stopped. Swivels vertically.
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I just acquired a 2007 Ford explorer. I'm in the process of changing all the fluids and am wondering if there is room to pull the front differential cover off to clean the gunk out of the bottom of the front differential. It looks tight and I'm wondering if the differential or the steering rack and pinion need to be removed to remove the cover or if there is just enough room?
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I thought this might be a little difficult but it wasn't at all. Simplest door panel that I've ever pulled off.
first remove the panel that goes around the door handle, gently pry it up in the front where the speaker grill meets the panel, use a couple of flat head screw drivers for this. It will pop up once the tabs are released, then you can remove it.
Then remove the window/lock control panel, the front of this will need to be gently pulled up and then you can remove it by sliding it forward. Don't pry up on the rear or you can break the tab off. Unplug the three wire connectors/plugs. A small flat head will work with this.
Remove one 7mm screw behind the panel that you just removed, then remove the two 7mm screws on the very bottom of the door panel.
Now simply lift the door panel straight up and then outward, remove the last wire connector for the power mirrors & it's off.
I also replaced the outside door handle & lock assembly. It was very easy as well. just a 12mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet & small flat head screw driver.
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I bought a used 2006 F150 Lariat 4x4 (5.4L) and discovered that the oil filter and filter housing did not match stock. All web searches return the fram filter ph2 but the truck had the equivalent of ph10575. It was the right filter for the housing so it's not a case of someone putting the wrong filter on the truck. The ph10575 filter is for model years 2010 - 2013. Should I start investigating whether the engine had been replaced or is this normal?
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Replacing their stock muffler with a Magnaflow and kept the rest of the exhast system stock? How does it sound? Any performance gains?
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I have a 2003 Ford Explorer with Power Steering problems. I have read and tried all the solutions I found here, except replacing the pump. Seems like it is the pump. Oil was burnt, I flushed twice. I checked the rack and lubed as identified in another post, same jumpy hard to steer issue. Anyway, now I am trying to remove the Pump. I have removed the reservoir and am trying to remove the pump. I have the top two bolts out, but cannot get to the bottom tow bolts. How do you access them? Do I need to remove the lower radiator hose, and / or the oil filter?
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How do you remove the rear pass side wheel studs? I have knocked them loose but there isn't enough clearance to remove them. I have removed the parking brake shoes already. Does the hub have to be pulled to do this?
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I have a friend with a 96 4.6 4x4. He tried to put a new starter. He couldn't figure out how to get it out! So I got called out. I can barely get under this dam thing. I'm lost on how it comes out. It stuck by oil pan and front diff housing. It not much that I'm stuck by 1/4" at most.
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I have a 2007 f150 XLT with 18 inch stock rims. I also have a 2 inch leveling kit, how big of tires can i put on it?
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