Ford - Explorer :: 2003 Sport Trac Fail To Start After Shutting It Down For A Short Period
Jul 15, 2014
My Sport Trac will periodically fail to start after shutting it down for a short period. It doesn't stall, but won't start after parking for just a few minutes to a couple of hours. I've had it towed twice, but it always starts after it gets to the shop and the mechanic can't find a problem or a code. It has happened 4 times and seems to start again after it sits for 3 hours or more, definitely by the next morning. A fuel system cleaner had been tried and the fuel filter has been replaced, but the problem continues.
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I have a 2003 Sport Trac that basically died last night on me. I drove it 30 miles Shut it off for about 10 minutes came back out and it cranks but it will not start. I sprayed some starting fluid into the throttle body and it ran for a second, so it's definitely a fuel issue. I am just not sure if it could be a fuel pump, Relay, or a dirty Fuel filter (I have not changed in the 87K I had the truck). Because it ran fine before it died..
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We have a 03 Ford Explorer Sport Trac that we just changed the ICV on because after it would warm up it dies at intersections. Now it shutter quite a bit a dies in reverse. We took it to a transmission place and no codes come up.
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I was driving my sport trac when it suddenly died on me. We are leaning toward the fuel pump. But is there any other causes for fuel to not get to the engine? We changed the fuel filter out already...
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2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac XLT v6 4.0 with 89k.
Lately my truck has been acting funny. About 1 out of 3 times I start my truck and put it n reverse it starts doing what I would describe as a hesitation. If I sit for about 10 seconds, it will stop. But if I move while it is happening it will move and jerk as if i was slightly hitting the brake constantly (no the parking break is not on). It will continue when I throw it in drive until I give it some gas. From then on as far as I can tell there are no problems. It doesn't do it every time. I went in for an oil change and they told me I will need to replace the belt soon, so could that be the culprit?
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OK I replaced AC compressor a few months ago and everything was fine... Now today I put AC on and the AC is cold but only comes out defrost....
I do not hear anything trying to switch to front vents... Is there a fuse that could be blown....
Parts store guy said bad actuator.... have to pull dash..... but then said he heard of a way to sneak in the side of the center console....
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All other lights work including Driving lights and High Beams.
I have checked fuses.
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I got a 02 b5.5. Its a 1.8t once it runs for a while and i have to shut it off to get gas or stop for a quick period of time it wont start and smells like fuel.once it starts it floods. It keeps coming up with a coolant temp sensor code and a o2 code and i have replaced the coolant sensor with a green one and the thermostat. And I also replaced the n80 valve.i also did a tune up and did the valve cover gasket. i have two doing the same exact thing one with a v6 and the other is a 4cyl...
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I notice a bad smell when I start my 2011 ES350for a short period of time. After that it is fine. Auto has just over 10,000 miles on it. E mail from dealer tells me filter needs changing. Somehow I believe there is more to it.
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been off and on having problems with my r/f speaker cutting out, not completely-i get a little noise from it. ive replaced the speakers in the front but found since i have the audiophile system, they sounded terrible. i removed what i believe to be a crossover from the factory speaker & reinstalled the crossover with the factory connector & tweeter, but spliced in the new 6x8s. this made it sound wonderful again. now i still seem to be having the problem and found if i unplug the radio and plug it back in it will work good again for a short period of time.
my question is can i use any ford radio that looks like it is the same, I like the ones with the chrome on thje. Or should i just get a kenwood or something. i dont want to spend a ton of money. and will an aftermarket head unit decrease sound quality since i have the audiophile as the speakers originally did without the crossover.
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I have a 2016 F350 Powerstroke fully deleted for about 3k miles. Truck was running perfectly then out of no where started running like crap and had very minimal power 500-2000rpm. Once 2000rpm hit, turbo spooled up and made power. Very odd. I cleaned out back pressure sensor, map sensor and hoses. No fix. Did a hard reset and the truck ran fine again and had low end power.
Ever since then I started hearing very odd fluttering sounds coming from what I think is the turbo. Also noticed my OEM boost gauge doesn't work. No reading from it.
The flutter only comes on when the truck goes under load for a short period of time and then I let off the throttle. It seems to running fine other then that and maybe a little bit more sluggish then normal. Any things I can check before I put it back to stock and bring it to the dealer?
MODS:
NO Limit EGR Delete
Flo-Pro 5" Straight
S&B Intake
SCT Livewire w/ custom tunes
Also, I had a lot of problems with my live wire software. I have to send it back to SCT to get warranty problems fixed which I'll be sending out Monday. They think my tuner is stuck in demo mode for some off reason.
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I recently have been experiencing some trouble when initially starting my truck. It usually doesn't turn over on the first go, wait five seconds, cranks just fine. However when I start it the engine revs up and and down on its own sometimes, and when I put it into drive and reverse especially, I get a pretty good shake like the it's reving up and down. I pop it into neutral and give it a second and usually seems fine. My check engine light pops from time to time and I believe its some the solenoids triggering it. What is going on? I am not very truck savy at the moment.
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I have a 2002 Buick Rendezvous and after driving the vehicle and turning it off for a short period of time it will not start. It will continue to "crank" or "turn over" but cannot get it to start unless I wait for around 20-30 minutes at which time it will start like it never had a problem. Also now when I am driving and I hit the brakes to come to a stop the Anti-Lock Brake Light comes on and the AWD Disable Light comes on? I just had the brakes done and thought it could possibly be a problem with the way they were done and took it back to have the brakes checked out again but found nothing wrong....
