Ford - Explorer :: 2008 - Got Error Code P0401 With CEL?
Jan 30, 2015
I have a 2008 Sports Trac, with a 4.0 SOHC engine ... 165k miles. Last week my check engine (CE) light came on and the code is P0401 ... too little flow on the EGR system. I first tried cleaning the existing valve - but CE light still came on. So I replaced the old EGR valve, cleaned the SS tube from the exhaust manifold back to the EGR valve and the CE light is still on. I have not driven the truck since I replaced with the new valve ... only fired her up in the garage. Is this something that could possibly clear up given a couple of miles?
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I have a P0401 code that just fired today. I tried to clear the code, but it came right back on the drive home. There are no drivability symptoms so far; just the CEL.
It looks like the DPFE sensor is part of the EGR valve on this model. Do the 401 code usually means that the EGR needs to be changed, or if there are other common causes of this code that I need to check? The DPFE sensor fixed the same issue on my Escape, but that was an easy $34 and 30 seconds repair. Looking for some 2004+ year owners' experience (I guess 2002 and 2003 models had the DPFE?).
4.0L V6 engine
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I have a Toyota Prius (2010), and the car has run for about 2800000 kilometers. One day when a was driving my Prius the engine light suddenly get on. So I went to a car car mechanic, he checked the car and told me there was an error code (error code: P0401, exhaust problem (exhaust recirculation flow).
So I bought a liquid that I put in the gas tank, the liquid would clean the exhaust pipe, but the engine light was still on. The engine light is usually on at least 2 weeks, then disappear for about 2 days and come back in two weeks…The car is driving normally without any problems.
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I am preparing to combat the old P0401, Insufficient flow issue. While looking at the steps in Alldatadiy the very first decision essentially forks on "EGR System Module" or "Others".
I am just guessing that, since the choice is there, some engines will have one and some will have the other. But I thought I'd come here and see if I could learn a little more about it.
How can I tell what my truck has? I'm sure there is some difference...
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I have a 97 Ford Explorer and the air bag indicator started to flash a code 45. What is this code and what do I need to do to clear this problem?
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1993 ford explorer sport... I got an error code for a low voltage MAF sensor. how would i go about fixing it? Do i need to get a new MAF sensor?
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I just pulled error code B1944 from my 96 Explorer. It says
Crash sensor ground
Ckt 1, High res/open
I found the airbag diagnostic module (in passenger cowl area) and checked for loosed wire, nothing found. Where the loose ground wire is located? I checked under the seat (didn't do a through job, but looked).
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I have a '97 XLT, 5.0 and the error code for the O2 sensors has popped up, when checking it shows there isn't voltage for the heater circuits. I see there are 3 different heater circuits, 1ea for the left & right O2 sensors and a common one for the catalytic converter O2 sensors, so I ordered another PCM.
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The other day, my Explorer gave a hard jerk while changing into 2 (maybe 3rd?) gear. Never happened before. I was under 20 MPH & had just stared it. (My speedometer works as do all the dials.) My Check Engine light came on & when I had the code pulled it read quote "P0715."Transmission Speed Sensor circuit condition. Vehicle speed above 15 MPH while transmission output shaft speed below 60 RPM. Possible cause Failed transmission speed sensor or electrical problem"
I got a Transmission Speed Sensor, (which I haven't put in yet), and was told that this would solve the problem. My question is twofold: Is there ANY chance this is a false or misread code and the problem is something else? And could ANOTHER sensor attached to the transmission be the cause? (How many sensors are on the tranny?) All I've read about this problem, say's replacing the Transmission Speed Sensor is preceded by the SPEEDOMETER quitting, but mine works fine.
The truck is a 1997 Explorer 4x4, but I don't use 4x4. In fact I've driven it without the forward drive shaft ever since I had the BW4405 Transfer Case replaced.
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My daughters 2000 explorer has a PO172 code, tune it up,Replaced filters plugs & wires and rear O2 sensors that were damaged. Has 65 psi on fuel rail. Can not find any vacuum leaks. Not sure maybe injectors are dirty.
Also I replaced MAF, now it idles, But it's a rough Idle,Gets worse in gear. She say's on cold start up she can smell a whiff of gas ..
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I just bought a F150 with 103,000 on it. The engine is a 4.6. I get a P0605 code every now and then which doesnt effect performance. I erase the code and it doesnt appear again for maybe another 100 miles.
I suspect a loose connector but not sure. Looked up the code and it reads PCM READ ONLY MEMORY (ROM) ERROR. My question is what does the PCM operate? And wheres a good place to start troubleshooting?
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The Explorer ran just fine last week, until I tried to clear a chronic (months) "Check Engine" light. Initially the only 2 codes were pertaining to the DPFE sensor and Cylinder #1 misfire. I found an aftermarket rubber hose from the DPFE that had rotted off. I replaced the rubber hose, and I replaced the #1 spark plug and wire. Instead of simply clearing the codes and turning off the "Check Engine" light, it now shakes to the point where it's barely drivable. 57 mph seems to be the "sweet spot" where the shaking is the worst, but it will also shake under heavy acceleration, and when driving uphill at freeway speeds. Taking your foot off the gas seems to decrease the shaking somewhat. The weather had been unusually cold (for South Texas), and as the weather has warmed-up, the shaking seems to have diminished, so there may be a connection between the shaking and the temperature.
