Ford - Explorer :: 2004 - Randomly Dying At Slow Speeds - Code P0456
Jun 6, 2015
My wife drives a 2004 2WD Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC motor. We have had a problem now for over a year and a half of it randomly dying. There is not telling when the engine might die besides the fact that it happens when you let off the accelerator to brake or make a turn. It only happens at slow speeds. At a stop light or stop sign usually. The car will always start right back up. It has been to a couple of Ford dealerships and they haven't been able to diagnose the problem. The check engine light is on and it is giving the code p0456. This code definition is an EVAP small leak detected. Probable causes for the code are:
1. Defective, loose, or missing fuel cap.
2. EVAP Canister broke, hose cracked or not connected.
3. Purge or vent solenoid defective.
4. Vacuum leak at engine.
I don't think it's the fuel cap that would be making the car die. I used carburetor cleaner (I know its not the safest ) and sprayed on the vacuum lines that I could find to try and diagnose a vacuum line leak but nothing seemed to effect the engine. Do one of the other probable causes from p0456 could be causing the dying or could it be something else???
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I got gas last week and then my SES light came on. I took it to my local auto parts store and used the code reader. The code that it produced was P0456. The guys at the store wasn't useful because he said it could be as simple as my gas cap needs replacing or a much bigger problem. Should I take it to the dealer or is it something I can fix myself?
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My sons 05 F150 is randomly dying during low idle. We removed and cleaned the TB and cleaned the MF sensor. For example, if he is coming up to a stop or slowing down, the truck will die, but starts right back up. So far no CEL and truck seems to idle and run fine, just ever so often will die.
Anything to check on the 5.4s
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I have a 2004 6.0 that has been pissing me off to no end lately. I has a random dying/no start problem. If it idles for ten minutes, it'll die sometimes. And if I drive it and shut it off, it won't restart sometimes. I just drove it three hours on Friday, shut it off and it restarted immediately. Drove it around town all weekend and it started fine every time.
Now driving it home and stopped for fuel 45 minutes in, and it won't start. I have all sensor readings in spec except for I have no ficm sync while cranking. I have about 5k miles on new hpop, injectors, ipr valve, icp sensor, oil rail rebuilds, stand pipes, ficm and engine harness and injector harness. No codes either. If it sits for a couple hours it'll start fine. I've wiggled as many wires as I can and it still won't start. I have rpm while cranking on my edge too. Don't know if that would rule out crank sensor or cam sensor.
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I recently had my alternator and battery replaced due to my truck dying out randomly on me, tested the alternator and failed, replaced battery, and still got the same results, battery gauge seems to drop quickly, what could be going on, I have been told to replace the fusible link that goes from the battery to the alternator....
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So my car's emission systems light came on last Saturday and after work today I took it to the local Auto Zone to have an onboard diagnostic done to see what the code was, as some friends had recommended. I have a 2004 Ford Taurus with about 146,000 miles on it. It came back as only one code, P0456, which according to the clerk meant one of four things.
1.) Defective, loose, or missing fuel cap
2.) EVAP Canister Broke, hose cracked or not connected
3.) Purge or vent solenoid defective
4.) Vacuum leak at engine
I asked him if there was anyway to eliminate a few of these, but he wasn't sure and said I would have to take it to a dealer or a repair shop (which I expected). I was wondering any tips or tricks so I can eliminate a couple of these, and also if this is a five alarm fire I should be panicking about. I did call my Dad and he did not seem overly concerned about it. Plus my car is still running fine and the light has remained steady and not flashing. My friend at work suggested I put a piece of black electrical tape over it and ignore it, but I want to be sure it passes inspection in September.
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I'm getting used to just expecting a problem with this car every 3 months or so. Anyway, I have a 2004 1.8T GLI which lately has been idling and then stutters and dies. The first time it happened it turned right back over and started driving. So I drove it home and cleaned up the battery terminals and it didn't seem to have a problem since. Now about a month later I was just parked and turned it over.
