Ford - Explorer :: 2006 V6 - Sputters / Loss Of Acceleration
Feb 10, 2014
I have a 2006 Ford Explorer 4.0 V6 that when speed up around high 4 gear entering 5 from what I can hear (it is an automatic) it sputters slightly and you can feel the acceleration kinda die or cut out for a millisecond. I connected the OBD reader and no codes. I noticed the check engine light came on and then off so I replaced the spark plugs replaced and transmission fluids, checked all fluids and leveled them then replaced the fuel filter while I was at it. Drove around for a day like normal did about 50 miles no lights came on but then today while driving in the morning when I accelerated to around 55-60 entering 5 gear the car did the sputtering and loss of acceleration again and no lights or codes.
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My 96 Explorer has been sputtering on me. I took a right turn one day and now its sputters at acceleration. It has a new fuel pump, filter, injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, idle sensor, EGR valve. Also, all vacuum lines are good and not cracked or broken. My mass air flow sensor is also clean and clear. I have done all my own repairs on my cars and trucks all my life and thought I was good at it (not so sure about that now).
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I was cruising on the highway and tried to accelerate and no more power. Could feel engine losing power. After I shutdown the car and start again, car was fine.
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I bought 08 6.4 113000 on it 4x4 lariet drove 300 miles home. No problem 2 days later runs fine for 45 minutes than loses power and sputters up hills starts no problem every morning every time wait awhile sometimes runs fine was on e when test drove canged both fuel filters oil and drained 8 quarts tranny fluid and replaced it. When problematic rpms wont go over 2 turbo psi seems high seems in sync with rpms dropped...
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I'm fixing my mother's Ford Explorer 2000 it turns over but won't start it sputters and everyone smile you hear what sounds like a small backfire.
it seems to be getting good spark I can get it to start for a little while and run on either. So I'm assuming the plugs and wires are working well they look good. When I tested the spark it looks very good.
ECM fuses look good able to use a scanner Jump fuel relay and can hear pump run I made sure there is gas in the gas tank
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty with the 5.4 Triton motor with a 5 speed. I bought the truck a couple months ago, and it had a bad manifold leak (not surprised lol). but it ran fine just noisy. So i had a shop do new gaskets and bolts. Then my problems started.........
When you start up the truck she runs fine and some times drives fine. I will be driving along and its like some one hits a switch and i suddenly loose all power it spits and sputters and i have to down shift to make any kind of hill.
So I figures I had a misfire i got a light on for cylinder 5. So I decided to change all coils and plugs hoping that would clear things up...... well it didn't. It ran great for roughly 15 miles then it started to do the same thing again. I've changed air filter and fuel filter also.
When it starts sputtering i sometimes get a check engine light on and then it goes away. when the light is on the codes are:
P1151 A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.
Read more at: [URL] ....
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2
Read more: P1152 FORD Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2 | AutoCodes
Both codes come on together always. but it will go away when the sputtering clears up. I just checked fuel pressure its at 32psi at a idle.
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I have a 2006 town and country with a 3.3 and 220,000 miles.
Last week I was having some hard starts and loss of power on acceleration. My check engine light flashed during one episode so I had autozone check the code and it showed a misfire. I changed out my plugs and wires and that solved my issue. It started and ran like new.
Yesterday, I was running errands and my charging light came on. I was about ten miles from home and I decided to go for it. It was night so the headlights were on. Along the way, everything started to dim. Headlights, dash lights, airbag indicator came on and then the van just died. I walked the final mile and we towed it home.
The alternator and battery were both replaced last year in November making them both one year old. AC Delco battery 660 cca and I had a very reputable alternator shop rebuild the alternator.
So before I towed the van home, I hooked up some heavy duty jumper cables from a running chevy venture and let it charge 15 minutes. After the 15 minutes it was just clicks in rapid succession.
I hooked it up to a trickle charger overnight, 12v 2 amp setting. This morning, the van started, idled fine for about five seconds and then started trying to cut out. I kept it running by giving it gas but after about twenty seconds it stalled. I tried to restart and nothing but the rapid clicks. Three more hours on the trickle charger and the same exact thing happened. It started, began to stall, quit and then wouldn't restart.
I noticed today that the power steering reservoir was leaking a decent amount of fluid down onto everything around it including the coil pack. I replaced this today and used brake cleaner to clean all the surrounding components.
After doing some internet sleuthing, I found a thread with the same problem. For this guy, he had a disconnected ground from the negative battery terminal. I chased mine down (G101) disconnected and wire brushed it all clean. Put it all back together and still the same problem.
Here is what I have discovered:
Trying to jump it from another vehicle only results in the clicks. This is true whether the jumper cables on the dead battery are on both terminals or the negative is grounded on the motor. If the battery were the problem, I should be able to jump through it. If the alternator were the problem, I should be able to start with a jump.
