Ford - Explorer :: 2006 4.0 SOHC - Small Vacuum Leak
Jan 4, 2016
I'm having a little bit of trouble finding the cause of a minor problem on my 06 Explorer with the 4.0 V6 engine. When the engine is running cold at idle, it runs a bit rough and idle speed is high as well. When fully warm, the engine runs and idles fine. I hooked up a scan tool and there are no pending or stored codes. The live data looks ok except the long term fuel trim which is at about +10% on both banks during idle, indicating a lean condition. Short term fuel is right around zero. The MAF and TPS values seem to respond fine when applying steady throttle.
So I assume there must be a fairly small vacuum leak somewhere that the PCM is able to compensate for since the long term is only at 10. I didn't see anything obviously wrong, the vacuum lines look fine along the passenger side near the firewall. I sprayed a bit of throttle cleaner along the hoses, intake manifold and gasket area, but could not spot any vacuum leaks. Any other common areas to check for leaks on the 4.0 V6? Perhaps there is something I am missing?
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
Long story short, I have a small vacuum leak in the 4wd system. I disconnected the lines going to the hubs to prevent grinding them to pieces as they are brand new. This, of course lock the front hubs in and disengages the X-fer case in 2wd.
It is not engaging in 4wd unless I select it, so I don't imagine it hurting anything in the X-fer case or anything. Other than the extra rolling mass, is this okay to operate at until I resolve my vacuum issue, provided I close all openings and places for trash to get in?
View 13 Replies
Searched several times over the winter. Finally tore each hose out one at a time and went carefully over it before returning or replacing.
Turned out to be the long formed semi flexible vac. hose that runs from the gas fumes purge tank control valve group to the throttle body across the top of the engine. Ripped it out, on one of the bends was a small crack all the way thru, apparently would open up wide when stressed and cause problems. Mainly on hill pulls or hard acceleration but not every time. NO hair left after this one.
Replaced, deleted the codes. Runs like a top.
Still amazed at how much power these 4.0L V6 OHV Fords have from low speed on an uphill on ramp drag race.
stirs the old hot rodder blood.
View 12 Replies
My parents 2000 Explorer is having issues...It started with check engine light...came back to Oxygen sensors...Replaced all 4....light came back...still a couple of same codes...P1151 and P0153...smoked the intake with Evap Leak Detector...have several small vacuum leaks...little at EGR (No EGR codes)...little at TPS (No TPS Codes)...Little at throttle shafts...and some coming from what looks like underneath throttle body....none of these are as much of a concern as the next thing....NOW the trans will not shift out of 1st...unless you manually shift it from Drive to 2nd...then no other gears...Reverse works fine.....
View 13 Replies
I popped a code this morning PO442 emission control evap [small leak]. Would this be a vacuum hose leak? I did both heads about a month ago. Any way to narrow down the troubleshooting on this problem?
View 6 Replies
I have a 2003 Explorer with the 4.0 K motor. It has a vacuum leak and the check engine light will come on from time to time. My work buddy has a high end computer and it showed that the driver side bank was running lean. The computer showed the O2 sensors to be working fine, and I replaced the PCV valve. All other vacuum line appear to be in good condition and I tried the spray test with the break cleaner with the motor running. This is leading me to believe the air intake gaskets where due for replacement. Here is my problem, I can not get the last bolt out of the plenum. The one on the driver side up against the fire wall. I tried to remove the cowl in order to get a straight shot at it but I can not get the seem seal to break free.
View 4 Replies
After 150,000 miles, the radiator has developed a small leak. Question- do I have to remove the fan or can I just unbolt the shroud and push it back to slide the radiator out? I don't have that special wrench to spin off the clutch fan. 1997 Explorer 4.0 ....
View 1 Replies
I've got a coolant leak on the drivers side of the radiator. I don't drive the vehicle that much because I use it primarily for towing in the good weather seasons. I drive it once a week unless we have snow than I drive it more.
I have seen small amounts of coolant (yellow/gold) in the snow when parked. It does not appear to be very much, but it does concern me.
Anyway, here is a link to some pictures : [URL]....
Where to look for this leak. I looked from the bottom and the top (without access to a lift) and I couldn't see anything revealing.
View 10 Replies
Got 2006 Explorer back fron trans rebuild and probably unrelated but started getting P1405 (Large vacuum leak) and alternating "replace gas cap" errors. When I installed a new gas cap, error went from large vacuum leak -which I checked for on engine and found none using smoke test- to loose gas cap. So next, I changed the emission system valve which is right up front on rt. side of engine looking into engine bay. Now, error has returned to large vacuum leak. So new gas cap and valve. Error does not come back immediately after clearing. Takes about a week and then either get SES light and large vacuum leak error or just picture of gas cap on dash error. Note that when I remove gas cap, I no longer hear the "whooosh" of releasing a vacuum. Assume now it is in back by spare tire where I need to be looking. I note on emission valve that there is a schrader valve for testing vacuum....
