Ford - Explorer :: 2007 Eddy B Model Randomly Jitters
Mar 2, 2012
I have a 2007 Ford Explorer Eddy B model with 74K miles. When I drive it randomly "Jitters". The event is difficult to describe. It happens anytime; hot or cold, at start-up or after being on the road a while, when I accelerate or am at a constant speed, on cruise control or not. The only time it is not prone to happen is going up a steep incline.
The engine cuts out several times in very quick succession, or once for about 1-2 seconds. It sort of feels like a series of backfires, or that the transmission is trying to find a gear it wants to be in (as I said, this happens even on a level road at a constant speed). When the event takes place, the tach intermittently and quickly goes from the hormonal 1500 rpm (or so) to around 2500 rpm, then returns to normal.
This occurs more often lately.
There is no engine light, so putting it on a test machine is not yet an option. I have changes all the filters and uses the gas stuff to eliminate water. I let the tank get down to 50 miles of driving time and then always fill the tank.
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I have an 07 explorer that has developed an new problem. While driving, I lose all throttle, regardless of whether I'm accelerating or just cruising along. I've checked the vacuum lines and fuels filter and pump to no avail. It. Has progressed from a once a week to the point that it's not drivable.
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Ok my issue is probably a simple and possible easy fix but I need to know what to do. Pretty much you're accelerating more aggressively and the turbo kicks in in between 2000-3100 rpms the car gets the jitters like the turbo isn't getting enough air or choking or something like that, ive been told that it might be a vacuum hose but idk where the turbo is located to begin with let alone where the vacuum hose is.
Also I have '02 passat 1.8T manual
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When running and turned off, after 5 minutes of being on, the headlights blink on and off randomly. The only way to stop it is holding the brights/blinker/wipers wand back to temporarily engage the brights. Pushing the wand forward to fully engage the brights does not stop the blinking. Not fun for night driving!
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1999 Explorer XLT V6 4 Door. So my 4WD was randomly kicking in and out to the point that it was intolerable. Don't have the $$$ for a repair, so the mechanic disconnected the plug from the 4wd motor. Now the car is doing all sorts of crazy electrical stuff. Is there a way to more surgically disable the 4wd without the unwanted electrical freak-outs?
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I bailed on 2012 as I didn't want to make any payments and figure prices will go down once 2014 hit the market. SOOOO I am looking at
2007 black on black Toyota Camry SE leather 86,000 km OR
2009 white SE 102,000 km. leather SE with navi for 14,500 plus taxes. (12% whatever that is)
I have seen cheaper but I don't want grey. I love black so i'm jammed.
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I remember reading that some common problems that plagued the 2006 Passat have been removed or rectified for 2008. what was improved or rectified in 2008 over '06 and '07?
I'm planning to trade-in my '06 Passat for '08 if I can find a good deal and would like to know the above.
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I have the 2008 VW Passat Lux with Navi 2.0T, what the difference between 2007 and the 2008
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer. For about the last year some of the dash lights have been turning on and off randomly and intermittently. The three lights are the check engine, the airbag and less frequently, the check gauge light. It seems like there's some connection between the lights because often when one comes on so does another and often one will turn off, but immediately another will turn on. My mechanic (not a Ford dealer) tried to fix the check engine light by diagnosing and fixing the indicated codes, but a day later the light came back on. It stayed on for a week, then one morning it stayed off, but the airbag light came on. Is there some electronic (or other) component that links these three lights and could be causing this situation?
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My friend has a 2004 explorer v6 150k miles. Randomly shuts off while normal driving just going down the road, and when you try to restart it it starts up and runs fine. This used to happen every few months and is getting more frequent. The only code it has is a lean code from the o2 sensor, I'm trying to get more info on that but it's been like that before this problem started and possibly just a bad o2 sensor. Where to start and any know issues that would cause this? Sounds like a wiring issue are there any spots in particular prone to chaffing?
