Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - How Difficult To Replace Brake Fluid Reservoir Only
Mar 4, 2016
The 2003 Ex. Made it back home last week after a couple years at college. .. registration sticker expired last June! Drivers side mirror "taped" on. Rear bumper cover torn in half w/ a few screws holding it on.
Busted out foglight & small tear in bumper cover above it.
Brake light on - noticed fluid low & cap not seated correctly. One of the tabs that hold the cap in place is broken... new reservoir under $20 at rockauto. Looking for a write up or better to replace entire master cylinder?
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Early 70's Ford truck. The brake MC fluid is filled but not overfilled, and doesn't leak at all when the truck is parked. It can sit there for a month and never leak a drop, parked. But when I drive the truck, even just around the block, then park, and look inside the engine compartment immediately the brake MC is dripping brake fluid. It appears the leaking mode is by the fluid somehow jumping up and coming over the top edge of the MC when the truck is in motion or when the brakes are applied. All my diy'er years of replacing brake master cylinders on Ford Galaxies, VW Rabbits, Corollas, and this truck, I've never seen this kind of weird brake problem before. On this MC design it seems there's sort of a rubber baffle inside the lid of the MC, and that's present and accounted for.
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In my brake fluid reservoir I have a little blue filter that looks like an upside down bottle cap. the bottom of it has a fine screen so as you pour fluid in it filters. Is this a standard feature or did the previous owner add this? Where I can get a replacement as this one has a hole in it. I accidentally got it with a screw driver.
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I have never noticed before but today I noticed the fluid inside the brake reservoir was bubbling or splashing around , whichever.What would cause this. I did just finish up on an intake manifold gasket replacement job. Drove for the first time today and that's when i noticed the 'bubbles'.
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1968 C-850 Super Duty. Cannot find the brake fluid reservoir on this Hahn Firetruck.
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My brake fluid reservoir is real flimsy. I was checking fluids and noticed when I touched it, It felt like it was going to fall off.
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I have a new *to me* 2005 F250 and last night I noticed there is a leak around the brake fluid reservoir where it connects to the frame of the truck. Everything seems to be in good order not sure exactly whats causing the leak. It only when driving and for a short while after shutting the truck down, everything seems to be in good order but still it drips a lot.
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Just bought a 2007 supercab with the 5.4 in nice shape, but have an intermittent brake light on the dash. (No ABS, just the brake light.) Our mech. diagnosed a bad Brake Fluid Level switch. I can get a new sensor. I'd like to try and replace this myself and save a lot of money if it's not too difficult.
I'm looking for some clear step-by-step directions on doing this, and have a couple of questions:
Do I need to disconnect the battery first?
Do I need to empty the brake fluid reservoir? (Looks like the sensor is in the bottom of the reservoir, if I take it out without draining res, will I have a mess?)
When looking up the sensor online, I also saw the plug/connector for sale, should I replace that as well?
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I have a 1985 Chevy 2500. after sitting for about 3 or 4 months the rearmost brake fluid reservoir is empty. Does the rear reservoir supply fluid for the front or rear brakes?
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Just fired up my 2002 SC430 (115k miles) for the first time this year, so it's stood for over six months. Connected fresh battery, checked all fluid levels etc. Runs fine and purrs like a kitty BUT I'm getting a loud intermittent squeal (like you might get with a sticky pump or a slipping belt). Almost like a loud "meow" in duration & tone. So loud it can be heard from 20' away. Sometimes once per minute or two, sometime several times in a row then silence for a few minutes.
This is from the area where the Brake Fluid Reservoir is (on Right Hand Drive SC430 this is right by the Windscreen on the left hand side of the engine bay as you look at it from the front of the car (may be reversed on Left Hand drive models). Directly in front of the Steering Wheel.
(ABS) check light is on. Also "VSC" & "VSC off" check lights on (probably related to ABS being in check and VSC button does nothing to clear those lights). Also getting the buzzer alarm from the dash. Pumping the brake pedal and driving the car forward/back 10' several times on the driveway doesn't clear this.
Now, this may be that the Brake Pads have bound to the Discs (Rotors to you left-pondians). I may need to pop the wheels off and free up the Pads in that case.
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I purchased a 2008 Prius with 117,000 miles lat month. I took it to a friend's house recently. When he was looking at the car, he told me that my coolant level is low and put some coolant in the reservoir. The next day when I was driving the car I was hearing a rattling sound every time I pressed on brakes. I could not figure out what could be the reason. The sound went away after couple of days. Today I was going through the manual and noticed the place where my friend put coolant in is actually brake fluid reservoir. It looks a lot like coolant reservoir of my other car. So now I am wondering what could happen if coolant goes into brake fluid reservoir. Will it harm my brakes? It has been about 2 weeks since that incident happened.
