Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - Poor Idle At Cold Startup
Nov 23, 2011
I have a 03 explorer 4.6 at cold start-up it wants to stall and it idles very bad just for maybe 5-6 seconds and then the idle picks up and it's fine. This only happens on cold start-ups, if I drive it and restart it's fine.
This started when I replaced the two front (up-stream) O2 sensors, I didn't need to change them just have 150,000+ mile and was trying to do something to get better mpg.
Do We should disconnect and reconnect the battery after replacing the O2 sensors on an 03? Reset the computer?
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What causes elevated engine idle when cold or initial startup? Asking another way, what would cause it not to have the elevated idle on start up?
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I've been chasing a problem all summer. Began with crappy batteries dying intermittently. I replaced the batteries, FICM, finally cleaned EGR valve and replaced ICP with pigtail. The problem is still persistent. Basically a rough idle, puff of whit smoke on cold startup, rough running at around 1500 rpms( driving at 50 mph). The ICP was soaked in oil so i was confident replacing it would finally cure my issues. It actually got worse with the rough idle turning to a surging idle and quite rumbly at 50 mph speed. I guess its time to look to injector issues but i thought id check if after replacing icp/ cleaning egr. I also have a slight exhaust leak at turbo out that i can see. The clamp is not seated properly. This after turbo connection to exhaust.
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97 4.6.. So it would appear that I have the wild goose chase of codes. The major symptoms are rough idle and very poor performance. I started off by cleaning the egr valve and ports. Then I checked the egr valve itself and watched the valve open and close under a vacuum. I was suspecting the DPFE sensor but I wanted to trying something else first. I was under the Impression that if at idle you apply a vacuum to the egr valve it would cause the engine to "stumble and stall". I did this and there was no change in the way the engine was running. So now I'm lost as to where to go from here.
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My7.3 is idling rough till I pull the fuse for the fuel pump them it will smoothen out I ran a by pass switch to us my truck but the fuel mileage is bad why
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2000 Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC.
It starts fine under all conditions but when cold, like in the 30s or lower, it doesn't want to remain idling, yet no CEL comes on. New fuel pump. The throttle body is cleaned, as are the injectors. It runs super once it gets past the cold startup issue.
I was thinking a sensor is getting weak but not weak enough to set the CEL.
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If my car's been sitting - say monday morning after sitting all weekend in the garage- it runs rough for a little while. Sometimes only for a few seconds, sometimes for a little while after the idle drops. The colder the car is, the longer and worse the condition. It feels like a cylinder isn't firing.
After a particularly cold and wet spell (I had the car outside) it ran so badly it threw a code for one of the cam position sensors and #4 misfire. I replaced both of the sensors. That worked a little.
Since I was due for 80k service and saw a misfire when damp, I replaced the ignition coils along with the spark plugs. That worked a little more. But, it still does it. What else could it be if not ignition? Sticky valve? something else?
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My truck is a 1995 Explorer 4.0 150,000 miles, 5 speed.
Problem - Rough idle : when cold it's worse and will stall and choke a little. When warmed up it just has a rough idle but will not stall and stays at a pretty constant RPM. It's very tolerable when warmed up but still not right. It drives fine once off idle. No black smoke that I can see. Power may be just a little off but I would not bet on it. MPG seems about normal but haven't been on a long enough trip since problem started to tell for sure. Also longer than normal cranking on occasion.
Diagnostics so far : Fuel pressure is at 32 PSI, vacuum off regulator it's at 40 PSI. Not sure about key on only as I don't trust the autozone loaner gauges. You have to fiddle with it each time before it will read. Leak down after 30 minutes was about 4 PSI
No Check engine light ever. KOEO test shows no hard or on demand codes, I get the 111 pass. From CM I get 336 and 45.
336 is EGR related and my looks pretty rusty. I put a vacuum pump on it while running and the EGR held vacuum but had no effect at all on idle, I was expecting it to get worse as I opened the EGR so it may be stuck.
Searched high and low for vacuum leaks by ear, visual and with starting fluid all turned up nothing.
