I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L with 190,000 miles. My wife was driving it and the vehicle stopped moving. Sounds like the torque converter whining and will not drive in any gear or 4wd.
View 1 RepliesI recently bought a 2001 x w 145,000 miles. The transmission was making a whining noise when i bought it but it still shifted smooth and ran great. The truck has been serviced by the local Ford dealer its entire life with dozens of routine maintenance performed. With 145,000 miles should I wait for the converter to go out and just install a new transmission. It only gets drove on the weekends to go to the lake.
View 7 RepliesI drive a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT 4X4 with 180,000 miles. A couple months ago my O/D light started flashing. When ever the code flashed i would pull over and I would take the negative cable off to get the codes to clear. While driving it, it would shift normally in till i go to about 40 mph. Then the light would come on and the torque converter would refuse to lock up. I would be in 4th gear at high rpms and when i came to a stop there would be a hard 2-1 shift. I tried solving this by changing the fluid and filter twice. I also replaced the valve body gasket and tcc solenoid. This solved nothing and it continued to do the same thing as before.
I then took it to 2 shops. One told me they go the code for the torque converter and that i would need to replace the whole tranny. The next place told me some internal pump was failing and that a rebuild was recommended. After this I continued to drive it knowing there was no point in trying to save the original tranny. My dads best friend owns a shop about an hour away and said he would replace it with a used one for free. All i had to do is pay for parts. Then one day while driving the transmission blew up and i lost all my gears. Then it was taken to my dads best friends shop. While it was there he replaced it with a used one along with a couple other parts like the starter.
After the used tranny was put in the same problems still kept happening. They tried clearing the code having no luck. I eventually picked it up my self and took it back home to deal with. I can now get the torque converter to lock up but it doesn't want to till I am going over 50mph and at high rpms. The light still comes on when i get to about 40 mphs. I tried clearing the PCM and that fixed nothing. Then i tried replacing the thermostat( It was bad anyways) thinking that the thermostat was not sending the right info to the pcm to make the torque converter lock. Now im completely stuck. What could be causing the problem. I know there are a ton of external sensors that control the torque converter lock up.
Girlfriend got a 98 ex. got a CEL for a torque converter clutch circuit. Changed out the TCC and the light is still on. I don't know what to do next.
View 1 RepliesHad the torque converter replaced twice on my 2007 Explorer Limited last December. Ford dealer did it once and then there were still issues so they had to replace it again. All seemed fishy to me.
Now a new issue that sounds like driving over rumble strips. Torque converter?
2000 Explorer 4.0 dohc avd. 150k miles. The torque converter lock-up function has started to drop out. It can happen after some miles and will light a warning light in the dash that the manual states as "contact tech" or something like that. Everything gets back to normal with just a "blip" to "off-position for the ignition switch and might stay normal for all between 5 minutes to several hours. Seems to me it is an electrical issue. Dirt, sensors?
Runs and shifts fine other than this. Only thing I have noticed is that the temp gauge reads pretty low but I think this started earlier and I understand that the temp gauge has its own sensor. Where to start looking?
I had the cam gears on my 2009 RX350 replaced and after the replacement I noticed that the engine noise is louder. It's louder after a cold start and idle. And it's louder when driving. Even the transmission sounds like it's struggling - it's taking much longer to shift into higher gear and occasionally it makes a whining sound when it shifts. Also, I'm hearing whining sounds when I steer the wheel (which was diagnosed as potentially caused by a faulty power steering pump, which by the way did not cause any noise prior to the work done). The replacement was done by a reputable Lexus dealer.
The Lexus dealership claims that the engine noise level is within acceptable limits even though it is much louder than before the cam gears were replaced. They deny that the replacement cam gears could be defective or that the replacement itself could have gone wrong. They have acknowledged the noise coming from the transmission and have offered to replace it (still under warranty so no cost to me). Now what is strange to me about all this is that prior to having the cam gears replaced, the engine noise was very quiet. The only occasional noise came from the cam gears on cold starts but lasted a second or two.
Now I don't know for sure that replacing the transmission will fix the noise issue. And it is so strange that the transmission seemed fine prior to the work done. What's happening here given the facts? Could replacing the cam gears somehow damage the transmission? Is there any interaction between cam gears and transmission. Aside from the transmission, what could explain the much higher engine noise (when not shifting so transmission not a factor) after the cam gears were replaced?
