04 Explorer XLT, 4dr. 4wd, 4.0 engine - after replacing front rotors and pads the "4X4 High" indicator light flashes then pauses then flashes again. Did I brake something, what is the cause and how do I fix it. ABS light stays on all the time.
View 1 RepliesI pulled the wrong fuse, and now my air bag light is flashing a 5 2 pattern, and then stays on continuously.
it's a 96 OBD II - so I don't think I can do the "short the 2 pin gray connector" trick, or can I?
I pulled the right kick plate, and see the AIR BAG module, etc the fuel inheria switch mounted on the firewall, but no sign of that 2 prong plug....
so, how does one reset or clear this 52 code - I know that it was a result of me pulling that fuse, as the light was perfect before, and no issues.
I googled this topic, and still can't seemed to find this... will I need to take it to a dealer to have them flash the Air Bag Code?
I replaced my wheel bearings and wheels roughly 6 months ago, right after I noticed my wheels gittered when turning at low speeds. I assumed this was a power steering issue or the new tires. I have now learned from this forum that it is most likely stuck in 4x4 HIGH but has no indications on the dash. Just yesterday though the actual 4x4 High light started flashing in different variations. I get 6 flashes one time, then 8 flashes 2 minutes later on the dash and so on back and forth. When I stop I can put the truck in 4x4 high and the light stays on, same with 4x4 low. Then when I go back to 4x4 auto they go off but I still feel gittering while turning at low speeds. What would cause this? I see a lot of people replacing the Xfer case control module but no one seems to have the same problem.
2002 4.0L XLT 135k
So I just bout an 03 explorer with 85k miles on it last month. the 4wd high light keeps flashing 10 times. i read the thread below and found this...
Diagnostic Flash Code Information
NOTE: The following flash codes 1 through 16 are
On-Board Diagnostic
(OBD) codes generated by the control module. If a system fault is detected, the control module will "flash out" the corresponding fault code on the electronic four-wheel drive Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the instrument panel. Also, notice that all the codes that can be generated pertain only to the speed sensors, the clutch coil and clutch with the exception of the first flash code.
The electronic four-wheel drive system also includes the brake switch input, Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch input, one power and two ground lines, along with the E-4WD MIL. The following pinpoint tests include testing on every electronic four-wheel drive circuit and not just those covered by the flash codes.
DIAGNOSTIC FLASH CODE CHART
Flash CodeDescriptionAction to Take
Inoperative or Erratic System Errors.Complete Tests AA through DD.
1Microprocessor RAM (Random Access Memory) access error.Replace Control Module.
2Clutch connector or clutch coil has discontinuity.GO to Step FF1.
3Front output speed sensor connector or internal circuitry of sensor has discontinuity.Go to Step EE1.
4Rear output speed sensor connector or internal circuitry of sensor has discontinuity.Go to Step EE1.
5Both front and rear speed sensor connectors and/or internal circuitry of sensors have discontinuity.Go to Step EE1.
6Clutch and front sensor connectors and/or clutch coil and/or internal circuitry of sensor have discontinuity.First see Step FF1, then Step EE1.
7Clutch and rear sensor connectors and/or clutch coil and/or internal circuitry of sensor have discontinuity.First see Step FF1, then Step EE1.
8Clutch and both sensor connectors and/or clutch coil and/or internal circuitry of sensors have discontinuity.First see Step FF1, then Step EE1.
9Mechanical problem that allows clutch plates to slip during clutch engagement (or faulty sensor output signal).First see Step FF1, then Step EE1.
10Both Code 9 and Code 2.See action for Code 9.
11Both Code 9 and Code 3.See action for Code 9.
12Both Code 9 and Code 4.See action for Code 9.
13Both Code 9 and Code 5.See action for Code 9.
14Both Code 9 and Code 6.See action for Code 9.
15Both Code 9 and Code 7.See action for Code 9.
16Both Code 9 and Code 8.See action for Code 9.
Regeneration (Recovery) of Flash Codes
If the ignition is turned OFF and the code is lost, the ignition will have to be turned ON again to regenerate codes 1 through 8, if the condition or conditions still exist. To regenerate codes 9 through 16, the vehicle must be driven again.
