A warm startup on my 2007 Explorer causes an RPM spike and subsequent stall (half of the time) on the way back down. I've tried a fuel additive, Ford ran codes with no problems...
View 6 RepliesMy 2004 ford explorer 4.0 has this issue where the check gauges will come on for 2-3 sec, then the temp gauge will go from normal and peg to hot and as soon as it pegs it drops right back down to normal. I have had the thermostat replaced and have flushed the radiator. I am at a loss here....
View 3 RepliesI've got a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 pickup. It's got 145k miles. I've been using Costco gas in it for the last two years with no problems. One day, it randomly decided to start stalling out on me. It stalled out 3 times driving at low speed. I didn't have time to work on it, so I just put some good Exxon gas in there and hoped for the best until I could look into it further. Problem went away. I cleaned out the IAC for good measure. When I finished up that tank of gas a few days later, I went back to Costco. The truck begins stalling again. Is there a problem with the gas? Or is there something I should look at on my truck?
View 6 RepliesQuestion about my mom's 2010 ES350.
This morning, it wouldn't start. She tried it a second time, and it started. But...
Upon every subsequent start-up, the LCD in the gauges displays "CHECK COMPLETED".
Car runs and drives fine, otherwise. The security light does go off like it should.
The RPM gauge began surging, which caused my car to stall. Restarted the car and the surging began again as well as the check engine light came on. After a mile or so, the surging stopped and the engine light went off. Drove to Toyota dealership, ran diagnostic and was told 'possible' air fuel filter problem. No surging since the diagnostic. Should I follow-up and have this looked into or just let it be? 2009 XLE 4 Cylinder ....
View 2 RepliesSo, I have a 97 f150 with a 4.6 that idles low, around 5-600 all the time, and stalls in warm weather only. I just cleaned the IAC to no avail..
View 8 RepliesI suspect my rear driveshaft is causing the vibration/noise I thought was coming from the front. I posted a few days ago about how I suspected it was my front wheel bearings making noise. Now its vibrating real bad and feels like a universal joint.
Can I pull the rear driveshaft out and drive off the front wheels with the switch in the 4x4 position? Last year my wife drove for a few days with no front driveshaft as I had one on order. It worked fine, for that.
I just want to go for a test drive to make sure that its the rear shaft, and not something else.
I have problem with an occasional stall that occurs when the engine is warm and slowing to a stop. I have a 1994 fuel injected E-350 460ci motor home. The engine runs great 90% of the time. When cold or sitting the vehicle will start and idle great. After warming up 5-100 miles occasionally I will slow down to stop, the rmps will fluctuate from 400 to 750 rpm as will the vacuum then die. The engine will start up fine but idle roughly wanting to die again during this period. Once the rpms are above 1000 and put into gear the engine will take off and accelerate great. This stalling tendency will last about 15 minutes (if I stop) then appear to go away and not reoccur during that trip.
At high speed and hill climbing the engine does great. It has occurred once on each of my last 4 trips. I have had suggestions about: the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and possibly the crank sensor. I'm trying to figure the best sequence on working this problem up. It might be tough in that the problem seems to go away after about 15 minutes regardless if the engine sits or is run.A few more notes: the rpm and vacuum are great and steady until the problem kicks in. Last summer a shop replaced: the computer, alternator, spark plugs, egr valve, and fuel filter. I think the parts were just replaced till the problem resolved. The problem (unrelated) seemed to be resolved after the work was done though.
I have a raspy exhaust leak sounding noise when I start my 2003 GTi 1.8t that cuts off just a few minutes after I start the car and a fellow owner told me he thought it was a vacuum pump that has rivets that fail and allow the case to separate and cause this noise. Where this pump is located? This former coworker of mine said he replaced the rivets with long slender screws and nuts after removing the rivets but I lost contact with him and don't know where this pump is located.
View 2 RepliesOkay so my dads 93 explorer seems like its starving for gas, it cuts out almost like its going to stall, hasn't stalled yet, but it seems like its not getting enough gas, new fuel filter and still having the same problem, fuel pump isn't that old either, just started doing it maybe thursday. We haven't really looked much into it yet, but what it could be?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford F-250 5.4l the symptoms are when it's warm it has half power and it will stall at idle. What I have done with the truck is.
New cam phasers
new chain
new tensioners
new vct solenoids
new oil pump
new plugs
new ignition coils
new stock cam shafts
new rockers
new lash adjusters
new exhaust manifolds both sides
new muffler
oil change with the right oil
ran it with sea foam in the crankcase before oil change
new fuel pump module
new evap vent control
new abs speed sensor
I cleaned throttle body with brake cleaner ... Scanned it after a 15 min ride of having to use 2 feet to drive it. The engine codes that came up are p0022 iacv short to ground and p1000 readiness test not complete. I also got p1804 4 wheel drive high indicator circuit failure p1808 4 wheel drive low indicator circuit failure .... Not sure what else to try.
I have a 99 Honda Accord, 94 K miles, received from Philadelphia last fall. When the car is cold, it idles when stopped (e.g. at a light) fine, but when it warms up, it idles so low it feels like it will stall. Also, once parked, or sometimes idling, a smell of rotten eggs comes form the exhaust. The check engine light remains on, though I replaced the gas cap. Is altitude the culprit? How to fix? It was serviced before I received it and I've changed the oil at 3 K miles once. I mostly drive low miles, locally.
View 4 RepliesWhat's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
I have a 2015 Elantra GT. Car has been great up until the last month. I have been getting in car and starting it. It starts and immediately stalls. You turn key off and then try starting again and the engine turns over but does not start. I am pretty sure it is a security problem. If you arm car then unarm it will start again and is fine. the problem is completely sporadic. Just last week I came out of work, turned car on,, it stalled immediately tried to start again and engine just turned over. armed and dis armed security with no luck.
