Ford - Explorer :: 2007 - High Revving Sound / Hard Time Going Into Reverse
Apr 25, 2012
We are planning on taking our 07 Explorer in to the dealer to have them check on a couple of issues. 4.0 with auto and about 45,000 miles on the ody.
1. While taking off after waiting at a stop light or slow speed traffic crawling there is a high revving sound coming from the engine compartment. Sounds like the fan is over revving compared to the engine speed.
2. Recently the truck has a hard time going into reverse. Physically hard to move the gear select lever and there is a hard "thunk" when it does actually shift into reverse.
I just want to be armed with information before heading to the dealer. The truck is still under a warranty plan, I just need to be prepared. Could it have to do with the Transmission Range/Position Sensor?
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He has a 2002 Explorer 4.6. The truck is having a hard time going into reverse intermittently, hard shift in normal driving and thinks it has slipped in first gear going up his driveway that is steep. He is worried that he put slightly over sized tires and this may hurt his tranny. The overdrive has blinked twice with in the year. Possible problems that could create this he is thinking solenoid pack, servos, torque converter. The truck has 110k and never done fluids, Would lucas slip fix or hurt we have heard that these tranny's are finicy.
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Tranny started acting funny recently...shifting hard into reverse at first, then last night it was like it was stuck in high gear or slipping on the way home. Limped it home and took the following codes:
P0743 TORQUE CONVERTER CIRCUIT ELECTRICAL
P0750 SHIFT SOLENOID A MALFUNCTION
P0755 SHIFT SOLENOID B MALFUNCTION
P0760 SHIFT SOLENOID C MALFUNCTION
P0765 SHIFT SOLENOID D MALFUNCTION
P0962 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID A CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0966 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID B CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0970 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID C CONTROL CIRCTUT LOW
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I drove our 95 3.0l aero to work today, I was going to a job 45 miles away. It sounded like it was revving awfully high for 65-70mph, but the gear selecter said od, so I figured I was just crazy. Got to the job and tried to back up and the shifter wouldn't go into reverse. Parked for the day after realizing the shifter would go N and down, but not into rev or park. Apparently it was revving high, as the gear indicator was now off and I was no doubt in drive, driving to work. I got it home, then had to drop my daughter at work, by staying in OD.
Then on the way home the van just DIES while going 35+- mph. Won't restart, smelled gas after many many attempts to start. Towed home. NO spark. I have 12+ volts at+coil. I tried my ignition module and a new one, neither sparked at the coil wire. I bought a new coil, then checked resistance at + &-, and - and coil output post. Basically same resistance new & old coil. Did my hall effects or cam, or crank sensor just go out or? Why both problems same day? I thought if it was the coil or ignition module, maybe it got too warm on drive revving high. Does a 95 3.0 coil get triggered by the distrib haal effects or does the crank sensor do it?
I can easily see one of those being bad as they are original, with 334,000+ miles. All the tune up, coil, wires, plugs, ign module, cap, rotor, were replaced 55,000 miles ago. ALSO does this distrib have a TFI module on it? My book says to pull the distrib and remove it, like my 5.0l Mustang, but I don't see one, I think thats the ignition module on the pass. inner fender. I'd like to see if I can get 400,000 miles out of it.
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i did have the mech recall done a while back. lately, on several occasions, when i've hit the pedal to the floor "fast", i would get a high rev to 3-4k with the car not moving any faster and then after the revs come back to 1-2k the car would take off like it should. the perfect example of this would be when i wanted to change lanes or pass someone on the freeway.
the car accelerates normally when i am depressing the pedal incrementally and i haven't seen the same type of thing during any other situation. i've had the car for a year and hadn't really noticed this prior to recent driving.
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I've seen this talked about before and it's happened to me before as well but now the tranny is leaking onto my Ypipe a couple times per week and it's giving me a hard time when I try to reverse. revs drop and it stalls if I don't give it enough gas.