How accurate is this information? also where can i find a replacement clutch connector? New to fords so I am not sure where to get parts.
Parked the car, when wife got back in, got the big exclamation point, SRS warning light, brake off light, airbag off light and most weird the single gas bar flashing when, in fact, I had about 3/4 of a tank. The first part of the problem was that when my keys are in the same pocket as my cell phone, there is interference, so I took the keys out, but the same alarms came on. After playing around with it for a while, including locking and unlocking doors with the remote, it finally started, everything normal, including showing gas just fine. I am original owner, so no accidents. I had just put a heavy object in the trunk, maybe it twisted some wiring? I took it out when I got home.
View 3 RepliesJust recently purchased a 2004 Eddie Bauer Explorer w/ 110k. Took a Snap On scanner with me to look at it. ABS light was on and I also get a 4x4 high flashing light every 2-3 minutes. Blinks 8 times then goes away. Scanner showed the RF speed sensor isn't sending any mph signal back. Just reads 0. Will my problem be a new sensor or is the sensor getting a dirty signal trying to read dirty teeth on the hub? Also, will fixing this stop out with the blinking 4x4 light?
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2006 gx that has been lifted about 3" with old man emo springs. The ride height adjustment was removed and the adjustable shocks replaced with a larger non adjustable model.
The rims and tires were also replaced. I think the rims are 21" and the tires 33". The running boards were also removed and the wheel wells opened up a little.
The tire pressure indicator light is on all the time as the new rims and rubber don't link up to the sensor. This I can live with.
I tried it out today on a dirt road (Ophir Pass, Colorado) It worked great but about 200 yards in the check engine, and all three ride/safety system warning lights came on. (stability and slip sensors).
The car performed flawlessly, but the lights remained on even after I got to pavement. I did stop and check, oil, temp, coolant, etc when they came on and all seem to be fine.
I suspect it has something to do with either the oversized tires or the disconnected shock and height systems. How to get the lights to turn off?
The high beam indicator on the instrument panel stopped working. It does illuminate but is extremely dim. I changed the bulb, its one of those tiny little bulbs but that didn't work. I cleaned the connection areas where the bulb holder clicks into the back of the panel with scotchbrite, no luck.
I checked for voltage, this is where it gets interesting. I measured 6 volts. The other side is presumably ground, but my meter went a little crazy when I checked for ground, like it sensed voltage, but there is no voltage. This could be a bad ground, but where is the ground located? Buried somewhere under all those plastic panels, I suppose. And why only 6 volts? Is there some electronic control somewhere? The Chilton manual wire diagram just shows a hyper simple circuit from the high beam lights, through the indicator lamp, then to ground.
I DID replace the check engine light bulb and that works now (sarcastic hurray!). I have never seen it come on, the previous owner must have let it burn out, but the truck is in pretty decent shape for its year.
I was cruising my truck down the road and noticed that my high beam indicator light was very dimly lit. I wondered why this would all of the sudden come on at all if the high beams were not on so I pulled over and took a walk to the front of my truck to check my headlights. Sure enough the passenger light was very dim. (I must assume the high beam indicator light being dimly lit is also an indicator for headlight malfunction/burn out)
I figured out the plug has a keeper piece that is supposed to hold it in the bulb base but it was broken off and missing.
I went to the auto parts store to find some kind of fix. To my surprise they have a replacement plug for my truck. The down side is it costs $95 and it still had to be shipped! I decided I could figure something else out.
After I pulled the four 5.5 millimeter screws out of the headlight housing. I noticed there is enough room on either side of the light contacts to drill a hole thru the plug and the bulb to allow a pin to be placed thru both of them which would keep the plug and bulb socket from coming apart.
These are the pins or keepers I used.
A 1/16" drill bit did the job. I put the new bulb/socket and the plug together and drilled a hole on each side of the plug right thru the socket at the same time far enough back and at a width to avoid the contacts of the bulb socket and plug. (there is a rubber gasket in the plug that should be avoided but if you still knick it as I did you can fill the plug or the socket with dielectric grease that most car parts stores have and it will keep any moisture out but not effect the electrical current, do not use silicone, one day you will have to take it back apart for a bulb replacement or something.)