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So i noticed recently. The speedometer needle would jitters/shake/doesn't move smoothly when driving around 110km/h to 120 km/h. Approximately 75 mph. I'm in 6th gear when this happens. I haven't tried down shifting to 4th or 5th to see what happens, but maybe i should try that. This happens while trying to accelerate. The car has barely any power at that point. If i stay at a steady speed, the needle doesn't jitter.
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I have 2007 Camry base model 4 cyl. I went into the grocery store with my wife and kids and returned to car with no power. I turn the key and nothing happens. The dome light can turn on but its weak. the only dash lights that come on are the oil light and the key with the car picture.
I bought a new battery for it and still nothing. I had it towed to my house and currently trying to find as much info as possible on it. So again I turn the key, no lights on the dash except for oil for a second... then nothing no turning over, no clicking..
My thoughts are cable wires or fuses?
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I have a 2006 Explorer with the 4.6 liter V8.
The airbag light on the dash comes on randomly after start up. It lights up solid and does not flash a code. I hooked up my code reader to it and it shows no code as well.
As part of my observations I have noticed that the passenger air bag off light comes on and goes off even when the seat is empty.
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My door ajar light & bell goes on and off at random. It's also setting off the alarm when the doors are locked. What might be causing this.
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Yesterday my lady's 2001 Explorer Sport with a 4.0 SOHC was running like a top and then suddenly after sitting parked for a couple hours it would crank but not start. After letting it sit for an hour or so it cranked and seemed to run ok. She drove a mile or so and it died at a stop light. It wouldn't start for a few minutes and then finally started but in limp mode. The engine was shaking and barely able to idle so she pulled into a parking spot and I came and checked it out and we had to have it towed home. This problem is just out of the blue suddenly with no warning.
Today I was able to get it to start but it shook really badly and was running like it possibly wasn't getting the right air/fuel mixture. There is no check engine light on. At one point today I realized that once it started and was idling horribly and shaking I could press the gas pedal just slightly and hold it there and the rpms would slowly go up and then the engine would smooth out. If I slowly gave it gas I could get the engine up to 3000 rpms and then it would hesitate and drop the rpms back down to 2500. If I try to rev the engine quickly it acts like the engine is flooding or starving and chokes and stalls.
It has 111k miles on it. She has only owned it for 6 months but it has ran flawlessly to this point, other than one random time that it just died at a stop light shortly after she got it.
I'm not familiar with these 4.0L SOHC engines and I'm not really sure where to start. The coolant was low, maybe 1/2 - 2/3 full in the radiator but she said that it did not overheat and she pays attention to her temperature gauge because she's had overheating issues in other vehicles in the past. This coolant has to be going somewhere. Hopefully it's not an intake or head gasket issue. We have not noticed any leaks and the oil was just changed last week and there is no coolant in the oil. The engine doesn't smoke at all either.
Maybe I need to buy a OBD scanner and check the air/fuel mixtures? I recently ordered a cheap ODBII bluetooth dongle for my android phone but the piece of junk only worked once so I have to order a different one. My girlfriend has to work in 2 days and I need to get this figured out ASAP.
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I've got the stock stereo (CD and radio) and am wondering about options to connect my iPhone. Do I need a new stereo, or is there some way to add either a stereo mini input or iPhone cable input?
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My wife drives a 2004 2WD Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC motor. We have had a problem now for over a year and a half of it randomly dying. There is not telling when the engine might die besides the fact that it happens when you let off the accelerator to brake or make a turn. It only happens at slow speeds. At a stop light or stop sign usually. The car will always start right back up. It has been to a couple of Ford dealerships and they haven't been able to diagnose the problem. The check engine light is on and it is giving the code p0456. This code definition is an EVAP small leak detected. Probable causes for the code are:
1. Defective, loose, or missing fuel cap.
2. EVAP Canister broke, hose cracked or not connected.
3. Purge or vent solenoid defective.
4. Vacuum leak at engine.
I don't think it's the fuel cap that would be making the car die. I used carburetor cleaner (I know its not the safest ) and sprayed on the vacuum lines that I could find to try and diagnose a vacuum line leak but nothing seemed to effect the engine. Do one of the other probable causes from p0456 could be causing the dying or could it be something else???