So I know I have to change the seal but Ford is telling me the torque converter will need to be replaced but another transmission shop told me once the seal is changed and fluid level set appropriately I shouldn't have the reversing problem anymore?
Is this something I could attempt myself... looks almost like I'd have to move the exhaust to drop the tranny...
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I'm rolling down the freeway in stop and go traffic, so I have been EV stacking. Clicked from EV to HV several times over the course of 5 minutes. Then, I hear this fairly high pitched revving sound - even and constant rev up, not rev/idle/rev. I thought it was the truck next to me, so I turn down the radio and away from the truck but it happened again. I would stomp on the gas for a moment, and it would subside - not completely because it would start doing it again very soon. I'm not accelerating, but it would be like throwing it into neutral and revving. When I come to a complete stop, it would not go to EV - the light isn't on like when it is warming up the ICE.
My exit was coming up soon, so I would alternate pumping the brake and gas to get it to stop. Only when I was at the light that I powered off the car to reboot. Since then, it did not recur. Strange... Perhaps related, but I doubt it - I had bumped into a vehicle around 3-4 mph the day before. I was... drowsy.
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I have a 2007 Passat with >120k miles on it. For the last month or so, occasionally when I start the car up, the EPC (I think it stands for Electronic Power Control) light and the Check Engine (the engine sign) light comes on. When I hit the gas, it barely goes past 20 and seems to be revving really high (almost redlining) before it finally accelerates. Needless to say, this is not a good thing; especially when it happens on the freeway.
I called around to a few mechanics but they all want to see the car and run the computer codes on it before they even tell me what's wrong with it; which I am loathe to do just yet because I don't want them to charge me an extra $100 for a diagnostic for a repair I may not even get done with that mechanic. Meanwhile I'm driving around feeling like I should put my feet on the ground like Fred Flintstone to gain speed.
In the research I've done online, I've seen that it may be an issue with the throttle wire or some other wiring issue.
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I have a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 4.6L and auto tranny non 4 wheel drive. I have a hard time moving from park to drive and reverse. Is there a switch that lets you put it in gear once the brake pedal is depressed? Could that have gone bad?
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04 Explorer XLT, 4dr. 4wd, 4.0 engine - after replacing front rotors and pads the "4X4 High" indicator light flashes then pauses then flashes again. Did I brake something, what is the cause and how do I fix it. ABS light stays on all the time.
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I have a 2003 Accent and it has been over heating constantly for about 5 months. After it started, we replaced the main radiator hose, thermostat, radiator cap AND a head and head gasket. It worked for about 2 weeks and then over heated again. It seems like there is too much pressure somewhere because the lid for my reservoir shoots off and all the coolant comes out. I'm just not sure where to look for a clog since it is coming out of the reservoir. It also recently started having transmission problems(?) or that is what I think it is... It won't go in reverse and has a hard time shifting sometimes. I'm not sure if it could be related or if it is the tranny also.
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2001 VW Jetta 1.8t automatic.
Transmission has a hard time going into 1st and reverse. Also some times hits hard going into third. I have a CEL for a vehicle speed sensor? Was wondering if it's not the VSS but maybe one of the other tranny sensors?
Separate question. Same car has a rough idle issue. Occasionally stalls but intermittently runs normal always has a low idle around 600 rpm. I have a code for an injector on cylinder three.
VSS code : P0725 - engine speed sensor circuit malfunction
Injector code : P0203 - injector circuit open cyl 3
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[URL] .... My engine has been making this sound for a while now I am at 125000 miles, what it could be and if i need to be worried about it? also, possibly unrelated, it has a SUPER hard time shifting into reverse, it gets stuck and it feels just super sticky shifting in and out of reverse. Sometimes I can't even get it to go into reverse without letting the car roll a bit. Also, at around 3k rpm the engine sounds a little grinder in any gear. 2008 Honda Fit Sport ...
