Ford - Explorer :: 2006 - How To Remove The Y Pipe
Feb 13, 2013
Pulling the Y pipe down on a 2006 4.6 3 valve? I recently pulled my wife's motor out and replaced it. I could not figure out how to get the Y pipe out so I had to leave the trans up under the car on jack stands because the Y pipe was in the way. I have a plugged cat now and want to buy a whole new Y pipe. I don't have a problem cutting the old one out with my sawzall but I want to be able to reinstall the new one without my sawzall.
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I have a 2006 Explorer XLT. Each time I drive it, the trip miles have been reset to zero, and the gas mileage re-starts at zero, and the truck seems to not run as smoothly as it does in the midst of a couple hundred mile trip.
If I stop for gas and take the key out and open the door, the ECM seems to reset itself back to factory defaults. It don't seem to store anything. It seems like there may be a blown fuse for memory storage or something similar, but I haven't found a blown fuse anywhere. It acts like it would if you remove the battery ground and touch it to the positive to reset the ECM.
Which fuse this may be and its location? Is there another possibility of failure?
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Computer also said to replace Camshaft position sensor. The plug is getting spark and appears to be getting fuel. the plug was moist not dry. How ever i did notice the egr pipe is completely broken free from the header. Which I am replacing. Since it is reading lean on bank 2 could this alone cause more fuel to be dump in the cylinder 2 cause the plug to be too wet to fire? if not what might the possible problem be? 2000 Ford Explorer 4.0L ...
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2002 ford explorer XLT. Here is a pic of the issue. have a broken right front sway bar link that has broken on the top however the bottom is still attached. I am unable to remove it. The top portion is gone and I am unable to grip what is left enough to loosen the bottom bolt. I have tried pliers as well as vice grips to keep it from spinning as I loosen the bottom bolt. Nothing has worked. The outside plastic OEM piece is stuck in there so well I am unable to break that loose either. I have sprayed PB blaster hoping to loosen things up but here I am writing this.
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I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport, and to remove the rear passenger window. The car is a two door, and the passenger windows are the smaller "flap" out style. I was able to remove the two torx screws on the hinge itself, but the glass portion is held in some sort of bracket, and I'm having trouble removing that.
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Have a tarp over the roof of our Explorer, getting a puddle of water on the driver floor.
It's getting the headliner wet near top driver side of door/windshield.
Is there a drain tube, or is it a blocked channel in the roof that I can clean with a stiff wire from above?? or does this require removal of the headliner?
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Thats what my mechanic told me about my 2002 exploder sport trac with 4.0. I started another thread here a while back about my truck having a bad miss, turns out it has a broken valve spring. He said the engine must be removed to do the job as its on the #1 cylinder which happens to be on the passenger side and the cam chain drive is on the back of the block.
He said my choices are: Remove the engine and just replace the spring, which may or may not effect a repair as theres no way to know if the valve made contact with the piston. Remove the head and send it off to a machine shop for repair/inspection. Or, remove both the heads, one for repair and inspection, the other just for inspection, and then put the whole mess back together.
Whats the best option here? I'm not exactly made of money, and, I'm still licking my wounds about having such a mechanical disaster take place on a vehicle that up until this point, I absolutely loved and has only 90,000 miles on the clock.
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2007 Sports Trac .. Does the motor need to be removed to replace head gaskets? 4.0 sohc
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2006 F350 4X4 .. How in the heck do you get to it? I have that massive heat shield in the way and can't get a shot at even those bolts? One bolt left to get out then I can start going back together.
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Did the cam sync replacement on my 96 explorer awd 5.0 l had the tool dropped the sync got it back to where the last one was. Followed the procedure pretty close I did forget to remove the battery cable. So here is the issue I now have 0 fuel to the rail. is there something I might have messed up or left unplugged that would cause this. Did my fuel pump poop out the same time my sync did. I am stumped as even where to start .
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I have a 2006 Camry 2AZ-FE. ONCE IN A WHILE when I start the engine (especially when cold) I get smoke coming from the tail pipe. It's been an ongoing issue for the past two years....what is the cause and what area should I look to repair? I check my oil and coolant at least once a month and it does not get low.
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Ok a new rattle is going on in my 2006 Azera. Not sure where the rattle is coming from. Took it to the dealer last month for a oil change and asked them to look at the underbody to see if anything was loose. The service manager said everything looked fine. So if it isn't rattling there where else as I can tell something is loose somewhere.
I looked in the trunk yesterday and everything is sound in there didn't look at the spare so that is the next step. Doors sound solid but I hear it when driving like something is knocking lighly under the car. Thought it might be the tail pipe of something connected. I been riding my Burgman 650 most of the summer so far but when I pick up my girlfriend in the Azera I hear it from her and then from the car.
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I recently had my 06 Hyundai Sonata 3.3 v6 brought into my local repair shop for a flex pipe replacement and ever since I got it back the check engine light has come on. I brought it back in, they said the 02 sensor needed replacing, replaced it free of charge, got the car back light went back on again and they said this time they put the wrong sensor in so they replaced it, now the light is coming back on again. It seems to go on for a day then go off for a day. I've only had it back for about 3 days so far.
Could this be perhaps the 02 sensor needs to break in or the computer needs time to reset or something like that? What could be causing this issue? Should I wait a couple more days before bringing it back in to have them.
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Looking for info on how to remove the steering wheel on 2006 escape to get to cruise control switches and is there a self test you can do for cruise control functions like holding on button while you turning switch on as in other models ???
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I've been searching for instructions/procedure on how to remove the instrument cluster on my 2006 6.0 Superduty. My odometer has been showing the classic signs of a cold solder joint, cutting in and out constantly. It's been doing this for a couple of years, and I've taken it to the dealership, since it's still under warranty, however they were not able to find the problem since they were not able to witness the lighting go off and on. I figured I'd just do it myself and not even bother with the dealership if I don't have to. I've read the threads on how to fix the issue, however, everything I've found is for 2004 or older models. Are there any threads specific to the 2006? Or, is the instrument cluster on the 2006 the same as another year model? Maybe I can find this info. there.
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i'm owning a japan spec GS350. Quite fastuarted with the 180km/h speed limit.
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What are the steps to remove the central console off? I am going to replace my airbag control module.
Remove the silver one first or remove the black trim first? I already removed the four screws , front 2 and back 2.
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How to remove the door panels? I tried to google it but I didn't have luck.
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The passenger air bag indicator light got pushed in so I need to get the vent panel off so I can push the light back flush. I do know the surrounding of the radio pops off without any tools. But taking that off doesn't get me anywhere. I still don't see access to remove the vents.
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How Do You Remove Gear Shift Knob For Replacement ?? On My 07 Azera
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I have a 2010 Hyundai Elantra (GLS, I think). I was having problems with the factory alarm, and while troubleshooting that, I found that the lock on the rear door (drivers side) works well manually, but fails (won't lock or unlock) most of the time when using the key fob or the master lock switch on the drivers door. I'm pretty sure the actuator for the door lock/latch is going bad, and I'd like to take it off the vehicle for inspection and if bad, replace it.
So, I took the door panel off, and found there is a huge aluminum cover over most of the door, with about 9 bolts holding it on. I can't seem to get it off, to gain access to the interior of the door where the actuator is mounted. I've tried the local Hyundai dealership, local auto parts stores, but how to remove it. Removing the bolts lets me pry it away enough to peek inside, but I can't find what's holding that aluminum cover on.
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