Ford - Explorer :: 2007 - Grinding Sound Felt In Gas Pedal Upon Acceleration
Apr 6, 2017
2007 explorer makes a grinding sound I feel in the gas pedal upon acceleration. Also hesitates when acceleration on highway.....
View 3 Replies2007 explorer makes a grinding sound I feel in the gas pedal upon acceleration. Also hesitates when acceleration on highway.....
View 3 RepliesI'm the original owner at 50k miles with Ford ESP warranty. Drive-train still under original warranty. I started noticing a low growl hum noise and vibration felt on gas pedal when accelerating at about 40 MPH. At first I thought it was the road or tires.
Then a few weeks later on a slight hill the growl-low hum was accompanied with a much more noticeable/louder growl/grinding noise in a heartbeat like rhythm. Took it to dealer and they first said it was the transmission. It was replaced.
Then they said the noise was from the rear differential/axle. It was rebuilt, oiled and sealed. Taking it back today for another drive with the mechanic to show them again the problem persist. What it may be? Also, my MPG has dropped significantly from an average of 18 to 13. This is while driving on 4x4 Auto.
I have a 2005 F-250 4x4 and recently i noticed a grinding noise while driving and then when I come to a stop I hear a clunk and the grinding stops. It sounded like it came from the driver side wheel so I changed the wheel bearing assembly. About 3 days later it started again. Now it sounds like it's coming from both sides. I am at a loss. The hubs are unlocked. It's hard to describe the sound but to me it sounds like 2 gears with a large chain rotating on them. I hope that made sense. The clunk can be felt in the brake pedal.
View 2 RepliesMy wifes 08 santa fe awd has started to make a subtle clunking that I can feel through the gas pedal. At first I thought it was the AWD system but now it seems to be getting more frequent and noticeable.
I have searched and see that the front stabilizer bars have had issues with this year. Is the thump I am experiencing possible a sign of this?
If so how long would that be covered under warranty. The 3/36 has just expired on us.
I got the attached warning today on my 2010 LS600. The pedal felt a little soft after the warning. It kept popping off and on, dinging every 30-40 seconds.
I checked the brake fluid, it was full. Car has 36k
I had it towed in to Lexus and they couldn't get the warning to come back up.
2004 Ford Explorer Sports Trac.
Just recently when driving down any road, when I let go of the gas to slow down from any speed, there is a funny grinding noise coming from under the truck, the Speedo drops fast, but the RPM`s stays the same. Then at around 30-40 km/hr, it just stops. When I place it into 4x4, I don`t have the problem. Also, again just recently, when I put the truck into reverse, I get the same grinding noise from under the truck. I have to putt he truck into 4x4, and then I put it in reverse for it to work.
I don`t have the problem going into drive. Both problems don't happen all the time, it will go away for 2-3 days then ill have problems for a few days after. I Took the truck to the shop and they said its the tranny so I replaced with a brand new one thinking that is the problem, but After the Tranny was replaced its still making all the same noises. The grinding noise sounds like "ice in a grinder" or to that effect. I'm not sure whats wrong, and I'm getting frustrated at my truck.
I have a 2003 Sport Trac 4wd with 299,000 miles. There is what sounds like wheel bearing noise (grinding) that was noticed after returning from a trip where I flat towed it behind my rv. I did not notice the noise the last time I drove it - before towing it about 450 miles. I have towed this vehicle for many years and miles this way - transmission and transfer case in neutral with key in on position to unlock steering. I stated this part about the towing because the noise may have gone unnoticed for many miles. About 20,000 miles ago, I changed front wheel bearings, brake calipers, upper and lower ball joints, shocks and outer tie rod ends. Also rear brake pads.
I put the vehicle on jack stands and in drive mode couldn't hear anything in either 2wd or 4wd. I held one wheel at a time so the other side would spin. After checking for wobbling wheel bearings, I took off the wheels and did a push / pull on everything - all seems good. I changed driver's side wheel bearing anyway because I thought it to be a little rough. I removed the front drive shaft and took it out on the road. Noise was still there. This makes me think front differential but before entering unknown territory (for me) is there something else I can do to narrow down the problem? At this point, I'm not even convinced it is from the front end - maybe the sound is radiating through the truck.
