Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - Radio Does Not Come On
Aug 4, 2014
I went through all the fuses that I could test with a test light and everything works. I just cant figure out why the radio doesn't come on. doesn't show the time or anything.
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When car is started, volume on radio is very low. As the car warms up, the radio volume increases. What do I check or fix?
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I have a 02 explorer 4.0 4x4 i recently bought and the radio doesn't work the power comes on and picks up stations and the cd player seems to work but no sound at all previous owner says it happened after alternator was changed.
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Am I the only one experiencing radio display blackout? I have a 2006 Explorer Sport Trak. the radio display goes blank and stays blank. Do I have to replace the whole unit or is there a fix?
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I have a Sport trac and its killing me. The windows, radio, wipers and 4x4 does not work. I have checked all of the fuses and even replaced the GEM module and they are still not working.
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My radio worked fine. No issues. Next day got in car and radio was dead. No lights, no sound. I bought a new radio XO Vision brand.
I bought a Schoshe wiring kit and wired it up according the instructions. I have power. There are lights and everything but no sound. No static. Nothing.
There are posts about the amp...not sure if i have one. Mine is the 97 explorer that had the 6cd changer in the console.
There is a blue wire left over and the orange one. (Orange is for illumination so I assume I don't need this.)
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So my son cut the factory speaker wires on his Explorer. I bought a new radio for him prior to the "CUT" and the new radio comes with a simple wire harness (2 green, 2 purple, 2 white, 2 grey). The picture shows the factory wires attached to factory module. The "New" speaker wire harness identifies which wire is for what speaker but I need to know what factory speaker wire would attached to the new wires. Based on the picture, how to identify the speaker wires and determine which wire goes to which speaker?
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Yea, so early in the morning I turn on the radio am, and touch the heater/cool and the static is really bad. It's bad before I touch the heater on but is worse during.
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Got myself a brand new old truck. No radio and all the wires had been cut. I just printed of a wiring diagram from web and went to work I am now on my second one and it has the same colors for two different speakers!! The first one was completely wrong. Looking for a good wiring diagram for a 97 f250 super cab.
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Plain and simple. 97 F150 with factory radio and cd changer. Just wanna know what wire to cut on the factory harness to make the radio not dim when I turn on the headlights. Or is there more to it than that?
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All my power windows aren't working along with my after market radio. All the fuses are good
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My '99 F150 has an issue. The green digital display had one portion of a station number and one indicator section on the volume display that will intermittently cut out and reappear for no apparent reason. What is happening?
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I picked up a nicely used 98 XL in Alabama yesterday, with 106k original miles. The dealer threw in FREE oil changes for life with my purchase, but I don't see me driving 2.5 hours to Alabama for that.
It's got crank up windows, manual locks, standard tranny, 4.2 V6, and the regular seats. Yep, pretty basic. It came with a matching fiberglass shell also. The only things wrong are the radio volume doesn't adjust, and the rear window frame appears cracked. These are minor in my opinion.
What drew me to this truck was the beautiful condition it's in and my love of this body style. What would be added to improve creature comforts, performance, etc.
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Looking to upgrade it with an AUX input (from an iPhone), and with an integrated Sirius radio.
I prefer the look of OEM. Can I simply replace the radio with a newer OEM unit that has these features, or is it more complicated than that? If I can replace it with an OEM unit, which one?
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I have no odometer display and the radio is also not lighting up. I don't see any fuses blown. Is there a relay or something I should be looking for and being I don't have an owners manual, which fuse is the one that covers this. Truck is a 2000 F150 ....
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The short story is I sent my chip to dp tuner last week while on vacation to have Jody update my programs. The ecu was out of the truck for about a week. I reinstalled everything today. Everything works fine except my radio won't turn on. Clock only comes on when headlights are on. Checked all the fuses all good except #32 which is a 5a. Manual says it's the radio start fuse. Fuse is fine not blown out, new one installed still no power on either side of the fuse. Where should I look now. 2002 super duty
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My dumb self cut my factory harness to install a radio and after hooking up said radio (which I know how to do) it popped a fuse. So to avoid any trouble I need to put another harness in but again with my stupidity I cut the wires too short. finding the correct harness
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My family has a 2003 Ford Explorer that overheats a lot. We have taken it to 16-17 garages and they cannot find out what's wrong with it. It overheats when its hot outside, or when we are going up hills. The temperature gauge does not gradually go from C to H It goes straight to H. Then we have to pull over and wait for it cool down, when it finally goes back to C we start to drive again. One time this happened 11 times in 1 day! We put an average of 45,000 miles on this car every year. We need a solution to this problem.
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I have 2003 Explorer just fixed the engine and all other repairs to get it to pass inspection. However the ABS light is on. I had to replace all rotors and therefor had to press caliper plungers in. Could this have caused the ABS light to come on? I replaced one wheel hub so there is a new abs line on that wheel. Will bleeding the brake lines resolve this? Should I spray the abs connectors with electronics cleaner? Do something else entirely?
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The vehicle was parked in driveway for a week not previously involved in any collision or rough terrain
When do try to start is only runs for 1 second
The inertia switch was not set
There is 50+- lbs pressure in the fuel line when the switch is first turned on
Hitting the inertia switch will cause the switch to set
The switch will reset
Testing for continuity when the switch is normal there is no "juice" from pole 1 to pole 2 and 3
After activating e.g. hitting the switch there is "juice" for pole 1 to pole 2
Am I wrong in thinking it is the inertia switch....
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I have replaced the Idle Air Control valve 4 times. Each time the high idle on stop or deceleration goes away for a few months. I have a 2003 Explorer XLT 4wd 4.6l V8. What could be the root cause.
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