Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - Knocking Engine Noise?
Nov 4, 2012
I dropped my car(2003 explorer XLS) for a brake pad work at an auto shop. but when I went to pick it up, the engine made big knocking noise when starting. the mechanic told me seems the engine having problem. he was shock too because he admitted the car was fine when I dropped it.
He didn't do anything except the brake work and top of some oil(I told him to check the coolant and oil level). I towed it to dealer and was told the engine is bad, I need a new engine. he didn't give exact diagnosis, said that will cost more than $900. he also said the mechanic seems didn't do anything wrong.
The car doesn't show any other symptom except the noise, what might be the problem? I want to try whatever I can before rebuild the engine.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I'm looking at a dirt cheap Explorer 4.0, has been sitting for 2 years. Runs nice, with a double "knock" noise but quieter than a rod knock. Idles smooth at 600 rpm, "knock" is consistent, but increases as engine increases speed. Has 2 year old oil, and 2 year old gas. Would a tune up support it, and revitalize it, or is the engine almost dead. Still drives, didn't push it to hard. Interior is 9/10, exterior is 10/10. I have him down to 600. 4x4 works, and feels good.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2001 F150 4x4 4.6L Auto trans. 96,000 miles... I purchased it in Jan with 93,000. About a month ago it started making and occasional knocking noise coming from the engine, this noise was heard at idle in park and in drive. when I revved the motor it would go away but as the idle settle back down you could hear it again. the noise would go away as I was driving and come back with no rhyme or reason, I put a stethoscope on the engine and it seemed loudest under the oil pan. The oil gauge is up between 5/8 to 3/4. Fast forward to now, When I start it I hear a scraping almost grinding noise that resonated thru the cab it has the same intermittent characteristics. I think I am going to remove the serp belt, remove the trans inspection cover next and see what happens. Oh I did put a scan too on it, no codes but did notice 1 long term 02 sensor trim was staying around -.618 if I remember.
View 11 Replies
When you turn the interior ac temperature from cool to warm there is a loud knocking noise coming from under the dash. I am new to working on explorers but it seem like its coming from the black box nearest the firewall above the transmission tunnel. When you turn it to cold the noise almost completely goes away. The noise gets even louder when you mess with the selector for "max ac" "head and feet" "feet" etc.
View 2 Replies
I have 02 Limited 4.6 with 128k and upon startup there's no noise (sometimes misfire, due to oil in plug wells, gonna change the intake mani and coils soon). Shortly after it warms up - 5 minutes or so there is a constant ticking at idle...I can't really tell if its there upon acceleration as I can't notice it with the window open when I'm driving, but as soon as I slow down and/or idle I hear it again.
If I let the car sit for a few hours, or while I'm at work, it starts up perfectly fine, no noise.
I tried the long screw driver trick - putting it to different parts of the engine and placing my ear over the handle, and didn't really notice anything different from any part of the engine. I had it up on my lift, and it almost sounded like it was coming from the rear - near the tranny, but what the hell would tick back there? and how do I diagnose that?
I dropped the oil pan when I first got it and there was a very little amount of black rubbery stuff - presuming its timing chain guide/tensioner related, but no chunks, not really any metallic shimmer in the oil, so I guess it could be that, I'm gonna pop the valve cover off and inspect - but like I said, didn't notice anything with the screwdriver trick....I'm at a loss
View 2 Replies
I recently started having a very loud knocking noise in my engine and I can't place it. Mostly due to my lack of car knowledge I can only trouble shoot so far. The following conditions are what I can really only go from:.
- when I'm in park or neutral the knocking happens in about 5 beats per second.
- while idling in gear it almost goes away.
- while driving it increases in frequency and intensity the higher the rpms, until it switches gears, then its dull until I get closer to topping out another gear.
- No real functionality of the car has changed.
- I tried doing a mild brake torque, in both drive and reverse, and the engine did not move.
- the knock is pretty hard to locate exactly but seems to come from the passenger side.
I'm hoping it's not to serious because I just filled the gas tank.
View 5 Replies
New to owing a ford pickup. I bought a 2002 Ford F-150 lariat 4x4 as a project truck. I've always wanted a truck to mess around with, but once I got the truck home I noticed it had a knocking sound. It didn't sound like it came from the top of the engine so I checked the muffler first and found it had a 3" slit in it. I replaced it but the sound remains. I heard it could be lifters? Is that something I should mess with or not?