This is the bulb socket with the holes already drilled and the plug removed. This is what it looks like with the bulb/socket and the plug together and the keepers in place. And the back of the composite headlight housing with the assembly installed.
Make sure you install the bulb/socket and plug with keepers on the housing before you bolt the housing to the truck because there is not enough room to get your hands behind the housing to install the keepers with the housing bolted to the truck.
Since I replaced the stock bulb with a Sylvania Silver star I had to replace the driver side too so I didn't end up with a headlight being brighter or "whiter" than the other. Even though I was incredibly careful I still broke the plug on the driver side too! So now both of my headlights now have this mod on them.
The problem started with ABS light on steady and traction light coming on and off. Had a private shop check the codes and he cleared the codes. The light was out, then came back with the ABS pump running constantly, even with the key off. Had to pull the fuse to stop the pump. The code was C1095. Replaced the ABS module. Now the ABS light is blinking and the traction light is on constantly. Codes shown are P1000, B2477, C1095, and B2290.
View 5 RepliesMy E-brake light stays on all of the time. I have cleaned the sensor and adjusted the pads on the drum. Any reason why the light stays on? Its driving me crazy.
View 14 RepliesDashboard light is flashing. Sometimes it flashes sometimes it doesn't:no real pattern. It just started with no accident or jarring.
1998 F150 5.5 V....
We are planning on taking our 07 Explorer in to the dealer to have them check on a couple of issues. 4.0 with auto and about 45,000 miles on the ody.
1. While taking off after waiting at a stop light or slow speed traffic crawling there is a high revving sound coming from the engine compartment. Sounds like the fan is over revving compared to the engine speed.
2. Recently the truck has a hard time going into reverse. Physically hard to move the gear select lever and there is a hard "thunk" when it does actually shift into reverse.
I just want to be armed with information before heading to the dealer. The truck is still under a warranty plan, I just need to be prepared. Could it have to do with the Transmission Range/Position Sensor?
I have a 2000 Explorer Sport. Sometimes when I start it the "Theft" light stays on. If I kill the engine and restart the light goes out.
View 1 Repliesi've got a 2002 explorer xlt and the door ajar light stays on. all the doors properly close. What would cause this ?
View 3 RepliesRecently the hatch on our 98 Toyota 4Runner wouldn't "click" closed- my husband had to secure it w/ a rope for the ride home. Took it to the dealer the next day where they "degunked" it. Now it latches, but the open door/hatch indicator dash light is constantly on - the repair tech said he didn't know why or what to do about it! My concern is that the battery is being drained.
View 5 RepliesI have a 98 4 Runner the fuel light has come on, the fuel gauge itself is working fine. The low fuel indicator light stays on even on a full tank, would like to know if there is a reset button or is it attached to the fuel sending unit or is it a separate unit....
View 1 RepliesSo today I upgraded to a set of 18" interlagos from 17" denvers. My TPMS light is flashing then stays on (malfunction). Do I just need to reset settings via vagcom?
View 10 Repliesmy 2003 f-250 4x4 6.0 engine service light stays on all the time (for about 2 weeks now) it has 33,323 miles on it. it is running fine-no problems yet. no codes are showing up on a diagnostic test. What is going on?
View 10 RepliesHere are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
I have an 09 Accord (LX), one day the airbag light (SRS indicator) on the dash would stay on when driving, and the Seatbelt Reminder Indicator would detect the driver's seatbelt isn't engaged, even when it is.
A day later, the seatbelt indicator resumed normal operation, but the SRS light still remained on. I took it to two separate dealers and neither of them could connect to the SRS Control Unit to pull error codes from the onboard computer. They say I need to replace the SRS Control Unit to even begin troubleshooting this problem.
Can I replace my own SRS unit without accidentally triggering my airbags? Where do I order it? How do I make sure it is the correct part? Is it easy? Or I have a separate problem?