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I recently had an issue with my transfer case that caused me to have to replace it with a rebuilt one. I did so and am now having a different issue. I have a switch on my dash that shows Auto, 4 High, and 4 Low. Whenever I shift that switch over to 4 High from Auto the light changes and I hear a click sound. When I shift the switch from 4 High to 4 Low I get nothing. So, I took off the transfer case motor and switched things over by hand. When I shift the transfer case (manually by hand) over to LOW setting on the transfer case; it seems to run ok as if it is in 4 low, BUT, when I shift the transfer case (manually by hand) over to HIGH setting I can shift into every gear but seemingly have no reverse. Reverse seems to make a whirring grinding sound.
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My high mileage V6 1999 Sierra starts fine and runs great in the morning or when it is cold. As soon a you try to restart hot is spins fast enough, but has a very hard time starting. When it does start, there is smoke from the gas and the engine idles very high for about 10 minutes before settling down. Same thing reoccurs over and over when the engine is hot. May idle up to 2500 rpm, cant kick it off.
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I have a 1996 explorer that started making a high speed spinning sound when you let off the accelerator at 30 mph or above. If you put it neutral the spinning sound will go away, or if you press on the accelerator. I thought maybe the torque converter, but a transmission mechanic said probably not, I'm still not convinced. He thought maybe the transfer case.
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I have recently noticed that there is a loud, high-pitched whistling sound coming from under my hood that has progressively gotten worse over the weeks. At first, it would only occur when I had my AC or heat on and would stop immediately once i turned the AC/heat off, and will also happen from time to time when I accelerate. Now, this noise is happening right when I start my car and takes a few seconds to stop.
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After sitting engine cranks longer than it usually did before it starts. idles a little rough. engine light comes on after it been running about 30 sec for 1 min. after that seems to run fine.check codes po446 and p1633 always come up. if you let sit a bit with key on starts right up.replaced gas cap checked evap lines, and changed filter no luck. Did notice with lines off evap solenoid key off or on i can blow through it. that doesn't sound right.
Checked fuel pressure. key on jumps to 90psi then falls to 55psi and stays. turn off key and leaked off 10psi in 5 min.start engine while watching gauge does the same as when the key on except it falls to 30 to 35 psi and bounces between them. i think this is way low. What is the correct pressure? Shut off engine and drops to 20 in 5 min. Next I plugged line on test tee going to fuel rail and tested same results as key on. the convinced fuel pump was bad since regulator and check is there. replaced pump. problem still there.
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My cousin has a 2007 Ford Taurus with the pushrod 3.0L. It has the console shifter and it is hard to move the shift lever into Park from Reverse. The shifer moves out of park and to every other gear with normal effort. The gear indicator correctly displays the shifter position. It drives/shifts perfectly fine. The only problem is that it is hard to move the shifter from Reverse into Park. It feels like there is a rubbery, or somewhat mushy threshold/resistance that needs to be overcome with a moderate amount of effort to get the shifter into park. Once the shifter is in Park it feels normal meaning you don't have to hold or force the shifter to stay in park.
It is frustrating because it seems most other people have a problem with the shfiter being hard to move from Park to Reverse or Neutral, but she is having the opposite issue. Will it hurt the car to keep shoving the shifter into park when necessary without getting it fixed?
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I went to go start my LS460... put the heat on, its fine.. when I turn the heat up on high I get this annoying high pitched sound. It has to do with the heat system because when I turn it off it goes away... I'm scared to keep the car running...
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About 8 months and 12k miles ago I had the trans in my 2007 Explorer V6/auto completely rebuilt – now has about 89k. In the last couple of days when pulling away it has intermittently (maybe once a day) sounded like a loud fan was revving, which was accompanied by what I believe is trans slippage. Yesterday it seem to get more regular, at idle it revved itself up to about 2k rpm without moving while I was sitting at a red light, felt like the trans was slipping and then the communication section of the dashboard flashed red with a thermometer. As the warning was red, the engine temp gauge went to hot, as soon as the fan sound and slippage issue stopped (after about 10-15 seconds) the message went away and the engine temps gauge went back down to normal. What may cause this? Also, how long a dealership should warranty a its trans work?
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