Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - Misfire On Cylinder 8 / Running Rough At Idle And Under Load
Jun 4, 2012
126000kms on 03 explorer 4.6 truck started. Running rough at idle and under load.... Code came up for cyl 8 injector. Replaced injector... problem still there. Switched cop and plug with another cyl and plug.... same code and cycl 8 is definitely not working. Would a generic problem always affect i cylinder. I even checked wire clip on for injector... it appears ok. There is power to injector wire clip.
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My 1996 S10 2.2 liter pickup has been having some 'issues'. Truck has been kind to me over the years, but now is running a bit rough. It has an irreguler idle and continues to run this way through all speeds. The blinking code reads "cylinder 1 misfire". I did all the basics. I changed the plugs and wires, ignition coils and fuel filter. Here is where is gets tricky, after changing the fuel filter, it ran great again. Then it started to run rough again later that day. I thought I somehow clogged up the new filter, so I removed the new one for inspection. Realizing there was nothing wrong with it, I reinstalled. Truck ran great again. Went out to drive it to work a couple hours later and it started fine, then after about 10 seconds of running, it went back to the rough idle.
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I have a 2003 ranger and have had ongoing problems with misfire cylinder six and have had three different mechanics diagnose the problem as a bad ground. I have replaced all plugs, wires, coil pack, injectors and am constantly pulling the plug on cylinder six, cleaning and often replacing, I also disconnect the battery so it resets the check engine light and it runs fine for about 100 miles and starts running rough again and on goes the check engine light. I have 134000 miles and have maintained it since new.....
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2000 5.4l lariat. My cylinder 1 for 2 years has been poping p0301code and has a rough idle at start for about 30 seconds. It also has a little white smoke for that 30seconds. new cop, new spark plug, new spark plug pig tail, swapped injectors to different cylinders multiple times to change code no luck. Compression dry and wet are at 200 and all cylinders are within10%. I had a dorman intake manifold installed 4 years ago and the code came a few years after. Im thinking intake manifold gasket is bad between cylinder 1 and the heater bypass tube allowing coolant to slowly leak down into the cylinder causing my rough start. I looked through the injector hole but could not tell. With all the info I have given is there any other places or things that it could be before I do a gasket replacement or is all my tests leading to the intake manifold gasket...
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Replaced the spark plugs and wires a couple months ago. Started skipping yesterday throwing the #4 misfire code so I replaced the coil pack, reset the check engine light but it's since came back on and has a rough idle and loss of power. By the way, it's a 97 F150 4.6L 4x4 with 200,000 miles.
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My friend has a 2003 Toyota Echo that is throwing a cylinder misfire code. Original code is P0302 and P0302PD. The car is idling rougher, kind of sounds like "put-put-put". Also, the car has no power at all. He lives on a hill and he can't even pull out of his driveway. Lastly, the smell of the exhaust is gassy.
We have changed out the spark plugs...no change. Next, we bought a new ignition coil for the number two cylinder...no change. So, maybe its the wiring. Put the new coil onto the number 3 cylinder and the number 3 coil onto the 2 cylinder. Low and behold, the misfire code changes to P0303 and P0303PD.
Thinking we might have gotten a dud of a coil, we bought another. Same thing...new coil on 2 code is P0302...new coil on 3, code is P0303. Could we just have gotten two bad coils? Oh, coils were a BWD brand coil and Duralast brand. Should we just go OEM from dealer? OR Denso from Advance Auto?
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2005 Ford F150 lariat 5.4
I had a misfire under a bit of a load (acceleration) and up hills. I changed spark plus with OEM Motor craft ones, truck ran super nice for a couple week.
Had the engine light flash, slow down and the RPM go up a tiny bit then back down and the light goes off
Now I'm back to miss fire different location, and a rough idle. I've swapped coil packs around and the miss fire stayed on cylinder 4.
Spark plug screwed or injector or ?????
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I just got a 4.6 4WD Explorer in for rough running. It had timing chain noise and some odd codes for primary coil H codes along with cylinder 8 misfire.