It was on for about 1 second and then it stuttered and died. I can hear the starter engaging and turning the engine, but it won't turn over. I also checked the battery levels and its showing 12v so I don't think it's electrical? From scanning forums here it seems like the two prime suspects are spark plugs or the fuel pump?
Also checked the fuses and none are burnt. I could see it being the fuel pump because that would explain it randomly stuttering and dying. Also the car is at 149k miles and that is the original pump. Wondering if maybe it being at 1/4 tank isn't working either? Going out to buy a vagcom and see what codes it throws!
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I have started to have very intermittent problem with the blower fan. When I turn the fan on or auto, no fan blows.
If I hit the dash, over top of the display screen it will engage and start blowing.
2007 with 115k miles. I assume this is the blower motor dying a slow death.
I also assume this is not a DIY and will be expensive to fix.
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My truck has grinding noises when i am making turns from a stop or at slow speeds. Also my 4x4 dash light keeps flashing several times both when I am sitting still and when driving. Neither my 4x4 auto or 4x4 high work but the low will work. Trying to pinpoint where I should look to fix them. I did replace the 4x4 control mod as an attempt to fix this.
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My 2005 Mustang w/ 4.6L is giving a P0456 code and also won't let me fill it with gas completely. I think I've narrowed it down to the canister vent or purge valve. Looking for narrowing down which would cause the gas fill issue.
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2004 VW touareg v6 - engine light on - autozone diagnosed as code P0456. Possibly gas cap, so I replaced with aftermarket gas cap from auto zone. Light still on. What can I do or replace to fix problem. I read something about a N60 or N80 valve. Is this something I can buy and replace myself. Most of my mechanical experience is related to working on a 85 CJ7 with an inline 6cyl or Chevy trucks. If the N valve is a easy fix, any instructions and pictures of how to do this.
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I've noticed that when I take right or left turns at slow speeds I hear a series of clunks. Sounds like a pipe rolling in the bed. Guessing it has something to do with the rear springs??
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My friend has a 2004 explorer v6 150k miles. Randomly shuts off while normal driving just going down the road, and when you try to restart it it starts up and runs fine. This used to happen every few months and is getting more frequent. The only code it has is a lean code from the o2 sensor, I'm trying to get more info on that but it's been like that before this problem started and possibly just a bad o2 sensor. Where to start and any know issues that would cause this? Sounds like a wiring issue are there any spots in particular prone to chaffing?
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2007 Ford Fx4 with 6 inch suspension lift. Just rebuilt front suspension. I Had bad upper ball joints and one of the hubs was bad. Also had a bad tie rod end on one side. The tires began to wear excessively on the inside and quickly degraded.
I figured since I was in there, I would just change everything. I replaced upper control arms, lower ball joints, stabilizer bar links, strut assemblies, and inner and outer tie rods on both sides. Obviously everything is much better. But...
On test driving and running short errands near the house, it seems like I can still sense a slight thumping/clunking or bounce from the right side at slow speeds at times. It is hard to describe because there isn't really a sound associated with it. It is not constant; it feels a bit like a ball joint just starting to go. I cannot identify it with any of the new parts, they all check out and nuts are tight, etc.
I have not gotten an alignment yet. Getting new tires and alignment Saturday. Tires are in pretty bad shape. But, alignment isn't too badly off and at slow speeds around the neighborhood its more of a bouncing after a road seam or when accelerating from a stop, etc.
when I was doing the work, one of the half shafts had more play than the other. It was easier to move out of the way to install the shocks and lower ball joints. I could easily bend it over past the stabilizer bar link and use the link to hold it out of the way. Is this normal? I have never owned a vehicle with IFS and CVs before. Could the bouncing/clunking be caused by a worn CV joint, even in 2wd?