View 6 Replies
I just bought a 2000 ford explorer which didn't start... I put a new fuel filter, spark plugs and air filter in it...still not starting ...gonna do a a compression test tomm. and see if it the timing chains or tensioners... Sounds like its misfiring actually, it doesn't start with starting fluid sprayed in it....where is the ignition pickup located on these things? I still need to put a new ignition coil and wires on it. plugs were in horrendous shape and i thought that was the problem.
View 13 Replies
I have tried playing with screw that controls throttle plate it does work at first allowing to reach 1200 rpm at idle however after stopping car and starting again it does go down to ~600rpm again like computer adjusts it back to desired level. There's also **** on Idle valve however turning it does nothing.
Is there way to reprogram computer to make 1200 a desired RPM?
Like try this yourself reach about 1200 rpm and then hold your leg still not looking at the rpm your once you hold it for a while it goes down to normal rpm, only way to hold constant 1200 RPM is to play with gas pedal.
I want to raise RPM to avoid misfire.
View 5 Replies
Drove it yesterday no problems. got in this morning tried to start and would not turn over. thought it was a dead battery. Ran jumper cables to my wifes car waited for a while tried again. nothing. bought a new battery put it in. Nothing. I did notice when turning the key the dash lights come on then half a second they go out. interior lights, and 12v outlet work but no headlights. Any issue other than the obvious corroded terminals or loose terminal wires?
View 2 Replies
Replacing the timing chains and tensioners on an SOHC Explorer, only to have the tensioners fail again after only a few thousand miles? I'm a pretty experienced back yard mechanic and have rebuilt several engines over the years with great results, but this one has me stumped. The only part of the instructions I did not do was to remove the valve springs, but everything was lined up as it should have been using the special tools required to set the timing. I really like the truck, but don't know if it's worth fixing if this is just going to happen again.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2003 Eddie Bauer explorer with the 4.0L SOHC . I have a coolant leak from the passenger side that is not a water pump issue.
When removing the timing chain cover with the engine in the car, do I need to remove any accessories ( power steering , alternator etc. ) or their brackets?
View 2 Replies
When I put my 06 f350 in 4x4 my ac defaults to defrost. I assume this means a vacuum leak. My question is, is the white tube supposed to be open for air intake or plugged off with something?
View 5 Replies
4.0 SOHC cranks once no start, then starts on second crank. 104K miles and used to idle very smooth, now mildly rough and sometimes upon stopping the rpms will dip down to almost stalling but not every time. Also just had the fuel pump replaced.
Also... Seafoam? Is this really as good as it sounds, I mean it can be used on anything, except cereal!
View 2 Replies
On my 97 X SOHC, I have a temp gauge that is rather erratic. It reads high even with the engine off and cold and rises when the engine is running to the point the "Check gauges" light illuminates. Then bounces to normal then back near red line. This cycle continues.
To evaluate this, I bought a scan tool and the ECT reads as expected, around ambient to start, gradual climb till the thermostat opens, then hovers there while the radiator does its thing. Heater works as expected. So I'm fairly confident that my X doesn't have a cooling issue.
What my questions are: Can I disconnect the temp sender so I'm not watching the gauge bounce around and then the Check Gauges light is available for other issues that arise?
Does the check gauge light also send a signal back to the PCM?
Can I do any damage to the truck or will the PCM throttle the power back and flash the Check Engine light if a real cooling issue materializes?
View 4 Replies
Recently the timing belt slipped and in turn shot several valves. After replacing the head and gaskets there is a small oil leak between the head and block. Can i tighten that head bolt a little? What is the best solution?
View 1 Replies
I smelled antifreeze when walking by my fiances Sonata, so I popped the hood and saw there was a small leak from the upper radiator hose, where it meets the thermostat housing. I adjusted the stock clamp, but the leak was much worse.
I swapped it out for new clamp that you can tighten, and all is well again. But, what I noticed when I had it off was that the metal neck of the housing was really corroded. Only 15,000 on the car, so I was surprised to see that the corrosion on the metal had already built up causing the leak (pushing the hose away from the housing). I scraped and scuffed to get it clean again, but just wanted to give you all the heads up in case you notice a leak in the same area. The antifreeze tested good and is really clean.
View 22 Replies
My 2007 Sonata continues to throw a P0456 code, small evap leak detected, gas cap is tight, getting ready to check the evap hoses. The question I have is the evap system covered under the emissions warranty at all ?
View 4 Replies
CEL came on after a couple of driving cycles showing code P0456 (evap emission control system very small leak detected)............. car drives fine has good gas mileage.....
View 13 Replies