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My 2007 Toyota Solara convertible has been perfect...and now suddenly the convertible back window is leaking. My husband advised me not to drive it today due to the expected rain. OOPS. I went out, and when I made a stop, I looked at the back window and realized the bottom window (glass/plastic?) had completely separated from the fabric top. The top itself is in perfect condition.
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My wife has been driving this Escape for about a year after driving one she inherited from her father to 162K miles. This one has just under 70K now.
In the last month or so, the interior lights have begun to come on and go off at will. It can happen going down the road, or sitting in the garage for hours. When it's running, the door chime may or may not sound. It sometimes comes on when it hits a bump, sometimes without one. I looked at it earlier, and the light was on. (I have turned the center one off. I don't see a way to turn off the front ones) An hour later the light is off. No one has been in the car since this afternoon.
She says the car is haunted, and is now calling it Casper, even though it's solid black.
I have tried the standard fix of lubricating the door latches several times. There are six latches including the rear hatch and rear window. I have used CRC electrical cleaner as well as subsequent doses of good old WD 40. I don't know if there is an easy why to tell which switch might be causing the problem, so I have taken the shotgun approach.
The two remaining bulbs are tiny, so the battery has not run completely down, YET. The car is driven almost daily, sometimes several times in a day. I'm beginning to think that the situation may not be caused by one of the door switches. What else can it be? Why does it cycle like that? I doubt that it's haunted.
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I bought an 07 F150 5.4 4x4 with 135k on it about 6 months ago. Shortly after buying the truck I began experiencing a shudder when lightly accelerating up a hill. Also when accelerating hard it would misfire. Thinking that it was plugs or COPs I changed the plugs and coils. That fixed the missfire issue but it still shuddered when accelerating up a hill.
I decided to take it back to the used car dealer where I bought it so they could fix it. On the way there the fly wheel broke. The dealer replaced it and thought that it was the cause of the problem but on the way home I still experienced the shudder. I took it back and they "scoped" it and found that the torque converter was bad. They replaced the TC and now there is no more shudder BUT now I have a new problem.
Now if I am driving at highway speed and let off the gas it feels like it immediately down shifts for a few seconds then shifts back up and coasts along until I give it gas again. There is enough resistance that it feels like a jake brake or that the breaks are being applied. Also if driving along at 30 - 40 mph and just holding the gas in the same spot maintaining 30-40 it feels like it down shifts and up shifts over and over until I either give it more gas or let off all together. Also a few times pulling away from a stop I will get a thump.
I have an appointment with a transmission shop in a few days but today on the way home I put it in second gear while going up a hill so it would not shift and it seemed like it was coughing and sputtering. So now I am wondering if that is what is happening and either feeling like or causing the down shift up shift issue.
If it is a missfire issue why would the new torque converter cause this? It has all new motor craft plugs and all new after market coils.
There are no check engine or other warning lights lit on the dash. I have a cheap ODB scanner and it shows two codes. B1676 which apparently is a Battery Pack Voltage Out Of Range or ABS voltage issue. The voltage is showing at 14.2 volts and there is no noticeable battery issues. The second code is a P1000 Drive cycle test not complete. (this code has been showing for some time the 1676 code is new since the torque converter swap)
One side note: after the TC change every time I start the truck the radio/cd changer cycles though all the CDs. like it it is checking for a disk so it clicks and pops around from a moment. The only time I heard this happen before was after having the battery disconnected. The clock is not reset though like I would expect if it was losing all power.
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So after putting my 2007 explorer in 4 high, it seems to be stuck that way. I can put into 4 low and hear it engage. When I select 4 high or 4 auto, I can hear the 4 low disengage. However, it never goes out of 4 high. The indicator goes off, but i can still feel it is engaged. What to do to turn it off?
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