I replaced the coil to get rid of the "H" code and it was fine. Still misfires on 8, and I really don't care because it's coincidence that the timing could be affecting it or perhaps.... bent valves!
The vehicle starts and idles a bit rough. Can't go very fast, and of course I know I should run it as little as possible!
Here is the deal, how should I present this to the customer? Should I let him know that some valves could be bent after replacing the chain (and all associated parts) and that it could still be effed? Or will I be fine after replacing? Pretty much, where they had a tensioner failure/guide breakage and valves bent too?
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I have a 2002 F250 CCSB Lariat 4x4 with the Triton V10, I'm up to 232,000 miles so far and fairly happy with the old girl. Just this weekend, I noticed some hesitation when at idle and even more rough running when under slight load. The misfire/hesitation is worst when going up a slight hill, when the truck is accelerating at low RPMs.
I am getting zero trouble codes or freeze frame conditions on my scanner. What should be my order of diagnosis? Vacuum test at line from PCV to TB, COP test? EGR inspection? Plug inspection? Also, how do you test a coil if resistance is not a reliable method?
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My wife's car suddenly started running rough. 2005 Taurus, 6 cyl, 3L, OHV, 83K miles. CEL came on and code came back as "P305 - cylinder 5 misfire detected". As a side comment, her tachometer has been fluctuating big of late as well.
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2004 Ford F150 5.4 Triton 3V Vin5.....
How this started, Drove through a lot of water as our City was in a flood on my way home and and the truck started running rough and got worse over time, I can now barely get to 40 mph as it starts to ping and sputter with no power.. the truck has been parked and not driven while in the shape it's in.
The truck keeps giving me error code P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire detected, P0174 System too lean (Bank 2) and at times another error P0300 saying multiple cylinder misfires detected.
After clearing the codes, I got new codes stating Misfire on Cylinder 2, 3, 4, 6. System too rich (Bank 1) System too lean (Bank 2)
Cleared the codes again and I'm back to Cylinder 3 misfire and System too lean (Bank 2)
What I have done so far... All repairs with in a few days...
1. Changed all spark plugs.
2. Changed all Coil Packs.
3. Changed number 3 fuel Injector.
4. Changed the Oil and Filter. (no water in the oil)
5. Changed the MAP Sensor.
6. Changed Bank 2 O2 Sensor 1 and 2.
7. Loosen the Catalytic Converter on the drivers side to re-leave back pressure thinking the Cat was plugged, still loss of power. I also drilled a small hole in the exhaust at my lowest point to see if it had water in it and it does not.
Checked for vacuum leaks using starting fluid around the intake manifold, no change in idle.. I also checked to make sure the vacuum line was still connected on the back of the intake manifold, I have found nothing leaking.
I also had cleaned the throttle body and changed the throttle position sensor.
Repairs within the last 6 months or less...
8. Replace passenger side cat.
9. Replaced both Bank 1 OS Sensors
9. Replaced Timing chains, Gears, Guides, Guide Tensioners, Oil Pump and pickup tube, Water Pump.
Cam Phasers are fine.
And number 3 coil is getting spark I changed the Ignition Coil again thinking maybe another bad pack.
Still #3 misfire and System too lean (Bank 2).
I am at a loss and not sure what to try, except for a compression test on cylinder 3 but I honestly don't think it's compression or a burnt valve.
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So I did a cylinder contribution test and a buzz test today. It buzzed evenly on all cylinders. Then when I did the cylinder contribution test I got these codes,
P0269 cylinder 4 contribution balance
P0284 cylinder 8 contribution balance
It has been running a little rough lately but not smoking. Seems to be chattering more than it was too. I did the FRx, HPx, CVDs and banjo bolt mods about 500 miles ago and it was a lot quieter and ran better. Just recently started running rough and a little louder. Could these injectors be bad? I did new injector O-rings about 800 miles ago. I ran the test with the engine cold and with it warmed up and got the codes both times. It seems to have a little bit of throttle flutter when holding it about half throttle while driving.