View 8 Replies
My '03 Ranger started making a knocking noise last summer after 15 minutes of driving but only when the temp. outside is over 80 degrees or so. It stopped during the cold months but has resumed this summer. It is a low knocking sound and a) the vehicle must be moving, b) it has to have been moving for 15 minutes or so and c) it must be over 80 degrees outside. I can feel it under my feet and thru the steering wheel but mechanics say that they don't hear it and can't find it because they are getting into the vehicle after it has had a couple of minutes to cool down. Mechanics tell me that they have checked the universal joint and that it is fine. I need a brave mechanic to drive along side of me in another vehicle, going 45 miles per hour for 15 minutes and then they need to jump over into the driver's side and take over the wheel (like in the movies) so that maybe we can find what is making the noise. It makes this noise whether the vehicle is in 4wd or 2wd or the A/C is on or not.
View 8 Replies
Noise goes away (or maybe it quietens to the point that you can't hear it) when you raise the idle just slightly. No smoking, no hard to start, no rough idle, no indicators of anything wrong at city or highway speed, nothing else out of the ordinary to report.
275K miles
[URL] .....
View 14 Replies
My 2003 Ranger 2.3L When I purchased it in 2005 I never noticed this tapping noise until in 2007 when Tennessee forced 10% Ethanol added to fuel. That is when the noise started.
What this could be. I have since moved to Texas and found a station that sells Ethanol Free gas, but that does not remove the noise.
View 11 Replies
2001 F-150 4.2L automatic, 189k mikes. Gas pedal would do weird knocking/vibrating. It would do it at idle & under acceleration. Gas pedal would knock & sometimes slightly move or kick back at you. Felt like someone was lightly hitting it with a small hammer. Well there is not much to the gas pedal assembly; pedal, throttle cable & mounting bolts/plate. Looking under hood, a bracket from drivers side of motor was pushing back against firewall, which was pushing into gas pedal mounting bolts. I grabbed the bracket & it came off motor. Nothing else attached to bracket. Looks like it rusted off and was pinned between motor & firewall. Well, this fixed the gas pedal problems. But now i wonder what the bracket is & whats it suppose to hold??
View 3 Replies
I have had a noise in the front of the engine of my 2002 f150 4.6 for about 2 weeks. On my way home my oil light came on made a knocking noise and shut off. The engine would not start back starter would engage but not turn motor it was seized. i called a tow truck and had it towed home. The next day just out of curiosity I tried to start it. It fired up ran and built oil pressure. If the oil pump froze will that make it . Can the oil pump make the engine act seized up?
View 3 Replies
Recently, I was stopped in my 03 F-150 with 124,000 miles. All of the sudden one day, the engine started knocking. The knocking was coming from lower in the engine. After sitting for about two hours, I started it again. At first, no knocking, then intermittent knocking, then steady and after about 3 or 4 min, the knocking stops all together. Oil level has always been checked and it has never run low on oil. What on earth causes an intermittent knock?
View 6 Replies
I have an 04 F150 Lariat with the 5.4. I get alot of noise out of the top of the motor. I hear lots of stories of sludge issues, is that the problem or do I need to have the motor gone through? the knock is not horrible but when the motor is warm the noise is pretty apparent!
View 3 Replies
I have a 2007 F-150 4x4 5.4L. I recently had a problem with my engine. It had the knocking noise thats known for the 5.4. My issue is i replaced the engine (it had 275,000 miles and was a work truck before i bought it) As well as all the timing components including the hydraulic tensioners, new phasers, new guides, new solenoid, and a new camshaft positioning sensor and it still isnt fixed.
View 3 Replies
The knocking started very suddenly 2 days ago - but not after any unusual events, other work etc. Truck has 145 K, and otherwise starts & runs perfectly. Doesn't use oil.
I heard it from in the cab, windows closed. At first, thought it may be a rod bearing - but if so, not terribly loud. Didn't drive it any more after getting home. But starting it in the drive, the knocking was audible.
Then I discovered it * completely disappeared * several times, after shutting off engine, then restart a few seconds later. When that happens, absolutely no knocking at idle or reeving it up a bit. But it may return on the next 1 or 2 restarts, then disappear again.
Since the knocking * completely stopped * on some restarts, does that rule out a bad rod or main bearing?
I haven't seen oil gauge pressure fluctuation, whether it's knocking or not. The gauge is where it's always been - well above 1/2 way. But, the gauge also doesn't move when I rev it to around 2000 RPM (? may be normal not to move, after engine's already running?). When the knocking is happening, increasing RPMs also increases the knocking frequency.
Can't hear the knocking from top side of engine w/ hood open - even using rubber hose to my ear & moving it around. But (when) it knocks, can easily hear it inside the cab or under the truck.
From underneath, knocking is more in the center of truck, near the back of block / oil pan or tranny bell housing. I can't isolate the noise as more on one side of the block than the other.
Could the oil pump itself be making a knocking noise? The knocking is "similar to" a rod knocking, but doesn't seem quite as "hammer on metal" metallic.
