Ford - Explorer :: 2008 - Command Start - Horn Beeps / Lights Came On But Vehicle Not Starting
Oct 11, 2012
My command start for 2008 explorer was installed by ford dealer couple of years ago. Now when I press remote start, horn beeps 1 time, doors lock, lights come on then it should start but instead horn beeps once again and vehicle does not start , radio and heater in vehicle run as if vehicle was started.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 King Ranch, my auto start has been acting up recently I push the start button the horn beeps, then powers up, but then don't start, up until now it has been working fine. Also when I sit in the truck and put the back of the key(black piece) near the ignition and press the start button it fires up as normal...
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I got a 2010 F-150 and just installed RECON headlights and taillights on my truck yesterday. Today, I went to go and use my remote start and the lights come on like it should and then it beeps 3 times and doesn't start. All my doors are closed. I thought maybe it was something with my hood sensor but I couldn't really find it.
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Got a '13 FX4, sometimes my remote start works and sometimes the horn just beeps when I go through the sequence.
Am I doing something wrong, leaving a door not shut all the way etc.... Are there any parimiters where it won't remote start and just "beep" the horn?
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I have a 1997 explorer sport. I can get out lock the doors and as I am walking away, it will unlock it self. Also I have noticed when looking out the window at it at night that the interior lights will go on as if I was unlocking the vehicle.
I have even noted when I get into the truck in the morning, sometimes it continues to try and unlock it self when it is already unlocked. I know that the little security light in the dash does not come on anymore when I lock it.
Replacing the Remote Anti-theft Personality (RAP) module? Is this the black box in the left rear fender with my door code on it?
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I have a 96 explorer XLT 4.0 4 wheel drive. The alarm will start honking the horn after the alarm has been activated. It usually takes a few hours then it goes off. I was in extreme temps and was thinking that was it. I am in another state now and it's not that cold here. Could it be a battery in the fob? I have gone to each door and rear hatch to make sure nothing was left open.
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I have a 2007 F150 Lariat with a 5.4 L engine. Bought it 6 weeks ago from the original owner. Has 50,000 miles on it. He had a Ford command start installed when it was new, and received a new key FOB at that time. When I drive the vehicle, sometimes the horn will start blowing and the lights start flashing which to me, indicates the trucks security alarm is activated. The only way to make it stop, is to hit the unlock button on the key FOB. It also does it sometimes when it's not running and I open a door. Previous owner had same problem so he disconnected the horn!!?!
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I am not sure if it is the same time every night like clock-work or if it's a set interval after I come home...but here is what happens:
-I come home and I turn off the power to my 2010 Prius after parking.
-I lock the car and I get that loud external "Beep"
-Around 2 to 3 hours later, I hear 4 to 5 beeps in a row from the horn. It sounds just like the beeps that are made when I unlock the car. Just a bunch of them in a row..for no reason
It is really loud and ticking off my neighbors. What would cause this? I have a dealer installed Rockledge security system.
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We have a 2000 SL1 that started having the horn go off (continuous, not intermittent beeps). The first time it happened was early in the morning, lot of moisture in the air, and it stopped when I hit the middle of the steering wheel. The second time it happened was during the night (again a lot of moisture in the air) and my son unplugged the horn.
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I have 2008 LX, i press brake, green light comes on, pressing button to start everything goes to work (radio, lights, vents etc) but not engine, it does 4 long beeps, then continues beeping. Tried with both keys and both immobilizers, tested batteries, they all good.
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I was going to check the oil so I popped the hood and as soon as i did that the horn started to honk and the 4 ways came on. didn't have the key in the ignition. it wouldn't start either while this was going on. had to take battery cable off. Rehooked after awhile and the same thing.
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My 2000 Ford Explorer O/D off light starts flashing after driving it after 3-8 miles from starting out. After shutting it off, it resets itself. It seems to stick between 2nd and 3rd (automatic trans) because I get a surge on my RPMs. I took it to two places, spent $200.00 and the problem remains. The tranny shop actually changed a "range sensor" and thought it was fixed. Nope - O/D off started flashing before I even got back home. I've been looking on the internet and it seems that alot of explorer owners have been having the same types of problems. The shops I have talked to have no idea other than rebuild my transmission. It only has 46,000 miles on it! It seems to me that the overdrive is not kicking in when needed and the light comes on.
