Ford - Explorer :: 2004 - Stopped Dead / Won't Restart
May 4, 2012
My father in law has an '04 Explorer with the 4.0. He tells me he was coming home from an errand and it stopped dead, like the fuel shut off. I checked the inertia switch and it was ok. He replaced the fuel pump but that didnt fix it either. His description is as follows: when he turns the key, it will start, run about 2 seconds, if that, and shut off. It will not restart, if you want to call it that, unless it sits for a 1/2 hour or so. Then it's the same thing all over again.
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I have been having issues with my 2001 sports trac 4x4 v6 sohc fuel in. 132k mileage. The problem is I can jump in and it will start first try, fuel pump is heard activating, idle is rough, feels like truck is about to die, pumping on the gas usually causes it to catch and smooth out......after 10 mins. or sometimes less than that truck starts to sputter, step on throttle it dies faster, sometimes when stepping on the throttle before it dies and a truck is able to rev up and then back to idle and not die.
But most times stepping on the gas when it begins to sputter after running for 10 mins or so causes it to die once it dies it doesn't start back up and when key is turned on and off, no fuel pump activation noise. I have scantool data take off an autel 619 saved to notebook text format. Those are my numbers for the scan tool, suggestions I have gotten so far are vacuum leak, failing fuel pump, bad o2 sensors, bad MAF.......so far replaced fuel filter and cleaned MAF....no difference.
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L with 190,000 miles. My wife was driving it and the vehicle stopped moving. Sounds like the torque converter whining and will not drive in any gear or 4wd.
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I have a 1992 Ranger with 2.3L that suddenly lost power on freeway and stopped and couldn't restart. Towed it to Seattle, WA and need Ford Ranger 2.3L engine mechanic to double check the timing since new belt installed to make sure it was done right before cover and rest of engine reinstalled.
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have 2002 Explorer with 4.6l that stalled at a stop light and upon restart, there was noticeable ticking and a sucking sound. The exhaust regularly sucks your hand against the pipe. Ticking is from all around the engine. Exhaust smells like rotten eggs.
Son was driving and we just got it back to house so I do not know much more than that. Where to start to diagnose.
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I placed my Corvette with a consignment seller this summer. When he had no action, I took the car back but...battery dead. Fully recharged it, car started immediately (first time in 2-months) but then died and will not restart. My ace mechanic has replaced fuel pump, distributer, but no fire. Indication is weak/no signal at he injectors. Could this be residual Theft Prevention system? I had that fail years ago and I pulled the module and the car has done fine for 4-years, until now.
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I have an 01 Explorer 5.0 AWD. I have an intermittent problem of both mirrors going dead. I'm guessing a broken wire in the drivers side door harness at the hinge. Had a window break there.
Looking for a wiring diagram for the mirrors? Kind of like to know what color wires I'm looking for.
Also if you have another typical this is what broke or place to look, by all means I'm listening.
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I have a 94 Sonoma SLS, V6/auto that has a weird problem of not restarting after I stop for fuel or at the house for a few minutes. The engine will crank normally but acts like it isn't getting fuel. I have had the fuel pump replaced already and I just replaced the fuel pump relay. I additionally replaced the coolant sensor(long shot there) when I replaced the radiator due to a leak.
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My radio worked fine. No issues. Next day got in car and radio was dead. No lights, no sound. I bought a new radio XO Vision brand.
I bought a Schoshe wiring kit and wired it up according the instructions. I have power. There are lights and everything but no sound. No static. Nothing.
There are posts about the amp...not sure if i have one. Mine is the 97 explorer that had the 6cd changer in the console.
There is a blue wire left over and the orange one. (Orange is for illumination so I assume I don't need this.)
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93 explorer 215000 miles on it runs like a champ 99.9% of the time. I am on my way home today on the highway going 75mph when all of sudden it started slowing down and sputtering. I quickly pulled over and as I did the car shut off. When I was pumping the pedal nothing would happen. I initially thought fuel pump is dead as I dont know if its been replaced. 45 minutes later on the side of the highway after multiple times trying to start, it does and I cruise the next 20 miles home no problems at all????
Got home started it a few times, NO PROBLEMS!
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SO the inlaws have I believe a 1996 Explorer XL-not too sure of year-that they will let us use long term if we get it running. Anyway problem is I have the keys, the keys wont turn any of the lock cylinders. I have dumped about a half can of both WD-40 and PB Blaster into all of em and nothing. It has been sitting out back for a year and a half so the battery is so dead. The driver and passenger windows are down about a quarter inch? I want to get in the car without spending any $$ as we will be having twins soon and a free car is too good to pass up.
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I just posted how happy I have been with my 2004 GTI 1.8t, then something strange happened. I was coming up to a light at night, turned on my turn signal and hit the brakes. The engine stopped abruptly and then began running fine without a restart. It was only for a split second. The lights went out, car died and began to run again very quickly. I noticed later that the clock had changed to the wrong time. I have noticed that lately at night the headlights dim slightly when I brake. That's the only clue. New battery, Alternator checks out fine.