After charging the battery, it will start once but then die soon after. Battery with the key off will read just under 12 volts (11.9, 11.6). With the key on, it will drop to the 8's (8.6, etc.) I have not yet had the battery or alternator bench tested. I plan to start with the battery in the morning.
It seems to me that the alternator wasn't charging the battery or it wouldn't have just killed the battery as those accessories should be powered by the alternator. It shouldn't be a starter issue since it will start after being on the trickle charger.
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I have been having issues with my 2001 sports trac 4x4 v6 sohc fuel in. 132k mileage. The problem is I can jump in and it will start first try, fuel pump is heard activating, idle is rough, feels like truck is about to die, pumping on the gas usually causes it to catch and smooth out......after 10 mins. or sometimes less than that truck starts to sputter, step on throttle it dies faster, sometimes when stepping on the throttle before it dies and a truck is able to rev up and then back to idle and not die.
But most times stepping on the gas when it begins to sputter after running for 10 mins or so causes it to die once it dies it doesn't start back up and when key is turned on and off, no fuel pump activation noise. I have scantool data take off an autel 619 saved to notebook text format. Those are my numbers for the scan tool, suggestions I have gotten so far are vacuum leak, failing fuel pump, bad o2 sensors, bad MAF.......so far replaced fuel filter and cleaned MAF....no difference.
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2008 GS460. 100K miles
I have noticed when I accelerate on a entrance ramp to the highway I notice the RPM meter jerks a little like it's trying to suck for gas or something else. I can feel it in the car too. This is the only time I have noticed this. I have replaced the spark plugs about 5K miles ago.
I did bring it into the dealership a few months ago to get the fuel pump replaced as I noticed a hissing noise under the drivers side read door. They said fuel pumps rarely go bad on the Lexus. The mechanic did some fuel pressure tests and said everything looks good. He also said noise is the return line back to the pump.
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I have a 1997 explorer sport 4x4 4.0 sohc It has a real tuff time with cold starts sputters won't hold and idle sits at about 500 rpm once its warm its not as bad still has a low idle.
Also i have a constant engine rattle thinking left front cam tension-er
Also throwing and check engine light odb scan tool shows o2 sensor position two is bad
I was thinking intake gaskets and new tension-er is a good place to start.
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My 2004 Elantra occasionally won't start. When I hold the ignition on Start, the radio loses power (but the dashboard doesn't) and nothing else happens. Sometimes, tapping the gas pedal will suddenly cause the car to start. Once, I had to stomp the pedal to the floor before it would work.
I just replaced the battery (and positive cable end since it was corroded in place) and recently replaced the spark plugs (which were badly burnt). There is a check engine code for "catalyst underperforming" which seems unrelated.
I suspect my car has fuel delivery problems. It occasionally sputters while idling and often has power loss while driving if I try to accelerate hard. It seems to have trouble shifting into 4th gear from 3rd or 5th, but that may be another issue entirely.
What I should check to diagnose this, or replace to resolve it?
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Starts good cold and hot. Taking off like a grandpa on an evening drive don't notice a thing. Only codes that keep coming up are 2614 and 2617 which are cmp and ckp open curcuit codes and a software incompatibility code for FICM which is due to the updated software in the fresh FICM I installed. HPO pressures are good, has boost, idles smooth, revs nice when in park. New injectors (cause it was running rough especially cold before) and CMP and CKP (because of the above codes and didn't change)and ICP and IPR (last 2 installed because of HPO codes that are gone now with the IPR and ICP). Fuel pressure is 65psi (updated spring). When you step on it while driving it sputters and bucks like it's out of fuel, let off the throttle a bit and it purrs like a kitten. I'm a little stumped. I think it puffs a little white/blue smoke while it bucks.. not much tho. and it comes in little puffs. Took off filler cap and there is almost no blow by.
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My car is misfiring, as in acceleration 90% sputters until I lay the pedal to the ground, which obviously isn't good for my gas. What do I do? I can't find anything online and I don't want to be throwing money into things that don't work.
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I own a Celica '00 and have been driving it for 8 years. In the last year I've noticed that my CEL started coming on. Did some scans and got P0171 error code from Autozone. The Celica was running lean and took some time to accelerate but run fine for a while. It got worse soon and I took it to a mechanic. He diagnosed a bad Cat Converter and he replaced it with an universal one. He also replaced the first Oxygen sensor, Spark Plugs, Fuel Pump and the Mass Air Flow sensor. Car's CEL came back one after 10 miles of driving. At that time I put in a 4" silencer for my muffler. The silencer had a 2.5" opening and worked well to lower the muffler noise.
