Ford - Explorer :: 2007 - Interior Lights Occasionally Come On While Driving
Dec 12, 2016
I just acquired a 2007 explorer and have a little issue where the interior lights occasionally come on while driving. Did a little investigation and found that when I wiggle the ignition key the lights come on. Also noticed that when vehicle is shut off and door is open, I can wiggle the key and the "key in ignition" chime is intermittent. I'm guessing I need a new ignition switch and have a few questions regarding replacement of the switch.
I'm assuming the ignition keys have the chip in them and was wondering if I will have to reprogram keys or the switch or whatever...And if reprogramming is necessary, is it something that I can do myself?? Also, it looks as if I can replace the switch separate of the ignition lock cylinder. Will just replacing the switch fix my problem or do I need to replace the lock cylinder tumbler assembly as well??
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I recently purchased a 2011 Sonata GLS and I love it. However, I'm having a slight electrical issue.
While driving at night with the headlights on occasionally they'll dim and flicker and often cut off completely while driving or parked. The interior and dash lights will also switch off with the headlights, however the radio will still continue to play. The lights only stay off for a second and then come back on. Sometimes I can make them flicker and go off by turning on my blinker or switching between high and low beams.
I'm trying to figure out if it's a problem with the alternator, the battery, or the fuses and if this is a known issue.
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I have a 1997 explorer sport. I can get out lock the doors and as I am walking away, it will unlock it self. Also I have noticed when looking out the window at it at night that the interior lights will go on as if I was unlocking the vehicle.
I have even noted when I get into the truck in the morning, sometimes it continues to try and unlock it self when it is already unlocked. I know that the little security light in the dash does not come on anymore when I lock it.
Replacing the Remote Anti-theft Personality (RAP) module? Is this the black box in the left rear fender with my door code on it?
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I have a moonroof & there were no map light bulbs, so I tried putting them in place but the electric connection there wasn't so good (there is a plastic covered with wires) so the bulbs are in but it doesn't work. What worst is, that now all the interior lights (glove box & rear dome) don't work as well!! nor the power windows & moonroof don't work now (it worked before). I guess that I have touched something or a fuse broke... I don't know what to do...
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I have a 1997 explorer 5.0 AWD. The problem is that when it is about 44 degrees and below, the windshield wipers, power windows, and interior lights don't and won't work. We will run the heater until it warms up the interior, then everything seems to work fine. I usually leave the wipers on so I know when it is warmed up enough. I have checked all of the fuses and all are fine. the only thing that I can think of is there is a crack in the back of the fuseblock that breaks contact when the metal is cold.
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L V8 4X4 Supercab. I developed a problem with my interior lights where they will come on randomly while I was driving. After many hours spent searching for an answer online, I found this thread:
[URL] ....
What I picked up from that thread that was useful was that if I tapped next to the dimmer/light switch panel my lights would go off.
Since all of the interior lights go through the instrument cluster I figured I would start there but it proved to be fruitless.
The next step I took was to look at the wiring diagram for the interior lights and try to figure it out there. They proved useful in that I was able to figure out that it wasn't an issue with a relay or fuse and led to me looking for the Green/Orange circuit, which I discovered I don't have but pointed me towards the Black/Blue circuit.
I thought I might have a wire loose inside the light switch so I started to remove it and take it apart to hopefully find something. To remove the light switch place a flathead screwdriver under the panel and pop it loose.
From there you can get a finger underneath and pull it out completely. Next you'll want to remove the wires by pressing on the clips pictured below
There are three screws you need to remove to get to the circuit boards underneath...
Removing the actual light switch was tricky because there are two tabs pictured below and you have to finagle the switch out...
Once you have that removed you'll be able to see two clips at the very bottom of the switch enclosure. This step was very hard and I had to get support. The two clips at the bottom have to be pushed and you have to pull the circuit board at the same time. I chose to have my assistant push from the bottom while I pushed the pins out of the way.
Once you have the circuit board out you can remove the dimmer by pushing on these four tabs
Once you have this removed you will see a circuit board with some gel on it. My circuit board had an excessive amount that was causing the electric current to jump and by-pass the Dome Defeat. After removing some of the gel I reassembled and put back in. I did it earlier today and only time will tell if I truly did fix it but based off the amount of gel and my inability to find another cause I am hopeful that this was a fix. The dimmer appeared to work better immediately afterwards.
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When I'm driving the interior lights will come on all by themselves. This also happens when I park, day or night. Actually had to get a jump when I left the truck for 5 days at the airport.
Quick fix...mild tap to either the dimmer/light switch panel or just to the right of the panel. Goes out for a while and then back.
Extended Fixes:
- Cleaned contacts on old dimmer and light switch...no good
- Replaced dimmer/light switch panel...no good
- Cleaned and sprayed WD-40 on all latches...nope
- Looking for "loose" wiring...nope
This is a 2005 Lariat w/autolamps etc. Problem existed before I met a deer at 60 MPH and had a nice new set of fenders and front grill installed. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but cannot resolve the problem. The door ajar light stays off, so this leads me to believe it is not a door switch.
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My wife has been driving this Escape for about a year after driving one she inherited from her father to 162K miles. This one has just under 70K now.
In the last month or so, the interior lights have begun to come on and go off at will. It can happen going down the road, or sitting in the garage for hours. When it's running, the door chime may or may not sound. It sometimes comes on when it hits a bump, sometimes without one. I looked at it earlier, and the light was on. (I have turned the center one off. I don't see a way to turn off the front ones) An hour later the light is off. No one has been in the car since this afternoon.
She says the car is haunted, and is now calling it Casper, even though it's solid black.
I have tried the standard fix of lubricating the door latches several times. There are six latches including the rear hatch and rear window. I have used CRC electrical cleaner as well as subsequent doses of good old WD 40. I don't know if there is an easy why to tell which switch might be causing the problem, so I have taken the shotgun approach.