Actions so far : Replaced plugs, wires, IAC, and fuel filter. Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body plus ran lucas fuel injector cleaner through it.
Next steps : I've got the EGR but it's so rusty I am sure I'll break the tube it bolts to plus I don't know it that alone will cause the rough idle. Will the DPFE sensor and/or EVR create a rough idle yet not turn on the CEL?
Thought about changing the fuel pump and/or regulator but the numbers are not terrible. Agree?
Thought about changing the intake gaskets but don't see any leaks.
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My 06 Sonata runs very rough at start up when the car is cold. It appears that it is missing on several cylinders. This last for about 15 seconds and then the car runs fine. What could be causing this problem? No check engine light.
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1992 camry 4 cylinder ... Since having my engine replaced with a used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
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Normally when cold the car would start and rest at about 1,200 maybe 1,300 for a couple minutes then go down to its normal idle point, recently when starting it when cold, it sounds and looks like it wants to do that but just goes straight to its normal idle point, its only started this a couple does ago and has me a little worried now. could there be anything wrong ?
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I've got a 2003 ford f-150 with a 4.6l 150000 miles. when it is started the rpms are at 2000 for about a min. and a half then it drops to normal when its started cold. when started at operating temp. The rpms are at 2000 for about 30 to 45 sec then drop to normal. The iac, upper and lower intake gaskets, intake run controller valve, dfbe, low intake and shield, coolant temp. sensor, intake air temp. sensor, egr, egr regulator valve, maf, ecm have all been swapped out no vacuum leaks all line in good condition tps voltage reading of 0.84v...
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I have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
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I've got a 2003 f150 with the 5.4 and 128,000 miles with an engine tick. Its not an exhaust leak I know that for sure. It has came up in the last 20,000 miles. I've used motorcraft 5 20 w/ motorcraft filter. I've tried a kreen engine treatment with no change. Heres the description/syptoms:
-Slight clatter for 2-3 seconds upon cold startup (happens very rarely)
-top end ticking that is loudest and most noticable when warm (quieter when motors cold)
-not timing chains/tensioners etc because the noise is coming from the top end and most noticeable on the passenger side.
-at idle the tick is present-when you rev at idle, the noise goes away.
-Driving (or having the engine under any load for that matter) the noise gets louder.
-Anytime I accelerate, tow/haul, go up an incline the noise gets worse
-Sounds like a "whirring" sound from within the dash.
With all that said I am thinking the lash adjusters are getting noisy. I had a certified gm tech that has 40 yrs mechanic experience under his belt and builds prostreet muscle cars on the side look at it. He listened to it to it and that was his diagnosis as well as its not that bad so just live with it. The noise at idle doesn't bother me, its when im driving with the windows down. The noise drives me crazy and is a little annoying to me.
Heres a link to a video of the sound and keep in mind it is much louder now : Triton engine noise/tick - YouTube
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2003 F150 5.4L Tow Package 140k miles... Had coils, all plugs/wires replaced two years ago due to vibe climbing hills. Now at startup in the morning for a minute or two during idle, the engine vibrates severely then subsides and runs fine rest of day. Doesn't do this every morning. Truck lives in FL. The issue is either temperature related or moisture related. Ford service has the truck presently and attempting to diagnose from an overnight stay. They already 'fixed' the problem last week by replacing #1 plug/wire and resetting the power control module (pcm) but two days later the problem came back. Tech said today that the plugs currently installed are Bosch (any issue with these plugs?)
2003 F150 5.4L 140k miles
2011 Expy 5.4L 44k miles
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I have a 2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC that I'm having a persistent problem of cylinder 3 misfire. I've changed plugs with Motorcraft plugs set to the proper gap, put on new wires and have checked the resistance across the ignition module, both primary and secondary without change. I doubt that the problem could be the ignition control module as only cylinder 3 is affected. I have Auto Enginuity that I use to read the codes, attempt a repair and then clear the codes only to have P0303 appear again. Obviously the engine stumbles and has poor acceleration.