I recently had an issue with my transfer case that caused me to have to replace it with a rebuilt one. I did so and am now having a different issue. I have a switch on my dash that shows Auto, 4 High, and 4 Low. Whenever I shift that switch over to 4 High from Auto the light changes and I hear a click sound. When I shift the switch from 4 High to 4 Low I get nothing. So, I took off the transfer case motor and switched things over by hand. When I shift the transfer case (manually by hand) over to LOW setting on the transfer case; it seems to run ok as if it is in 4 low, BUT, when I shift the transfer case (manually by hand) over to HIGH setting I can shift into every gear but seemingly have no reverse. Reverse seems to make a whirring grinding sound.
View 2 RepliesI got a strange one. 03 expl 4x4 xlt, started making a weird sound, almost like a rubbing, or a light grinding, comparable to the sound and seat of the pants feel you would get if say you ran out of good brake lining and were creeping the car forward at half mph while dragging the breaks slightly but (except it is when you are stopped and in P). Break pads are fine, just when you come to a stop and put it in park. lasts for about 1-3 seconds. No tranny slippage or other issues yet, all seems to be working. I don't use 4x4 hardly at all but not in last 6 months since there is no snow. Since it is so short I cannot pop the hood to track it down. Torque converter? Fan clutch?
View 3 RepliesI got my 77 ford truck w/four wheel drive half ton with a np435, 351M and i was wondering if a bad or worn bearing can cause vibration. i can feel it by the pedal when i accelerate from 50 to 65. I don't know if that's my trans or maybe the pilot bearing?
View 10 RepliesI have an 09 F150 4x4 with 116,000 miles on the clock. I am having an issue with moderate acceleration and felt mostly in 3rd gear. I changed the spark plugs at 106,000 miles with OEM replacements. I have had this issue since about 80,000 miles but intermittently. It seems its starting to get worse as time goes by. The problem is both cold or warm and doesn't happen all the time but now about 80%. Light acceleration is good and full acceleration is great with no issues.
Feels more like running out of fuel but not to the point of stumbling. Possible misfire that is not being detected. No check engine light lit. Tranny shifts perfect. Idles extremely smooth. I was thinking a coil problem but with no engine light, I don't want to try to guess which one. So far, this truck has been awesome and has needed nothing but tires and routine maintenance. I pull trailers consistently and this beast is not abused nor babied.
Alright so I'm having a problem with my 2003 Ford Explorer. I've recently noticed that when I get to above 40 mph, if my steering wheel is straight, I hear a loud kind of grinding or humming sound coming from my left driver side front. If I am going about 65 mph, it gets even louder and if I crank the steering wheel to the left, that's when it really gets noisy but as soon as I crank it to the right, the problems gone. When I do hear the hummin sound, I can feel it in the steering wheel. I have replaced al of the tires and it didn't work. Also, the car slightly pulls me to the right.
View 10 RepliesI have a 07 Explorer with the 4.6 that just developed a problem. It has 75,000 on it and has all of sudden started shaking at idle and acceleration. The acceleration issue doesn't seem to occur until after 45mph. I have cleaned air filter and MAF sensor. Still need to put a code reader on it. Where to start troubleshooting.
View 3 RepliesThe problem starts after about 5-10 mins of start up and normal driving. First signs usually come leaving a stop light or stop sign. Hesitation, jerkiness, rough acceleration. It's usually slight, just enough to feel it. Soon it really shows up while keeping the truck at a steady speed, say 40 for example.
I finally heard what I would describe as a puffing air sound and figured vacuum leak.. finally! Nope.. it's coming from the rear underneath of the vehicle. I can't hear it in the engine, or the tail pipe.
2002 Ford Explorer xls 4.0 125k miles, I've replaced the air filter, egr valve, pcv valve, cleaned the maf and covered about every hose I can reach with carb cleaner checking for a vacuum leak. I've yet to try some of the other things due to hearing that puffing sound.
I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L with 131,000 miles on it. When I accelerate from a stop, there is a buzzing/rattling/grinding noise coming from the engine bay of my car. It's really hard to describe, there is a definite buzzing sound, but also almost like there is a bolt rattling around and banging into things. This only happens for a couple of seconds. It also seems to be worse when I'm accelerating up hill. If I accelerate slowly from a stop, the noise does not occur, and it also does not occur if I accelerate while I'm already moving.