When running up through the gears under normal acceleration I can feel almost a double shift in 5th gear. It doesn't occur using tow/haul so I assume it is the TC locking up. Everything else seems fine. Truck has 9k miles, mostly towing. 2016 6.2 ....
View 6 RepliesOk so here is my problem now. I'm sure its in the tramny but not sure what else. My shift from 3-5 has always been a little hard. Yesterday on my way to work I noticed shifts 1 thru 3 were hitting hard. Once I got up to 65 mph it was okay. Then pulling into work when I shifted to reverse it didn't go into gear right away and then it would hit into gear. Later that evening on my way home from work it was shifting the same but seemed worse. Then my tow/haul light started flashing and it seemed like the torque convertor wouldn't lock in. It would just stay in 5th gear and the more throttle I gave it the rpms would go up but I would only get a little response from it. Then a few miles down the road it just completely shut off on me. It will not even try to turn over. I could also hear a noise coming from underneath the truck. Something ive never heard before. I really need to figure this out
View 14 RepliesI have an issue to where every once in a while my truck will not shift and when it does shift it slams into gear, and my overdrive light flashes and then I'll turn the truck off let it sit and crank it back up and it drives fine and the overdrive light is off. It shifts normal and smooth other than when this happens. Not sure if it is my torque converter or maybe a solenoid or what. My truck is an 07 f250 6.0 with 192,000.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
View 7 RepliesI've got a 2005 Avalanche (basically, a Silverado) which has suddenly developed a possible illness. Whenever I start the truck and begin moving (forward or reverse), I hear one (and only one) loud squeak that seems to be coming from the general area of the torque converter or drive shaft (but who knows exactly). The squeak doesn't happen immediately upon moving but always happens within the first 20-30 feet of movement and then no more. If I put the truck in park, re-engage the automatic transmission and start moving, I cannot recreate the sound.
However, if I turn off the engine altogether, restart the truck and begin moving, it happens again exactly as before. It happens every time the vehicle has been restarted, regardless of whether the engine is hot or cold. Once it's happened, I can drive hundreds of miles and it won't happen again until I turn off the engine and restart it. Further, I've determined recently that if I start the truck on a hill and let it roll while in neutral and without a foot on the brake, the squeak still happens. Therefore, it's not dependent upon the transmission being in gear or the brakes being applied!
I highjacked another thread yesterday but didn't get many responses so I thought I would start a new one... I've done some searching here but no one had any real answers or had a different reason for the vibration...
We have a stock '05 F150 with 24k mi that is having Vibrations not related to bad tires or a bad trailer. It rattles any cups or change that is in the center console area and the dashboard. It seems to come up through the floor.
Symptoms timeline:
The rear pops when you turn tight in a parking lot. I've been told this is normal because of the ratcheting LSD? Is this true?
The tranny fluid was low and we could not find where it was going. Put several qts in it and finally took it to the dealer where they replaced the bad seal between the transmission and transfer case. So we know they took the driveshaft out and the transfer case. Not sure if they dropped the transmission out.
We have a vibration from about 40mph-55mph under medium-full throttle. A lot worse when towing. Put it in neutral and it goes away. Rev the motor and you don't feel it. Only happens under load. Happens in 3 and 4th gear. Goes away once the torque converter locks up.
Am I going down the right path in saying it's a bad torque converter?
I have a 2010 explorer. I bought it with a lot of the lights, i.e. tire pressure, skid control, abs, service engine, air bag, service rcs and some others on and these systems are not working. a module was missing associated to the AWD system, I have put one in but awd still does not work through the 4 high and 4 low work. The automatic door locks does not lock when the vehicle starts moving. Some of the lights on the dash and doors don't work either.
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 2004 Ford Taurus has been acting up. It shudders sometimes at stoplights and also while driving sometimes. The auto parts store plugged in the computer and said it was the torque converter not working properly. We took it to "The Answer" in Evansville, Indiana for their advertised free diagnosis. They checked it out and told us basically the same thing. The torque converter was acting up. (Slipping? Catching? I don't remember the exact details...)
They said the remedy would be a big expensive job (install rebuilt transmission? Replace torque converter?). Is there anything we can do to prolong the inevitable such as fluid, filter change...flush...additive? We are resigned to the fact that we will need to buy another vehicle but wonder if we should buy one now since the Taurus may only last another few weeks or can we put off buying another car because the Taurus may last another six to twelve or more months.