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I've got an o2 camry with 150K that seems to be losing brake fluid from the "right" side of the reservoir. Which brake lines are supplied by the "right" half of the master cylinder reservoir? I have read that they could be diagonally piped.
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I'm getting ready to work on a 2000 Pontiac Sunfire for a co-worker. They told me that brake fluid leaks out where the fluid reservoir attaches to the master cylinder. Could that be a bad master cylinder or something with the brake booster? It looks like there is a lot of sludge in the reservoir.
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2009 Corolla LE 1.8, Auto Trans
I went in for an oil change. The following day my ABS and brake light came on. I looked under the hood and the brake fluid was totally empty! I called the place back and said "Don't you check fluids? It's bone dry".. well maybe bone dry is not totally true, it might have been lubricated in the reservoir still, but definitely empty. I put fluid in and the light is still on.
So, I went back. They say problem with my rear ABS speed sensor. After doing some Google work on my cell, I thought it was expensive so I'm going elsewhere.
I've got 100,500 miles so I'll probably get spark plugs also.
But anyway, they did that oil change and at the same told me my transmission fluid is dark. I'm just wondering if I should be worried about doing a transmission flush and fill.. I hear conflicting stories from all over the web.. one place says this, one says that, one says this type of oil is best, etc...
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put new master cylinder and bled brakes in 1978 jeep cj5 and now fluid is being forced out the rear brake reservoir in the master cylinder, if lid is off there is about a 1inch fountain of fluid that shoots up.
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2002 camry: my boyfriend just told me he accidentally added power steering fluid to the brake reservoir a couple monthes ago....while i floored it on highway, i only reached 40, when let off gas, car came to a quick stop. later i jacked up rear and was able to turn back tires to rule out e-brake being stuck,when car is in nuetral and pushed (forward or backward) it comes to a stop whithin a foot or so ( it seemed like the brakes were being depressed) possible transmission or brake issue?
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Across Internet is lot of examples of using pump, usually drill pump or vacuum. It seam to me that drill pump would work good for that job. Pump that attach to battery have limited amount of power and vacuum pump is manual. Look like a excellent device for transmission fluid change. Clearly no drain screw at pan. I do not think I'm fan of disconnecting return line and live empty tranny.
For example here : [URL] .....
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. 215K miles. Original Owner. When it is cold there is a very light leaking of brake fluid at the base of the master cylinder where it meets the brake booster. This morning it was 14 degrees and there was a much bigger leak. Filled it back up and went to work. I'm thinking its about time I took care of it. I've had the the master cylinder replaced once at Goodyear Auto Service Center years ago.
I'll post a picture later but having the leak where it is. Would that be a replacement of both the master cylinder and brake booster? How can you tell? Or is it better just to change out both. Having done more work on my car over years I feel I can do the work myself. Plus the master cylinder is only like $50 and $60 for the brake booster.
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Just checked out at 2003 V6 LE with 120k miles for $5500. Car seems to be in excellent mechanical condition but I did notice quite a significant power steering fluid leak, seems to be coming from the reservoir. I see that there are two hoses for about $80 each listed on Partsgeek.
Is this a common problem, can the clamps just be tightened, Could it be the reservoir it's self or even the pump too high a pressure?
Seems to be quite a lot of fluid running down the side of the car but after taking it for a test drive I didn't see any signs of it squirting out so perhaps it's a slow leak and been leaking for a while.
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I had a clutch, slave cylinder, and master cylinder replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Everything seemed to be working fine until I drove across the Rockies. The transmission was extremely difficult to shift, and the vehicle would actually roll forward when cranking the engine at fuel stops (temps were minus twenties). Once I got out of the mountains on both ends of the trip (where it was warmer), the clutch worked normally. The local Ford dealer found lots of air in the hydraulic clutch system, bled it, and it worked fine for several months.
The clutch is doing the same thing currently, but not all the time. Some days it's fine, other days it's difficult to shift although double clutching seems to work. It gets particularly hard to shift after a long drive (e.g., interstate driving for a couple of hours). I took it back in this morning to see if the dealer could figure out what is going on, they're saying it's likely a bad slave cylinder. I've heard the 1995 Explorer clutches are a bear to properly bleed, and can't work but think there may still be some air in the system.
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