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Twice in the past week our truck wouldn't start. The first time I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it started. This morning I went to the Dr and when I got out it wouldn't start again and my can of starting fluid didn't squirt. I called my wife and had her bring another can but in the mean time I changed the fuel pump relay in the fuse box under the hood and it started reluctantly, it sputtered at first until I put some pedal to it. I don't think that is the problem. I got it home and checked the codes, there were none. I'd say fuel filter but it runs good at high speed. If there were no spark there would be a code so I assume it's fuel related. It's run perfectly since I acquired it last year.
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2008 sport trac .... I have replaced all the bulbs and fuses but the tail lights will not work or the license plate lights. but the blinkers and brake lights work fine....
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DRL quit working on my 2008 Avy.
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The horn on the vehicle is not working. The fuse and relay have both been tested and replaced. The horn itself does work when connected in an alternate method. Trying to find wiring from steering column to horn to determine issue. Any wiring diagram that shows color of horn wire from steering column and route it takes
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I am trying to hook up my power door locks to my command start. I am having trouble getting it to work. Ive tried a number of relay diagrams from the12volt.com. I've tried actuators/reverse polarity and it blows both my factory door lock fuse and the fuse I have supplied to the relays. Ive also tried 5 wire alternating 12 volt positive door locks, and 3 wire positive door lock combinations. Both of these combinations the relays click back and forth fine with the actuators unhooked, when I connect the actuators the doors unlock with the factory switch but when I unlock with my remote it blows the fuse. How to properly connect the actuators?
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After the standard alarm of my 2004 Vue sounded the horn continuously, the only way I could shut it off was to pull the horn relay. I put the horn relay back, but now the horn doesn't work. How can I get the horn to work? The service vehicle light came on after this happened.
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I have a 2005 Ford Explorer and a few days ago it wouldn't start, it just clicked and the lights flashed. I put it on a charger overnight and it started right up. I took it to Autozone and he tested the starter, alternator and battery and said everything was green. It was fine until yesterday when I started it up and it ran a self test and gave me:
Ignition Key B
Serial # 00075194
Part # 4L2T-10849-CK
Diagnostic Trouble Code : 9318,9352 and D900
I looked through my manuals and can't find anything with codes. My friend says batteries don't last long in Florida, I have only been here a year from Michigan. I bought the truck in 2008 and have never replaced the battery. The guy at Autozone was reluctant to sell me a battery because he didn't think I needed one. I have never had any problems with this vehicle.
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A couple months ago my VW Passat started locking itself and sounding the horn spontaneously, and now it is rolling down the windows randomly as well. My key isn't in the ignition when this happens. I got locked out once which was annoying, but now the windows rolling down make it a security issue and I really don't want the windows down in a parking lot during the next snowstorm. The heater quit working last week, too.
The car is only 2 years old and the dealership said they can fix the heater but they aren't sure what would be wrong with the spontaneous horn/window/locking problems.
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I have a 2008 Prius. I drove it around in Florida for a few days and everything ran great, but about 4 hours into the trip back to Minnesota, the red ! triangle light came on with a message on the display screen. It said "There is a problem with the transmission "P" lock mechanism Park your your car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake." This happened as I was driving, so I pulled over and did what it told me. After shutting down the car, I tried starting it back up and none of the gears worked. P, R, D, or B.
The message still displayed and the red ! light was still on. After shutting it on off several times, it finally started. No warnings. I found the nearest Toyota dealer and had them check it out. They found nothing but one short circuit, around the same time the warning lights would have gone on. I googled the problem, and it seemed like everyone was saying the problem is caused by a bad 12V battery, so I told the dealer to put in a new one. I was on the road again. However, the first stop I made for gas and sure enough, the light came back and I couldn't get it into a gear without restarting the car several times. I just hope I won't need to spend any more money on this 2 year old car.
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