Called a tow Truck and he ended up disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for 5 seconds and then reconnecting. The car started right away and was fine for a few days and now has stalled a couple times since immediately after starting but now if you try again it starts. I had it at the dealership today to have it checked, there are no codes and they could not simulate the problem so for now I have to live with it. I use this car for work and count on it to start each time. I should also mention it has a remote car starter that was put in by a separate company but was done through the dealership when the car was first purchased.
My truck is a 1995 Explorer 4.0 150,000 miles, 5 speed.
Problem - Rough idle : when cold it's worse and will stall and choke a little. When warmed up it just has a rough idle but will not stall and stays at a pretty constant RPM. It's very tolerable when warmed up but still not right. It drives fine once off idle. No black smoke that I can see. Power may be just a little off but I would not bet on it. MPG seems about normal but haven't been on a long enough trip since problem started to tell for sure. Also longer than normal cranking on occasion.
Diagnostics so far : Fuel pressure is at 32 PSI, vacuum off regulator it's at 40 PSI. Not sure about key on only as I don't trust the autozone loaner gauges. You have to fiddle with it each time before it will read. Leak down after 30 minutes was about 4 PSI
No Check engine light ever. KOEO test shows no hard or on demand codes, I get the 111 pass. From CM I get 336 and 45.
336 is EGR related and my looks pretty rusty. I put a vacuum pump on it while running and the EGR held vacuum but had no effect at all on idle, I was expecting it to get worse as I opened the EGR so it may be stuck.
Searched high and low for vacuum leaks by ear, visual and with starting fluid all turned up nothing.
Actions so far : Replaced plugs, wires, IAC, and fuel filter. Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body plus ran lucas fuel injector cleaner through it.
Next steps : I've got the EGR but it's so rusty I am sure I'll break the tube it bolts to plus I don't know it that alone will cause the rough idle. Will the DPFE sensor and/or EVR create a rough idle yet not turn on the CEL?
Thought about changing the fuel pump and/or regulator but the numbers are not terrible. Agree?
Thought about changing the intake gaskets but don't see any leaks.
I have a 06 Passat with a V6 with 80K on it. Recently I have been getting intermittent stalling at start up, only when the engine is warm(but once on a really hot day). The car will rev slightly and stall. After several attempts, it will start, and then it runs fine. VW service said no error codes and didn't offer much more.
View 10 RepliesMy sister has a 2001 Prius w/ 150k miles. She asked me if I could shut off her check engine light. From what she tells me 1-2 times a year on very hot days (high 90s) when she starts the car it will stumble and stall (been happening since 03 when she got it).
I took it to autozone to get the codes which were:
P0300 - I assume all the misfire codes are from it stalling
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304
P1636
P3002
Since she said it was normal for the car I just cleared the codes for her. She did have this checked out one time at a dealership when the car was under warranty and they found nothing wrong and blamed it on the weather.
I searched the forums for 1636 and 3002 codes the 12v battery seems like it could be a likely culprit (it is the original battery as far as she knows). A few weeks passed while I was researching the codes and the battery options and she had another problem. (still haven't ordered the battery yet)
She says the car loses engine power 1-2 times a week (she drive 4-500mi a week). The dash stays lit up and the power comes back quickly. Sometimes while accelerating it will just stop accelerating and then go back to normal, or on the highway it will slow down and then be back to normal. Check engine light is back on and the new codes are:
P0420
P1636
P3002
I'm going to get a new battery ordered today but I'm kind of skeptical that it has anything to do with this new problem.
A few weeks back I had an issue with my transmission, while moving the vehicle I noticed white smoke when starting the engine that would go away after a couple seconds.
If I let the engine warm up, it starts smoking again, removing the radiator cap and it stops smoking. I have checked spark plugs, fuel injectors, cylinders for water, but cannot find water anywhere. No water is showing up in the oil either. The transmission repair is on hold (hoping to just replace solenoid pack) while I try to figure out the engine issue. But at this point I am not sure what could be causing the smoke.
It's white smoke, 4.6 v8 on a 2008 Explorer. Is it the head gasket? Or am I overlooking something?
I just bought a 2007 f150 4x4 5.4 triton with 69 thousand miles less than a month ago. Since then the transmission has been rebuild but come to find out a misfire will cause overdrive to act up, and it just recently started misfiring badly. It was throwing a code. 2 coils were replaced and still misfiring. It's not throwing a code anymore. No check engine light flashing or nothing.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2007 F350 CCSB 6.0 auto 4x4 with 113k miles on it, it does have the 5th wheel goose neck trailer hitch in the bed...anyway of course when I looked at the rig everything checked out and now I am getting a U1900 for ABS CAN communication...I should add that the ABS Light itself is not on, just the CEL...I have a feeling it has something to do with the wiring that the PO maybe had done to wire for his 5th wheel hitch?...I checked all the ABS related fuses in both fuse boxes and they're all fine...
While reading another post on the possibility of the brake pedal position switch up on the pedal itself being bad, someone mentioned that the wiring may be jacked up due someone adding wiring in for the 5th wheel hitch...I also checked the brake pressure switch on the nose of the master cylinder and that looked clean although I didn't test it...should I just replace these since they're pretty cheap or is there something I should look for in the wiring underneath the dash? Oh and of course my cruise control isn't working either...likely because of this ABS wiring issue..
My Ford Explorer blows warm air instead of hot air and it's getting colder and my windows get fogged up. I fixed my clicking sound behind the dash.
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