Ford - Explorer :: 2004 V6 Shuts Off Randomly While Driving Then Restarts
Jan 16, 2014
My friend has a 2004 explorer v6 150k miles. Randomly shuts off while normal driving just going down the road, and when you try to restart it it starts up and runs fine. This used to happen every few months and is getting more frequent. The only code it has is a lean code from the o2 sensor, I'm trying to get more info on that but it's been like that before this problem started and possibly just a bad o2 sensor. Where to start and any know issues that would cause this? Sounds like a wiring issue are there any spots in particular prone to chaffing?
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I have a 96 explorer, and it will just shut off, but restart ok. V6 push rod motor. It has only done it 2 times in the last 2 weeks. One time I was driving slow, been running for about 20-30 min
The other time I had left it run, while I ran in to pick up a pizza, and my wife said it just shut off, had been running around that day , but started it about 15 min earlier. I fill it up before it hits 1/4 tank....
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04 with 170k miles. truck runs fine. every now and then truck shuts off while driving. turn it off the it restarts every time. Only code that comes up is number 6 injector. The contribution test injector is firing right. FICM voltage is 47.5. has new ipr and hpop also 6k miles ago. Could it be number 6 shorts out or something crazy killing truck? or maybe a crank sensor.
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I bought my daughter a Tiguan late last year, new 2012 model and since she has had it she has been having a serious problem. Whilst driving it randomly just shuts off and you have to restart it. AS you can expect this is extremely dangerous! Have had it back to the dealer now on two occasions and they cant find anything wrong, nor is their any error codes produced in the ECU.
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When driving down the road, usually at speeds greater than 55 mph and usually in hotter weather, the vehicle will just shut off. Temp gauge stays firmly in the normal range, coolant level is fine. The vehicle will eventually restart after 5-20 minutes before repeating it's little 'siesta mode'.(It turns over, just won't start) I've been all over the internet and can find dozens upon dozens of identical problems in 1998-2002 Bravada, BUT NEVER A SOLUTION! There are suggestions from wiring shorts to fuel pump to the temperature sensor to PCM - but nobody has the courtesy to get back online and post if they ever found what the actual problem was. I can only surmise that either people just don't feel like posting the solution, or they are still trying to figure it out (which doesn't bode well for me).
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My 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
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The car is about a week old. Today, the NAV system (ML version), re-started a few times and then shut completely off. Re-starting the car does not work. Got a totally "off" screen and no sound. 2014 350?
Is there some way to reset it or turn it back on? I can't imagine that a brand new Lexus would have this sort of issue.
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Module or cam/crank sensors most likely? How difficult are the sensors to replace if module doesn't fix problem? 120 k mileage.
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For those of you who have not purchased a new car for a while and are considering doing so in the near future I want to share the recent service experience I had for my 2015 Jeep Cherokee. I don't know if my experience was typical but I suspect it is.
I took my Jeep to the dealer for a routine service (LOF and tire rotation). The total time at the dealer was about 4 hours. Of that time, about 2 1/2 or 3 hours was spent in updating the software for the various computers. It had never occurred to me that computers were that pervasive in new cars.
Attendant to that, my Jeep has the 3.2L V6 engine, which comes with start/stop technology (when you stop at a stop light the engine shuts off and restarts when you take your foot off the brake). After the service was completed I noticed the start/stop function had stopped working. I contacted the dealer. The customer service representative spoke with the service technician, who contacted Chrysler. It seems that all of the software updates (there were a total of 6 of them) may take 3-7 days to become fully integrated into the system. I was told to wait a few days to see if the problem rectified. Sure enough, when I drove it today it had.
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I have an 07 explorer that has developed an new problem. While driving, I lose all throttle, regardless of whether I'm accelerating or just cruising along. I've checked the vacuum lines and fuels filter and pump to no avail. It. Has progressed from a once a week to the point that it's not drivable.
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My wife drives a 2004 2WD Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC motor. We have had a problem now for over a year and a half of it randomly dying. There is not telling when the engine might die besides the fact that it happens when you let off the accelerator to brake or make a turn. It only happens at slow speeds. At a stop light or stop sign usually. The car will always start right back up. It has been to a couple of Ford dealerships and they haven't been able to diagnose the problem. The check engine light is on and it is giving the code p0456. This code definition is an EVAP small leak detected. Probable causes for the code are:
1. Defective, loose, or missing fuel cap.
2. EVAP Canister broke, hose cracked or not connected.
3. Purge or vent solenoid defective.
4. Vacuum leak at engine.
I don't think it's the fuel cap that would be making the car die. I used carburetor cleaner (I know its not the safest ) and sprayed on the vacuum lines that I could find to try and diagnose a vacuum line leak but nothing seemed to effect the engine. Do one of the other probable causes from p0456 could be causing the dying or could it be something else???
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I have a 2004 6.0 powerstroke build date 07/03 when I am driving while on the throttle the glow plug light comes on then it wants to shut off rpms jump up and down sometimes it will shut off or if im coasting at idle and hit the breaks to stop and start turning the wheel it shuts off like you shut the key off my sct x4 says no communication to key this all happened out of no where went on a 100 mile trip got back home shut it off went out to leave started right up driving and about a mile it started when i let off the throttle been having a problem ever since.
