Ford - Explorer :: 2008 - RSC Light Will Come On - Dinging Sound


Dec 31, 2013

I'm currently having an issue with our 2008 Explorer, 4.0L, 4x4 RSC. The RSC light will come on, and there is a dinging sound. This has happened in the past, usually in town, slower speeds, etc. I had it checked out, but no codes were being thrown. The brakes (rotors & pads) are fairly new and in good working order.

Well, tonight it happened at ~70mph. It felt like each brake was individually depressing, even though the brake pedal had not been touched. I assume it's a sensor but plan to get it into the detailer on Thursday.

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I own a 2008 Suzuki XL7, purchased new from the dealership in 2008. Recently, the vehicle sounds a dinging alarm inside the cab of the vehicle & the dash lights up w/ "Service Traction Control" & "Service Stability Control" warnings. These warnings appear sporadically - not at startup - but sporadically while I am driving, and in no specific time pattern. We have had the brakes checked, diagnostics run at a mechanic shop, purchased new tires, and changed the fuses. We have googled Suzuki websites & found that other people are having this problem, but no one seems to have a solution.

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Pulled into parking lot this morning, 05 F250 CC 4x4 V10, truck starts dinging at me, Park brake light comes on. Ease off of gas and idle around to parking place, no sign of brake drag. Release Park brake, no difference, set the brake and release, no difference, guess the microswitch went bad. Not raining, never hit a bump, MAY have had my foot on the brake, but that shouldn't effect the P Brake.

After setting for the 12 hour shift, all is good and well. Did not come back on.

Where this switch is? Is it under the cover by the foot set or under the truck along the cable? Would like to know where to look next time this comes up. Did have 2 new tires installed on the front a week ago, new tierod and aligned at the same time.

Just wondering and curious, my last F150 had all kinds of electrical germlins in the windshield wiper arm.

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Ford - Explorer :: 2008 - Sound At Start Up At 63K Miles - Exhaust Manifold Leak?

I purchased my 2008 Explorer Ltd about 4 months ago with a 4.6L and 63k miles. I use it for towing a small travel trailer, so I don't put many miles on it. It's got about 66k on it now. According to OASIS, it has had all MFR maintenance performed up to the 60k mark.

In the past two months, it has developed a "sound" on startup. it goes away after about 75 seconds. To me it sounds like a typical exh manifold leak. That "3 cylinder, putt putt putt tractor" sound. There is no apparent affect on performance. It is definitely coming from the area of cyl #1. I have a recording here.

[URL]....

It is the "higher" of the sounds. The lower pulsing/whooshing is just regular engine noise. You can hear the regular engine noise as the camera pans to the back of the car.

What puzzles me is that the exh manifold sound goes away after 75 seconds or so. Holding the tailpipe shut for a bit builds up lots of pressure quickly. Do you think it IS, in fact, an exh manifold leak, and it seals up with thermal expansion as the engine worms up (75 seconds)? Is this a typical issue with the 4.6L

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have 2002 Explorer with 4.6l that stalled at a stop light and upon restart, there was noticeable ticking and a sucking sound. The exhaust regularly sucks your hand against the pipe. Ticking is from all around the engine. Exhaust smells like rotten eggs.

Son was driving and we just got it back to house so I do not know much more than that. Where to start to diagnose.

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I have an issue with my seat moving and the dome light coming on while driving. This happened several times and I checked the fuses and for a possible loose connection. When I jiggle the key in the ignition the seat would start to move. I was trying to replicate the issue. Today the seat moved and the light came on but this time the truck shut off... I am thinking it maybe something in the ignition....

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2016 Explorer XLT 4WD light Clunk Sound Problem. I purchased a brand 2016 explorer brand 2016 explorer
and since new it has a light clunk sound and you feel a click on [URL] .... when accelerating in Drive out of Park. Brought it to the dealership and they don't know what the issue is.

Steps to Recreate:

1) From Park put the vehicle in Drive
2) Start accelerating in forward motion and I hear a clunk/click sound and feel it in the gas pedal.

