Ford - Explorer :: 2006 - ECM Resets Every Time Remove The Key
Mar 9, 2016
I have a 2006 Explorer XLT. Each time I drive it, the trip miles have been reset to zero, and the gas mileage re-starts at zero, and the truck seems to not run as smoothly as it does in the midst of a couple hundred mile trip.
If I stop for gas and take the key out and open the door, the ECM seems to reset itself back to factory defaults. It don't seem to store anything. It seems like there may be a blown fuse for memory storage or something similar, but I haven't found a blown fuse anywhere. It acts like it would if you remove the battery ground and touch it to the positive to reset the ECM.
Which fuse this may be and its location? Is there another possibility of failure?
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Pulling the Y pipe down on a 2006 4.6 3 valve? I recently pulled my wife's motor out and replaced it. I could not figure out how to get the Y pipe out so I had to leave the trans up under the car on jack stands because the Y pipe was in the way. I have a plugged cat now and want to buy a whole new Y pipe. I don't have a problem cutting the old one out with my sawzall but I want to be able to reinstall the new one without my sawzall.
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So everything in my car has no memory issues but my clock always says 1:00 ... when I start the car....
I have tried another control unit (the climate control, nav screen, etc buttons) where the clock is located to see if I had a bad unit and it still did the same thing.
I have a brand new battery from Lexus and everything else in the car seems to be fine....this was an issue before I bought the new battery.
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Well this past week I have been getting the ESP light lit in my cluster during my weekly commutes. 1st: My car is a 2005 05 V8 model with 96K miles. The ESP light resets every time when the car is turned off and comes on after driving (varies), no hard CEL triggering with the condition. I notice yesterday that the ESP light comes on faster when I am coming up a hill. Yesterday when I started out on flat ground the light was off most of the trip (about 10 miles), it wasn't until I hit the hill on my way home that it illuminated (the final mile of my trip). One other major symptom, the Cruise Control does not "SET"; Cruise turns on and I see the indicator in the cluster, but when I hit the set function, it doesn't set the speed control. This happens both before and after the ESP light illuminates.
I have a VAD Pro and I ran a scan, both at the halt and on the move, the ESP light does NOT throw out a DTC in the ABS module or any others. However, their is one persistent fault that reoccurs (00526), faulty brake light switch; the Ross Tech site stated this is normal in some Automatic transmissions; if you do not push the brake pedal before the scan. My brake lights work fine & I understand their is two sets of contacts in the switch. Again, this DTC (00526) does not set the CEL. But, I am not ruling out a faulty brake light switch.
I performed a Goggle search and found an Audi A8 with an ESP issue, one of the members pointed to hydraulic unit under the hood , here is the link. [URL] ....
This A8 owner says a new brake light switch fixed his vehicle, and the cruise control was also not working as a symptom. [URL] ....
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Every time I turn the car on, the "from start" fuel economy reading resets to 15l/100k. After driving for a while it goes down to 4l/100k but then resets back to 15 once the car is turned off. Is there any way to get it to stay at what it finished at?
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My 2006 Prius has strange behavior. Sometimes when I turn it off, (Push Park button, then Power button) it blinks the screen and resets the clock.
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2002 ford explorer XLT. Here is a pic of the issue. have a broken right front sway bar link that has broken on the top however the bottom is still attached. I am unable to remove it. The top portion is gone and I am unable to grip what is left enough to loosen the bottom bolt. I have tried pliers as well as vice grips to keep it from spinning as I loosen the bottom bolt. Nothing has worked. The outside plastic OEM piece is stuck in there so well I am unable to break that loose either. I have sprayed PB blaster hoping to loosen things up but here I am writing this.
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I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport, and to remove the rear passenger window. The car is a two door, and the passenger windows are the smaller "flap" out style. I was able to remove the two torx screws on the hinge itself, but the glass portion is held in some sort of bracket, and I'm having trouble removing that.
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Have a tarp over the roof of our Explorer, getting a puddle of water on the driver floor.
It's getting the headliner wet near top driver side of door/windshield.
Is there a drain tube, or is it a blocked channel in the roof that I can clean with a stiff wire from above?? or does this require removal of the headliner?
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Thats what my mechanic told me about my 2002 exploder sport trac with 4.0. I started another thread here a while back about my truck having a bad miss, turns out it has a broken valve spring. He said the engine must be removed to do the job as its on the #1 cylinder which happens to be on the passenger side and the cam chain drive is on the back of the block.