The CEL was still on and I disconnected the negative on the battery to see if I can reset it. Well, once I connected it back and tried to turn on my Car all hell broke loose. The engine now has extreme sputters, shakes and hesitates to accelerate above 5-10mph. I barely drove it back to the mechanic. He still is not sure what the problem is, he thinks replacing the other sensors and troubleshooting the coils should be the next step. I'm wondering if my silencer could have caused any damage? Also, I'm wondering if there is valve damage inside the cylinder? The code we're getting now is Cylinder 4 misfire. What about the Fuel filter? I don't think it has been changed at all. The car is at 122,000 miles right now.
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I'm a single mom and really dependent on my car for my job and my kids... I have a 1995 Chevy Camaro 6-cylinder, and I am having engine problems... in the mornings, my car starts fine, but if I drive more than a few minutes and turn it off, she doesn't want to start up again. It turns over just fine, but it sputters and refuses to stay started. After a couple of tries, I can get it going, I rev the engine, and a cloud of dark smoke (not blue and smells like gasoline) comes out. I also smell gas strongly when the engine idles after everything smooths out. Sparkplugs, fuel filter, oil, air filter, belts, hoses, all have been replaced recently, catalytic converter is only four years old, and car has 178,000 miles on it. What I may be dealing with? I'm also losing acceleration/power when I try to speed up...
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I have an 04 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 Flex Fuel. There has been loss of power to fuel pump. Relay and fuse both good, replaced the inertia switch...still nothing. Could a FPDM (fuel pump driver module) have anything to do with this issue? Or what should I check next? I am definitely at a loss as to what the issue could be! I know it is fuel related because I used starting fluid and it started right up and run for just a few seconds, so that should rule out ignition I think.
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So a few days ago the family and I were on a road trip. After driving for close to three hours we ran into a problem. We were doing about 75, which is about 3000 rpms with the 4.6L, When we dropped from 3k to about 400 and started to lose speed. I pushed the gas peddle all the way to the floor and no response at all. I pulled over and it had a very rough and choppy idle and it wanted to die. It eventually did. I checked all fuses with nothing found and i even hit the fuel pump shutoff reset. It started back up no problem and we got about 5 miles before it the exact same thing. Idle at about 400 rpms and no throttle response at all.
I shut it off and called a tow truck. It started up and they drove it onto the back of the tow truck and off at the local mechanic. They spent 2 whole days trying to diagnose it and even drove it for 4 hours straight, no issues. They pressure checked every system they could and tested every sensor they could. They could not find a single thing wrong with it. I drove it home 3 hours away with no issues. I got home and let it sit for about 10 minutes before I had to leave. I didn't make it more than 2 miles before the same issue popped up. I pulled over. Shut it off for 15 minutes and it started right up and drove home.
It threw 4 codes.
1. Pressure control solenoid malfunction
2. Fuel pump Primary circuit malfunction
3. Gear 3 ratio incorrect
4. Gear 4 Ratio incorrect
I've had 2 mechanics tell me its a PCM issue.
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Explorer with 4.0 has a rough idle, just put new plugs & wires, air filter looks good. i did get a new fuel filter as well but haven't gotten to that yet. It has 102k. I have read some info about motor mounts could come lose casing the motor move a little more, not sure about that one. its the wife's haven't driven or looked into it yet, its on the to do list weekend. She also informed that it seems to lose power a little while driving sometimes, thinking possible fuel pump now?
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2001 F150 V8 4.6 Liter... I've been experiencing hesitation when first pressing the gas, stall at idle, RPM fluctuating between 1000 and 500 at idle and loss of acceleration. Had the truck read at autopart store and received a P0402 error and misfire is cylinder 8.
At this point, I've changed the the plug, COP, EGR valve, EGR Valve Solenoid and DPFE sensor and still have the exact same symptoms. I've also changed the plug for cylinders 5,6 & 7 as well. The check engine light is on, went off briefly after changing DPFE sensor, but back within a day.
Given the fact the error code is P0402 and some of the threads I've read, I thought the issue was centered around the EGR system, but I've replaced many of the components.
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Why is my 1992 ford explorer self accelerating between 15- and 25 mph?
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So, last December, I was sitting at a stop light, when my engine suddenly started rattling. "Check Gauges" light on, ZERO oil Pressure..
Took car to mechanic, he removed the valve covers, and scoped out the timing chains with a camera, and found everything intack, and no chips out of the timing guides (125K miles on the engine). no sludge, nothing.
Engine runs fine (for 5 seconds at a time) no issues. Removed Intake to check the Oil Pump Drive Gear, all is well.
Removed Oil Pan Inspection Plate, All is well. ZERO plastic chips in the oil pan from timing guides, ZERO sludge, all is clean.
Back up to top of engine, pull the Oil Pump Drive Shaft using needle nose pliers from the top of the engine. BUT!!!
Only the top 8 inches of the Oil Pump Drive Shaft comes out! The bottom gear is not present! Is it still in the oil pump?
OK, so I need a new oil pump drive shaft. no Problem.. BUT: how do I get the broken oil shaft out of the engine before I put a new one in? Use a magnet? Rubber hose?
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