Ford - Explorer :: 2004 - A/C Blower Keeps Blowing Fuses
Apr 15, 2012
Why the rear Auxiliary A/C blower on a 2004 Sport Trac keeps blowing fuses and how to fix it?
View 12 RepliesWhy the rear Auxiliary A/C blower on a 2004 Sport Trac keeps blowing fuses and how to fix it?
View 12 RepliesMy 1989 740GL has a blower motor that doesn't work; I looked into it and discovered a blown 30A fuse. So I replaced fuse and guess what? "POP"! No luck... It keeps blowing them, so I really haven't looked that far into it, but where I might start?
View 2 RepliesI'm in a situation where I may be having to tow my 3500# boat/trailer with my '04 Explorer 4WD (this is well within the max tow limit, per the manual). I have the 4.0L with the 5 spd auto tranny and 3.73ls gears. I've towed the boat a handful of times with this vehicle and had a good experience every time. Now I'm looking at this being my primary towing vehicle, towing once or twice a month in the summer. The car only has 48000 miles on the ticker and is in pristine condition, so mechanically it's sound.
I asked my mechanic what he thought of this arrangement and he hates the Explorers, so he's giving a biased response. Have any of you towed something on a somewhat regular basis with this, or a similar, vehicle? Any issues? My mechanic keeps going on about the transmission seal blowing when under a heavy load.
I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
About 11pm 2 nights ago on our way to Florida, hit a nasty bump on I-95 in SC and there went the fuse to the tail lights and dash lights (#17 I believe). Obviously something shook loose from the jarring of that bump and blew the fuse. I've blown this fuse before, but I thought it was due to a cracked LR tail light assembly holding water, which was replaced last weekend.
Now I replace the fuse, and as soon as I hit the headlight switch...it blows again. Holding my breath running around FL at night until the man pulls me over for no tail lights. So far, here's what work has been done:
- Replaced entire LR tail light assembly with new one, new bulbs, new bulb plugs - Sprayed electrical cleaner all over harness plugs, and used electrical grease to hook it back up
- Sprayed electrical cleaner into both trailer plugs
- Did replace both batteries last weekend - noticed on the drivers side battery appears to be some relays next to the battery on the fenders - one appeared to be beat up probably due to prior battery replacements - no clue what they do
I am at a total loss. Worse fear is I can't figure this out and I have to turn it over to the dealership
My 2009 prius blows hot air from the fan even when the fan/heater is off. This usually happens when I am driving >40mph on the freeway and as soon as I speed up to merge or overtake, the fan turns on and blows hot air?
View 5 RepliesSo I pulled into my driveway yesterday about 5 minutes after my low fuel light came on and as I was making the final turn around my house the engine cut off. Luckily I was able to park in it's normal spot before coming to a halt.
Anyway at first I though "out of gas" even though I knew I'd driven further with the light on. After putting in 3 gallons still no luck. I noticed with the key on no noise from the fuel pump so I checked the fuse and relay both were fine. I then checked all the other fuses and noticed the large 30amp PCM fuse under the hood was blown.
When I replaced it, it blew instantly. I was able to hear the fuel pump come on for a brief second before it blew out. Unsure if the two were related I then pulled the Fuel Pump fuse and replaced the PCM fuse one more time and again it blew. The motor cranks over but won't fire (not getting fuel.) Where I can start to correct the issue.
I am having a problem with my dashboard lights blowing fuses. I bought an 87 Ranger XLT, and found that the dash lights didn't work. The 5 amp dash light fuse was blown, and the dome light would not come on using the switch. I replaced the fuse with a 15 amp and replaced the headlight switch which had melted the connector at one of the terminals. The dome light now comes on using the switch and I was able to get the dash lights to come on at a very low setting, but the headlight switch will smoke some.
But when I turn the switch to brighten the dash lights, it causes the tail light fuse to blow. I don't see how the dash lights could blow the tail light fuse, but it happens as soon as I install a new fuse and brighten the dash lights. What is going on? I think it is probably a short somewhere, so I pulled the instrument cluster and looked at the wires, didn't see anything exposed.
My 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
Just recently I started blowing PCM fuses (#19 in the fuse panel) After replacing lots of fuses, I finally figured out what was causing them to blow. I unhooked the overdrive switch, and no fuses blow. I can't see anywhere where the wire is chafed. Maybe it is chafed, and I can't see it or the switch is bad. Can the whole OD switch be replaced? If so, how??
View 13 Replies2000 7.3L SD .. The check engine light is on and if you hook it up to the reader it kills the engine and if you replace the lighter fuse it has power and if you hook it up to trailer it blows fuse and no power any...