The problem does not occur in that driving session unless you put the vehicle in park again and then back to Drive. Just to clarify its when you start moving you feel the clunk.

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Ford Excursion :: No Start Or Crank But Clicking / Buzzing / Dinging And Blinking

I have a 2000 V10 4wd. I'm going to list what happened in time order to best describe this problem. Sometimes when key is off there is a clicking from under the brake proportioning valve and sometimes a 2 second long buzz. When this happens, the A/C blower motor can run with key out also. If mistakenly left on over night it kills the battery.

I also notice that sometimes while driving my airbag light comes on randomly and sometimes it dings with doors closed. Also a few weeks ago the overdrive light starts blinking every few days. A few weeks later it wont start. No crank. So I put in new starter because mine was looking pretty crusty. Still no crank, but if I jump connection on inner fender solenoid/relay, then it starts fine.

Next day I put in a new solenoid/relay on passenger inner fender. Cranks fine and starts fine for the whole day until it randomly begins cranking by it self. With no key in. It did this several times even after re-checking everything and cycling key switch to check for bad connection there. The trans starts shifting hard, like the line pressure increased and sometimes it growls a little when it shifts into 4th

I then figured it was the Digital Trans Range Sensor which only allows start signal to go from key switch to the inner fender solenoid/relay if the trans is in park or neutral. I tested the DTRS and it seems to be working fine. It only has power at the solenoid if its in park or neutral on the tan/red wire, but the wht/pnk wire has power even when not cranking.

Being I couldn't figure out why it had power, I cut the red/lt blu wire at the ignition harness and ran a wire from the key switch side to the solenoid. Cranks and starts fine for 2 days and no mystery cranking either. Then after my wife had it all day acting fine I go to leave work that night in the rain after working a 14 hour day..... no crank. I noticed the "THEFT" light blinking but I've noticed that before and never had an issue starting.

When I came back to work in the morning it cranked and started fine 3 or 4 times then crank but no start again. I reconnected the crank wire back to factory thinking I bypassed something necessary. No change. Still acting randomly. I just ordered a VSS for the rear axle and a new DTRS for the trans. Gonna put these in today and test. Next will be a key switch since I'm having things work with key not on and I have 8volts on my grey/yell Accessory wire with key off.

I found a relay that clicks when inserted in it's socket even if key off. Its located driver side by Firewall by the Brake Booster. It has a tan/red wire(same as activation wire on inner fender solenoid but doesn't effect starting.

I have a schematic of starting system but I can't post pics because new acct here. The starter wire is red/blue at Key Switch then wht/pink after Central Junction Box, then dk blu/org after CPPJ clutch pedal position jumper(mine is auto trans. thats why is has factory jumper) but then turns to wht/pink before the DTRS then tan/red out of DTRS and at solenoid(I'm not sure it goes direct from DTRS to solenoid but color stays). As mentioned earlier, the white/pink wire has power but it shouldn't unless cranking, so its either getting it from the CJB or from where it changes from dk blu/org to wht/pink. Is there anything between the CJB and the DTRS? If nothing then why does color of wire change, and what could be giving the wire power?

Just as a note, in case it matters....my interior lights don't come on when door is opened but when it is open it dings like the key is in even when its not.

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So, yesterday when I got home I stopped at the barn to unload a few bails of hay and when I got back in to crank it, nothing happened. I turned the key and nothing, so I figured I would just worry about it today. However, when I turned the key back to off and started to take it out all sorts of stuff started to happen. There was a clicking noise and a dinging, not like when the door is open. It was quicker. Also, when I turned my key back on none of my dash lights or radio came on. Nothing happens now, except the strange clicking when the key is off or out. The first thing I thought of was the GEM or fuse box.

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It starts immediately when the car starts to roll. It will do it every time I drive for weeks, then for no reason will stop and not do it for a month. I am afraid to take my car on long trips for the fear of it starting to "ding". I have tried and tried to get it diagnosed but no one can fix it or even find a reason it would be doing it. There is no notification light so they don't know where to start. How to cut the wire that is hooked up to this chime ...

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