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My 2002 Toyota Prius keeps dying (triangle of death and OBD Code 3191) after running smoothly for a few seconds each time I start the engine. Clearing the DTC code allows restart. But the check engine light and triangle of death keep returning after a few seconds.
It has been doing all this since I recharged the 12V battery (which had been drained completely by a dome light left on for 3 days). Initial attempts to recharge the 12V battery were causing current spikes at charger, and (relay?) clicking sound under the hood. So I disconnected positive battery cable and charged the battery in isolation, then reconnected it to the vehicle after charging was complete.
When I reconnected the recharged 12V battery the vehicle (honking horn) alarm went off. But that stopped when I unlocked door with key. It may not be related, but I'm also hearing a fan-like sound (under driver seat) when ignition key is in run position. I don't recall hearing that sound in the past.
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We have an 04' Ford Explorer NBX 4x4 (auto). We are not the original owners. It has a several issues.
1. Acceleration seems to be responding a little slow when I depress the accelerator pedal. Like a lag of some kind. Engine appears to idle and run fine. Just that subtle lag from gas pedal to engine response. No trouble codes
2. There is a tick or tap coming from behind the dash. This morning as soon as a put the key in the ignition the ticking started but went away after a few minutes on the road. But comes back when I come around turns (like a rounding off ramp from the HWY). Cannot figure out what it is. No trouble codes.
3. My transmission (4x4 Auto) when cold is fine, but when it warms up it seems to go into 4x4 mode and wont come out. All I have to do start going up a subtle hill (or incline) and it engages the 4x4 (at least that's what it feels like). I can hear the sound of gearing. When the transmission shifts it thumps really hard. At low speeds when I let off the gas it thumps really hard. We took it to the tranny shop and they said it was the rear end.
So we had that rebuilt. It was ok for a couple of months (rarely drive it). But it is doing it again, but seems to be getting worse. When in this mode it seems to feel like its dragging. We recently serviced the transmission filter. Replaced fluid. We reset the computer to relearn daily driving. But didn't work.
I was thinking of replacing the 4x4 module and or solenoids in tranny, or 4x4 motor on transfer case, but I don't want to spend money if it doesn't fix the problem. No trouble codes. Are all these issues related to one another? Is one issue causing the other problem to exist?
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My truck starts sounding off like a foghorn at slow speeds and idle, goes away as soon as you tap the gas pedal. The truck is all stock. 2004 5.4L ....
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Only electrical mod that was done was the fog light mod so I can turn them on when I want... Is it possible that even if the fog lights are off, that they are pulling some juice from the battery ? In the last 6 months my car has died 4 times, ever since the fog light mod.
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Purchased one owner Prius from Honda dealer May 2014 with 92000 miles.Now 2 months later 94000. Both service departments of Honda and a Toyota dealer said my car handles normally for a Prius.The car dips from left to right while driving at slow and highway speeds. It feels like a boat moving through water. The suspension was said to be good.Driving it feels unstable, like a Montero Sport or a stage coach. I wanted to do a lot of driving this summer, but this feels so uncomfortable.
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I have a 2011 F-250 6.2l with a P0456 code. Is there a common fix for this issue?
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Having a misfire problem I can't track down. First issue was random cylinder 8 misfire code. Checked everything, nothing obvious. Cleared code, problem stopped and engine ran fine. Then came back, cylinder 8 misfire. Swapped coil with #5 but problem did not return. Since I assumed it would come back, I went ahead and bought Accell supercoils and new Motorcraft plugs and replaced them all (120k miles, no broken plugs ). Truck ran great on the test drive! Then it sits overnight and bam, cylinder 5 misfire as soon as I start it next morning. Then after messing with it I get cylinder 5 bad coil (code 355 I think). Put one of the Ford factory coils back back on #5, no change and still misfiring. New plug, new coil on all cylinders... Why did it move from #8 to #5? If it was an in injector, seems it would still be #8 since I did not mess with those.
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