View 4 Replies2003 f150 supercrew with 166,000 on it. Daily driver. Keeps randomly blowing 10A fuse under dash that controls ABS4X4 urn signals. No routine causes. Just blows at random times. Fuses were blowing instantly upon replacing then stopped. Doesn't blow when turning switches for turn signals or when turning it to 4x4. Just does it randomly. Sometimes will go months without blowing. Tore dash apart and can't find any wiring issues there. Could be somewhere else? Is ABS4X4. Turn signals going bad?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L. Suddenly the blower-motor stopped working. I looked at the under-hood fuse panel and noticed a few of the fuses in the fuse bus-bar were blown, however I'm not sure how the bus-bar is removed. Is this most likely my blower-motor problem? If so, how do I replace those fuses?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 Olds Alero. The AC compressor went out so my father in law and I replaced it. It worked fine for about one month, not it keeps blowing the a 10 amp fuse (can't remember which one at this moment, my wife is at the store with the car). I have been told that it is a bad wire, I can't see any pinche wires and have looked up to where the wires go into the tape/plastic casing. I have also been told that it is the compressor that is doing it (the parts store said this was not the case... I think they just don't wanna warranty anything).
View 12 RepliesI have a 2006 F350, it keeps blowing fuses for the brake/turn signals. The puzzling​ part is it only does this when the truck is running.
View 2 Replies92 PA Base
It's that time again for vehicle inspection and my horn has been blowing fuses. I had it diagnosed by the dealership and they stated the horn pad inside the steering wheel is bad. They also stated the horn pads for my model of PA has been discontinued and that I should install an aftermarket horn. If I don't have this horn installed I'll fail the inspection.
So I just got a new Passport Radar for the car and noticed that im getting no power...Checked the fuse box and and fuse was blown...replace it and the fuse blows automatically.
View 6 RepliesSo I installed my XS HID low beams and fogs a couple of weeks ago, and everything was working fantastic. However, when I installed my LED turns and load resistors, whenever I turn on the low beams, the inline 30A fuse pops. The HID fogs continue to work. The switchback turns work great, and I have never got any hyperflashing.
I have checked all the connections, and they all seem strong. I have used the diagram I found on here from exLEDshop outlining all the connections on the pin array for the headlight harness. I am tapped into the blue wire on the driver's side for + turn and the black for -, and the black w/orange stripe on the passenger side for + turn, and the black for -. If I accidentally have the load resistors connected to the wrong wire, would the turns hyperflash?
I know that it would be better if I used grounding points on the chassis for the load resistors, but could this be causing the short? Or could bad ballasts that are the culprit? The only reason I'm leaning away from it being the ballasts is because they worked fine until I put the load resistors in.
I just got my led switch back lights in for my 08 camry. But I have run into a problem I have installed all four led signal lights (switch backs in the front and led ambers in the back) and the led flash relay for my car. What is happening is that the led will turn on for a couple of seconds and then the fuse for the signal lights burns out both the one under the dash and the one under the hood.
View 3 RepliesI've blown my turn signal fuse for 3 times until the relay burned out. Now I have had cleaned turn signal switch (with CC) from all of the old stuff in there and replaced hazard switch. But it happens again! After 5 minutes driving, both fuses (7,5 AMP for turn signals and 15 AMP hazard) blown out. I'm afraid there are some shorts in wirings.
I'm looking for the wiring diagrams or any other users experience in this matter... Where shall I start from?
There was a water leakage behind and under drivers seat. I removed trims etc. to lift the carpet to take the Comfort Module for checking as there were some weird thing in overall car electric systems (central locking, saloon lightnings, electric windows and dropping gauges on instrument panel. I found a small amount of water in container, where the module is placed, but on the electric parts weren't any water marks... Also it's impossible to connect to the CCM via vag-com.
Several weeks ago, my wife drove our Outback for 10 minutes, turned the car off, then turned it back on after 10 minutes. After 15 minutes of its being on the second time and the car being in a car line, the red temperature indicator blinked, then went solid. She pulled over to let it cool, then put coolant in the overflow reservoir when she got home. The reservoir was nearly empty. The very next day, the exact same thing happened, in the exact same sequence - 10 minutes on, 10 off, 15 minutes on in a car line, then indicator came on again.
I took it to a mechanic who could not reproduce the issue after letting it run for four hours. He replaced the fuses and told us to bring him the car when the problem recurred. Reservoir tank is full, no blockage in line from radiator to overflow tank.
The next day, for a third time, the car overheated in the pickup line. We brought it in the following day. The mechanic finally was able to reproduce the issue. He said that both fans (a subi outback has two) needed to be replaced, as they were drawing a tremendous amount. He advised that I take it to subaru to find out if there was anything they could do re: warranty.
I took it to subaru, who said that the fans are not now under warranty (we have 65k on the car). I decided to have them replace the fans anyway, so I asked them for a diagnosis. However, after two days in the shop, they were unable to reproduce the problem. They ran the car in idle, they tried to recreate the stop-and-go/standstill environment of a carline, but no luck. They said that the fans were drawing the expected amount and that they would need recreate in order to diagnose.
I have two questions:
1) Should I replace the fans myself? I can either take the car back to the first mechanic and have him replace the fans or I can do it myself. I can do basic jobs like oil changes, replacing serpentine belts, but I'm not sure what nuances are involved with replacing anything electrical.
2) Most importantly: What would cause both fans in a relatively young subi to spike their amperage draw intermittently? I guess it's possible that i just got two bad fans, but that doesn't seem to be a common problem with this model. So, I want to make sure that this issue is not indicative of some other underlying problem.