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Its done this twice to me, once last week, once this morning. Drive a short distance after cold startup and it dies. Cranks strong but doesn't turn over. I waited a few minutes (took longer today than last week) and it restarts with a larger than normal puff of smoke, perhaps due to the multiple cranks, and the epc light comes on. Last week, I finished my errands with it on, it even went off after a restart. Today I didn't bother driving it because I was late for work. 137,xxx miles
Fuel pump and filter were replaced recently, relay was not because I could hear it and a new one didn't fix my fuel pump issue. One day I didn't hear the pump prime so naturally it didn't start but after opening and closing the door and waiting some time, it did prime and start.
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I have a 2004 6.0 133000 miles will be driving down the road will start to hesitate and looses powers and shuts off. wont start back up but if you wait 10 to 15 minutes will start up and run just fine. wont do it again. Just had new head studs put in new head gasket and egr delete 2 new injectors put in
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The past couple of months my ABS light has been coming on randomly. It comes on after several minutes (or hours sometimes) of driving then stays on. I wrote it off as a bad sensor but now, even when under light braking, if I hit even a small bump in the road, I can feel the ABS activating in the pedal. Seems like more than a sensor to me. I know I have a front wheel bearing going out but how would that be related? 2007 F150 5.4 2wd
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In hot weather, after hard driving for an hour or more, usually (but not always) with a/c running, the engine on my 1998 Almera (a/k/a N15 or Pulsar) stops. The idiot lights come on and if the radio or CD player was on, it shuts off. I can immediately shift to neutral, turn the key, and the engine restarts almost instantaneously, with no difficulty. (I've gotten quite good at this, and can restart the car within a couple seconds, even while I'm coasting as a result of the original engine shutoff.)No matter how hard I drive the car, the problem happens ONLY in hot weather. I've had the beast worked on by competent Nissan mechanics, but no one has been able to figure out the cause.
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This morning I realized that there is a pattern to our Prius incidents. What Sarah experienced last week is the same that Amy experienced when she drove the car the first day we bought it.
1. January: Amy had driven 20 highway miles with no problem. Park for 10 minutes. Started and crossed to the median of a two-lane Highway. stopped to wait. When tried to go, nothing. Will not move. 10 minutes later tried again and car worked fine for a long time after that.
1a. The car still had the original auxiliary battery. tested and found 12V battery weak. Replaced original battery with Duracell AGM vented battery for Prius. Car drove fine for weeks after this.
2. May: car sat all day. Turn on. Drove across parking lot. then noticed red triangle, VSC, brake warning lights all on. Lots of codes including high-voltage battery, transmission, and others.
3. drove fine for one week. Then going 60 miles per hour up a slight hill. heard the internal combustion engine shutdown. Red triangle, VSC, brake warning light came on. Reduced or no power steering or brakes. Coasted off the road. After 10 minutes, it drove fine again.
3a. I cleaned high voltage battery cooling fan. Drove fine for 10 days.
4. June: Sarah drove 10 minutes. Drove to stop sign. Had to wait 5 minutes for lots of traffic. When ready to pull out, push the accelerator, internal combustion engine shut down and the car would not move. Would not go into reverse. Put in neutral, and enough slope to roll backward to side of road. waited a few minutes, and it drove fine again.
Codes WERE P0A0F engine failed to start and c1300 anti-lock brake. the same codes were thrown in the previous incident. Noticed engine coolant a little low and added more.
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Was driving vehicle on highway at 75mph (speed limit) and the engine cut off. Just prior to this event, the vehicle was acting sluggish when stepping on the gas pedal. It took the vehicle from 5-10 seconds to respond to the acceleration requests.
Up until this point, the vehicle would work normally except for the transmission, (we've always had a problem with this from day 1), the GMC mechanics said they even took the trany apart and put it back together and couldn't find any issues. The transmission, when moving from a stopped position will not engage into gear for several seconds (4s - 7s) and when it does, the van pops into gear, jerking the van.
Vehicle: 2004 GMC Savana 1500 passenger Van
Mileage: 105,000
History: has had regular oil changes/tuneups
Primary Issue: Engine shut off while driving at 75mph
Secondary Issue: Tranny pops into gear after delay from stopped position (from park to drive or park to reverse)
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So I was driving my 2004 6.0 auto on the freeway today when the tow haul light randomly started flashing, nothing felt wrong until I stopped, then when I went to pull away it wouldn't shift down from 5th according to my livewire ts says under the commanded gear gauge. It shifts into 6 and overdrive fine. I turned the truck off, the light went off but as soon as I put it in drive it jumped around from 1-2-5 and back down until it locked in 5 again and the light started flashing again. What this could be?
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I was driving my Sonata this morning to work as usual. It was a wet morning but not raining. I hit a pothole (which I've hit before) going 35-40 mph. About 1-2 minutes later I was driving about 30-35 mph when I heard a click, lost power and then everything came back on. I believe during this "power loss" that I couldn't accelerate since I remember the rpm going down but I know that I took my foot off of the accelerator when this happened. I kept driving to work and about 2-3 minutes later while coasting down a hill at 35-45 mph. It happened really fast twice in a row.
Each time there was a click, the lights would dim or shut off completely (not sure since it happens so fast), the check engine light would flash, and I believe the radio turned off. Since it happened so fast (click, shut off, and back on) I didn't get to see if I could keep driving (accelerate) or if power steering was gone. I am guessing that they would be gone with my limited knowledge of what I was experiencing. I was able to drive 8 minutes to work without it happening again. I popped the hood looking for a loose connection around the battery but nothing was popping out at me. My car has 117,000 miles and has regular maintenance done. Any ways I could diagnose it further? Can O'reilleys check the code that flashed on and off if it isn't on anymore?
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Will be driving and the radio will just come on. This happens every now and then.
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