Ford - Explorer :: 2004 - No Heat - No Vacuum Signal To Heater Valve?
Feb 22, 2015
I have an '04 Explorer Limited and lately only blows cold air. I've read about the blend door motors but it's been too cold in MI to want to do much--so the truck sits.
When I was troubleshooting the problem I found that I'm not getting any vacuum signal to the heater valve in the coolant line. Before I contemplate removing the console & doing surgery on my dash I'd like to know for sure what position the valve should be in when heat is called for.
All the other vacuum actuators seem to be working normally and there's no disconnected hoses under the dash; and no leaks. Coolant reservoir is full.
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I bought a 04 explorer with a bad thermostat which led to a bad head gasket, fixed that and managed to not have to buy the special tools or time it , but now that its running I don't have any heat. I have complete service records on this vehicle and there was never a complaint of the heater not working. The a/c works and the heat will adjust the a/c temp, but no heat. In trouble shooting it I found that I am not getting vacuum to call for the coolant to enter the heater core. When I apply suction to it, it will send the coolant. Even though I wasn't getting the clicking noise, I pulled the blend door actuator and it looks surprisingly good (not looking forward to putting it back in). Where to look next?
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02 F150, 5.4 gas motor, about 338k miles. Bought this truck well used so I would have a truck when I needed one. Someone has removed the heater control valve. I've got a new one, but there is a port on the top for a vacuum line, but where this line plugs into.
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On a 2000 F-350 with 5.4 engine, where does the vacuum line enter the cab? I got a truck in with no vacuum signal to the heat controls, and it has a slight miss at idle. Both of these are signs of a vacuum leak, but i can not find the line going into the cab.
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I've checked just about everything, coolant level is good, engine gets hot, heater control valves moves, blend air door moves, the heater hoses don't feel as hot as I think they should, but the gauge reads in the middle, I burped it thoroughly and still no heat , blower works i actually can switch the blend air door manually, but no change! what am i missing? t-stat was changed too. 2001 sport trac....
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I just bought a used 98 Acura 3.0CL. I've noticed that when the heat is cranked, it doesn't blow hot at all. I did some quick research and came up with two answers thus far; check the antifreeze coolant and that I may need to replace the heater control valve. Am I "warm" on the area?
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Can't find the PCV air inlet hose to the crankcase on a 5.4 3 valve V8 2006 F150. Most PCVs let air in on one bank and out the other bank on a V engine, but this engine has hoses going from BOTH banks valve covers to the intake manifold. The crankcase is under vacuum(8 inches vacuum at dipstick tube, 6 inches at each valve cover). There should be air flow in the crankcase not vacuum. No air is getting in which results in a vacuum in the crankcase.
Once the vacuum builds up enough after a few seconds when the engine is started the engine begins to whistle where air is being sucked in(can't figure out where) at a seal or gasket. If air could get in as it should there wouldn't be a vacuum in the crankcase and the engine wouldn't whistle. Where is the air inlet hose for the PCV system on the 5.4 3 valve V8? It must be clogged or blocked resulting in a vacuum. I can't find the hose and Alldata doesn't show it.
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I have a 2004 Ford Explorer EB with little to no heat. I keep reading about this blend door actuator with the stripped gear (even though I don't have a clicking noise from under the dash). I started looking into it this past weekend and I don't have the actuator in my car. My Explorer has the electronic dual climate controls with rear heat/AC. I eliminated the control valve by using a straight piece of heater hose. Both lines going in and out of the firewall feels hot to the touch.
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It only does it when it is fairly cold out and when it sits overnight. I will get into my 2000 4.0 Explorer and when I put my foot on the brake my right side turn signal comes on, it doesn't flash it just comes on and stays on. When I let off the brake it goes out. It will do it maybe four or five times and then work fine all day. Its just the right side and the indicator on the dash comes on too. I haven't looked at a wiring diagram yet to see if there is a connection between the two.
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07 Prius has 188,000 miles on it. Inverter Pump replaced 10/2011. At that time, dealer recommended "replace Heater Pump-making noise and pending code." I have not done this repair yet. In 12/2012, the heater is no longer operating instantly and takes about 10 miles to heat up and occasionally acts up and supplies heat intermittently. About a month ago, the Check Engine Light came on. I noticed that when I re-screwed my gas cap on, that light would go off. About 2 weeks later, light stayed on continually so I replaced gas cap. Light still will not go off and I have driven it 6 times on trips more than 40 miles each.
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Have a 2004 Sport Trac with approx 78,000 miles. My daughter drives the vehicle around town. Approx. 2 weeks ago when she started it a loud squeal came from under the hood. I raised the hood and determined it was coming from the serpentine belt. I sprayed some lubricant on the belt and the sound went away, temporarily. I took the vehicle to a local mechanic. He thought the belt needed to be replace and did so. He showed me the old belt and commented that the old belt was in great shape and he could not determine where the sound came from. He also was able to spray lubricant on the belt and make the sound stop for a while. The squeal is definitely rpm related and also gets louder if the heater/ac fan is turned on. I have been reading alot on the internet about such problems with this vehicle and am getting really concerned. If it were the harmonic balancer would the vehicle still be operating this length of time since it started making the noise? What does replacing the harmonic balancer involve.