The two remaining bulbs are tiny, so the battery has not run completely down, YET. The car is driven almost daily, sometimes several times in a day. I'm beginning to think that the situation may not be caused by one of the door switches. What else can it be? Why does it cycle like that? I doubt that it's haunted.
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I have a 2008 Ford F-150 xlt with stock instrument cluster. I need a new instrument cluster due to my interior lights coming on while driving. I would like to make it look better and not go stock. Id like to have digital shift screen and good looking LED's. What all are my options?
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 SuperCrew Lariat (with Sunroof) that the Front Interior Dome Lights are not working in. I mention the Sunroof because there is a switch to operate the sunroof in the same panel as the front dome lights. The Sunroof switch works just fine though.
However, the back dome light does work. I would've thought these were on the same line but my thinking is probably wrong. So far I've pulled the front panel where the dome lights are located and checked the bulbs. The filaments are not broken at all and the bulbs seem to be good. I then went hunting for the Fuse box and looked through the user manual to see which fuse corresponds to those front lights. However, I've been unable to determine which fuse it is.
So I guess the questions I have are:
1.) Why the front dome lights would NOT be working and the rear dome lights are? Are these not on the same line?
2.) Which fuse corresponds to the front dome lights?
3.) What relay corresponds to the front dome lights?
4.) Do I need to disconnect the battery before messing with any of these fuses or relays?
Troubleshooting steps at this point?
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2004 jetta, interior lights & door open light on dashboard intermittently come on and off while driving.
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I picked up my V8 yesterday. Overall great car. I spent several hours at the dealer working out little things and doing some shakedown driving. So I finally am ready to pull the trigger. I pay, they hand me the keys, and I am off. It's now dark, the dealership is closing, and I have to drive home. I get in the car and the floor lights in the front (where your feet are) and in the floor of the rear cargo area won't go off. I play with every control in the car and cant get them off. The overhead lights turn off - no problem. Then I get home and turn the car off. They still wont go off. I have to pull the fuse to get them off so it wont run the battery down. Then I notice that the red instrument panel will not go off either - end up pulling that fuse too.
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My SO has a Hyundai Santa Fe - 03 2.4L with the 4 speed auto with 130500 miles.
While driving tonight, the interior lights started blinking. Which was kind of odd. Apparently when this happens, the tail lights (but not headlights) go out.
I did a quick bit of research on it and apparently there is a "bus" that goes bad and causes this. What is a "bus"? And how do I replace it? Is it something like a fuse that is getting corroded?
Also ... I think there may be something up with the a/c. When I turn on the A/C or defroster (any setting that activates the compressor), I smell a burning rubber smell in the dash. I'm not seeing the belt slip on the compressor and not hearing any slippage but there is a definite burning rubber smell. When the HVAC is on something that does not activate the AC Compressor (top vent) we do not get the smell.
Lastly, there are some transmission issues it seems. There is a shift flare between the 2-3 shift and the 3-OD shift sometimes is very firm/abrupt ... it appears to be locking the torque converter during a very hard shift.
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When I walk up to my 07 460 at night and the doors are locked, the interior lights come on once it senses my key fob. However, if the doors are unlocked, the interior lights do not come on and I get in the car in the dark and fumble around in the dark getting situated. Is there a setting that controls this so I can change it?
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The other day my daughter's 07 FSI v8 would not start; no power other than interior lights: no instrument power, no seat power, etc. Assumed a dead battery. Hooked jumper-cables, the fan start running, the panel came alive, it cranks, yet the air suspension lock is stuck on, EPS off is stuck on, etc.; assumed a dead battery caused all of this, since the alternator is pegging 14 and we have had a long cold spell. We drive it to the dealer an hour away to get the battery replaced; they test the battery and say its fine; no problems with the computer check-out. They say it must have been a random event; or something ran-down the battery (which is impossible, since you can't leave anything on).
No issues a week later, except I noticed the check-engine and the EPC amber lights are on. However, since my wife brought it back from the dealer, I don't know if these are error codes that were never reset from the initial event or if they are new. Will have to go back to the dealer to reset; check-out. My theory is the fan stuck on for some reason (since it will run independent of the cockpit power) and the battery charged-up on the one-hour drive to the dealer, thus all seemed OK to the dealer.
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We just purchased a 2007 Prius. Above the driver seat and passenger seat are two interior lights in the ceiling. Our manual only discusses the main interior light in the middle. The separate lights have on and off switches but neither work.how to turn these lights on??
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Just bought a used 2011 SF GLS and the interior lights weren't coming on. I engaged the "door" button on the back seat dome light and they now come on as they should when the doors are opened or closed. BUT I can't get the front map lights to come on at all when the door opens. Engaging the "door" button for the map lights doesn't do it.
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I just got myself 07 santa fe. Have small problem though. When I open the door interior lights are not going on, doesn't matter which door are open it is not working but I can turn them on manually, so fuse is fine I guess. What my be a cause of it?
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My 2007 Ford Sport Trac 4x4 with 47K on it, has a loud whining noise while driving. I checked the wheel bearings and there is no play side to side or up and down. No noise rotating the wheels. I noticed that both drive shafts turn while rotating a front wheel off the ground. No dash lights are on indicating it`s in 4 wheel drive. Could the 4x4 shift motor be bad and not disengaging 4 wheel drive ? Is there a way to check it ?
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I have a 2007 explorer that died while i was driving. We have changed the battery, alternator, spark plugs, fuel filter, and have checked the fuel pump, starter, throttle body. The truck cranks but wont kick over.
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just notice my interior door lights of driver rear and passenger front aren't working well . Driver front and passenger rear is working.
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