Ford - Explorer :: 2004 Won't Start / Stranded In Parking Lot
Jan 12, 2012
My wife's 2004 Explorer Limited 4.6L (130,000 miles) is in the parking lot of a store right now because it won't start. She says it started a little slow (2-3 seconds) at the stop before, but it started, so she drove it to the next store. When she got out of that one it wouldn't start at all.
Once I got there I tried the key and got nothing, not even a click. All the interior electronics work, the info center in the dash says "Charging System OK" and the battery gauge reads fine. The battery cables are corroded, a problem it's always had, but it's apparently making a good connection.
I'm thinking either fuse/relay or starter at this point but I thought I'd check . Ever since I borrowed a Ford van from a friend I've doubted my diagnosis skills on the newer vehicles since most of my knowledge is pre-2000. The van ran fine, I went into a store and when I came back it would start but wouldn't go into gear. After an hour of diagnosis I learned that the fuse for the brake lights went out and when that happens it locks the shifter so you can't drive it like that. How to diagnose starter?
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I have an intermittent issue w/ my 1999 Ford F150 which will not turn over and leaves me stranded at work which is 55 miles from home. Had air intake valve replaced earlier this year amongst other things. I have to admit, my Ford dealership has been good to me, but they had the truck for 3 weeks (gave me a 2011 Lariat loaner - awesome) but the truck started every day. No error codes. I have it back 24 hours and was stranded again. We replaced the fuel pump last time - obviously not the problem. 221,000 miles and has been great to me until this year.
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I just purchased a 2004 Explorer from a police auction. It had driver side damage but nothing major. When I try to start it it cranks but nothing else. I purchased a new battery, fuel filter, coil packs, spark plugs and installed all. But same thing it tries to fire up but stops short. A few times we sprayed starter fluid in it and it would start for about a second and a half and shut off..... I also listened for the fuel pump and I hear it coming on when I turn the key and checked the inertia switch...
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I recently purchased an 04 Mountaineer with 95k miles on it, there's a slight shudder or vibration when i start out from a stop, turning, reversing all at a slow speed of under 10 mph, there is no other issues after i get up to cruising speed above 10mph.
I had the front and rear differential fluids changed, the transfer case fluid changed, and transmission fluid changed.
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Picked up a super nice 03' as is with a no start. It cranks over nice and smooth, sounds like it has proper compression, and has proper fuel pressure. Tried spraying either in it and it will almost catch.
Tried putting a known good coil pack on it, no dice. Usually when other engine slip timing chains, it will crank rough, like a few cylinders are zero. This is not the case.
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I am installing a Parrot Asteroid Smart into a 2010 XLT without sub or sync. I will also be hooking up a reverse camera. All wires are ran and the harness is built. I have two wires that I am having problems with to make everything function correctly.
Coming from the Parrot, I need to tap into the Reverse Gear and Park Brake. They are separate wires. Where can I tap into these wires? On the side of the shifter I do see three wires but I am not sure where they are going.
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Which fuse controls the parking and license tag lights in 2002 Ford Explorer??? I can't find it in the wording of the owner's manual diagram.
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I just bought a 99 Explorer v8 2wd to replace my aging aerostar and to tow my boat. I already knew it had this problem and a destroyed rear diff when I bought it, I figured this would be the easiest problem with just a new switch. I was wrong.
pulled the fuze
pulled the headlight switch
pulled the relays at: power dist. box, keyless entery/alarm?, the box under the dash
disconnected the harness from the GEM behind the dash and from the keyless entery/alarm
Lights only go out when I pull the park lamp relay. I know what you may be thinking. But no. Its still not gonna be that easy. The relay is not bad or being activated. Its just acting as a jumper from pin 4 to 3. So out comes the test light.
At the park lamp relay (without the relay in)on the relay module I get power at 1, 5, and 4. When I ground 2 with the test light, the headlight relay kickes on. Which seems normal to me by my assumption of how the system works. Which is that these relays are only for the RAP module to flash the lights by grounding the 2 pin. Anyway... I think I've narrowed it down.
According to the wiring diagrams, the 4 pin should only get power from the headlight switch and the GEM from a white/black stripe wire. With the relay in (only to jump the power)I have unplugged both the headlight switch and GEM, and the lights stay on and there is power at 4. I figured the white/black wire may have a short to 12v and I would just bypass it. Then today I can disconnect the battery, then reconnect it and the lights will stay off. Keep in mind all other relays are out and everything is unplugged. If I plug the headlight switch back in, cycle the switch, the lights will go on and off correctly, but will eventually stay on. Even after removing the head light switch.
Does the white/black wire go to anything other than the switch, GEM, or relay. It doesn't say so in the diagram but I can't figure out why its getting power intermittently. Still thinking it could be a short I did a wiggle test on the dash harness to try to get them to come on if off or off if on. Nothing.
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I own a 2004 Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition with 182,000 on the clock that has developed a very annoying engine rattle. The rattle started just shortly after having some service done on the truck. I had the P/S, Brake, Transmission and Rear diff fluids replaced. I also had the A/C system evacuated and recharged along with replacing the A/C manifold line and rack and pinion. The noise is most noticeable at first start and goes away when driving.
