I have a 2004 explorer that has a clicking/rattling noise in the front of the engine. What i found is that the bottom pulley has a sleeve or ring inside of that pulley that is just floating loosely back and forth. What this is or what it is supposed to be ??? If it is a bad part, what is the best way to fix it ?
View 12 Replies2004 F-250 FX4 SB 5.4 V8 140k
Issue: rattling/clicking noise from passenger front wheel area at speeds lower than 15MPH, made worse under light braking and/or turns to the right.
Clicking sound is speed dependant.
Spindle? Hub? Balljoint? Sway joint? Rotor Issue?
Recently, my 04 accent (97,000 miles on engine and auto trans) has started to develop a rattling or Clanking noise coming from the engine at low RPM's. I flushed the engine and changed the oil and oil filter, thinking it could be due to oil clogging the HLA, But this was a no go. The engine is still making the noise, and I think it is starting to get worse.
The noise only happens when the car is idling at low RPM's. As soon as I rev the engine past 1000-1500 RPM's, the noise stops. The noise is worse when idling in gear, either reverse or drive, however as soon as you accelerate past 1000-1500 RPM, the noise goes away, until you decelerate to low RPM again. I'll try to take a video of it and post a link to it on here tomorrow.
I have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
I have 98 ford explorer sport 4x4 does has a clicking noise coming from the front driveshaft that connects the transfer case to the front differential. At first we thought it was the front drivers side cv joint which we replaced. nothing changed. there is still a noise apparently coming from the front driveshaft. we can not tell if it is the front differential or the transfer case itself. The noise is being transfer through the front driveshaft. It sounds a bearing is going bad.
View 1 RepliesFor the last few months I noticed that there is a rattling or clicking noise that frequently comes from the front passenger seat area but only when no one is in that seat. If the seat is being weighed down by someone sitting there, there is no rattle or clicking noise. It generally occurs when I'm driving on bumpier or textured roads. It suspect that it's coming from something underneath the seat, like the lever that adjusts the seat forward and backward underneath it.
I brought the car to a local dealership and they took a look. After a few hours with them, the car was returned to me. They said they'd found that the lever that adjusts the seat forward/backward was not tightly screwed down all the way on one side, so they adjusted that to make it tight. They also found a coin on the rail underneath that seat and removed it too. However, I drove the car afterward and it is still making the noise.
I've searched this forum and already think I've ruled out the seat belt or the buckle as an issue. I put on the seat belt for the passenger seat and the noise still happens. It's really annoying when driving on a freeway!
2005 F150 Lariat package with 63,000 miles. Ok... thought I had a cat crawl up in thew engine to stay warm...but alas no cat found. Got off of work and headed home, clicking/rattling noise from the front passenger side dash, then a whirring noise followed shortly there after by a dull thud (hence the cat scenario). Happened twice on the way home (~15miles) ...
View 1 RepliesI've only started noticing this recently. I have a 2004 W12 with roughly 75k miles. It seems to only happen after the engine warms up, but even then its seemingly randomly. I'll notice a clicking sound coming from the front passenger side of the engine. The sound increases in frequency as I rev the engine. I have no check engine lights and no noticeable loss of power. Its not a radiator fan since the sound is still audible when the hood is open. I'm getting no CAN errors with my generic OBDII scanner (I know its not a VAG-COM but hey).
I've been reading up on the possibility of it being a bad valve lifter. I don't know much about them and was hoping to get some advice here before I go about asking my dealership to diagnose the sound. I found this random article through google vaguely talking about replacing the lifter. The person says its "reasonable and inexpensive".
I also stumbled across this thread here describing what sounds similar. Although the thread provides no closure it seems towards the end people are hinting that the engine needs to be pulled? This is contradictory to the first source I found. My question is, say it was a bad lifter, whats the extent of work required to fix it? The Parts seem to be really cheap if I'm looking at the correct stuff?
So i'm only a week and a half into owning my Elantra, 800km on it and today when i started the engine i noticed a clicking/rattling sound, like the noise when someone sticks a piece of paper into a fan. Anyway it's quite minimal and you could hear it louder when you accelerate. I never noticed it before, even when i test drove the vehicle.
View 3 RepliesI'm new to the forum and Excursion ownership but was hoping someone could save me some time and aggravation chasing a rattle in my 2004 2wd 6.0 PS. It seems to be coming from the front driver's side since I can feel it through the steering wheel. As of now, it's nothing major since it doesn't seem to affect tracking but I'm afraid it's getting worse.
I'm thinking it's a worn bushing but as I'm less familiar with the vehicle as y'all are, maybe you can point out the weak points that may be causing my issue. I plan on jacking up the front end tomorrow and inspecting for play. I'll let you know what (if anything) I find. Are there any known issues I should be aware of?