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Was having some issues with my 2000 Passat not starting after only being turned off for a short period of time (long periods of time no problem). My check engine light came was on along with the Emissions Workshop message in the display. I took it in and had it serviced at my local repair shop. They said it was something with a temperature gauge or something to that effect that was causing it to lose a temp reading. Anyways, after the repair the car starts fine, runs great, the check engine light went off and so did the Emissions Workshop display. Then a few days later it came back on...still not having any issues with it starting but what's going on??
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6.2L F250 truck is just shy of 60k runs good however on cold startup there's now a pretty loud ticking noise for a short period (30 seconds) until it warms up then it slowly goes away. Once its warmed up there isn't much of anything.
Did these have exhaust manifold gasket problems like the 5.4? Hoping that's it if not, any other common problems that would make that ticking noise and then go away quickly once the engine is warmed up.
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I have an Explorer Sport 2001 that will not crank nor start. I have replaced the following:
Crankshaft, camshaft sensors
Ignition coil
Ignition switch, neutral safety switch
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Starter
The battery is less than 6 months old .. Still, the car will not crank, will not start. I have spark, voltage and fuel.
The PCM does NOT communicate with the scanner. I purchased a used PCM off of eBay. This one does communicate with a scanner and gives the following DTC codes:
P1120-- Throttle Position Sensor out of range
B1601-- Unprogrammed Pats Key
Since the car is in the Caribbean I can't tow it to a dealer.
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Recently purchased my first Prius, it's the v wagon.
When accelerating from a stopped position in eco mode there's a relatively severe drivetrain shutter/vibration for a a short period of time until I back off the throttle, almost feels like a clutch slipping with added vibration.
It's probably a normal noise produced by this style transmission, just looking to verify if this is true so I can stop worrying about it.
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I bought my wife a 2007 Ford sport trac about six months ago. It has always made a very peculiar sound. It only makes this noise when you are driving about 50 mph uphill. The sound is rhythmic and coming from the rear of the truck. I would compare it to driving over sets of rumble strips but quieter. The vehicle is 4x4 and my theory is that it has something to do with this.
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I have a 5.0 Explorer 1998 and it has a problem for which I cannot find a definite solution, everyone says a different thing. The problem is that when the weather is hot, sometimes the engine does a strange thing. You ride the car for some time, especially if you do it on a high speed so the engine is really hot (but no overheating symptoms) - and then you kill the engine and leave it for a few minutes - to walk into a store, let's say.
After that you attempt to start the engine... sometimes it starts, but there were several times when it refused to catch, it cranks, at first tries to start, but stalls... then it just cranks without even attempting to start. And I had one occasion when it stopped working right in the middle of the road while crawling in traffic, but it was really HOT outside. Luckily, all other cases were in our town, so I could at least walk home. So, the problem seems to overheating of something, as in normal or cold weather it never happens. And every time, after the car is left to stay in place for some time, an hour or more, cannot say exactly - it starts perfectly!
I am really tried of this and want to eliminate the reason. But I am hearing so many different opinions about this problem. I thought that it could be the overheating of the fuel pump. But then it would stop working while moving, not after you shut the engine off and the pump cannot be still working and overheating. The only place where the heat can build up when you stop and turn the engine off is under the hood, as the fan stops, the coolant pump stops and the air isn't blowing as the car isn't moving. But the pump is in the tank! And I never ride on empty fuel tank, I always keep some level, lately I tried to keep it even higher, but yesterday it refused to start when the tank was almost half-full. Also, if it was just dying - a dying fuel pump gives certain symptoms like slow acceleration, engine shaking and trying to stall when you press the pedal, sudden stalling, uneven idling etc. In this case, nothing like this. The car's behavior is absolutely normal, acceleration good, normal idle. It happens ONLY under certain conditions, involving heat.
Other people say that it can be due to low pressure in the fuel ramp and the gasoline is starting to boil at some moment, when the temperature under the hood rises to a certain point. As a reason they name the pump (but as I said, I doubt it) or the fuel pressure control valve - don't know its exact name, it's a valve which maintains a certain pressure in the fuel ramp and releases excessive pressure by returning some fuel to the tank. However, when this valve gets stuck and doesn't maintain pressure, it mostly influences the cold start, as the fuel pressure drops and you have to crank for a long time while the pump is building the pressure again. But my car has never had any problems with the cold start, it's always instantaneous. Also, when this problem occurs and you start the engine after it cools down, it catches instantly which means THERE IS pressure in the ramp. So I don't believe in low pressure, gasoline boiling and resulting vapor jams.
And finally, I read that it may be caused by defective/dying engine temperature or crankshaft position sensors. As for the temp sensor, I will replace it tomorrow anyway. I am also thinking of having a look at the crankshaft sensor, where it's located on 5.0 V8?
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I recently parked my f-350 dually on a 15degree slope during a rainy period about 2 months ago. I went in recently to start it and it would'nt start. I replaced the two batteries in my attempt. I turn on the key in the on position, wait for the "Wait for Start" light to turn off, then it cranks really fast , then slows down and it won't start. Tried to take off the fuel filter but is there a special tool to take the cover off. It started real fine prior to this. Also I put in 5 gallons of diesel .
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1997 Explorer V8 AWD Codes I have
C1185 ABS power relay output circuit fail
C1102 Acceleration Switch Malfunction, may not apply to AWD
B1318 low battery prob had that issue sometime in its life, currently bat is 12.4 and 14.3 running.
And ABS light is on.
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