I took it to Ford and they said that the timing belt tensioners were bad so they were replaced, but the noise was still there. Then they replaced the serpentine belt tensioner and pulley, but again noise is still there. I refused to have Ford do any more work since I had already been charged almost $1500 for repairs and the problem was not fixed. They said the next thing would be the balance shaft or rebuild the engine. The truck runs fine, smooth and does not shake at idle. It just has this awful noise.
Here is a video of the noise : [URL] ......
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This is what I was afraid of, left stranded. Typical morning when it is dark when you start but sunny by the time you arrive at destination. Our 2012 S does not have the automatic headlights like our 2010 LE. I did not notice this when I bought the car, just thought that a newer more expensive model would have equal features, but it did not. Not only that, but the 2012 does not even have a basic headlight safety feature that has been in Corollas and other cars for years where the headlights go off after 20 minutes when left on in order to save the battery, or even like my old Volvos where the headlights turn off when the ignition key is turned off and removed. There is a warning buzzer, but the volume is so low that most will never hear it. As a result I had to purchase a lithium jump start battery to carry with me in case this happens again. Makes me question the integrity of Toyota when they cheapen out the car in the areas of safety...i.e., leaving someone stranded.
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I have an 07 Prius that's been going great for me. About two weeks ago I get this strange error message about my P Lock mechanism and how I need to be parked on a flat surface with the parking brake fully engaged. The car wouldn't start, just a bunch of warning lights. Finally I replaced the 12v battery at the dealership.
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I'm in a situation where I may be having to tow my 3500# boat/trailer with my '04 Explorer 4WD (this is well within the max tow limit, per the manual). I have the 4.0L with the 5 spd auto tranny and 3.73ls gears. I've towed the boat a handful of times with this vehicle and had a good experience every time. Now I'm looking at this being my primary towing vehicle, towing once or twice a month in the summer. The car only has 48000 miles on the ticker and is in pristine condition, so mechanically it's sound.
I asked my mechanic what he thought of this arrangement and he hates the Explorers, so he's giving a biased response. Have any of you towed something on a somewhat regular basis with this, or a similar, vehicle? Any issues? My mechanic keeps going on about the transmission seal blowing when under a heavy load.
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Once I had driven for about 15 minutes and the truck set for about 5 minutes. Then it would not start. Another time, I drove for about 20 minutes and it cut off while driving in a parking lot. I have had 2 different shops take a look at it and they cannot duplicate the problem. They have run a bunch of diagnostics and tried their selves but it always starts for them.
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I am a new diesel owner. So I'm not too familiar, how to trouble shoot. I am however, pretty familiar with working on gasoline vehicles. I have a 1999 E-450 Shuttle Bus that will not start after parking it for just 3 days. I live in the area where weather has been above 90 degrees each day. I've charged the batteries, replaced them, and boosted, still no start. I have fuel coming in the bowl. And the battery meter on dash is showing that I'm cranking at around 14 volts.
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I have a blizzard plow and had a shorted wire which blew the plow marker lights to pieces. Fixed short but truck parking lights still stay on. Only way to turn them off is removing the fuse. I have checked light relays by fuse panel and under the hood.
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So here is my issue, my parking brake light stays on. Ive checked my parking brake pads, the cables and the switch. They are all servicable and operational yet the light stays on...
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I recently purchased an 07 f150 lariat leveled 4x4. I noticed the other day that all at once, the abs light and parking brake light came onto the dash, 4x4 low doesn't work and just stays in high and the ac doesn't blow cold. I'm assuming this is somewhat connected considering this all happened at once but really just not sure.
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Why the parking brake light in my dash stays on, 2004 F150. Fluid in master cylinder is full, has no signs of leaks anywhere.
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So randomly today, my Edge is constantly rebooting and the ABS and Parking warning lights are on. My brakes feel fine though and the Edge won't stay on for longer than a few seconds before rebooting.
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Intermittently, the parking brake/ABS light comes on with no pattern I can put my finger on. Some times its on when I start it and stays on the entire time I drive it. Some times its off when I start it and then comes on while I'm driving it. This morning I took it by Advance auto and had them check for codes while the light was on: C1342 - ABS control module. I can't find a lot of information about this code or what can be done to fix it other than taking it to a dealer. Any alternative solution, perhaps re-seating the connectors to the module - and where the heck is the module and what does it look like?
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The vehicle was parked in driveway for a week not previously involved in any collision or rough terrain
When do try to start is only runs for 1 second
The inertia switch was not set
There is 50+- lbs pressure in the fuel line when the switch is first turned on
Hitting the inertia switch will cause the switch to set
The switch will reset
Testing for continuity when the switch is normal there is no "juice" from pole 1 to pole 2 and 3
After activating e.g. hitting the switch there is "juice" for pole 1 to pole 2
Am I wrong in thinking it is the inertia switch....
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