He said my choices are: Remove the engine and just replace the spring, which may or may not effect a repair as theres no way to know if the valve made contact with the piston. Remove the head and send it off to a machine shop for repair/inspection. Or, remove both the heads, one for repair and inspection, the other just for inspection, and then put the whole mess back together.
Whats the best option here? I'm not exactly made of money, and, I'm still licking my wounds about having such a mechanical disaster take place on a vehicle that up until this point, I absolutely loved and has only 90,000 miles on the clock.
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2007 Sports Trac .. Does the motor need to be removed to replace head gaskets? 4.0 sohc
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The ABS comes on everytime I stop on my 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. This morning I had a scan tool put on and it showed all sensors working properly. The ABS Light never comes on when this happens. It has been doing it for some time now and I am about to go with new front pads and rotors. One weird thing I can be coming up a steep hill to a red light and when I slow down enough without touching the brake the ABS comes on. Not the light just the pulsating.
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I have a 2003 Ford Explorer that the alarm goes off at any give time. It will even go off in the middle of the night. I have replaced the rear hatch and window sensors. It has been in the Ford shop many times for this and they can't find anything wrong.
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Original owner, I'm not sure if this LED light on the dash was put on by the dealer or is it a factory install? I've tried many things and been through this site a bunch and can't seem to find a similar problem....
Currently, no matter how I enter my vehicle, I set off my alarm.
1. Unlock the door with key, no alarm until I lift the latch.
2. Press the first number in my 5 digit code: Alarm.
3. Press unlock or lock on my new fob: Alarm.
After alarm is activated, I can put my key in the On position and press the little button under the dash and the alarm goes off. So I'm getting around to the dismay of my neighbors, but I did recently unhook the horn to keep trying things.
Also important to note I guess is that the alarm sets itself no matter what I do when I exit the vehicle after 2 minute delay.
I hope it's a simple fix, but it doesn't seem to be. I've reset the fob, checked fuses, changed the battery and banged my head to no avail.
Another note is that this began on Super Bowl weekend when I drained my battery with a PA system hooked up to my cigar lighter in the tailgate and needed a jump start. My alarm hadn't previously worked for at least five years, but the LED would blink even while driving.
I would love to just unhook or disarm this alarm, plug my horn back in and end this nightmare. (hearing my alarm in my sleep from so many trial and errors)
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Did the cam sync replacement on my 96 explorer awd 5.0 l had the tool dropped the sync got it back to where the last one was. Followed the procedure pretty close I did forget to remove the battery cable. So here is the issue I now have 0 fuel to the rail. is there something I might have messed up or left unplugged that would cause this. Did my fuel pump poop out the same time my sync did. I am stumped as even where to start .
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My 1997 Explorer 4.0 is giving me a run for my money. About a month ago, it started misfiring and threw a P0300, 301 and 306. It didn't misfire constantly though only most of the time; sometimes it would run perfect which leads me to believe the issue is electrical. I've had trouble with the coil before so I changed it and no difference. The next time I scanned it, there was only the 306 code. Next I made sure that cylinder six was misfiring and the rest were firing by pulling the wire off the coil.
All checked out but one and six. I've already checked the wires, they're both good. I swapped the plug on cylinders 5 and 6 in the hopes that the problem would follow the plug; nope. Fuses are all good. So I know the coil, wires and plugs are good. That leaves me with air and fuel. I can't imagine anything is wrong with the air intake seeing that it still runs. That leaves me with fuel. It has 200k on it and I've never done injectors. Maybe its injectors but why would they only be faulty part of the time?
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I bought a 2004 Explorer a couple of years ago and at the time some ot the windows only work some of the time. Then the drivers side fron and rear passenger window stopped working. Now all but the front passenger side stopped working. I've changed the master switch and no change. I know that it is probably a broken wire between the drivers side door and cab but can't understand how the front passenger side would still work if that was the case. If it wasn't grounded or if a wire was broken wouldn't all of the windows stop working? Also the rear passenger power door lock has all of a sudden stopped.....
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So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
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The sensor on the dash by the windshield has fallen. I assume behind the dash. The DRL flash intermittently. So I turn my headlights on. How do I find this sensor that has fallen out of place. I assume that's why they flash ?
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I have a 94 ford explorer and the back hatch leaks every time it pours rain. I noticed on the drivers side that there is a gap on the side of the hatch. Is there a way to adjust the hatch? The other side is fine.
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I have a 2003 ford explorer sohc 4.0l , that starts only with the gas peddle pushed to the floor and will only run for a couple of seconds at a time. Just replaced all the timing chains and tensioners. It has 145 lbs compression, and 60 psi fuel pressure. No codes on the computer.
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