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I have a 2004 Sport Trac XLT (without sunroof). I recently noticed my rear driver side turn signal was out. Turns out i have quite a few cables corroded from within. The cables are warped together as one fat cable running from the front to the back along the driver side in a "tunnel".
The reason for corrosion seems to be that underneath the floor it's soaking wet. It's dryer towards the break and more wet closer to the mid console. (it may just dry quicker near the break.
The water does not smell of anything. We haven't had rain for a while and i would be surprised if it was rain that staid for so long. All in all that makes me suspect the AC.
I'd like to stop the leak and then replace the cables, at least the stretch where corrosion have occurred. How to troubleshoot this? I am using the car to commute so I can't rip it apart too much.
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What this part it is? It sits over the alternator on the driver side and looks like a couple vacuum hoses plug into it. Mine is making a very loud buzzing noise.
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I have a '98 Ford F-150 XLT, 2WD, Short bed, Ext. cab, 4.6L, automatic trans. with 65,000 orig. miles. I bought this truck new. When I have the A/C or heater or just outside air coming in through the dash or floor vents, the air will switch to coming out of the defrosters when I accelerate and then the air will return to it's normal position when I let up on the gas. Is this caused by a bad vacuum check valve and if so where is it located and what does it look like??
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Troubleshooting my heat/AC selector (manual) problem in my 2002 F150 SuperCrew. I started with the "all air through the defrost vents issue" that's a fairly common problem. I found that the vacuum line thru the firewall (to the selector controller, I think) had a hole in it chewed by a mouse. But, while I was in the process of disconnecting the line from the T on the engine side of the firewall, the rest of the line just easily pulled through the firewall!.
Now I need to find where the line was going to and get a new one connected. In looking under the dash, I didn't see an obvious answer to my question of where the controller is located that the vacuum line was connected to. Where that connection is made behind the dash and how do I get access to it? Hope I don't have the drop the whole dash.
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Just recently purchased a 2004 Eddie Bauer Explorer w/ 110k. Took a Snap On scanner with me to look at it. ABS light was on and I also get a 4x4 high flashing light every 2-3 minutes. Blinks 8 times then goes away. Scanner showed the RF speed sensor isn't sending any mph signal back. Just reads 0. Will my problem be a new sensor or is the sensor getting a dirty signal trying to read dirty teeth on the hub? Also, will fixing this stop out with the blinking 4x4 light?
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I need to put a check valve into the vacuum line that runs to the gas tank. I know that this line is somewhere in the rear passenger side of the engine compartment, but there's so many lines there that I find myself confused when I look at it.
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Turn signal flasher doesn't work in the heat. What gives?
All lights work. Turn signal stalk works fine. It just flashes a couple of times, then stays on. Everything works fine in cool weather, but it rarely works at all when the temperature outside is above 90 degrees. Very annoyed.
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Swapping a 2004 2.4 motor and trans into my 03 that has a locked up motor. Pulled the motor out of the 2004 yesterday and started tearing into my 2003 today and noticed that the 2004 motor and harness doesn't have the provision for the vacuum control valve mounted in the air cleaner lid like the 2003 has. Since I'll be using the harness and ECM from the 2004 into the 2003, wondering if I can just either use the lid from the 2003 and keep the VCV(hook lines back up) but not have electrical connection going to it. It will basically be pulling the vapors 100% of the time since there is no power going to it and it's a naturally open valve.
Using the harness from the 2004 that I pulled with the engine, there is no way of hooking up to the VCV since the 2004 didn't have one(hence no electrical connector).
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This is my other question. I have an APR program and turbo-back billy boat exhaust. I installed a boost gauge that gets the reading off of the intake manifold (fuel regulator.)
So if I'm just tooling along, short-shifting and only using 1/10 throttle, and my boost gauge never reads above -5, let alone 0 or positive, why does my valve release pressure?
Why would there be pressure to release if there is a vacuum, according to the gauge? I wouldn't think that a recirculating or blow-off valve would work in reverse.
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While diagnosing a problem with my rear AC not working, I pulled the rear plenum apart. I noticed the rear heater coil was really hot even though I did not turn the heat on at all that day.
I suspect a bad heater control valve. The one that stops hot coolant from going to the core when the AC is on. I have manual temp controls so I assumen it is vacuum controlled. All data does not give me a location or vacuum routing specs for the valve so I am asking here.
1) Where do I find the heater control valve?
2) Does it shut off the coolant to both the front and rear heater cores or just the front?
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