Ford - Explorer :: 2007 V6 Radiator Leaking - No Transmission Dipstick To Check The Fluid
Jun 17, 2012
I have 2007 sport trac 4.0 liter V6. I have noticed for the past week or so that I have antifreeze leaking from the bottom of the radiator and I had to add some coolant to it the other day(1/2 gallon). I know it is the radiator leaking and not the overflow so I am going to go head and order me a radiator and change it. I have read that some of the replacement radiators was not lasting but about a year before they leaked.From what I have read on the internet a lot of ford owners is having this same problem with the radiator leaking at around 60,000 miles. Also there is no transmission dip stick to check the fluid, will I lose enough fluid that it hurt the transmission. I have just had the 60,000 mile transmission service done.
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2009 Ford Explorer - 6cyl - 4L - auto trans - 35K miles. I'd like to change the automatic transmission fluid, but as some may already know, there is no dipstick on these vehicles. I have one of those hand pumps which will fit on the quart bottles and I'd be able to pump new fluid in (through where the drain torx bolt is). My question is: How do you know when the fluid level is correct when re-filling and then checking ? Also, I'm assuming that this has to be checked while the vehicle is running and in park ?
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I have 95 Aurora with 200,000 miles and the transmission is slipping. When I check fluid cold their is nothing on stick, when hot the fluid id bubbling and overfull. Should I change the filter and fluid or will this hurt the car?
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I cannot find the transmission dipstick to check the trans fluid? I looked in the owners manual also and I can't find it.
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I took my 1993 Ford Explorer for an oil change they told me I also needed a rear differential service and a transmission service, so I told them to go ahead (this was on a wednesday). On friday the car broke down leaking transmission fluid (reddish oil). The clutch was making a sound when pushed in and we were not able to shift. I towed it back to the place where the oil was changed the gentelman open something under the car and he said that it had transmission fluid. He got on the car turned on and push the clutch when he did that a lot of fluid began coming out (reddish oil). He said it was the clutch that went out. We think they messed up the transmission. I towed the truck to a garage and the guy mentioned something about a plug related to the transmission. Could the oil people have done something wrong to the transmission that made the car break down???
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I had an 02 Explorer for years now and absolutely love it. It has almost 170,000 miles on it and is definitely showing its age. There's alot of rust underneath and ive been replacing things as they break. For about a year now I've been dealing with the transmission leaking fluid. This vehicle doesn't have a transmission dipstick and has to be filled from underneath. When I have the transmission full of fluid it works perfectly until recently. Now, when I go up a hill the transmission goes into an almost neutral state.
The R.P.M's will go up past 4000 and I'll have to stop. It doesn't misfire or bog down, just acts as if the tranny is in neutral. Sometimes I just sit there for a minute and its fine, other times I haven't been as lucky. In one instance I had to sit there for about 20 minutes, in another I disconnected the battery to reset everything, and on another instance it would stall out the moment I put it in gear. I know it's a little low on fluid and will be getting it filled again soon. I plan on possibly getting a new transmission this winter, but gotta keep it going till then.
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My wife has a 2007 Toyota Sequoia with only 17,000 miles on it (as of Mar 2013). It has had regular scheduled maintenance - engine oil changes, etc. However, due to low mileage, it has never had Transmission or Radiator fluid changed. All miles have been in town, short trips. Is there a need to have these fluids changed just due to the age of the Sequoia and type of miles driven. It is an expense I would rather not do unless necessary. We do plan on keeping it to well past 100,000 miles. Considering the age and miles, is there anything else that I should be watchful for or take action on?
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Here's the scoop, was driving down the freeway the other day, car is a 2001 PT Cruiser going about 65-70 MPH when all the sudden it felt as if I had hit something, a loud bump sound which came from underneath the engine, then an immediate reduction in speed and acceleration. After that, I was trying to accelerate the car, the RPMs were revving like crazy but the car would not go more than 15 MPH, while the RPMs were revving and revving, almost as if I was in park.
Got the car to the side of the road, opened the hood and found that the top of the dipstick (transmission) had blown off and shot transmission fluid all over the engine. Unsure of why this happened but sure that was what the loud sound was before the drastic drop in acceleration.
After that I had the car towed to my house, now it will start, but not drive in reverse at all, i'm afraid to try driving it to inspect it further but that's pretty much where I am at right now. There's 117k miles on this car...
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I was changing my oil the other week and when i went to pull the filter I noticed that my tranny pan was wet around the front side, as well as the flywheel insp. plate, and the tranny dipstick tube. It wasn't even enough to drip on my driveway, but wet none the less. after cleaning it up really well and driving it around for 15 minutes it seemed to be coming from the dipstick tube about halfway between where it seats in the tranny and top end of the dipstick.
Removing the tube was easy, just one 10 mm bolt on the back of the engine. After further insp, there was a small piece of insulation on the tube where it passes between the engine and exhaust manifold. when i removed that insulation i noticed there was rust on both the top and bottom of where the insulation sits. i looked it over really well and didnt' see any cracks or holes. I then pluged one end and blew into the other and didnt' notice a loss of pressure or any hissing noise.
