Ford - Explorer :: 2007 - Misfire On 4 - Replaced Fuel Filter - Gurgling Noise While Removing Gas Cap?
Feb 26, 2013
Problem started when the fuel supply was low, she had to floorboard it to get on the interstate, keep getting cel, misfire #4.....I replaced fuel filter, had a little water causing the plug to arc....had a mechanic replace the plug.....at startup cold, cel is off and it doesn't miss, after it warms up, light comes back on and starts to miss. I have ran every type of fuel cleaner in it, even used a three step cleaner for throttle body, vacuum system, and tank. I just poured sea foam into the tank and trying that, I noticed a gurgling noise when I removed the gas cap. I'm thinking #4 injector is stopped up.. I recently replaced all the coil boots.....kept getting condensation in the boot (she has been washing the underside at the car wash).....the truck has the 4.6 and has 85,000 miles, it is an 07 sport trac.....
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I'm getting a loud gurgling type pump noise when removing the fuel cap. It is really something I have never heard before on any vehicle. It's not a quick hissing noise. It is a constant motor type noise coming from the fuel filler. I tried it again today because the dealer was there, but since I have a 1/2 tank of gas it did not happen.
Each time I have needed to fuel up, I've heard it. So I suspect this noise occurs when the tank is low...within 3-4 gallons left.
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
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Where it is V8? I did a search on here and came up empty. I haven't physically looked for it on the vehicle yet. I'll be changing oil this weekend and I'd like to change the fuel filter while I'm at it.
Almost forgot, it has the 4.6L V8.
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I've been using the 'special' plastic ring tool to try and separate the lines from the filter, but with no joy. I can feel the tool compress the spring(?) on both fittings, but no matter how hard I am able to pull the lines won't come off.
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Ok, I've replaced the fuel filter today and my truck still won't start. Checked fuses, and Fuel relay (19th slot). I've found the red fuel switch and it doesn't depress so I suspect it isn't tripped. I'm out of my league if I have a fuel pump problem.
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I have removed this filter before but last oil change I took it to a garage as it was too cold for my liking to change oil. The cap is now stuck on very tight. This one has a plastic 27 mm lug on top with an arrow clearly pointing clockwise. I am assuming that means to turn clockwise (or reverse thread) to remove it. It simply won't budge.
I read the post where someone broke the plastic top on the housing and I do not want to have that happen. How to confirm that the oil filter top is reverse thread?
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The other day I was driving down the road on a long, flat section and all of a sudden my truck started missing out of the blue. Ever since it started missing it hasn't stopped. The truck is an '89 Ranger, 2.3l, 5 spd. The plugs and wires were replaced last year along with the timing belt and fuel pump. It has been running great since then until now. I thought maybe it might be a clogged fuel filter so I replaced that but it didn't work. Also, it doesn't miss all the time. It doesn't miss when its idling or if you are going down the road while it is missing and slowly release the gas pedal it reaches a point while you are letting the pedal up where it will even out. It definitely seems like it is an "under load missing" scenario. Also, the Check Engine Light is not on. Where should I start looking?
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Replaced fuel filter. Got all 4 washers plus cap from old filter. Engine won't start. Saw there is a fifth rubber washer that nobody mentions anywhere and transferred that to the new pump. still won't run.
When I turn the key to On, I can hear the pump turn on for 2 secs and stop. if I do this 5-6 times and then try to start, engine will start and then die immediately. seems the pump is not pumping when the engine tries to run. it pumps only for two secs when the key goes from Off to On position.
There are two lines going to the pump. which one feeds the engine. if I disconnect that line, should I see fuel coming out when I turn the key and try to start the engine?? or is there a better place to disconnect closer to the engine??
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I have a broken gas gauge so i pretty much run it until its empty. Has been fine but just died about a week ago. Nothing else was wrong with it. Worked and ran great after for about a week then i went to start and it did the same thing. I have listened for the fuel pump and it sounds like its working. I have not checked the fuses...I am curious what else it could be if after one week with a fuel filter it would do it again
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I just changed the drain valve on the fuel filter bowl. All went well and no more leak, but now I am getting an "emission system" warning light.
After I replaced the valve, I filled the fuel bowl with diesel fuel. Was there any other priming that needed to be done (if any)? What the emission system warning light may mean?
2002 F250 7.3L 4x4.
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2001 Sport trac, we are throwing a large leak evap code. The check fuel cap light came on and went out after replacing the cap, but we are still getting the code. Is there a known problem area to look at or is it a job for the smoke machine?
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2003 f550 with 7.3, suddenly loses power and struggles while driving. White/blue smoke comes from tailpipe, can smell the diesel exhaust bad when happens, comes and goes intermittently but has been happening more and more often. I uploaded a video onto YouTube to show sound, rough running motor and smoke from exhaust although smoke not that bad in video. Search "shadetreelandscaping" on YouTube in case link below doesn't work.
