Ford - Explorer :: 2005 Wouldn't Start / Just Clicked And Lights Flashed
Jun 24, 2012
I have a 2005 Ford Explorer and a few days ago it wouldn't start, it just clicked and the lights flashed. I put it on a charger overnight and it started right up. I took it to Autozone and he tested the starter, alternator and battery and said everything was green. It was fine until yesterday when I started it up and it ran a self test and gave me:
Ignition Key B
Serial # 00075194
Part # 4L2T-10849-CK
Diagnostic Trouble Code : 9318,9352 and D900
I looked through my manuals and can't find anything with codes. My friend says batteries don't last long in Florida, I have only been here a year from Michigan. I bought the truck in 2008 and have never replaced the battery. The guy at Autozone was reluctant to sell me a battery because he didn't think I needed one. I have never had any problems with this vehicle.
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Yesterday I drove my mom's 02 explorer to the gas station to fill it for her. After filling, I started it. It ran for several seconds and then died. It wouldn't start right away, so I let sit for a half hour, and then it started and I drove it 10 miles home. What is going on?
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Was driving the other day and it just died and wouldn't start back up. It has fire and is getting gas. It's a 4.0 Sohc...
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Flashed to 1.5 v8.1 91 and had no issues with flash. Then tried to start car and all warning lights on and no start. Flashed back to Performance Pack stock version and again no issues with flash, but same problem, warning lights and dead car. Disconnected battery and reconnected without any change.
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I bought a 2005 camry at an estate sale last week. The serpentine belt was broken and guy running sale said the car set for 4 months and they jumped it off to start and it started and then died and wouldn't start. So I had it towed to my house. changed the water pump, idler tensioner, and new belt and now the car wont start. turns over good. so i changed plugs and still not starting. I will pull one plug in the morning and see if I'm getting spark. If not what would be next step.
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I drive a 2012 GTI w/ a stage 2 unitronic tune. My gas light came on today. Naturally I stopped to get gas. As soon as I began pumping the pump clicked off. It took me like 5 minutes to get one gallon of gas in and fuel started to spill out. What this might be ?
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I'm under the understanding that my 03 explorer AWD tranny level can't be checked. Is this true. Well anyway , went on a 1000 mile round trip. Left for work following morning and truck wouldn't shift to 2nd without letting off the gas. OD lite was flashing. Got to work. Left work and goes into 2nd fine but now it wont hit 3rd till I let off the gas. No OD lite flashing but now check engine lite is on. Watzz up. I would like to check the fluid....but see above.
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Really need diagnosing an on going electrical problem I'm having. It's on a 05 X 4x4 V10 with almost 113k miles.
Background : Last summer took a road trip and alternator went out and was replaced. On that trip started seeing problems with my cruise control, when the headlights(HID's) turn on they dim the dash, and hi's cause the speedometer and other gauges to quickly flux and then go back to proper readings.
Everything was "alright" in the sense that the only problems were those stated above. Well tuesday night on my way home from school, I was driving on the surface streets, stopped at a light.....then all of a sudden the battery symbol on the dash flashed and no more than a second later, the car stopped. All dash lights/radio (double din) still on and headlights still on, but couldn't start the X at all.
Was able to wait a bit and once my parents got there it did start and I was able to pull off to the side and diagnose it a little better, dad looked at it and at the moment couldn't really tell what would be wrong. I had him drive it home for me though. It's been starting fine again but I have NO CLUE as to what to look for and really would like to find out what's happening.
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I have a 2005 Ford Explorer 4wd with 4.0 SOHC 6 cyl Flex Fuel. For months the vehicle has idle rough and increasingly becoming difficult to start. I decicded to replace the spark plugs and wires hoping to solve this issue! gap set to 052. When I started the vehicle it went into engine fail safe mode and wrench light came on. I then replaced the TPS on the throttle body and had no diference (I may have installed incorrectly! when I put it on the armature felt like it broke free inside the sensor). DTC codes read P0223, P2106, P2110 and with P0122 pending, P0223 pdg, P2106 pdg, & 2110 pdg.
With the old tps installed and wiring harness disconnected the truck will start in fail safe mode, but will not start at all with wire harness connected. A volt meter reads at computer end of wire plug 3.69 volts at pin one (gray/red wire +) and pin three (gray/white wire -) with key to on but not running.
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As the title states, I have a 05 Sport Trac, just plain Jane. No keyless entry, no remote start, no steering wheel tilt. Just standard. I am wanting to install a Viper 4103 remote start/keyless entry kit to it. I just don't know if I will need any extra parts? I've tried googling and all kinds of stuff but cant find a straight answer. Some sites say I need an immobilizer bypass, some say I don't.