Pulled 3 starters at the junkyard to replace one that has a bad solenoid. Have a 2002 Buick Regal LS with 3800 series II engine. Found some on 3100 engines and one from a 3800. My starter has about 10 teeth on the gear that engages the flywheel. Some of the ones I pulled had smaller gears with only about 8 teeth.
Why the difference? Also one GM Delco starter was slightly longer (about 1/2 inch) than mine and had a small black hollow tube about 1 inch long at the rear of the starter and at the bottom. It fell off when I touched it. Looks like it might be a drain hole in case some water gets in to the starter. What is this really for?
I have a 2003 Explorer 4.0l 4x4 auto. Yesterday day the passenger rear tire got a flat, so I put the full size spare on, and went about my business. About 2 miles up the road is a stop sign, so I start slowing down, and while slowing down I can hear a whining thumping sound from the front of the vehicle. It wasn't doing this before the flat, but right after I put the spare on it starts to do this. It only happens when slowing down, not under acceleration.
View 6 RepliesI bought an 07 F150 5.4 4x4 with 135k on it about 6 months ago. Shortly after buying the truck I began experiencing a shudder when lightly accelerating up a hill. Also when accelerating hard it would misfire. Thinking that it was plugs or COPs I changed the plugs and coils. That fixed the missfire issue but it still shuddered when accelerating up a hill.
I decided to take it back to the used car dealer where I bought it so they could fix it. On the way there the fly wheel broke. The dealer replaced it and thought that it was the cause of the problem but on the way home I still experienced the shudder. I took it back and they "scoped" it and found that the torque converter was bad. They replaced the TC and now there is no more shudder BUT now I have a new problem.
Now if I am driving at highway speed and let off the gas it feels like it immediately down shifts for a few seconds then shifts back up and coasts along until I give it gas again. There is enough resistance that it feels like a jake brake or that the breaks are being applied. Also if driving along at 30 - 40 mph and just holding the gas in the same spot maintaining 30-40 it feels like it down shifts and up shifts over and over until I either give it more gas or let off all together. Also a few times pulling away from a stop I will get a thump.
I have an appointment with a transmission shop in a few days but today on the way home I put it in second gear while going up a hill so it would not shift and it seemed like it was coughing and sputtering. So now I am wondering if that is what is happening and either feeling like or causing the down shift up shift issue.
If it is a missfire issue why would the new torque converter cause this? It has all new motor craft plugs and all new after market coils.
There are no check engine or other warning lights lit on the dash. I have a cheap ODB scanner and it shows two codes. B1676 which apparently is a Battery Pack Voltage Out Of Range or ABS voltage issue. The voltage is showing at 14.2 volts and there is no noticeable battery issues. The second code is a P1000 Drive cycle test not complete. (this code has been showing for some time the 1676 code is new since the torque converter swap)
One side note: after the TC change every time I start the truck the radio/cd changer cycles though all the CDs. like it it is checking for a disk so it clicks and pops around from a moment. The only time I heard this happen before was after having the battery disconnected. The clock is not reset though like I would expect if it was losing all power.
Replaced Troque Converter, Truck runs engine runs fine transmission won't shift out of 1st gear.
View 2 RepliesThis car has been giving me quite a bit of trouble lately. 04 Ford Taurus SES, about 97,000 miles on it. Just last weekend, it broke down on the highway. Found out the torque converter failed and needed to be replaced. I was suspecting that something was wrong with the transmission for a while now, because it would stutter sometimes when accelerating, and sometimes start shaking in the front when I turned it on. (It still stutters after having the torque converter replaced.)
Well now, a day after shelling out quite a bit of money to the dealer for this torque converter, the check engine light is on. I went to Autozone to check the codes, and they found P0300, P0305 (cylinder misfire) and P0316 ("crank sensor condition"). Is it possible the transmission is failing?? I found a bunch of complaints online about the transmission failing on the 04 Taurus. I'm trying to avoid more expensive repairs, but I don't want the car to break down on me again....
Also, a couple months ago, the check engine light went on a few times, but always went off within a day or two. Never did get it checked out because it didn't stay on long enough.
Where is the plug on the transmission to disconnect the TCC solenoid? I am trying to diagnose a lockup issue and need to disable the clutch from engaging for a test run.
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