ShadeTreeLandscaping - YouTube
Took to ford dealer a few diff times for problem and they can't get any codes, can't duplicate problem. After it being in for third time they say had to call ford tech hotline and they suggest replacing injector however can not and will not gaurntee that will solve problem, and obviously dealer isn't cheap for repair. I find it hard to believe that a bad injector(s) would be an intermittent problem as it is or that it would cause fuel pump to make gurgling sound.
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Did the cam sync replacement on my 96 explorer awd 5.0 l had the tool dropped the sync got it back to where the last one was. Followed the procedure pretty close I did forget to remove the battery cable. So here is the issue I now have 0 fuel to the rail. is there something I might have messed up or left unplugged that would cause this. Did my fuel pump poop out the same time my sync did. I am stumped as even where to start .
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2008 base model. A couple of years ago, I noticed whenever I changed my climate controls to defrost or bi-level, there was a 'gurgling' noise coming from behind the panel as the mechanism switched. Several months ago, the gurgling stopped as did the ability for me to change where the fans vents. Right now it is stuck on bi-level. something similar happened in a work truck the other day and I easily traced it to a small tube that had detached from a plug. I am wondering if the climate controls in the Santa Fe are also vacuum controlled and, if so, where might I find this tube?
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After replacing fuel filter, pump relay, and air filter for good measure my 2002 f250 v10 gas engine still wont start. What to do?
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Dumb question but how do I remove the air filter intake from the turbo Its a little oily there from a fuel or oil leak but I dont see a clamp holding it on the turbo?
Also what is the e clip? Is it the little thing holding the wastegate rod on the exhaust turbine? Can I just pull the rod up off the clip?
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I have an isspro gauge and did the blue spring about 5 years ago. Since then my fuel pressure is in the 65psi range.
Last week it dropped to 50-55 normal driving and I figured the HFCM was on it's way out (195,000 miles). Replaced the HFCM and the pressure was a bit higher, but not back to it's usual range. Then pulling the boat home from the lake a couple days ago, I saw it at 45psi. On a couple hills it went as low as 40 psi, so I was getting gripped...coasting downhill it only went back up to 50 psi and no higher. Got 'er home and currently not driving it.
In garage with Key On Engine Off, during injector buzz, I can hear a hissing/air noise at the upper filter bowl. Also, the bowl drains empty once the pump cuts off and the sound of air stops too.
I am hoping it's a regulator issue, but I don't know if they are known to wear out or go bad, or if something else in the upper filter housing went bad. So I ordered a new upper fuel filter housing which also has the oil filter tower attached and I'm assuming that these new units would come with the blue spring upgrade already done.
I can check for codes tomorrow when I bring my computer home from work, so I haven't checked for codes yet. I pick up the new filter housing tomorrow and will periodically check back here during the day tomorrow.
Also, while I'm at it: the new HFCM doesn't have the heater. Can I just leave the old connector from the harness un-connected to anything?
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My wife's 08 santa fe had its fuel pump replaced 2 weeks ago and has been smelling like gas ever since. I thought this would go away but it hasn't. Should I demand it be towed back to the dealer tomorrow?
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My 07 xlt 4x2 4.6 (49700 miles) started missing a couple of weeks ago. Did it for 2 days, the Check Engine light came on, then it quit missing and ran normal. CE light was still on, so I had the code read and reset light. Got two codes: ignition missfire #8, and rich fuel. I assume the rich fuel was caused by raw gas in the exhaust.
Anyway, the truck ran fine for two or three days then started missing again. Checked #8 by taking the wiring connector off #8 COP - rough idle unchanged. Pulled COP off #8 and #7 and swapped. Rough idle unchanged and confirmed miss was still #8 by pulling COP connector. With #8 connected, disconnected #7 (with COP from 8) idle was significantly worse.
Replaced #8 plug. Same miss. What to check next?
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Well, I last summer my fuel filter/ pump started squealing, and making vibrating noise, replaced the fuel filter changed the noise slightly, some times it would go away, sometimes the line going to the filter under the hood would vibrate, couple weeks ago truck warning light came on- "low fuel pressure warning" came on, hum... went out, came on a couple days later, then finally put me into limp mode, luckly only 1/2 mile from home... checked filter on frame/ tightness, it was tight, the pump on the filter housing was very noisey still, well, I figured 200 dollars cheaper than taking to ford....
I waited and pump arrived 3 days later, replaced it and low pressure warning still on, but pump was very quiet, and when I restarted low pressure warning and reduced power came on in driveway, hum.... I thought code was still in computer, I disconnected battery and turned headlights on to try and kill the code, started it and now the engine light came on, nothing else, and truck ran fine....hum.... went to autozone, and they pulled the code, low fuel rail pressure, p0087, guy said to drive and code should go off, truck runs fine. Drove truck a couple days and engine light went off, Truck runs great.......All is good.
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