As far as I know the injectors haven't been replaced and they have 186K miles on them.
2001 F-350 Lariat Dually Supercab 6-spd manual 7.3 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel 186,000 miles....
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I have a 2002 ford ranger xlt 3.0 i just rebuilt the entire motor about a month ago and was having a high idle problem for the longest time. turns out i had the iac on backwards. but now that it idles down around where its supposed to it has a rough idle has a little shake to it. starts up right away but when i drive down the road around 3000-3500 rpms its missing on cylinder #3 from what the code I am getting "multiple cylinder misfire, #3 cylinder misfire" I've replaced plugs and wires. camshaft pos sensor. I am getting 65 lbs of fuel pressure. spark on all cylinders. I am really at a dead end here. Also every time I take the plugs out to look at them they look brand new.
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So I have a 2001 ranger 2.3l . Runs very rough at idle.code says misfire in cyl.#1. I have changed plugs, wires, coil packs all motocraft. I did a compression test..
#1.170
#2 180
#3. 185
#4 . 180
Compression seems fine,but where do i go from here? Anything else i can check/replace to solve this?
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2000 4.2....Last year I had to replace the coil pack when it started running rough and had a code for a misfire on cylinder 3. It is doing the exact same thing now, same code, same cylinder. Is there something wrong that is causing this?
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I'm having an issue with a 2008 Passat 2.0T. Engine ran rough one day and check engine light came on! I get the VagCom out, scan the ECU and get misfire on cylinder #2 and #4. Car has 109 000km. Plugs were never changed so I order some new OE Bosch platinum iridium plugs. Go for test drive after having change the plugs and I still get misfire on both cylinder number 2 and 4.
I know coil on plug are prone to be weak on those engines so I go ahead and order 4 new coils which are pretty low cost which is good. Once install on the car I go again on a test drive. car ran really smooth and no check engine light came on. I said fine! I fixed the problem only to discover the day after that the CEL decide to come back on I scan again and this time only get misfire on cyl #2 with fault frequency of 39.
I suspect my injector to be bad but before I decide to remove the intake manifold and spend another 2-300$ in parts. Any way to test my injector with VagCom in order to see if that really is my problem. Also heard the PCV could be a problem but i hardly doubt it would throw a fauly code on just one cylinder.
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My 04 1.8t is running rough with the cel on. i scanned it and cyl 1is misfiring. tried changing plugs. seemed to work while idling but as soon as i accelerated it started running rough again.
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I recently bought a 00 Excursion v10 2wd everything looked right no major problems. I noticed it has a rough idle and i thought it could be the EGR i went under the hood and there's no EGR in sight. I plugged the OBD reader to see if it would give any codes since the there was no check engine light on and wanted wanted to make sure it worked, It showed a P0304 code its Cyl4 misfire i checked plugs/coils and i noticed there's a little insert inside Cyl4 plugs hole in the head that it has the plug screwed on. I decided to change all the plugs and the coils and i still have the rough idle and code i can hear a ticking noise around the engine in the passenger side.
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When I'm driving and get above 50-60 I will get the Check Engine Light. Check the codes It shows 6 ---300, 303, 306, 300, 303, 306. When I slow the car down it is running rough, almost like it has a miss.
I reset the computer while this is going on and the engine smooths out and it runs correctly until I keep my pedal down and then it kicks the exact same errors.
Here's strange part number one: Once I get down to about a gallon or two of gas in the car everything seems to run fine. I have plenty of power, no codes and the car runs fantastic!
Strange part number 2: Very occasionally When I get in the car in the morning to go to work, the car is a bit difficult to start. When it finally kicks over, it is immediately running rough. resetting the computer with the engine running does not seem to stop the rough running. If I turn off the engine and let the car set for a bit it will start and run fine, with the exception of the first problem mentioned in this thread. There is no code while it is running rough, but when the Light kicks on as per the first issue mentioned, I have an additional code -- 335. This car has been excellent up until the last few months when this issue developed.