My 2006 AWD LTD 500 has about 52000 miles on it; a slight rattle/clunking noise is intermittently heard on driver's side in engine compartment. Took it in to dealer who says motor mount is cracked and front stabilizer bar joints are worn and both need replacing. Car has only been driven on highways or for short trips (3-4 miles) and has had no impacts nor been driven over rough roads or run over any potholes or such. Should the motor mount be damaged? At 52K miles?? Never heard of such a thing. Ditto, the stabilizer bar joints: worn out in under 60K miles? What can I do about this? Who seek relief from? Ford warranty is, of course, over, and supplemental warrenty will only cover motor mount replacement but not stab bar. Are these parts routinely wearing out at such an early date that repair shops can reap the rewards???
View 4 Replies2003 Ford Sport Trac with 4.0L SOHC engine
I started having this problem after I decided to do a tune up because of another minor unrelated problem (start up taking 2+ cranks sometimes and fine when gas is full... I'm going to replace the fuel pump for that but not until i resolve the more pressing issue)
Before the problem I had spark plugs and wires (all but #3) replaced by my dad and he also put in some Fuel Cleaner into the gas tank. He took it to a local mechanic and had the mechanic replace the #3 spark and wire and check the others and also replace the fuel filter.
After that my car was taken to jiffy lube where engine oil was changed... as well something else but I dont know what because no one is able to tell me.... my dad had one of his employees take it and the employee took it upon himself to get other things done but he doesn't know what.
And then when I got my car back after the weekend is when this issue started.
First I noticed a rattling (like a plastic is caught on a fan blade and it is hitting something as it goes round and round) right after engine is started. And on the roads, when I try to accelerate, it will accelerate- but very slowly as if my engine had no power.
When I floor my gas pedal, the car will continue to drive at a constant speed and I can start to hear a really fast rattling which I am not sure if it is the same thing making the rattling sound I hear at start up.
I've gotten the following codes : 300, 301, 303, 316
I have since then had my spark plugs rechecked, wires for #1, 2, 3 and 4 replaced with another brand. There was no long term change but I have noticed that every time messed with the wires (when spark plugs were changed, when wires were changed and when sparks were checked... etc) for about 3 drives right after it the car feels more powerful and smooth and then it will go back to driving like crap.
I have also changed the CKP sensor (advice of the Auto Zone) and there has been no change.
I have also replaced the coil pack this weekend and no change.
I have bought the more expensive wires but didn't change them since 2nd set for 1, 2, 3 and 4 has not made changes.
Currently: Only thing I have more noticed is that the car when first driven, feels okay at start up. I can accelerate from 0 to 30 with decent power and time and as long as i dont floor the gas and only lightly depress the gas the car will continue to accelerate with decent power and speed.
However, anytime the engine is strained (like going up a hill) I loose speed. and AFTER any time the engine is strained, i will no longer be able to accelerate with decent power and time.
The car at this point feels like it it trying, almost sounds and feels gritty if that makes any sense, and if i try to at least keep speed, the engine sounds change but no increase in speed. At this point I usually just try tapping lightly on the gas and it will eventually get upto 30mph and of course more effort to go beyond and continually increase the speed.
It takes me a good few minutes for me to go from 0 to 35 and another few minutes to get upto 45. (Now everyone drives around me after a complete stop because I cannot even get to 20 right away like most normal working cars.)
I really would hate to replace one part at a time to play guess and check but I also don't know any true mechanics in the area that can really drive, listen and look and determine what exactly is going on without playing guess and check with every little and big parts that are involved. I have seen some people replace the intake manifold, O2 sensors, CKP/CAM sensors, cylinders...
I'm pretty sure I know what the problem is since when I hit the brakes it stops. When I took the left side tire off and right side I compared and there is a thin metal sheet that has room to move on the right, but is tight on the left. When the brakes were done before maybe it didn't seat correctly or something. Just wondering what that plate is called so I can order one and change it. Driven that way 2 years, but it bugs me when the window is down and people probably think my car is falling apart. Maybe I'll search for a brake diagram.
Edit: I think they might be called "anti squeal shims". I saw a picture of them, so maybe they didn't put enough high temp grease, but the left side is tight and the rights side you can move a couple milometers side to side so I'm sure that's the jingling noise.
My 2004 F-150 5.4 has a rattling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine when at operating temperature. The cam phasers and all related parts have been replaced. The reason I was prompted to change the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners was due to the engine stopping on me as I returned home from an errand. The engine had already shown signs of needing the phasers replaced.