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Bought a used 2003 Explorer 4X4 that runs like crap.... All I know is it has new upper and lower radiator hoses, new battery, new brakes, 2 new tires and new belts... suspension seems great and body is nice too. It obviously needed a new radiator and complete exhaust, so I did those. Now it is running better ( I can actually get the RPMs over 1500) but still running rough and will stall if I let off the gas. It will surge and dip in RPMs. Very suspicious of vacuum leak.
Unplugged the MAFS and it roared upon start but within a minute started the sputtering etc. Currently pulled the IAC and check continuity between pins and it was 10 ohms so that passed but there is no continuity between either pin and the case. So this seems to indicate I need to replace the IAC which I will do tomorrow. I would love to find a diagram that displays the vacuum system so I can make a thorough check of it. Also seems to have an oil leak on drivers side valve cover gasket.
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I just recently got my truck back, My father and I switched vehicles due to need and distance's being driven. 2005 F350 6.0, 164,000 miles
I couldn't wait to drive it again, I spent hours detailing and cleaning. Well I go to start and noticed it struggled to start, and didnt seem to be idling right. I looked under the hood and it was leaking fuel from the Regulator. I left it parked and never drove it since he last did. I read around on these forums and I bought the blue spring upgrade kit.
Now I notice it shakes at idle a lot more than it used to, pretty bad at times. Then upon driving it shakes even worse upon acceleration attempts, and has very poor throttle response. I have to put it nearly to the floor and even then the acceleration is nothing like it used to be. Most of my trip was highway at 60mph, and anytime it would start climbing a hill it would shake pretty bad with the acceleration. When i let off the gas to slow down before braking it stopped the shaking.
So I read around on here and I went back and used the factory bowl and valve for the regulator, still had the issue. Next I went back and replaced the blue spring with the original, still have the issue.
I just checked the FICM and it is reading between 48-49 during key on, cycle, and cranking.
Batteries are great
Alternator only reads 13.6 at 2k rpm idle, but have not had charging issues.
My father says he never noticed anything wrong with it other than it occasionally missing out. But I don't see how changing the fuel pressure regulator would have caused this. Especially since I tried every combination of oem and aftermarket parts, ensuring that all the connections and parts were installed correctly.
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2003 Limited with 4.6, 89K miles. Just started doing this last night. Checked codes, had the DPFE one pop up. Replaced that, no luck. Cleaned the IAC, MAF, throttle body, EGR, PCV, no luck. Used carb cleaner and sprayed around intake & vacuum hoses, no luck there. Checked vacuum, steady 20in even when it lopes. Battery unhooked for 15 minutes. It hovers around 300-400rpm's, sometimes will stall but drives fine. Tested the IAC and it is functioning normally. Nothing above has worked.
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2001 Ranger 4-cylinder 2.5L engine, 180K miles. I have been getting PO301 for months now, on and off so it's probably not related to this one.
It started idling awfully a week ago but does not die. Some vacuum problem. I heard the PCV valve elbow is the likely problem but where it is located? A pic or a diagram would be really useful, I did a search but keep getting 4L engine and other makes/years.
It's currently throwing P0171 code. A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty
Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor
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2003 Ford Explorer 4.6 liter AWD. Having some kind of VERY STUBBORN idle / emission problem. When it started it was an intermittent rough idle, mostly going too low or making a periodic "drumming" sound that could be felt and heard at the air cleaner box. CHeck engine codes were PO 442 evap system leak. I first cleaned and inspected throttle body, mass air flow sensor and idle air control valve. I inspected hoses for leaks, including spraying cleaner to see if I could detect idle changes / leaks. I then replaced Idle Air Control Valve. Did not seem to cure problem . SO took it into Ford Dealership and they smoke tested and said needed Vapor Management Valve and Vent Solenoid. I replaced VMV myself. Idle no longer "rattled" but when driving and braking the idle would drop down very low and sometimes not "kick up" and would die. I then took it back to dealership to have them replace the vent solenoid and reprogram the PCM. Still doing it. They said I might have a defective (new) Idle air control and to replace it- otherwise they dont have a clue.
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