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5.4 3v. my last few weeks have not made me a fan. Here are the details:
I bought a 2008 F150 XL 5.4 3v with a cam phaser knock. Have done other timing jobs in past with no trouble so I was not too afraid to tackle this one. famous last words...opened the motor (shout out to the passenger side valve cover and its designer here) and found semi damaged roller follower on driver side. Worn cam lobe on the corresponding lobe and a loose chain on passenger side. proceeded to :
Change all timing components: phasers, chains, tensioners crank sprocket, all applicable bolts and BOTH cams as well as all lash adjusters and roller followers. most looked fine in fact all really did with a bit of wear on a few roller followers but only one bad one. engine didn't look to bad pretty clean.
Double and triple checked my timing chains and it was spot on. dark link on spot on crank, two dark links on the L and R dead on. put it back together. oh yes, changed all plugs with motorcraft ones, didn't even break one. did not change vct solenoids because I falsely assumed I could change the later easily if needed. they looked ok. screens intact etc... silly me for not realizing how kind Ford was in 2007 and later to necessitate removal of valve cover. I was reading a previous one on the how tos and assumed later models would be the same since it was the same sensor...
Cranked truck ran great. I mean perfect. sounded perfect. ran like a scalded cat. till it got to hot idle then it started doing its thing. rattle shake till you revved it. ran fine just wouldn't hot idle fine especially in reverse or under slight load. replaced driver side vct since ford only had one and I started on the easy side ordered the other one waiting for it. seemed to improve dramatically meanwhile I am driving this truck to test it. I drove it to work 50 miles each way and it ran great.
After a few trips it popped the P0420 light, seemed to run ok, cleared it watched it wouldn't come back. O2 sensor did seem to imply a bad cat on bank 1 since it seemed sensor two was mimicking sensor one and not staying stead like the other bank. still ran fine,
So I decided to check back pressure on the cat. I pulled sensor one out of bank one (really a joyously tight squeeze in there) hooked up my gauge and got 0 back pressure. revved it and all nothing. hooked sensor back up pulled truck out of shop and it commenced to running like crap. I mean bad. running worse than before I got it. Popping P0012 code continuously, and tons of misfire codes associated with bank 1 ..cyl 3 etc.. I tried swapping coils, pulled coils and checked spark with a tester and firing away looks like tons of good spark.
Now the weird part is : looks like bank one is dead. I can unhook any coil pack and/or injector and it runs the same and sounds like it is missing. if I unhook one off of bank 2 it almost dies or does. so bank 2 seems to be running fine. it will start and run but sounds like it missing sets flashing check engine light and backfires and stalls like crazy. I even second guessed my pressure gauge and unhooked exhaust manifold from pipe and it sounds even prettier when it backfires out of there but no change. I pulled cam sensors and cleaned it again and even tried swapping them since they looked identical but no change so I put them back.
Now I can only surmise that I am out of time somehow? or I have a gremlin perhaps? I like working on cars (usually) but this one is getting old. how do I verify what is wrong. if it is timing related how do I verify that now definitively once my marks moved I really cant figure out how to tell if it is in time? Since it has all new parts and they all ran beautifully till now. could it possibly be the vct solenoid doing all this? I plan on changing it when it comes in but surely it cant cause this many problems.. I unhooked it no change, and it does it at a cold idle and any rpm. really runs worse at idle but bad at any rpm.
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I bought this from my brother in better than mint condition. Always maintained. Its generating a cyl #2 misfire code.
It starts and runs like new when cold, but when it warms up, it idles rough, and generates the code. after 1500 rpm it smooths right out and runs fine.
He had it to the dealer just before I bought it and they told him needed a new engine.
I am thinking bad injector, since what seems to be happening is, when cold it gets more fuel, or when u rev it gets more fuel, but at an idle and warm, it doesn't seem to be getting enough maybe. And I see from the maintenance records, a couple of other injectors have been replaced as well.
I think the dealer got tired of replacing injectors under warranty and tried to milk him for a new engine.
2002 ranger extended cab 2wd, 3 door, 232,000 kms 5 speed 3 liter V6, new glass and clutch..
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