The engine runs very smooth while warming up. Vehicle lacks power and has a rough idle after warm. Took the truck to a local mechanic, in the process of making a diagnosis, he performed a compression test. Cylinder 3 psi was much lower than the other 7 cylinders, the mechanic recommended replacing the engine (possible bent valve).
I have a Haynes manual, have searched youtube and checked this and similar forums, I have yet to find instructions on the removal of the head from the block.
(2004 Ford F-150 5.4 3v)....
First issue started a few weeks ago. When turning left at a speed > 20mph or when turning wheel quickly I get a rattling noise, which is more prominent with the driver window down, so it sounds like it comes from the driver side front wheel, but not quite sure. It is fairly loud as I have had pedestrians look at my car when turning because they can hear the rattle.
Second issue started this morning but has persisted every time since. When the car is cooling down, we get that whirring noise, which I presume is thr coolant pump. That noise also happens now when I enter the car, and it is accompanied by a knocking noise as if somebody is hitting the outside of the car repeatedly. This is quite unnerving as it sounds like something is hitting the bodywork of the car. It stops immediately when the normal whirring stops.
I had the steering and water pump recall done in november last year, could this be related to that? Forgot ti add the car has done 49000miles....
I have a 93 Ford explorer, when I start off at a high speed I hear a rattle noise, when I'm going up a hill it starts to make the rattling noise and the check engine light comes on, also when going up the hill when this happens I'm going around 110 and it kinda like powers out slows down on its own to 80, when I have the pedal down all the way you can hear I think over drive kicks in the rattling stops but no power and when I release the pedal a little the rattling noise comes back. Also the RPM is at 4 when i have the pedal all the way down.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford Explorer. Every time I start my car and it has been off for more than a couple of hours it makes a clicking noise that goes away as the car warms up. This happened once last fall and I took the car in for an oil change and the noise got much better then completely stopped. It just came back within the last couple of weeks, but I just had an oil change about a month ago. I checked the oil and it's not low. The noise was going away after less than a minute, but now it has started lasting more like five minutes (depending on how long it takes me to get on the freeway). By the time I arrive to work the car is quiet.
I keep reading that this probably has something to do with the lifters. Some people say that it might be engine sludge, etc and that a cleaning agent might be useful. Other people say that cleaning agents might be harmful. Someone told me I just need to get my lifters replaced. That's an expensive repair. I am just not sure what to do and I am afraid that just taking it to my mechanic will lead to getting new lifters whether completely necessary or not and I can't really afford it.
My son was driving my 2002 Explorer, 4.0L, 200K+, yesterday, and it started making a clicking noise under the hood. It clicks in time with the engine running, but it doesn't sound internal to me. It's more like it's in some of the apparatus on top of the engine, fuel delivery system. It doesn't sound like a timing chain to me, but I could be wrong. Maybe I'm just trying to be optimistic, but the thing runs fine, and all of the gauges are normal. I'm going to drive it today to see for myself. Any other part besides the timing chain?
View 6 RepliesSo, last December, I was sitting at a stop light, when my engine suddenly started rattling. "Check Gauges" light on, ZERO oil Pressure..
Took car to mechanic, he removed the valve covers, and scoped out the timing chains with a camera, and found everything intack, and no chips out of the timing guides (125K miles on the engine). no sludge, nothing.
Engine runs fine (for 5 seconds at a time) no issues. Removed Intake to check the Oil Pump Drive Gear, all is well.
Removed Oil Pan Inspection Plate, All is well. ZERO plastic chips in the oil pan from timing guides, ZERO sludge, all is clean.
Back up to top of engine, pull the Oil Pump Drive Shaft using needle nose pliers from the top of the engine. BUT!!!
Only the top 8 inches of the Oil Pump Drive Shaft comes out! The bottom gear is not present! Is it still in the oil pump?
OK, so I need a new oil pump drive shaft. no Problem.. BUT: how do I get the broken oil shaft out of the engine before I put a new one in? Use a magnet? Rubber hose?
My wife and I have a 2006 Ford Explorer that my wife has "learned" to love. When we first bought it she was driving a Civic and was sure that she was never going to be able to park the Explorer without crashing. Anyway, I digress. Last summer I noticed that every time I got in to drive it (I have the 2001 Civic now) there is a "Clicking" sound coming from the dashboard. I can't pinpoint exactly where in the dash it is coming from but it drives me NUTS! My wife can easily ignore it but I can't. It seems to be worse this summer so far and it only happens in the summer.I plan to record the noise and if I am fortunate enough to be able to speak with you about it I will have the recording of it. Anyway, I can't take much more of the clicking!
View 2 RepliesI just purchased a 2003 Explorer and the heat doesn't work. When I turn the fan to hot it makes a clicking noise~as I've been searching around these forums it sounds like it the blend door actuator?? Does this sound right?
View 4 Replies