View 4 RepliesI have been having a grinding/metallic sound when going up hills in 4th/5th gear. It sounds like if you threw metal into moving parts. I believe it's coming from my engine or transmission. When i was at the dealer last month for a campaign and ecm upgrade i mentioned this problem and they replaced the vcm motor assy, however the problem still exists. What could be causing this problem?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder and the ABS light comes on intermittently. Not only does the light come on, but sometimes when I apply the brakes, the brake pedal makes a grinding, vibrating sound that I can hear and feel under my foot, and feels as if the brake pedal is going to go all the way to the floorboard. If I quickly pump the brake, it stops that sound and the brake works fine.
I have taken the car to O'Rileys and Firestone and they put it on the analyzer. Two codes come up which indicate that the right front ABS was bad and/or an open circuit. I replaced the ABS sensor, but the problem described above persists. I took it back to Firestone and the same codes displayed. Firestone said it was an open circuit and that I should take it to the Toyota Dealer. I called the Dealer and they want $135 to analyze the car. They won't tell me what they will do in the analysis. I also took it to Just Brakes and they kept it for 3 days and could not or did not do much other than suggest I take it to the Dealership. I have read that the Dealership will probably say the ABS computer needs to be replaced ($1,000). I have also read that the 2007 Camry Hybrid ABS brake system has been recalled, although my Camry is NOT the hybrid.
There has had two fender benders on the left front side and the right front passenger tire hit a curb which bent the tire, but the tire has been balanced (not sure if the wheels were damaged in these minor accidents or if the wheels could be causing this?) Other thing that occurred right before the ABS light started coming on, and the brake issue, is that the air conditioner went toes up, and there were small metal fragments within the air condition housing unit. I replaced the whole A/C unit. I haven't been able to assess if one would have anything to do with the other, but it is interesting that the ABS and brake issue all started within a few days of the A/C unit being replaced.
2001 Hyundai Elantra, with an automatic transmission.
1. I am experiencing a "grinding" sound upon my initial acceleration from park? This only occurs when the car has been sitting for a decent amount of time and the engine is relatively cold. To give you more detail: I start the car, throw it in gear and begin to accelerate. The grinding sounds is almost instant and sounds horrible. It is fairly consistent how long it lasts and generally once the car shifts to 2nd or 3rd it goes away. I do not hear it again until I park, leave the car for a while, then start it up and begin driving again.
2. I am hearing a "tension" like noise, also a little like scraping, when I brake at slow speeds coming from my driver side front wheel. I recently had my brakes replaced so I know its probably not the pads and at the time the rotors looked fine too. It is not a constant noise during the breaking either meaning, I apply the breaks, i hear it for a second, then it goes again, then it comes back, then goes away. Again it sounds like a mix between scrapping metal and tension.
What it could be, what I could look at on my own or how to get it resolved?
2016 Explorer XLT 4WD light Clunk Sound Problem. I purchased a brand 2016 explorer brand 2016 explorer
and since new it has a light clunk sound and you feel a click on [URL] .... when accelerating in Drive out of Park. Brought it to the dealership and they don't know what the issue is.
Steps to Recreate:
1) From Park put the vehicle in Drive
2) Start accelerating in forward motion and I hear a clunk/click sound and feel it in the gas pedal.
The problem does not occur in that driving session unless you put the vehicle in park again and then back to Drive. Just to clarify its when you start moving you feel the clunk.
When I accelerate at 70+, I get a very noticeable vibration that is felt into the steering wheel and throughout the cabin. I have 14,000 miles on the car, so I seriously doubt that it's the CV joint. Could it be possible that I lost some wheel weights, and it's become imbalanced?
View 2 RepliesI just recently bought a 2000 Explorer, 4.0 OHV, 4x4 with about 150,000 miles.
I've had the vehicle for about a month, and ever since I bought it, it's had a grinding sound (sounded like wheel bearing) coming from the front right side. I replaced both right and left bearing/hub assemblies, and took it out for a drive. The initial sound that I thought was bearing noise is still there, and at about 65mph I started to get a little bit of steering wheel shake. I took my foot off the gas and it stopped. I accelerated up to about 70mph and it seemed ok.
I hit a VERY small bump in the road and the steering wheel started shaking like hell. So bad that I almost lost control. I slammed the brakes and the shake stopped instantly. I took it home and put it up in the air, half expecting to see something loose or broken, and everything looks perfect. I re-torqued everything that I had taken apart for the initial hub/bearing replacement, and took it out again. Same issues.
I never had ANY of these problems before I replaced the hub/bearing assemblies, so I'm completely confused. I was thinking CV joints, but I have no clicking at all when turning, in forward or reverse, everything is smooth. Outer tie rods were done about 6 weeks ago..