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0301 Cylinder 1 One Misfire Detected
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0401 Insufficient EGR Flow
I have a lot of questions, but do not want to cloud the 1st post of the thread with information that may be irrelevant, so I'll leave it at that. This is my work vehicle and I'm in the middle of a job and am worried that I may be causing permanent damage to the vehicle by driving it. I know I can change-out the DPFE sensor and the ICM, but as they are both non-returnable parts, I don't want to spend the money without good reason.
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I have the error code P0340 and have changed both camshaft positioner sensors, cleaned the air sensor and throttle body and still the engine stalls. I can accelerate at 40, 50, 60mph and it jerks violently. I tried the "locking it in third" trick but it still jerks. Today I unplugged the left cam sensor and the truck idles @ 400rpms, does not stall, and pretty much drives great! Hook it back up and crank it, within 10-15 seconds it stalls. I plan to check the wiring....
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I have two codes off my "digi moto lite" obd2 scanner....
P0201 - internet search suggests it's a fuel injection code....
However I can't find anything on code C3203....
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I recently changed from a problem-ridden SCT Livewire to a SCT Xcalibarator3, and now when running my custom tune I get a check engine light and a error code P0605. I never got this on the same tune with the Livewire. What causes this and how to fix it?
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What would make the OBD II not read the code that is set on my truck. It says "Communication Error..." Fuse 41 grants power to the Diagnostics port and the cigarette lighter. The cigarette lighter is working. Any other reasons I can look at?
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I have a 2010 Toyota RAV4. In February 2014 at 34,600 miles when the car was 46 months old I had the EVAP (charcoal) canister and filter replaced for $1,300. Error codes were P043, P0401 and P0402. Recently I had the following check engine error codes appear (P043E & F, P2401, P2402 & P2419) and was told by my mechanic that the car basically had the same problem. I am now at about 50,000 miles. I don't believe this type of problem is very common; also I think that the EVAP should continue functioning for a lot longer than ~4 years and now ~1.5 years. How likely is it that I got a "bad" original EVAP charcoal canister & filter and then the replacement was also "bad"? Might there be something else that is defective that is causing the EVAP canister to go bad? I don't generally top off the gas tank when filling up.
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My 2007 Ford F150 Lariat (5.4L) with 82k miles popped a P0307 (#7 misfire) code one chilly morning. It began stumbing and hesitating a bit between 25-35mph, and each time it occurred, the engine light would flash on and off. Hesitation clears and light goes steady. Cleared the code and didn't see problems again for a month...until the next cold day (freezing temps). Popped again and hesitation returned. Ford dealer wants to change plugs. I've read coils can also cause the issue. Not sure if I can do either myself.
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So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
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My '96 4L developed the infamous P0401 insufficient EGR gas flow code 6 months ago. Rough running. Forgot to license it, now the St. Emissions Test was due before I could get new tabs issued. Finally got some warm dry weather to work on it. Started with the electrical measurements per DPFE graph of EGR flow vs electrical output to the PCM.
Showed the DPFE sensor failed, low V output max 2v. The old OEM aluminum body DPFE sensor was still in the old girl after 16 years. Corroded internally and ext., one hose nipple almost corroded off. Eureka. Put in a new Motorcraft plastic body upgrade. Same darn code.
Retested everything from the EGR vacuum valve that feeds the EGR valve to the new DPFE and then the EGR tube from the exhaust pipe. All tested ok electrically and leak wise. No fresh air leaks in the EGR V or EGR tube.
All pointed to restriction in EGR gas flow when PCM demanded it. Ran small stainless steel wire down the upper EGR tube line nipple to the EGR orifice trying to clear carbon build up, still the same P0401. Poured several cups of paint store acetone down each EGR tube hose with engine off and at 2k rpm to emulsify and dissolve the exhaust carbon out. Engine vacuum sucked the acetone up thru the EGR valve also cleaning it internally.
Let set overnight and took out for test drive. Still P0401. Almost ready to drive the green beast to the crusher of death.
Poured more acetone in the EGR and let set for 2 days prepared for the emissions station test failure then repair at emissions cert. shop with a shop waiver for no effective repair. Decided that the EGR tube or EGR valve were leaking fresh air, rusted and corroded. The end nuts on the tube were rusted away. EGR tube NLA from any source.
Went to the emissions test today and passed flying colors. NO P0401, drove all day on business. Got relicensed.
The old girl runs and drives like a dream, she's actually parked and sleeping in the garage tonight all pretty and shiny with a wash and wax job, got a reprieve from the Jaws of Death
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So here's the background. I recently bought this truck. It's a 97 Ford f150 4x4 4.6l 99w vin code. Anyway Driving it home got a p0401. No problem. I Applied vacuum from other vacuum source to EGR engine stalls. So to me passages are clean in the throttle body. I checked to verify and indeed passages are clean. No while doing so I noticed no vacuum was making its way to the dose valve thing. Strange.... So took the line that runs to the passenger fender to dose off and it was impossible to blow air through.
So I cut out the clogged section found solder in the line. I filled the gap I now created using some 5/32 vacuum line reconnected to test and to my anvil still not vacuum. So I disconnected it again. Went directly to where the yellow/orange dose vacuum line connects to at the passenger fender and to my surprise no vacuum there either. No my question is. Am i suppose to have constant vacuum to the dpse or I'm I just being an idiot. And two if I am suppose to when the vacuum line runs into the passange fender where does it go from there and could I have a major issue in my hands?
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