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My 1998 Nissan Altima 4 cyl (auto) shut down on highway, would not restart, and had to be towed. My mechanic told me it is the computer. After seeing prices for new ECMs from a Nissan parts site, I am wondering if something else needs to be replaced. I don't want to put that kind of money into a 14 year old car with other problems and mileage of 155,000. Could whatever caused the computer to stop working be an additional cost. The mechanic provided minimal information and is actually recommending I get rid of the car due to a slow oil leak and control arm bushings that eventually need to be replaced. However, it just passed inspection and a few months ago, I replaced 4 tires and brake rotors.
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I've got a 90 240 DL that stopped dead and won't restart. Hit it with starter fluid and it fires off, but stops. Had no way of testing fuel pressure, so replaced in-line pump. Tank pump runs, can hear it through filler opening. Problem persists, even with new pump and filter. Pulled vac line to FPR but no gas leaks there. Also, new plugs, distributor cap and rotor, new air filter. Pulled MAF sensor plug, still no start. Checked FP relay (also spare) and jumped FP relay to test. No go. Where do I go now? Should I check computer codes? Replace FP regulator, crank sensor? Everything? Can the on-board computer be bad?
Trying to find a path to go on since the new pump seems to give plenty of pressure.
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I bought a 1999 Olds Alero. I bought it because I've always had good luck with Oldsmobiles, I've had a '91 Cutlass Calais, '89 and '92 Eighty-Eight, '86 Ninety-Eight, and an '84 Cutlass Supreme. All great cars. But I digress.
The car runs superbly when driving, but it idles down to 500-750 rpms after being stopped dead still for about 2-3 seconds. Fuel economy is not really what I expected, but I do not know what its supposed to get. I've been measuring it religiously and it gets 22-26 mpg depending on how much traffic I run it through.
I was told the engine (2.4L Twin Cam) was replaced. The car has 106k miles on it. I have replaced the spark plugs and their connectors, replaced the throttle body and Throttle Position Sensor, Idle Air Control Valve, and fixed misc. vacuum leaks. I have also replaced the air filter, and oil change. The car used to stall after it idled down, now it continues to run, but still the idle problem persists. I've been told a myriad of things from the Catalytic Convertor, The Fuel Regulator, Balance Shaft Bearing failure or shaft breakage. Does any of this sound like it could be the mystery problem?
At idle, you can move the throttle just enough to get it to idle at 1000-1200 rpms and it seems to like running there. Can't figure out why it idles down so low.
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My '98 4.0L Explorer Sport will begin to overheat if I'm in stopped traffic for more than 5 mins. on a hot day with the A/C on. I can correct it by turning off the A/C. Would a different thermostat work? If so, what temperature do I need?
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I'm in a situation where I may be having to tow my 3500# boat/trailer with my '04 Explorer 4WD (this is well within the max tow limit, per the manual). I have the 4.0L with the 5 spd auto tranny and 3.73ls gears. I've towed the boat a handful of times with this vehicle and had a good experience every time. Now I'm looking at this being my primary towing vehicle, towing once or twice a month in the summer. The car only has 48000 miles on the ticker and is in pristine condition, so mechanically it's sound.
I asked my mechanic what he thought of this arrangement and he hates the Explorers, so he's giving a biased response. Have any of you towed something on a somewhat regular basis with this, or a similar, vehicle? Any issues? My mechanic keeps going on about the transmission seal blowing when under a heavy load.
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2007 Ford Explorer, 51,000 gentle miles...
Stopped at a light and suddenly it sounded like fireworks were exploding overhead! The car was acting completely normal.
Light turned, about 15 minutes to ride home, just heard an occasional pop here and there.
Got home. Turned off the car and walked up the driveway. Suddenly the popping happened again. Again it was like fireworks going off, or thunder.
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I have a friend who has a 2003 Explorer and all his windows stopped working.
I checked all the fuses under dash and hood and found that none of them were shorted, even swapped my window circuit breaker off of my Ex and still could not get them to work. I took a test light to all the power wires in the door and noticed that he wasn't getting positive power and that he had negative to the switches. I ran a jumper wire from the battery and could get the windows to work. I removed the door panel and traced the wire all the way through the rubber boot at the door jam but could not get any juice. The circuit relay has power to it but don't know where else to look!
What else should I look for? Is there another place that he might've lost contact or another fuse/switch somewhere that I didn't see. Looking for a wire diagram for the power windows that would also kinda trace faults.
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My wifes 2002 explorer stopped taking fuel at the gas station. You can only put about 1/10 of a gallon in before it clicks off. I have already dropped the tank and checked the fill and vent tubes, and looked inside both of the charcoal canisters on top of the tank. Everything looks perfectly fine?
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I am the original owner of the 02 Explorer with 157K miles and recently started smelling antifreeze when I pull into the garage and turn the truck off. I had the water pump replaced less then 10K miles ago. Sometimes the overflow will expel some antifreeze but that has stopped. I checked and there are no leaks, that I can see. Needle on the temperature gauge reads right in the middle. What to check for? Could it be a radiator cap causing too much pressure?
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