I figured if it wasn't leaking and it was already out i might as well clean off the rust and hit it with some paint. I ran a wire brush over the lowest spot of rust and what do you know, 3 tiny little pin holes. I used some 2 part apoxy from work and some aluminum duct tape to repair the hole temporarily until i got the new part in the mail yesterday. total install took around 10 minutes.
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So I have been told I need to have the transmission fluid changed in my GX470 by the dealer. They have said that off and on when I take it in for an oil change or some other services since 60K miles. I have never felt a difference in the transmission performance and have had no 'quirks' with it like I have had with other cars when the trans fluid is nearing the end of its useful life.
So I am concerned that since it is a 'sealed' unit that has no dipstick to check the fluid condition, they have a 'safe' way to tell me I need an expensive service when I really do not.
I am not afraid to work on my cars (I used to work on my cars including my built up rotary with a street port) but have just been too busy to do that stuff for the past 15+ years and am starting to get back into maintaining my own cars again.
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I have the 4r75e transmission. Last week I was driving for about 20-30 mins when my transmission fluid started to boiled and came out the dipstick tube. I let it cool off then took my time and drove it home. I know my transmission is not shot because I am getting full power on the transmission. After I got home I checked the fluid level and it's good, then I disconnect the transmission fluid lines on the transmission to see if I am having flow, but no luck...
I took my air hose and blew the lines out and they were clear. I also blew into the transmission thru the ports where the lines were connected. I started the truck up and the fluid came out with full force about 1-2qarts came out before I shut the truck off. I was all excited and I connected all the lines And started the truck to go for a test drive but my gut told me to disconnect the line to see if I am still having a flow and as suspected no flow...
I took off the lines that connected to the transmission and still no flow. I blew the air into the transmission again and started the truck up and bam I have flow again for about 20 seconds... I shut the truck off and I decided to connected the lines back to the transmission and I disconnected the lines about 12" away from the transmission to put a clear hose that connected both lines to make a loop.
Started the truck and there was no flow, I disconnected the 5/8 nut on the transmission and blew the air into the transmission. Started the truck and only got a few dribbles. I check the fluid level and it's still good. I am stuck and don't know what to do... What part of the transmission send the hot fluid out to the cool. The valve body? The main pump? The solenoid???
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I have a 97 F-150 and my Radiator fluid has been leaking very bad but hasn't been taking the fluid from overflow tank. Actually the new fluid that I put in the overflow has now turned a rusty color....
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On my recently purchased 2013 Camry with DUAL VVT-i on the engine I cannot locate the transmission fluid dipstick.. I have ordered the owners's manual but it has not arrived.
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My husband is now installing the 3rd radiator in my 2009 Subaru Outback. It appears that road debris is being kicked up into the radiator and putting holes in it, which then leaks out fluid. Is there something that is supposed to be under the radiator to protect it from this happening. My husband thinks it is just that the parts are made very cheaply now and therefore not reliable.
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If my coolant temp runs around 185, how does the the radiator to cool the transmission fluid if it goes to the radiator after the tranny cooler?
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I am checking the tranny fluid level in my daughter's 2007 4 cyl Camry tomorrow.
This tranny has the dipstick and each time we try to check the fluid level with the dip stick we are not sure if we are getting a good reading or not.
What's the trick to it. Should the tranny fluid be at a certain temp before checking? I don't have the manual with me so I'm trying to find the procedure.
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. 215K miles. Original Owner. When it is cold there is a very light leaking of brake fluid at the base of the master cylinder where it meets the brake booster. This morning it was 14 degrees and there was a much bigger leak. Filled it back up and went to work. I'm thinking its about time I took care of it. I've had the the master cylinder replaced once at Goodyear Auto Service Center years ago.
I'll post a picture later but having the leak where it is. Would that be a replacement of both the master cylinder and brake booster? How can you tell? Or is it better just to change out both. Having done more work on my car over years I feel I can do the work myself. Plus the master cylinder is only like $50 and $60 for the brake booster.
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I had a small leak in my 94 Explorer which was getting on the compressor pulley and being splattered around the engine compartment. The fluid was green like antifreeze--which didn't make sense; why would antifreeze be leaking from the air con compressor? But as an experiment, I got a non-AC belt and ran the truck without the compressor pulley turning, and the leak has stopped! The level in the coolant overflow tank has dropped an inch or two in the last 500 or so miles. Is it possible that antifreeze is getting into the air con system somehow, like through an internal leak in the heater core?
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My car started leaking fluid and can't find the leak.radiator is too hot to open to look. it's a 2007 ford van, with 133,000 miles on it mechanic looked at engine and could find no leak - what to do?
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I'm pretty sure I have a blown head gasket. I have white smoke coming out of exhaust and the oil is brownish in color indicating radiator fluid is leaking into engine. The car has over 200K on it. I purchased Steel Seal. The guy I talked to from Steel Seal said if radiator fluid is dirty (which it is)than I should flush radiator before using product. I don't have money to replace the gasket and I don't have money for a new car right now. Can this be a fix that gets me through a couple months?
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My transmission cooling line is leaking. It leaks where it connects to the radiator. Im not sure how I go about removing the connection from the radiator. It is tough to tell from the rust on the connection weather or not I can use a wrench on it. I have read here that there are cooling lines in this part of the radiator for the transmission. Is it serviceable or do I need a new radiator. I dont want to touch it until I know what I'm looking at.
05 F250 5.4L 4x4
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