There are no DTCs showing on my scanner. Only odd thing was, for "O2 Monitor Test," it showed "vehicle did not return data for any O2 monitor test." Though under the scanner "I/M Monitors," it shows O2 Sens Mon. "OK," and O2 Sens Htr "OK."
View 2 Replies
I have a 2001 ford ranger 2.5 and a standard 5 speed. Its been knocking for a while now and recently its made a much lower tone knock, I am thinking I may have thrown a bearing. Also I am wondering what other engines I can use, besides the 2.5.....
View 3 Replies
The last couple days my truck (1997 f150 4.6l) has been having starting issues. At first it would just turn over and not start then the battery would die. So i bought a new battery and yesterday now its starts sometimes but when trying to start it while its ttuning over it stops then starts turning and starts up. Then i drive wherever I am going when i get back in to start there's nothing.
Its not turning over at all but when i turn the key there is a loud single knocking noise coming from behind the dash near the passenger floor vent. Actually there ate two noise from the same area, one when i initially trun the key and another when i release the key. But after just sitting there doing this it will finally turn over and start. What this is, there are no codes being thrown besides my dreaded P0401 which i cant seem to get rid of either. Ive changed every part that has to do with the egr system and cleaned the throttle body replaced vacuum lines and still the code.
View 14 Replies
I have a late 99 7.3 that developed a knocking noise. I pulled the passenger's head and cylinder 5&7 have a spot where it looks like it came in contact with the valve. I'm not some master mechanic but am learning. What would be my next step to find why it hit the valve and to fix the problem?
View 14 Replies
2003 Ford Sport Trac with 4.0L SOHC engine
I started having this problem after I decided to do a tune up because of another minor unrelated problem (start up taking 2+ cranks sometimes and fine when gas is full... I'm going to replace the fuel pump for that but not until i resolve the more pressing issue)
Before the problem I had spark plugs and wires (all but #3) replaced by my dad and he also put in some Fuel Cleaner into the gas tank. He took it to a local mechanic and had the mechanic replace the #3 spark and wire and check the others and also replace the fuel filter.
After that my car was taken to jiffy lube where engine oil was changed... as well something else but I dont know what because no one is able to tell me.... my dad had one of his employees take it and the employee took it upon himself to get other things done but he doesn't know what.
And then when I got my car back after the weekend is when this issue started.
First I noticed a rattling (like a plastic is caught on a fan blade and it is hitting something as it goes round and round) right after engine is started. And on the roads, when I try to accelerate, it will accelerate- but very slowly as if my engine had no power.
When I floor my gas pedal, the car will continue to drive at a constant speed and I can start to hear a really fast rattling which I am not sure if it is the same thing making the rattling sound I hear at start up.
I've gotten the following codes : 300, 301, 303, 316
I have since then had my spark plugs rechecked, wires for #1, 2, 3 and 4 replaced with another brand. There was no long term change but I have noticed that every time messed with the wires (when spark plugs were changed, when wires were changed and when sparks were checked... etc) for about 3 drives right after it the car feels more powerful and smooth and then it will go back to driving like crap.
I have also changed the CKP sensor (advice of the Auto Zone) and there has been no change.
I have also replaced the coil pack this weekend and no change.
I have bought the more expensive wires but didn't change them since 2nd set for 1, 2, 3 and 4 has not made changes.
Currently: Only thing I have more noticed is that the car when first driven, feels okay at start up. I can accelerate from 0 to 30 with decent power and time and as long as i dont floor the gas and only lightly depress the gas the car will continue to accelerate with decent power and speed.
However, anytime the engine is strained (like going up a hill) I loose speed. and AFTER any time the engine is strained, i will no longer be able to accelerate with decent power and time.
The car at this point feels like it it trying, almost sounds and feels gritty if that makes any sense, and if i try to at least keep speed, the engine sounds change but no increase in speed. At this point I usually just try tapping lightly on the gas and it will eventually get upto 30mph and of course more effort to go beyond and continually increase the speed.
It takes me a good few minutes for me to go from 0 to 35 and another few minutes to get upto 45. (Now everyone drives around me after a complete stop because I cannot even get to 20 right away like most normal working cars.)
I really would hate to replace one part at a time to play guess and check but I also don't know any true mechanics in the area that can really drive, listen and look and determine what exactly is going on without playing guess and check with every little and big parts that are involved. I have seen some people replace the intake manifold, O2 sensors, CKP/CAM sensors, cylinders...
View 11 Replies
My 2000 7.3 2wd is making a knocking sound while accelerating. It speeds up as I accel and when I let off the gas it gets louder. It slows down all the way to a stop when the truck slows to a stop. I can feel it in the floor board a bit as well.
View 8 Replies