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I was driving my sport trac when it suddenly died on me. We are leaning toward the fuel pump. But is there any other causes for fuel to not get to the engine? We changed the fuel filter out already...
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I have a 2005 Sport trac, just recently, I started my truck and my check engine light was on and my trip counter and odometer went blank, not off, just dashes going across the panel. I recall noticing that my rpms were a little high. I turned off the truck and restarted and after a few minutes it came back to normal. Check engine light went off and my miles were displayed again.
A few days later, it happened again, except this time the rpms were normal, just the dashes and check engine light. I happened to have an obd II with me and I immediately scanned it for any codes. NONE. Few minutes later, back to normal. Scanned again, NOTHING. Its been happening more frequently now, every time i turn on the truck when its been sitting for a while. Like I said, it takes about 3 minutes or so and it goes away. Nothing unusual happens during this time. Motor sounds fine and runs smooth.
A friend who is a mechanic told me that it could be a ground cable for the COIL? that could be loose or damaged? He said its more than likely a ground because it happens when its cold and takes time to warm up and goes away. That if it was a hot it would happen all the time. I have searched online for something similar and have found similar problems but no exact match. I just changed the motor about a week ago. I had problems with the timing chain and broken oil pump.
Due to the amount of damage, cost and time to repair and amount of miles on the truck (180K) I decided id be better off putting in a new(used) motor with 67K miles in half the time for labor. I dont think this makes a difference though, because the first incident happened about a week before the truck broke down and the second about two days before. So Im guessing that the change of motor has nothing to do with it.
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I recently had my PCM flashed due to the deceleration safety recall. My engine now revs to 2200 rpm when I start it even if the engine is hot. It goes down to 750 rpm after about 30 seconds. My engine before the recall, reved from 1200 to 1400 rpm when starting. My dealer and ford tell me 2200 rpm is normal but I think it is too high.
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My freestyle has 239K on it and the it has been infrequently having periods of starting the car and having no drive and then turning it off and every thing is fine when you start again. The other day it stuck in 3rd gear and wouldn't go above 50. We stopped the car and started it and ran fine but the check engine and transmission light came on.
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I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
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My command start for 2008 explorer was installed by ford dealer couple of years ago. Now when I press remote start, horn beeps 1 time, doors lock, lights come on then it should start but instead horn beeps once again and vehicle does not start , radio and heater in vehicle run as if vehicle was started.
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I have a 2015 Hyundai Accent, and haven't had any problems with it whatsoever until this past weekend. I was driving with my Mom, driving her around to do errands, when all of the warning lights on the instrument panel flashed and then disappeared. My trip indicator also reset, even though I hadn't been using it at the time - I usually keep that button on the gas mile screen (the one that tells you how many miles you have left until you need to get gas). But when the lights flashed, the gas mile screen disappeared and reset to the first screen (the one for the trip indicator, which had gone back to zero abruptly). I'm not sure why this has happened. The car didn't stop or anything like that. I was actively going down the road at the time, going a decent speed. The only thing out of the ordinary was that there was a traffic helicopter above us (this was in an area that tracks speed by air radar), and I wonder if this happened because the helicopter hit us with the radar?
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1979 ford f-150, 460 w/ 4bbl. Carb recently rebuilt by professional, but on cold mornings (in particular) runs rough even after a little warm (just like me), like the choke isn't clicked or clacked (couldn't resist) off. Can the choke flap and mechanism be gunked up, needs some cleaner applied?
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I most recently drove my 2006 Prius around on Saturday Feb. 1, with no problems at all. I went out of town for a couple of days, and returned this afternoon to a car that will not start. I stepped on the brake, pushed Power, and things lit up, the "Ready" light flashed a few times but then went off. Power button light stayed orange.
Several warning lights on dash stayed on (!)/ABS/VSC/traction control, and a message came on the screen saying something about a problem with "P" parking, and that it should be parked level and the parking brake applied. It is sitting level with the parking brake applied already. Also, the door ajar warning light and beep start as soon as you open the car door to get in.
I'm thinking from what I've read that my 12v battery has died/is dying. I'm the original owner, bought car in March 2006, and it has just under 61,000 miles on it.
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Last fall had one day for about three miles where wipers and washer wouldn't shut off. Now they won't stop at all. Thought the multi switch might be bad, removed whole switch and unhooked. Washer pump and wipers were still on and wouldn't shut off. Had to pull the fuse.
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I got the car flashed yesterday to apr stage 1. Now it won't start and throwing a fault stabilize control error an wont start. I'm stuck in a bad way. Any tricks to get it to start and get home?
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